Research by DoINeedAPermit Research Team · Updated May 2026
The Short Answer
Yes. Any attached deck in Holladay requires a permit, regardless of size. The city enforces strict ledger flashing and frost-depth requirements tied to the Wasatch Front's 48-inch frost line and seismic zone.
Holladay enforces permit requirements on ALL attached decks, even small ones under 200 square feet — this is stricter than some neighboring Salt Lake County municipalities that exempt ground-level structures under 200 sq ft and 30 inches high. The city's building code adoption includes Utah amendments that reference the 48-inch frost depth and Wasatch Fault seismic design category D2, meaning your post footings must extend below 48 inches and your ledger flashing must comply with IRC R507.9 with additional tie-down inspection. Holladay's online permit portal requires plan submission (not over-the-counter issuance) for deck work; plan review typically runs 2–3 weeks. The city also enforces Salt Lake County's hillside overlay rules if your property falls above 5,200 feet elevation, which triggers grading and drainage review. Holladay has no formal homeowners association blanket exemptions — HOA approval is your responsibility, separate from the city permit.

What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)

Holladay attached deck permits — the key details

Holladay's permit trigger is unambiguous: the city Building Department requires a permit for any deck attached to your house, regardless of size or height. This differs from the baseline IRC R105.2 exemption (which allows freestanding decks under 200 sq ft and 30 inches high without a permit); Holladay has amended its local code to require attachment permits because attached decks create ledger flashing risks that the city wants inspected at footing, framing, and final stages. The ledger board is the single point of failure — improper flashing leads to water intrusion into rim joists, which causes rot that can compromise your entire house envelope within 3–5 years. Holladay's building code references IRC R507.9 ledger flashing rules explicitly and requires photographic proof of a minimum 1/2-inch gap between deck boards and house rim, with flashing extending 6 inches up the wall and 4 inches down the rim. The city also mandates that your ledger be bolted to the rim joist with 1/2-inch bolts at 16 inches on center — not nailed. Frost depth in Holladay ranges from 30 inches in the valley to 48 inches in the foothills (elevation matters); the city's permit application requires you to specify your property elevation, and the review plan must show footings below the applicable frost line. If your deck sits over a crawlspace or basement, the city also requires a clear diagram showing how deck water drains away and how the ledger connection accommodates any future rim repairs.

The Wasatch Fault seismic zone (USGS Zone D2, highest risk in Utah) adds a structural requirement that catches many homeowners off guard: your deck's lateral connection to the house must include post-to-beam connectors (Simpson DTT or equivalent) and ledger bolts that resist side-to-side movement. Standard 16-inch bolt spacing is adequate, but the bolts must be installed vertically (not angled), and the holes in the rim joist must be drilled through solid wood, not into a void or insulation. Holladay's building inspector will specifically check that your ledger bolts do not pass through any window headers or electrical knockout holes — a common code violation. Additionally, if your deck is elevated more than 4 feet above grade, the city requires diagonal bracing under the deck frame (typically 2x6 or 2x8 braces at 45 degrees running from the outer beam to a concrete footing) to resist seismic racking. This is not a minor detail — the city's plan reviewer will mark up any deck framing plan that lacks this bracing with a 'revisions required' stamp.

Frost depth is Holladay's biggest surprise for newcomers from milder climates. The city's Building Official follows the International Building Code (IBC) Table R403.3 frost depth map, which lists 48 inches for the Wasatch Front proper and 30 inches for lower-elevation areas (below 5,200 feet). Your permit application will ask for your property's elevation; if you claim 4,800 feet, you'll be assigned the 30-inch requirement; if you claim 5,400 feet, you'll get 48 inches. Corners cut here are a common post-inspection problem: inspectors dig down and measure, and if your footings are only 36 inches deep when the plan calls for 48, the city will red-tag the deck, require you to dig out the posts, pour deeper holes, and reset the deck. This adds 2–3 weeks and $1,500–$3,000 to your project. The city's permit portal includes a frost-depth lookup tool (integrated with USGS data) so you can pre-check before submitting plans. Posts must sit on concrete footings, not dug holes with dirt backfill — the frost line rule applies to the bottom of the concrete pad, not the top of the post. Also, Holladay's Building Code enforces IRC R507.8, which requires that any footing in clay soils (the Holladay area sits on Lake Bonneville sediments, which are largely clay) must account for expansive soils. Some inspectors require a soil report if the deck is larger than 16x12 feet; smaller decks are typically assumed compliant. Ask your plan reviewer upfront: a $300 soils engineer's letter can save you a failed footing inspection down the line.

Guardrail height in Holladay is 36 inches minimum, measured from deck surface to the top of the guard rail, per IRC R312.2. Many homeowners install 32-inch tall railings thinking that's close enough; Holladay's final inspector will measure and fail you. The horizontal balusters (vertical pickets running between the guardrail and deck framing) must not permit a 4-inch sphere to pass through, per the sphere-test rule (IRC R312.1) — this is to prevent a child's head from getting stuck. Solid railings and mesh panels pass; large-gap Victorian-style balusters fail. If your deck is less than 30 inches above grade, you may be exempt from the guardrail requirement, but Holladay's plan reviewer will still note it in your permit conditions; if you later add steps or an upper level, you'll need a plan revision. Stairs leading down from the deck must have a 4-inch sphere barrier at the bottom landing (IRC R311.7) and handrails on at least one side (two sides if the stair is wider than 44 inches). The tread depth must be 10–11 inches and the riser height 7–8 inches; variance from these numbers will trigger a revision request.

Timeline and next steps: submit your deck plan to Holladay's Building Department via their online portal (the city moved to digital-only submittals in 2022). You'll need a site plan (showing lot lines, setbacks, utilities, deck location), a deck framing plan (showing post locations, footing depths, beam sizes, ledger details, and guardrail height), and an elevation drawing (showing the deck height above grade and grade slopes). Expect plan review to take 2–3 weeks; if the reviewer finds issues (frost depth, ledger flashing, seismic bracing, or railing height), they'll email you a 'revisions required' notice. You'll then revise the plans and resubmit; second reviews typically turnaround in 5–7 business days. Once approved, your permit is valid for 6 months; you can begin construction. Inspections happen at three stages: footing pre-pour (inspector checks hole depth and dimensions), framing (inspector verifies ledger flashing, bolts, bracing, and post connections), and final (guardrails, stair dimensions, overall compliance). Each inspection requires 2–3 business days' notice via the online portal. The city charges a $175 base permit fee plus 1.5% of valuation; a typical 12x14 deck (168 sq ft) valued at $8,000–$12,000 will cost $250–$350 in permit fees alone, not including plan review if you hire an engineer. Budget 6–8 weeks from permit application to final approval and construction completion.

Three Holladay deck (attached to house) scenarios

Scenario A
12x14 attached deck, rear yard, elevation 5,050 ft, 30-inch frost line, no stairs, no electrical — Holladay valley property
Your 168-square-foot deck attaches to the south side of your 1970s rambler in the lower Holladay area (elevation 5,050 feet, so frost line is 30 inches per city code). You're building a simple pressure-treated wood deck with 4x4 posts, 2x8 rim and ledger, 2x6 joists, and 5/4 deck boards. Because it's attached, Holladay requires a full permit and plan review. Your plans must show: (1) site plan with setback measurements to property lines (Holladay requires 5-foot rear setback minimum — verify yours is clear), (2) footing detail showing posts bottoming out at 30 inches below finished grade and sitting on 12-inch concrete pads, (3) ledger detail showing 1/2-inch bolts at 16 inches on center into the rim joist with flashing extending 6 inches up and 4 inches down, (4) 36-inch guardrail height around the deck perimeter (you'll use 2x6 railings with 2x4 horizontal pickets spaced 3.5 inches apart to pass the 4-inch sphere test), and (5) a note that diagonal seismic bracing is not required because your deck is under 4 feet high. Submit the plans via Holladay's online portal; expect 2–3 weeks for review. Once approved, schedule the footing inspection before you pour concrete — the inspector will measure the holes (at least 12 inches diameter, 30 inches deep) and approve the concrete pad size. Pour concrete, let it cure 7 days, then schedule framing inspection. The inspector will verify ledger bolts, flashing, post-to-beam connections (you'll need at least hurricane ties or Simpson connectors because of seismic zone D2), and joist hanger nails. Finally, schedule final inspection to verify guardrail height, stair absence, deck surface slope, and grade drainage. Timeline: 2–3 weeks plan review + 4–6 weeks construction + 1 week for final approval = 7–10 weeks total. Cost: $175 base + $135 valuation fee (1.5% of ~$9,000) = $310 permit, plus $150–$300 for a simple framing plan prepared by a contractor or online service.
Permit required (attached) | 30-inch frost depth | 5-foot rear setback check | Ledger bolts required | Seismic ties (D2 zone) | Guardrail 36 inches | No stairs, no electrical | Permit fee $310 | Plan cost $150–$300 | Total project $6,500–$12,000
Scenario B
16x16 elevated deck, 5 feet high, hillside lot at 5,350 ft elevation, stairs, drainage grading required — Holladay foothills property with overlay
Your larger 256-square-foot deck sits on a steep foothills lot in Holladay's hillside overlay zone (elevation 5,350 feet; frost line 48 inches). The deck hangs off the east side of your 1980s A-frame and sits 5 feet above finished grade. Because of the height and foothill elevation, Holladay requires not just a deck permit but also a grading and drainage plan review, which adds complexity. Your plans must show: (1) a 1-inch-equals-8-feet or 1:100 site plan with existing and proposed grade contours (a surveyor may be needed), (2) footing details showing 48-inch depth (the frost-line surprise here), (3) diagonal seismic bracing under the deck frame running from the outer beam down to corner footings at 45 degrees (required because deck is over 4 feet high in seismic zone D2), (4) ledger flashing identical to Scenario A but with additional inspection for any rim moisture due to upslope water flow, (5) external staircase with minimum 36-inch width, 10-inch treads, 8-inch risers, and a 4-inch sphere barrier at the landing, (6) guardrails 36 inches high on all sides including stairs, and (7) a drainage note showing that deck water and stair runoff slopes away from the house foundation (critical on hillside lots where water pooling kills foundations). The city will also require you to verify that the deck does not encroach on any utility easements (Holladay has natural-gas and power easements on many foothills properties). Submit plans via the portal; plan review will take 3–4 weeks because the hillside overlay requires a separate grading sign-off from the City Engineer's office. Once approved, inspections follow the same footing/framing/final sequence, but the footing inspection will specifically check that holes reach 48 inches and that concrete pads are level (crucial on slopes). Framing inspection includes verification of diagonal bracing (the inspector will measure the angle and bolt sizes). Stair inspection checks riser height, tread depth, and landing sphere barrier. Timeline: 3–4 weeks plan review (hillside overlay adds a week) + 6–8 weeks construction (stairs and bracing add time) + 1 week final = 10–13 weeks. Cost: $175 base + $270 valuation fee (1.5% of ~$18,000) = $445 permit, plus $400–$600 for a stamped plan from a contractor or engineer because grading overlay requires more detail. Surveyor for site plan: $300–$600. Total: $1,200–$1,600 in permit and plan costs alone.
Permit required (attached, elevated) | 48-inch frost depth | Hillside overlay zone | Grading and drainage review | External stairs required | Diagonal seismic bracing (5 ft high) | Utility easement check | Permit fee $445 | Plan cost $400–$600 | Surveyor $300–$600 | Total project $12,000–$25,000
Scenario C
10x12 ground-level deck, no stairs, 18 inches above grade, in-ground post footings attempted without permit — unpermitted deck scenario
You decided to build a small 120-square-foot deck on your Holladay property without a permit, thinking it was under the 200-square-foot exemption threshold and only 18 inches high. You dug post holes 24 inches deep (you assumed 'frost line' was a suggestion), set posts on gravel, backfilled with dirt, and built the deck attached to your rim joist with nails and caulk instead of bolts and flashing. One year later, you sell your house. The buyer's lender orders a title inspection and structural review; the inspector spots the unpermitted deck on the back exterior wall, photos it, and flags it in the appraisal report as 'non-permitted accessory structure.' The title company requires a written explanation or removal before closing. You call Holladay's Building Department and ask if you can 'grandfather' the deck or do a retroactive inspection. The answer is no: the city enforces permits for ALL attached decks regardless of size. You now have three options: (1) remove the deck entirely (cost: $2,000–$4,000 labor + disposal), (2) obtain a retroactive permit by submitting plans, paying double permit fees ($890 instead of $445), and scheduling all three inspections while the deck is in place (risky because the existing footings and ledger will almost certainly fail inspection, requiring expensive repairs), or (3) try to sell with the unpermitted deck disclosure on the Real Estate Transfer Disclosure Statement, which will drop your selling price by 5–15% (on a $500,000 home, that's $25,000–$75,000). The buyer's lender will also likely decline to finance the purchase until the permit issue is resolved. If you had pulled the permit upfront, the cost would have been $250–$350 in fees, 6–8 weeks of timeline, and the certainty that your deck is structurally sound and marketable. Instead, you're now spending $5,000–$10,000 in legal/engineering/contractor fees to fix or remove the deck, plus a six-figure hit to your home value. Holladay's Building Official will also note in the permit history that you built without a permit; this creates a record that future inspectors will see, and insurance companies will flag it as a prior code violation.
NO permit pulled initially (mistake) | Attached deck requires permit in Holladay (all sizes) | Unpermitted deck discovered at sale | Retroactive permit fee doubled to $890 | Likely footing/ledger failure on inspection | Removal cost $2,000–$4,000 | Resale price hit 5–15% | Lender financing decline risk | Timeline delay 3–4 months | Total cost of non-compliance $30,000–$90,000+

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Frost depth and post footing in Holladay's Wasatch Front climate

Holladay straddles two frost zones: the lower valley (elevation below 5,200 feet) has a 30-inch frost line, and the foothills and higher areas have 48 inches. This matters because frost heave — the expansion of soil as groundwater freezes during winter — lifts unfrooted posts, eventually cracking ledger bolts and twisting the entire deck frame. Holladay's winter temperatures routinely drop to -15°F, and snowmelt in March/April saturates soils; if your post footing sits above the frost line, the post will heave upward 1–3 inches over three to five winters, creating diagonal cracks in your ledger flashing, separating the deck from the house by 1/4 inch, and allowing water intrusion that rots the rim joist. The city's 30-inch and 48-inch requirements are non-negotiable — the Building Official's office publishes a frost-depth lookup tool on the Holladay website, and they map frost zones by elevation. You can look up your property's frost line before submitting plans. If you build in the foothills and guessed 30 inches when it should be 48, the footing inspection will fail, and you'll be required to excavate, pour new deeper footings, and reset the posts — a $1,500–$3,000 do-over.

Expansive clay soils complicate the picture further. The Holladay area sits on Lake Bonneville sediments — ancient lake clay that swells when wet and shrinks when dry. Standard concrete footings can crack or shift if the clay underneath is not properly compacted or if annual freeze-thaw cycles rehydrate the soil. The city's permit application includes a soil-type question; if your property is in the clay zone (most of lower Holladay is), you may be asked to provide a geotechnical report if your deck is larger than 16 feet wide. Smaller decks are assumed safe. A soil engineer's letter costs $300–$500 and takes 1–2 weeks; include this in your timeline if the plan reviewer flags it. The engineer will test the soil's bearing capacity and recommend footing size (typically 12x12 pads for standard decks, but clay soils may require 16x16 pads or deeper embedment). Plan reviewers rarely demand this for a 12x14 deck, but they will for anything 16x16 or larger on a foothills lot.

Winter construction adds another frost-depth consideration. If you pour deck footings after October (when soils are cooling and frost is beginning to penetrate), you're pouring into partially frozen ground, which can trap air pockets and create voids under the concrete pad. Holladay's Building Official typically allows year-round footing pours, but if your ground is frozen solid, you'll need to thaw it first (heat-tape wrapped around excavation, or waiting for warm weather). Plan your deck construction for late spring to early fall to avoid frost-line complications. If you must build in winter, notify the footing inspector upfront that the ground was frozen, and request a soil-compaction test after the pad has cured.

Post diameter and concrete pad size scale with frost depth and soil type. In the 30-inch frost zone with standard soils, a 4x4 post on a 12x12 concrete pad 30 inches deep is minimum. In the 48-inch zone or on clay, upgrade to 4x6 posts and 14x14 pads, or 4x4 posts on 16x16 pads. These seem like minor upgrades, but they prevent post settling and lateral movement as soils freeze and thaw. The city's plan reviewer will check your footing details against frost depth and soil type; if your footings are undersized for your frost zone, you'll get a revision request. Use the IBC Table R403.3 frost-depth map and the IRC R507 post sizing tables as your guides; reference them in your permit plans.

Ledger flashing, water intrusion, and the Wasatch Fault seismic tie-down in Holladay

The ledger board is the single point of failure on any attached deck, and Holladay's Building Code enforces IRC R507.9 with strict photographic verification at framing inspection. The ledger is the 2x8 or 2x10 board that connects your deck frame to the house's rim joist; water that gets behind the ledger (from deck splash-back, roof runoff diverted downhill, or poor flashing installation) seeps into the rim joist, rots it from the inside out, and eventually compromises the house's structural integrity and the deck's lateral connection. Holladay's winters include wet-snow periods and spring melt that create ideal conditions for this rot; in the foothills, rain-on-snow events add additional moisture pressure. The city requires that your ledger flashing be installed before joists are attached: a minimum 1/2-inch gap between the house sheathing and the top of the flashing, with the flashing extending at least 6 inches up the wall and 4 inches down behind the rim joist, and sealed at the top with caulk or tape. The flashing must be metal (aluminum or galvanized steel) or a compatible membrane; plastic flashing is not acceptable. Holladay's Building Official requires you to submit a detail drawing showing the flashing installation and will visually inspect it during framing review.

Ledger bolts are equally critical. The ledger must be bolted — not nailed — to the rim joist using 1/2-inch bolts spaced 16 inches on center. Each bolt must pass through the rim joist into a solid wood plate or rim member, not through a void, electrical hole, or window header. Bolts must be installed vertically, with a flat washer and lock washer on the nut side. Diagonal bolts or bolts at angles reduce lateral strength and will be flagged by the inspector. The purpose of the bolt spacing and diameter is to distribute the lateral loads generated by the deck (weight, wind, and seismic forces) evenly across the rim joist. In Holladay's seismic zone D2 (Wasatch Fault), this lateral connection is critical; an earthquake or large snow load on the deck frame can create racking forces that try to shear the ledger away from the house. If your bolts are spaced 24 inches apart or are only 3/8 inch in diameter, the rim joist will flex excessively, the bolts will bend, and the ledger may separate from the house frame. Holladay's inspector will measure bolt spacing and diameter; if you're off by more than 2 inches, you'll get a revision request.

The Wasatch Fault seismic zone D2 classification adds a secondary tie-down requirement for decks over 4 feet high or with large cantilevers: post-to-beam connections must include lateral load devices such as Simpson DTT connectors, hurricane ties, or holdowns rated for seismic forces. Standard joist hangers (which resist vertical shear) do not resist lateral movement. A 4x4 post supporting a 2x10 beam must have a DTT connector bolted to the top of the post and nailed to the underside of the beam, with 8 common nails minimum. This connector prevents the beam from sliding sideways on the post during seismic racking. Holladay's plan reviewer will specify this on the permit conditions, and the framing inspector will verify that connectors are installed and bolts are tight. Skipping this detail or using standard connectors is a common rejection; contractors unfamiliar with seismic design often overlook it. Budget an extra $50–$100 per post for seismic connectors (Simpson DTT costs ~$20–$40 per connector, plus labor) and ensure your contractor is aware of the Holladay seismic requirement.

For decks over 4 feet high, diagonal seismic bracing is also required. This is a 2x6 or 2x8 board running at approximately 45 degrees from the outer beam (the rim joist running perpendicular to the house) down to a corner post footings. The diagonal brace prevents the deck frame from racking sideways when the house shifts during seismic activity. Bolts connect the diagonal to the beam and post; the post footing must be separate from (and deeper than) the main deck posts to anchor the diagonal. This adds $500–$1,000 to the deck cost but is non-negotiable in Holladay's zone D2. The plan must show the diagonal at the correct angle and bolt size; the inspector will verify with a speed square and wrench.

City of Holladay Building Department
Holladay City Hall, 4580 South 2300 East, Holladay, UT 84117
Phone: (801) 272-7500 | https://www.ci.holladay.ut.us (check 'Building & Planning' for online permit portal)
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM–5:00 PM

Common questions

Is a ground-level deck under 200 sq ft exempt from the permit requirement in Holladay?

No. Holladay requires a permit for any attached deck, regardless of size or height. The IRC R105.2 exemption for freestanding decks under 200 sq ft and 30 inches high does not apply to attached decks in Holladay's jurisdiction. If your deck connects to your house, you need a permit. Freestanding decks (not attached) may be exempt if they meet the IRC thresholds, but you must verify with the Building Department before starting construction.

What is the frost line depth in my specific neighborhood in Holladay?

Holladay's frost line is 30 inches for areas below 5,200 feet elevation and 48 inches for areas at or above 5,200 feet. The city's Building Department website includes a frost-depth lookup tool where you can enter your address and elevation; use this to verify your frost line before submitting plans. If you're on a hillside, contact the city to confirm your elevation if you're unsure.

Can I use pressure-treated lumber for all deck components, or do I need to upgrade to cedar or composite?

Pressure-treated lumber (PT grade C or UC4B) is acceptable for all structural components (posts, beams, joists, rim joists) and is code-compliant in Holladay. Cedar and composite are aesthetic upgrades but not required. The ledger must be pressure-treated if it contacts the house; do not use untreated or cedar ledgers because they will rot rapidly behind the flashing. Deck boards can be PT, cedar, or composite based on your budget and maintenance preference; the code does not discriminate.

How much does a deck permit cost in Holladay, and are there additional fees for plan review?

The base permit fee is $175. Valuation-based fees (1.5% of project valuation) are added; a 12x14 deck valued at $9,000–$12,000 will cost an additional $135–$180 in valuation fees, for a total permit cost of $310–$355. If the city's plan reviewer finds code violations and requires revisions, you may be charged a resubmittal fee of $50–$100 per revision cycle. Plan preparation by a contractor or engineer (not a city fee, but your cost) typically runs $150–$600 depending on complexity.

Do I need a soil engineer's report for my deck, or is it only for larger structures?

A soil report is not required for decks under 16 feet wide in standard Holladay soil conditions. If your deck is larger than 16x16 feet or if it sits on known expansive clay (most of lower Holladay is clay), the plan reviewer may request a soil engineer's letter. This costs $300–$500 and takes 1–2 weeks to obtain. For smaller decks, the city assumes standard soil capacity; a soil report is not necessary upfront, but have one available if the inspector flags soil-related concerns.

Are there any setback or HOA restrictions I need to check before building a deck in Holladay?

Yes. Holladay requires a minimum 5-foot setback from rear property lines and 10-foot setback from side property lines for structures; your deck must comply. Check your property deed and plat for utility easements (natural gas, power, water lines often run along property lines). If your home is in an HOA community, HOA approval is separate from the city permit — contact your HOA's architectural review board before submitting plans to the city. The city's permit is independent of HOA approval, but lenders and title companies will flag missing HOA approval as a closing condition.

What inspection schedule should I expect after my permit is approved?

Three inspections are required: (1) footing pre-pour — schedule 2–3 business days before pouring concrete; the inspector verifies hole depth, diameter, and grade elevation; (2) framing — after posts are set and beam/ledger are in place; the inspector verifies ledger flashing, bolts, bracing, and post connections; (3) final — after the deck is complete; the inspector verifies guardrail height, stair dimensions, deck surface slope, and overall compliance. Each inspection request is submitted via the online portal and typically completed within 2–3 business days. Budget 4–6 weeks for the full construction and inspection sequence.

Do I need to pull a separate electrical or plumbing permit if my deck includes lighting or a water line?

Yes. If you add recessed lighting, string lights with hard-wired connections, or a 120V outlet to your deck, you need an electrical permit from the Building Department's electrical inspector. If you add a hose bib or water line, you need a plumbing permit. These are separate permits beyond the structural deck permit and must be pulled before the electrical/plumbing work begins. A simple outdoor outlet typically costs $50–$150 in electrical permit fees; a hose bib costs $75–$200 in plumbing permit fees.

What happens if my deck fails a framing inspection — can I just fix it without pulling a new permit?

If the inspector flags defects (e.g., bolts spaced 24 inches instead of 16, or missing diagonal bracing), you fix them and request a re-inspection. The re-inspection is free; you do not pull a new permit. If the defect is significant (e.g., footings are 36 inches instead of 48), you may need to excavate and re-pour, but this is still covered under the original permit. If you abandon the permit and start over (e.g., you demo the deck and rebuild from scratch), you'll need a new permit with a new fee. Keep your original permit active throughout the project to avoid this cost.

Can I build my own deck, or do I need to hire a licensed contractor in Holladay?

Owner-builders are allowed in Holladay. You can pull the permit in your name and perform the work yourself, provided you own and occupy the property. If you hire a contractor, they do not need to be licensed for carpentry/decking work in Utah (no state licensing for deck builders), but they must provide a valid ID and agree to follow the permit conditions. The permit is your responsibility as the homeowner; if there are code violations, the city will cite you, not the contractor. Ensure that whoever builds the deck (you or a contractor) understands Holladay's frost depth, seismic bracing, and ledger flashing requirements, as these are the main inspection focus points.

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Disclaimer: This guide is based on research conducted in May 2026 using publicly available sources. Always verify current deck (attached to house) permit requirements with the City of Holladay Building Department before starting your project.

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