Brick and stone veneer work occupies a confusing middle ground. A thin veneer applied over existing exterior walls often slides through as a cosmetic upgrade and doesn't require a permit. But the moment you modify structural support, tie the veneer into a new cavity system, or install full-thickness brick that carries load, you're into permit territory. The building code distinguishes sharply between these: thin veneer is regulated under IRC R703.2 as a cladding system; full-thickness brick may trigger foundation, structural, and egress code sections depending on where it sits on the building. Most building departments treat veneer applications as exterior work requiring plan review, but some jurisdictions exempt small, like-for-like replacements. The safe approach is a photo, dimensions, and a phone call to your building department before you order material. That call takes five minutes and saves you from a stop-work order.
When brick and stone veneer need permits
The permit threshold for brick and stone veneer hinges on two variables: the type of veneer system and whether you're modifying structural support. Thin veneer (sometimes called adhered veneer or cultured stone) is a facade layer, typically 1 to 2 inches thick, mechanically fastened or adhered to an existing wall with mortar or adhesive. Full-thickness brick, by contrast, is 3.5 inches or more and may carry structural load, sit on its own foundation, or create a cavity system with the wall behind it. IRC R703.2 governs adhered veneer; full-thickness brick systems fall under IRC R402 (foundations) and IRC R301 (structural design) depending on their role. Most jurisdictions require a permit for full-thickness brick work. Thin veneer is the gray zone: some cities exempt it if it's a cosmetic replacement on existing walls, others require a permit anytime material crosses property lines.
The distinction matters because the code treats the two systems differently. Thin veneer relies on the underlying wall for structural support and weather resistance. If the wall behind it is sound and the veneer is properly tied and flashed, the project may be classified as exterior cladding and eligible for a low-fee or exempt permit in some jurisdictions. Full-thickness brick, especially on an exterior corner, a foundation wall, or a gable end, may need to demonstrate that it's supported properly, that mortar joints meet the IRC's 3/8-inch bed-joint thickness and 10 psi compressive-strength requirements, and that the structure can handle the weight. In Wisconsin (typical for northern climates), full-thickness brick over a band board or rim joist needs verification that the foundation and support members are adequate—this requires structural review and a structural-engineer stamp in many cases.
Structural support modifications are a near-certain permit trigger. If you're adding a ledge, thickening a foundation, installing brick ties or cavity trusses, or reinforcing existing walls to carry the veneer, the project moves out of exemption territory. IRC R301.2 requires that any structural member be designed for the loads it will carry; brick veneer adds 38 to 45 pounds per square foot of weight. If your existing frame wall was never calculated to carry that load, you need a structural engineer's review. Similarly, if you're replacing a window or door opening with brick, or if you're veneer-ing across a control joint or building plane, the building department will want to see how you're maintaining weather resistance and structural continuity.
Like-for-like replacements are often exempt, but the bar is high. If you're removing deteriorated full-thickness brick on a 1950s house and replacing it in kind, using the same mortar type, the same brick coursing, and the same flashing, some jurisdictions will let you proceed without a permit—provided you don't touch the structural system. You'll need to document that the underlying wall remains intact and that you're not altering support, ties, or weather-resistance details. Even then, many cities require at least a field inspection to verify that the work is indeed like-for-like. Thin-veneer cosmetic replacements (e.g., cultured-stone facing on a porch that was already faced in cultured stone) are more commonly exempt, especially if the substrate is unchanged and the veneer is non-structural. Confirm this in writing with your building department before starting—an exemption letter takes a day and protects you far better than an assumption.
The inspector's red flags are predictable. Incomplete scope drawings—plans without detail on how veneer ties to the structure, where flashing goes, or how the system transitions at doors and windows—get rejected automatically. IRC R703.2 requires that adhered veneer include a means of tying to the substrate and a drainage plane or air gap to shed water. If your drawings don't show this, the department will bounce it back. Wrong permit classification is another one: filing a brick-work project under 'roofing' or 'siding' instead of 'exterior work' or 'structural modification' causes delays. And if your project involves a cavity system or changes to the structural frame, filing without a structural subpermit or engineer review is a guaranteed rejection.
Timeline and scope define cost. A thin-veneer cosmetic application on a small porch or an exterior pillar—say, under 100 square feet—might be exempt or cost $50 to $150 in plan-review fees. A full-thickness brick chimney repair or a foundation-wall veneer project on a 2,000-square-foot house typically runs $200 to $500 depending on valuation (most jurisdictions use 1.5 to 2 percent of project cost as a base). If structural design is involved, add $100 to $300 for a structural subpermit, sometimes more if your local engineer has a separate stamping fee. Plan review averages 1 to 2 weeks for straightforward veneer cladding; add another 1 to 2 weeks if structural review is required. Inspection timing depends on the scope: thin veneer usually gets a single final inspection (3 to 5 days turnaround); full-thickness brick on a foundation wall may need a footing inspection before backfill and a final inspection after all coursing is complete.
How brick and stone veneer permits vary by state
Northern and mid-Atlantic jurisdictions (Wisconsin, Minnesota, Pennsylvania, New York) tend to be stricter on brick-veneer permits because freeze-thaw cycles and snow load create higher stakes for water infiltration and structural capacity. Wisconsin and Minnesota treat full-thickness brick work as a structural matter; most require a permit and plan review with proof that the foundation and support frame can carry the extra weight. Thin veneer is often exempt if it's a cosmetic application on an existing wall that's not being altered, but you'll need to show flashing details and confirm that the substrate is sound. Many northern cities require an affidavit or engineer's certification that no structural modifications are being made. Southern jurisdictions (Florida, Georgia, Texas) are generally more relaxed on cosmetic veneer work but stringent on cavity systems and structural brick because of hurricane-wind loading and foundation requirements. Florida, for instance, exempts thin cladding applied directly to masonry block, but requires a full structural and wind-load review for any new full-thickness brick construction or for any veneer that alters the building envelope.
California and western states emphasize seismic design and energy code compliance. Adhered veneer in California must comply with the California Building Code (based on the 2022 IBC with amendments) and must show seismic ties or connectors that meet lateral-load requirements. A thin-veneer application that only covers cosmetic cracks may be exempt; one that spans across a control joint or involves reframing typically requires a permit and structural engineer review. Colorado and Utah are permissive on cosmetic thin-veneer work but require full permitting for any full-thickness brick, especially if it's on a foundation that sits in expansive soil (which is common in that region).
Northeast states (New Jersey, Connecticut, Massachusetts) follow the 2020 IBC and typically require permits for all brick-work projects except small (under 50-square-foot) like-for-like replacements on existing brick masonry. Many require a licensed architect or engineer to sign and stamp plans if the project involves more than 500 square feet or touches structural framing. The reason: older buildings in the Northeast often have marginal foundations and deteriorated mortar, so the code requires verification before new veneer is applied. Mid-Atlantic jurisdictions (Virginia, North Carolina) are more variable; some counties exempt cosmetic thin-veneer work outright, others require a permit form and inspection. Always confirm with the local building department by zip code—permit rules can differ between adjacent counties.
Common scenarios
Thin veneer applied over existing vinyl siding on a porch—no structural changes
Outcome depends on your jurisdiction and the substrate. If you're applying adhered veneer (cultured stone, thin brick, or other cladding) directly over vinyl, most building departments require a permit because you're adding a new exterior cladding layer and the code wants to verify that the substrate is sound, that flashing is installed correctly, and that the wall can shed water. The vinyl must be removed or the cladding mechanically fastened through the vinyl to the framing below—and once you're fastening to framing, you're triggering a structural review in many jurisdictions. Some permissive cities exempt this if it's under 100 square feet and you sign a statement that you're removing the vinyl and installing proper flashing. The safe path: apply for an exterior cladding permit, show a detail drawing of how you're fastening the veneer and where flashing goes, and get a rough-opening inspection before you close up the wall. Expect $75 to $200 in fees and 1 to 2 weeks for plan review.
Full-thickness brick chimney repair—replacing deteriorated brick and mortar, no structural changes to support or foundation
You need a permit. Even though this is a repair and not new construction, the code treats brick-masonry work as structural work that requires inspection. You'll file for a masonry repair permit (or 'chimney repair' if your department has a specific category) and provide a scope drawing showing the existing chimney dimensions, the area of brick and mortar being replaced, and confirmation that the flashing is intact and that no structural ties or support members are being altered. Many jurisdictions require that chimney brick be laid in Type N mortar (per IRC R402.1) with joints raked or struck flush, and that the mortar compressive strength meet 10 psi minimum. The building department may require a mason's affidavit confirming these standards or may send an inspector to observe the work. Permit cost typically runs $100 to $250; plan review takes 1 to 2 weeks. Inspection is usually before, during, and after mortar work (three separate inspections), with turnaround of 3 to 5 days per request. If the chimney has a structural crack (not just mortar deterioration), you'll need a structural engineer to assess whether the foundation below is sound and whether the chimney can remain as-is.
Installing full-thickness brick veneer on a foundation wall—new brick on concrete, no changes to footing or framing
Permit required. This is a structural addition: brick veneer on a foundation wall adds 38 to 45 pounds per square foot of new load. The code requires verification that the foundation and any support members (rim joist, band board) can carry that weight. You'll need to file for a structural modification permit and provide a structural engineer's design showing the foundation capacity, how the brick is tied to the concrete (typically with concrete anchors or a brick ledge), and how water is drained (usually a cavity or weep holes at the base). The structural engineer will need to verify the existing footing dimensions and confirm that the footing has adequate bearing capacity for the added weight—if the footing is shallow or in poor soil, you may need to add a brick ledge or improve the footing. This typically requires a footing or foundation inspection before the brick work begins. Permit cost ranges from $150 to $400 depending on the engineer's design fee (add $300 to $600 for engineering) and your local fee structure. Plan review takes 2 to 4 weeks because structural review is involved. Inspection happens at footing (before backfill) and final.
Replacing existing thin cultured-stone veneer on an exterior wall with the same product—10 years old, worn appearance
Outcome hinges on whether the substrate is damaged and on your jurisdiction's exemption rules. If the existing adhesive and substrate are sound—the wall behind is dry and structurally intact—and you're removing the old veneer and re-adhering new veneer in exactly the same pattern with the same flashing, some jurisdictions will exempt this as a cosmetic replacement. You'll need to get written exemption from the building department confirming that like-for-like veneer replacement doesn't require a permit. If the substrate shows water damage, rot, or structural issues, or if you're altering flashing or the wall system in any way, a permit is required. Even in permissive jurisdictions, a field inspection (sometimes over-the-counter) is common to verify that you're not introducing structural changes. If you need a permit, expect $50 to $150 in fees (usually a low-cost exterior cladding permit) and 1 week for review. Get the exemption in writing before starting; once the old veneer is off, you can't un-see structural damage and the inspector may require corrections.
Adding brick veneer to a new gable end wall on an existing house—new opening, structural ties required
Permit definitely required. Any new brick veneer that involves a structural modification—new framing, new ties, new flashing, or changes to the building envelope—triggers a full permit process. You'll file for exterior work or structural modification, provide architectural or structural plans showing the new brick coursing, the tie-back system (usually metal brick ties anchored to the framing per IRC R703.2), flashing details at the new opening, and confirmation that the gable-end framing can support the new load. If the gable is a high wind or seismic zone, the ties may need to be rated for lateral load per the local building code. Structural review is likely if the gable was not originally designed for veneer. Permit cost ranges from $150 to $400; add $300 to $600 if an engineer's design is required. Plan review takes 2 to 4 weeks. Inspections include verification of ties before wall closure and a final inspection of all flashing and coursing.
What you'll file and who can pull the permit
| Document | What it is | Where to get it |
|---|---|---|
| Permit application | Standard form requesting project description, address, scope of work, contractor name (if applicable), estimated cost, and signature. Most jurisdictions ask whether the work is residential or commercial and whether a licensed professional is involved. | Building department website or in-person at the permit office. Online permitting portals (e.g., Baltimore's ePermitting, Denver's pocketly) allow you to upload and track status; check your city's website. |
| Scope drawings or plans | Site plan showing the location of the veneer work on the building, and at least one elevation or section detail showing how the veneer is fastened to the substrate, how flashing is installed, and how water is drained. For thin veneer, a simple sketch with dimensions and tie/adhesive notes usually suffices. For full-thickness brick on structural walls, an engineer-stamped structural plan is often required. | You prepare these. For thin-veneer cosmetic work, a photo with dimensions and a written description of the substrate and fastening method may be acceptable. For structural work, hire a structural engineer or architect. |
| Structural engineer's design (if required) | Stamped drawings or letter from a licensed structural engineer confirming that the existing foundation and framing can support the new veneer load, and showing the tie-back system and flashing details. Required for full-thickness brick on foundations, for veneer on high-wind or seismic zones, or for any project that modifies structural support. | Licensed structural engineer or architect. Cost typically $300 to $1,000 depending on the complexity of the existing structure and the scope of review. |
| Contractor license or affidavit (if applicable) | Proof that the person doing the work is a licensed mason, or a homeowner-affidavit if you're doing the work yourself. Many jurisdictions allow homeowners to apply for permits on their own homes (even for brick work) but require a licensed contractor if it's a rental or commercial property. | Your contractor provides the license copy. Homeowner affidavit is usually a fill-in form available from the permit office. |
Who can pull: You (the homeowner) can pull a permit for work on your own primary residence in all 50 states, though some states and municipalities require a licensed mason for brick-masonry work. A few jurisdictions (notably some in California and New York) mandate that any brick or stone work above a certain square footage or complexity must be designed by a licensed architect or engineer and performed by a licensed contractor. Check with your building department on the licensing requirement for your specific project. If you're hiring a contractor, they typically file the permit application and manage the inspections, though you remain the permit holder and responsible party. For structural work or projects over 500 square feet, virtually all jurisdictions require a structural engineer's stamp and many require a licensed masonry contractor to perform the work.
Why brick and stone veneer permits get bounced
- Scope drawing missing flashing or tie details, or showing veneer directly adhered to vinyl siding without substrate removal
Redraw to show how flashing is installed at the base, sides, and any penetrations (doors, windows). Specify whether vinyl is removed or whether fasteners go through vinyl to framing. For adhered veneer, show the adhesive type and the adhesive-to-substrate bond. For mechanical fastening, show tie spacing (typically 16 inches on-center horizontally, 24 inches vertically per IRC R703.2). Resubmit with specific materials and details. - Full-thickness brick or structural veneer filed without structural engineer review or a statement that no structural modifications are being made
If the project truly involves no structural changes (e.g., only mortar repointing on existing chimney), provide a detailed scope statement confirming existing dimensions, existing support, and that no new loads are being imposed on the structure. If structural changes are involved (new brick on a foundation, changes to ties, new cavity system), hire a structural engineer to review the existing structure and sign off on the design. Submit the engineer's letter or stamped plan with reapplication. - Code references in the application or drawings cite the wrong code edition or wrong section (e.g., citing 2012 IRC when the jurisdiction uses 2018 or 2021)
Confirm your jurisdiction's adopted code edition (check the building department website or ask directly). Revise all code citations to match. If you're not sure which sections apply, cite broadly (e.g., 'IRC Chapter 7, Exterior Walls') and let the plan reviewer narrow it down. Resubmit with corrected citations or omit code references if you're unsure. - Permit application submitted as 'siding' or 'roofing' when the project is actually structural or involves foundation work
Resubmit using the correct permit category. Most departments have separate categories for 'exterior cladding/siding,' 'masonry,' 'structural modification,' or 'foundation work.' Ask the permit office which category matches your project. A full-thickness brick application on a foundation is a 'foundation' or 'structural' permit, not siding. - Drawings or application don't specify whether the veneer is adhered or mechanically fastened, or don't show the substrate
Clarify the veneer type (thin adhered veneer, thin mechanical veneer, full-thickness brick, etc.) and the substrate (vinyl, wood, concrete, existing masonry). Specify the adhesive product or fastener type. If replacing existing cladding, note the existing material and condition. Resubmit with these specifics. - Application incomplete: missing square footage, cost estimate, or contractor information
Fill in all required fields. Estimate square footage (multiply height by width for each wall face being veneered). Estimate project cost based on material and labor (roughly $8 to $15 per square foot for thin veneer, $12 to $20 for full-thickness brick, installed). If you're self-performing, write 'owner-builder' and provide your contact information. If hiring a contractor, include their name, license number, and contact info.
Permit costs for brick and stone veneer work
Brick and stone veneer permits are generally low-cost compared to structural projects, but the fee structure varies widely. Most jurisdictions calculate fees as a percentage of the estimated project cost (typically 1.5 to 2 percent for residential exterior work) with a minimum floor. A thin-veneer cosmetic project estimated at $3,000 to $5,000 might run $50 to $150 in permit fees; a full-thickness brick job estimated at $15,000 to $25,000 might run $225 to $500. Some jurisdictions have flat fees for cladding work ($75 to $150 regardless of scope), while others use the percentage method. Structural subpermits, if required, typically add $100 to $300. If a structural engineer is needed to design the work, add $300 to $1,000 for the engineer's design fee (separate from the permit fee). Plan review is usually bundled into the permit fee; there's rarely a separate plan-check charge. Inspections are generally included in the permit fee, with no per-inspection surcharge. Contact your building department for a fee schedule or a preliminary fee estimate before formally applying.
| Line item | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Thin-veneer cosmetic application (small, under 150 sq ft) | $50–$150 | Flat fee or low percentage fee; may be exempt in some jurisdictions if truly cosmetic and like-for-like |
| Thin-veneer application (medium, 150–500 sq ft) | $100–$300 | Typically 1.5–2% of project valuation; plan review included |
| Full-thickness brick or structural veneer | $150–$500 | Depends on scope and structural review requirement; may be higher if structural engineer design is needed |
| Structural engineer design (if required) | $300–$1,000 | Separate from permit fee; engineer stamps design and may observe work |
| Structural subpermit (if needed) | $100–$300 | Additional to main permit if foundation or structural modifications are involved |
| Masonry chimney repair or repointing (small, under 100 sq ft) | $100–$250 | Typically classified as a repair permit; inspections usually included |
Common questions
Do I need a permit to replace existing brick on my house with the same brick?
Probably, but it depends on your jurisdiction and the scope. If you're only replacing mortar (repointing) on existing full-thickness brick, most jurisdictions require a permit because the code wants to verify that the mortar type is correct (typically Type N per IRC R402.1) and that the work is done properly. If you're replacing deteriorated brick with the same brick in the same pattern using the same mortar, some jurisdictions will issue a low-cost repair permit ($75–$150); others require a full masonry permit with inspections. Thin-veneer replacement (cultured stone or thin brick over existing cladding) is more often exempt if the substrate is unchanged. Call your building department with photos and dimensions—exemptions are worth a five-minute confirmation.
Do I need to hire a licensed mason, or can I do brick veneer work myself?
Rules vary by state and jurisdiction. Some states allow homeowners to perform masonry work on their own primary residence without a license; others require a licensed mason for any brick or stone work. A few jurisdictions (parts of California, New York, and Massachusetts) require that any masonry work above a certain square footage (e.g., 500 square feet) must be designed by an architect or engineer and performed by a licensed contractor. Check your state's licensing board website and your local building department before starting. If you're hiring someone, confirm they hold a current masonry license and that your building department has no restriction on homeowner-performed work. For structural projects or anything involving foundation modifications, expect the department to require a licensed professional.
What's the difference between thin veneer and full-thickness brick, and why does it matter for permits?
Thin veneer (adhered or mechanical) is typically 1 to 2 inches thick and applied over an existing wall for appearance; it relies on the underlying wall for structural support. Full-thickness brick is 3.5 inches or more and may carry structural load or sit on its own foundation. The code treats them differently: thin veneer is regulated under IRC R703.2 as a cladding system; full-thickness brick falls under IRC R402 (foundations) and R301 (structural design). Thin veneer is often exempt if it's a cosmetic replacement on a sound substrate. Full-thickness brick almost always requires a permit because the code needs to verify that the structure below can handle the weight (brick is 38–45 pounds per square foot). If you're unsure which you're installing, check with the product manufacturer or your building department.
Do I need a structural engineer for brick veneer work?
You need a structural engineer if your project involves any of the following: full-thickness brick on a foundation wall or new addition, veneer on a high-wind or seismic zone, structural modifications to support the veneer (new ledge, reinforced framing, foundation changes), or if the project exceeds 500 square feet and involves new load on existing framing. A structural engineer will verify that the foundation and framing have adequate capacity for the brick weight and design the tie-back system. The engineer's stamp (on the design drawings or a letter) is usually required before the building department will issue the permit. For simple thin-veneer cosmetic applications on existing walls with sound substrate, a structural engineer is usually not needed. Ask your building department: they'll tell you if the project requires structural review.
How long does it take to get a brick veneer permit?
Plan review typically takes 1 to 2 weeks for straightforward thin-veneer or cosmetic brick work. Full-thickness brick projects and anything requiring structural review can take 2 to 4 weeks or longer if the engineer's design needs revision. Once the permit is issued, inspections are usually quick: thin veneer gets a single final inspection (3–5 days turnaround); full-thickness brick on a foundation may require a footing inspection before backfill and a final inspection after coursing, with 3–5 days between inspections. Some jurisdictions offer expedited review for simple projects (same-day approval for over-the-counter permits), but this is less common for brick work. Ask your building department for an estimated timeline when you submit the application; they can tell you if your project qualifies for expedited review.
What if I start brick veneer work without a permit?
The building department can issue a stop-work order and require you to cease all work immediately. You'll then have to apply for a retroactive permit, which typically costs significantly more than a standard permit and may require extensive inspections to verify that the work meets code. In some jurisdictions, unpermitted work can trigger fines ($500–$1,000 or more), and you may be required to remove the work entirely if it's found to be non-compliant. If you're selling the house, a title search or home inspection may uncover unpermitted brick work, which can delay or kill the sale. Your homeowner's insurance may also deny claims related to unpermitted work. The five minutes it takes to call the building department and confirm whether you need a permit is always worth it.
Do I need separate electrical or plumbing permits for brick veneer work?
Only if the veneer work involves changes to electrical (e.g., relocating outlets or service lines that are now hidden by veneer) or plumbing (rare, but if you're rerouting drain or water lines through the veneer area). Brick veneer itself doesn't require electrical or plumbing subpermits; the veneer is non-functional cladding. If your project is purely cladding (no service relocation), one exterior/masonry permit covers it. If you're altering service lines, file for the relevant subpermit (electrical or plumbing) in addition to the main veneer permit.
What happens if the building inspector finds that my brick veneer doesn't meet code?
The inspector will issue a Notice of Violation or a correction order, specifying what doesn't meet code and what needs to be fixed. Common issues: improper flashing, inadequate drainage, ties spaced too far apart, mortar joints thicker than 3/8 inch, or veneer applied directly to vinyl without substrate removal. You'll have a specified timeframe (usually 10–30 days) to make corrections and request a re-inspection. If the issue is minor (e.g., spacing of ties), the fix is straightforward and the re-inspection is quick. If the issue is structural (e.g., inadequate support for the weight), you may need to hire an engineer to design a correction or reinforce the support before the inspector will approve. Don't assume you can paint over the problem or hide it—inspectors know what to look for.
Can I install brick veneer over existing vinyl siding?
You can, but you'll almost certainly need a permit and the building department will require that you either remove the vinyl or mechanically fasten the veneer through the vinyl to the framing behind. Adhering veneer directly to vinyl is not code-compliant because vinyl is not a suitable substrate for adhesive-bonded cladding (it flexes and can cause the veneer to crack or delaminate). If you mechanically fasten the veneer (with ties or fasteners every 16 inches horizontally and 24 inches vertically), the fasteners go through the vinyl into the framing. Proper flashing and drainage are still required. Most inspectors prefer that you remove the vinyl for a cleaner substrate and better moisture management. The permit will specify the substrate requirements.
How do I know if my foundation can support the weight of brick veneer?
You don't—not without a structural engineer's review. Brick veneer adds 38 to 45 pounds per square foot, which is significant. A foundation designed for a wood frame wall alone may not have adequate bearing capacity once you add brick. A structural engineer will examine the existing foundation drawings (if available), verify the footing size and depth, assess the soil conditions, and calculate whether the footing's bearing capacity is sufficient for the new load. If not, they may recommend a brick ledge (a concrete shelf built into the foundation to carry the brick weight) or footing reinforcement. This is why structural review is nearly always required for full-thickness brick on foundations. Don't assume the foundation can handle it—get it verified in writing before you start.
Next step: Confirm with your building department
Brick and stone veneer rules vary significantly by jurisdiction. Before you spend money on material or hire a contractor, take five minutes to call your local building department or check their website. Have a photo of your project and rough dimensions handy. Ask: (1) Does my project need a permit? (2) If yes, what category (exterior cladding, masonry, structural)? (3) What documents do I need to submit? (4) Do I need a structural engineer or licensed contractor? (5) What's the estimated fee and timeline? Write down the answers and the name of the person you spoke with. If they say it's exempt, ask for written confirmation. If they say it needs a permit, ask for the application form and a fee estimate. Most departments will give you a preliminary fee quote over the phone. Starting with this conversation saves you time and headaches when you submit the formal application.
Related permit guides
Other guides in the Roofing & exterior category: