A dog run or kennel structure sits in a tricky permit gray zone. A simple enclosure that's open on top or sides often skips the permit process entirely. A permanent structure with a roof, walls, and a concrete foundation almost always requires one. The dividing line comes down to three things: whether the structure is permanent or temporary, whether it has an enclosed roof, and how large it is. Most jurisdictions treat a roofed kennel as an accessory building — same permit pathway as a shed or pool house. Some treat an open-sided run as a fence or enclosure — lighter review, lower fees. The local zoning code layers on top: setback rules, lot-coverage limits, and sometimes explicit dog-run ordinances that cap height, size, or number per property. Before you build, a quick call to your building department clarifies which tier you're in and what paperwork you'll need. That call typically takes 10 minutes and saves weeks of uncertainty.
When a dog run or kennel structure needs a permit
The permit question hinges on two criteria: Is it a permanent structure, and does it have an enclosed roof? An open-sided dog run with no roof — think six-foot fence panels forming a rectangle with no cover — usually doesn't require a permit in most jurisdictions. It's treated as fencing, which is exempt below certain heights (typically 6 feet in residential zones). A temporary enclosure made of panel fencing or portable kennels that you can disassemble and move also typically avoids permitting. But the moment you add a roof or permanent footings, the structure crosses into accessory-building territory and usually requires a permit.
Permanent structures with roofs are the bright-line case. A roofed kennel with concrete footings, framing, and walls — even if just three sides are enclosed — triggers a permit application in virtually all jurisdictions. The roof signals intention to make it a permanent fixture, and the code wants to inspect the foundation depth, structural framing, roof load capacity, and setbacks from property lines. IRC R105.2 requires a permit for any structure that is constructed, enlarged, or moved — and a roofed kennel qualifies. Size matters too. Most building departments have a de minimis exemption for very small accessory structures: a 4-by-6-foot roofed kennel with minimal framing might clear a low-threshold exemption in some places, while a 12-by-20 kennel definitely won't.
Setbacks and lot coverage are the second permit trigger. Even an open-sided dog run can require a permit if it violates your local zoning setback rules or exceeds your allowable lot coverage for accessory structures. A corner lot or a small urban lot often has stricter setback requirements — the building department won't issue a certificate of occupancy for any structure, including a dog run, that doesn't meet them. Zoning codes frequently cap the footprint of accessory structures at 10–15 percent of lot size or a fixed square footage (e.g., 200 or 400 square feet combined for all accessory buildings). If your dog run pushes you over that limit, a variance application is usually required alongside the permit.
Material and construction method also matter in the permit calculus. A metal-frame dog run with PVC or vinyl panels might be treated as a temporary fixture if it has no foundation and can be relocated. A wood-frame structure with a concrete slab foundation is permanent and permittable. In some jurisdictions, a chain-link dog run on footings is treated as fencing (exempt or low-threshold); the same size structure with wood framing and a roof is an accessory building (full permit). The building department's interpreter is your guide. Call them, describe your exact plan — materials, dimensions, roof, footings — and they'll tell you whether you're filing a building permit, a fence permit, or nothing at all.
One common mistake: homeowners build a roofed kennel without a permit, then call the building department for a CO or certificate of use. By then the structure is already in place, which complicates the enforcement conversation. Inspectors will flag foundation depth, framing connections, roof attachment, and setbacks. You'll likely be forced to tear it down and rebuild to code, or pull a permit retroactively and make corrections on site. Neither is cheaper than filing upfront. The safe approach: file before you dig footings. Most permit applications are approved within 3–4 weeks; over-the-counter approvals (for simple structures in some jurisdictions) can happen in a day.
Regional and local variation is significant. Coastal areas with hurricane codes often require reinforced roof attachments and wind-rated materials for any roofed structure, even a kennel. Cold-climate zones like Minnesota and Wisconsin enforce frost-depth requirements that push footing depth below 36–48 inches — a major cost driver if you're using permanent concrete. California's energy code sometimes applies to enclosed dog runs if they're heated or cooled. Florida's Building Code 8th Edition applies specific tiedown rules for roofed structures in wind zones. Your jurisdiction's amendments to the IRC or IBC may have explicit language on dog runs, kennels, or temporary animal enclosures. The path forward is the same: call the building department, confirm the trigger, and file if required.
How dog run and kennel permits vary by state and region
Cold-climate states — Wisconsin, Minnesota, Michigan, Ohio, Pennsylvania — enforce deep frost-heave requirements that affect any roofed kennel with a permanent foundation. Frost depth ranges from 36 inches (southern Ohio) to 48 inches (northern Wisconsin and Minnesota). If your kennel footings don't go below the frost line, they'll heave in freeze-thaw cycles, cracking the structure and eventually collapsing it. This requirement applies to any permanent footing, including post footings for a roofed dog run. Plan for costs to shift upward in these states: a simple 10-by-12 roofed kennel with four corner posts will need post holes 4 feet deep, which adds labor and material cost. Some jurisdictions allow above-ground concrete pads if you're willing to pour new footing every spring, but most inspectors won't sign off on that for a permanent structure. The IRC requires foundations to extend below the frost line; your state building code clarifies the depth, and the building department enforces it.
Coastal and hurricane-zone states — Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina, Louisiana, and parts of California — impose wind-load and tie-down requirements on any roofed structure, even small ones. Florida's Building Code (currently 8th Edition) requires roof-to-wall connections, reinforced framing, and often metal hardware rated for the design wind speed of your county. A simple 8-by-10 kennel in Miami or Jacksonville must have hurricane straps or clips rated for 150+ mph winds, even if it's just a kennel. This drives permit scrutiny and adds cost; some building departments require sealed structural drawings for roofed kennels in high-wind zones. Open-sided dog runs in these states are often exempt from wind-load rules because the structure doesn't create a pressure envelope. The bright line: if there's a roof and four walls, it gets wind-engineering scrutiny.
California's Title 24 energy code sometimes applies to dog runs and kennels if they are heated, cooled, or partially enclosed. An open-sided run doesn't trigger Title 24 review. A roofed kennel with a heat lamp, heated water bowl, or insulation may trigger it. Building departments in California vary on how aggressively they apply Title 24 to animal structures, but it's a known variance point. Pacific Northwest jurisdictions (Washington, Oregon) also tend to require more robust roof and wall framing for rain load and wind load, reflecting their climate and rainfall patterns.
Some municipalities — particularly those with animal-control or animal-welfare ordinances — impose explicit size, design, or material rules on dog kennels independent of the building code. A few jurisdictions cap kennel height at 6 feet, restrict the number of kennels per lot, or require minimum square footage per animal. These are often found in zoning codes, not building codes, and may or may not trigger a full building permit. Always check both the local building code and the zoning/animal-control code when planning a kennel. A call to the zoning department and the building department can save you from designing a kennel that's compliant with the IRC but violates a local ordinance.
Common scenarios
Open-sided dog run, no roof, under 150 square feet, meets setbacks
An open-sided enclosure made of fence panels with no roof is treated as fencing in most jurisdictions, not a structure. If it's under 6 feet high (the standard exemption threshold) and meets your local setback requirements — typically 5 feet from a side property line, 25 feet from the front — no permit is required. You can build it immediately. No plan review, no inspection, no certificate of occupancy needed. This is the lowest-friction dog run scenario. Note: if your lot is in a corner lot or a front-loaded property, setback rules may be stricter. Confirm with the building department that your proposed location meets setbacks before you start; a quick phone call (two minutes) prevents a demolition order later.
Roofed kennel with wood frame, concrete slab, 8-by-10 feet, permanent structure
A roofed kennel with a concrete slab foundation and wood-frame walls is a permanent accessory building and requires a full building permit in virtually all jurisdictions. You'll file a standard building permit application, provide a site plan showing the kennel's location and setbacks from property lines, a floor plan with dimensions, and a basic framing detail (or engineer's drawing if your jurisdiction requires it). Permit cost typically runs $150–$400 depending on your municipality's fee structure (usually 1–2 percent of project valuation; a $5,000 kennel would generate a $75–$150 permit). Plan review takes 2–4 weeks. Once approved, you'll schedule a footing inspection (before you pour concrete), a framing inspection (after walls and roof framing are up), and a final inspection. Total timeline from application to certificate of occupancy is typically 4–8 weeks, depending on how quickly you schedule inspections and how clean your first submission is. This is the standard pathway; expect two to three inspection visits.
Roofed kennel in a cold-climate zone (Wisconsin, Minnesota) with permanent footings
Same outcome as the wood-frame scenario above — you need a building permit. The added complexity: frost-depth requirements push footing design. If you're in northern Minnesota or Wisconsin, footings must extend 48 inches below grade. If you're using post footings for a wood-frame roofed kennel, each post hole must go 4 feet deep. This is a structural requirement, not optional, and the footing inspection will verify depth. If you're using a concrete slab, the slab must sit on a frost-protected footing that extends below 48 inches, or use a stemwall and foundation design that the building inspector approves. This adds cost and complexity compared to warmer climates. Some builders use a pre-engineered frost-protected shallow foundation (FPSF) design to reduce footing depth; confirm with your local building department whether they accept FPSF designs for a dog kennel. The permit process is the same (2–4 week review), but your construction cost and timeline will be longer due to deeper footings and possible frost-protection engineering.
Temporary portable kennel on gravel, no footings, no roof, moved seasonally
A temporary, portable dog kennel made of chain-link panels or metal frame with no permanent footings and no roof is typically exempt from building permits. If it's on your own property and you can disassemble it and move it, most jurisdictions treat it as a temporary fixture, not a structure. No permit required. However, confirm with your building department that your specific setup qualifies: some jurisdictions require that temporary structures be removed seasonally or that they're not visible from the street. If your portable kennel will sit in the same spot year-round and is visible from a neighboring property, the building department might push back, especially in dense neighborhoods. A five-minute phone call clarifies whether you're truly exempt or if you need a permit despite the portability.
Roofed kennel, meets all setbacks, but lot coverage of accessory structures would exceed local cap of 15 percent
If your total accessory structure footprint (including the proposed kennel and any existing sheds, pools, or other structures) exceeds your local zoning cap — typically 10–15 percent of lot size or a fixed square footage — you'll need a variance or conditional-use permit in addition to the building permit. This adds time (4–8 weeks for variance review) and cost ($300–$800 for variance application and hearing). You must file the variance application before or concurrent with the building permit. Some jurisdictions won't issue a building permit until the variance is approved. Check your local zoning code for the accessory structure cap; if your kennel pushes you over the limit, expect a two-tier permit process: variance (or conditional use) first, building permit after approval. If your lot is large enough that the kennel stays under the cap, a straightforward building permit is all you need.
Roofed kennel in a hurricane-zone county (Florida, South Carolina) with no sealed engineer drawings
In coastal Florida and South Carolina counties with high design wind speeds (120+ mph in some coastal zones), a roofed kennel may trigger a requirement for sealed structural drawings prepared by a licensed professional engineer. Some building departments in these counties require engineer drawings for any roofed structure, even small ones; others exempt structures under a certain size (e.g., 200 square feet) or with simple geometry. Call your building department and provide the kennel dimensions and design. If they require engineered drawings, budget $500–$1,500 for the engineer; this extends your timeline to 2–3 months because you'll need the drawings before you can file the permit. If they don't require engineered drawings, you can file with a basic site plan and framing detail, and your timeline drops to 4–6 weeks. The wind-load requirement is non-negotiable in high-wind zones; the question is whether your specific structure triggers it.
What documents to file and who can pull the permit
| Document | What it is | Where to get it |
|---|---|---|
| Building Permit Application | Standard form from your building department. Includes project address, owner name, contractor info, description of work, estimated valuation, and signature of the homeowner or contractor. | Building department website or in-person at the permit counter. Most jurisdictions offer PDFs; some require you to use their online portal. |
| Site Plan | A scaled drawing (typically 1/8 inch = 1 foot) showing your lot boundaries, the kennel's location, setbacks from property lines, and any existing structures. Dimensions and compass orientation required. This is the most-rejected document — missing setback callouts or unclear property lines cause rejections. | You draw it or hire a surveyor ($300–$600) to provide a certified site plan with lot dimensions and existing structures marked. For a simple kennel, a hand-drawn site plan with lot dimensions is often acceptable if it's clear and to scale. |
| Floor Plan and Elevation | Top-down view and side view of the kennel showing interior dimensions, door location, roof pitch (if any), and wall height. Not to scale is acceptable for simple structures; to-scale drawings (1/8 inch = 1 foot) speed review. Include material notes (wood frame, concrete slab, metal roof, etc.). | You sketch it or use a drawing tool (even a clear photo with dimensions can work for small, simple structures). If the building department specifies a certain drawing format, follow it exactly; form rejections are common. |
| Footing / Foundation Detail | A section drawing showing how the kennel's footings or foundation will be built. Show footing depth, concrete thickness, post size, and frost-depth compliance (in cold climates). In frost-zone states, this is required for approval. Building departments commonly reject footing details that don't show depth below the frost line. | You provide a detail drawing, or an engineer provides it. For a simple post footing, a hand-drawn section labeled with depth and post size is often acceptable. Cold-climate building departments are stricter; they may require a detail stamped by a professional engineer if the design is non-standard. |
| Structural Engineer Stamp (if required) | A sealed drawing package prepared and stamped by a licensed professional engineer. Required in high-wind zones (coastal states, some jurisdictions), for large or complex kennels, or if the building department specifies. Shows wind load, roof load, connection details, and code compliance. | You hire a structural engineer. Cost: $500–$1,500 for a small kennel. Budget 2–3 weeks for the engineer to prepare, review, and stamp the drawings. |
Who can pull: The homeowner can pull the permit in every jurisdiction. A contractor can also pull it on the homeowner's behalf; some jurisdictions require a signed authorization letter. A few jurisdictions require that a licensed contractor (electrician, general contractor) pull the permit if any licensed work is involved, but a simple wood-frame dog kennel typically doesn't require licensed labor. Confirm with your building department whether you can file it yourself or need a contractor to file it. For straightforward kennel applications, most building departments are fine with homeowner filing.
Why dog run and kennel permits get rejected — and how to fix them
- Site plan missing or unclear setbacks from property lines
Redraw the site plan with the kennel's location clearly marked, property line dimensions clearly labeled, and setback measurements called out (e.g., '5 ft from east property line, 25 ft from front setback'). If your lot dimensions are uncertain, get a surveyor's plat or property deed with lot dimensions. This is the #1 reason fence and structure permits get sent back; don't skip it. - Footing detail missing or does not show compliance with local frost depth
Add a section detail showing footing depth. In cold climates, call the building department and ask for the frost depth in your county (typically 36–48 inches in the northern US). Your footing detail must show footings extending below that depth. If you're using above-ground construction, note it and confirm with the building department that it's acceptable. Most inspectors will reject a footing detail that doesn't reference the frost depth or local frost requirement. - Valuation missing or appears artificially low
Provide a realistic cost estimate for the kennel's construction. Building departments use valuation to calculate permit fees and to flag projects that may have been undervalued to dodge fees. If your estimate is significantly lower than regional averages, the building department may request a detailed cost breakdown (materials, labor hourly rates, equipment rental). For a roofed 8-by-10 wood-frame kennel, expect a realistic valuation of $4,000–$8,000 depending on finish, location, and labor costs. Provide a cost breakdown if the department questions your estimate. - Application filed under wrong permit type
Confirm with the building department before you file whether your project is a building permit, a fence permit, or requires no permit. A roofed kennel is a building permit; an open-sided run under 6 feet might be a fence permit or no permit. A 30-second phone call prevents filing under the wrong type and having to reapply. - Scope drawing missing interior dimensions or material callouts
Redraw the floor plan and elevation with every dimension labeled (length, width, height, door width, door height, wall construction, roof material). Include a note about materials (e.g., 'wood frame, 4x4 posts, 2x6 beams, corrugated metal roof'). This speeds plan review because the inspector doesn't have to guess what you're building. - Permit application incomplete — missing owner signature, property address, or description of work
Before submitting, verify that every field in the application is filled out, the owner (you) has signed it, and the address is correct. Many jurisdictions now use online portals that flag missing required fields; paper applications often get rejected silently. Check the department's checklist on their website and ensure you've attached all required documents before submitting.
Permit fees, inspections, and construction costs for dog runs and kennels
Permit fees for dog runs and kennels vary widely by jurisdiction and are typically based on the project's estimated valuation. A small, simple dog run (under 100 square feet) might cost $50–$150 in permit fees; a larger roofed kennel (200+ square feet) might run $200–$500. Jurisdictions usually charge 1–2 percent of project valuation as a permit fee, plus flat processing fees ($25–$75) or plan-check fees ($50–$150). Inspection fees are often bundled into the permit fee; others charge $50–$100 per inspection. Cold-climate states and coastal hurricane-zone states may charge higher permit fees because they require more plan review and inspector time. A jurisdiction that requires sealed engineer drawings may also charge a third-party review fee ($100–$300) for an engineer retained by the building department to verify the applicant's drawings.
| Line item | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Permit application and base fee | $50–$150 | Flat fee or 1–2% of project valuation, whichever is higher. Includes initial filing and basic plan review. |
| Plan review or expedited review | $50–$150 | Optional fee charged by some jurisdictions for faster turnaround (1–2 weeks instead of 3–4). Not required for standard review. |
| Inspection fees (per inspection) | $50–$100 | Footing, framing, final. Often bundled into permit fee; if separate, typically 2–3 inspections at $50–$100 each = $100–$300 total. |
| Third-party engineer review (if required) | $100–$300 | Charged by some jurisdictions if the building department contracts an engineer to review your structural drawings. Coastal and high-wind zones are more likely to charge this. |
| Professional engineer drawings (if required) | $500–$1,500 | Hired by you, not the building department. Required in high-wind zones, for large or complex structures, or if local code requires it. Budget 2–3 weeks for preparation. |
| Surveyor's site plan (if needed) | $300–$600 | Hired by you if the building department rejects your hand-drawn site plan or if your lot dimensions are unclear. Often necessary for tight setback situations. |
| Construction cost (simple open-sided run, no roof) | $500–$2,000 | Materials only (fence panels, posts, concrete). Varies by size and material quality. Labor adds $500–$1,500 if you hire it out. |
| Construction cost (roofed kennel, 8×10, wood frame, concrete slab) | $4,000–$8,000 | Materials, labor, concrete footing. Frost-zone deep footings add $500–$1,000. Metal roof or upgraded materials add cost. Varies by region and local labor rates. |
| Construction cost (roofed kennel with frost-protected footings, cold climate) | $5,000–$10,000 | Same as above, plus frost-depth footing design and deeper excavation. Deep post holes (48 inches) and concrete add significant cost in freeze-thaw zones. |
Common questions
Do I need a permit for a temporary dog kennel I'll take down in the winter?
Typically no, if the kennel is genuinely portable and has no permanent footings. A metal-frame or PVC-panel kennel with no concrete foundation that you disassemble and relocate is not a structure and doesn't require a permit in most jurisdictions. However, if you leave it in the same spot year-round, the building department might consider it a permanent fixture and require a permit even if it's technically movable. Call your local building department and describe your setup: portable, no footings, seasonal removal. If they agree it's temporary, you're free to build. If they say it needs to stay, confirm whether a permit is required.
What's the difference between a dog run and a shed for permit purposes?
None, structurally. Both are accessory buildings subject to the same permit rules if they're permanent structures with roofs. The building code doesn't distinguish between a roofed dog kennel and a roofed garden shed — both require a permit, foundation inspection, framing inspection, and final inspection. The main difference is in zoning: some ordinances allow you to build a shed anywhere on your property that meets setbacks, while they restrict dog kennels or livestock structures to certain zones. Check your local zoning code for any specific restrictions on animal structures; they're separate from the building code's structural requirements.
Do I need a separate electrical permit for a dog kennel with a heat lamp or water heater?
Yes, typically. If your kennel includes any electrical work — heat lamp, heated water bowl, light fixture, or electric heater — that work requires a separate electrical permit and must be done by a licensed electrician in most jurisdictions. The electrical permit is filed separately from the building permit, even though the kennel itself requires a building permit. The electrician usually files the electrical permit on your behalf. If you're hiring a contractor to build the kennel, confirm that they'll coordinate the electrical work and secure the electrical permit. If you're doing it yourself, you'll file the electrical permit separately and pay a separate electrical permit fee (typically $50–$150).
What happens if I build a roofed dog kennel without a permit?
The building department will eventually find out (via a neighbor complaint, property inspection, or a future sale). Once they do, you'll be ordered to bring the structure into code compliance or tear it down. If the kennel violates setback rules, has inadequate footing depth, or lacks proper roof attachments, the inspector will likely order demolition unless you can obtain a retroactive permit and make corrections on site. Corrections often cost more than building it right the first time because the structure is already in place and may need to be partially dismantled. If you're selling the property, the buyer's lender may require a permit and inspection before closing. The safe, cheap approach is always to pull the permit before you build.
How long does it take to get a dog run or kennel permit approved?
Simple, compliant applications: 1–2 weeks for over-the-counter approval (walk in, file, inspector approves same day or next). Standard plan-review applications: 3–4 weeks. Complex applications requiring engineer drawings or variances: 6–8 weeks or more. Once approved, construction timeline is separate: a simple open-sided run takes 1–2 days; a roofed kennel with foundation and inspections takes 2–4 weeks. The total project clock from permit application to final inspection is typically 4–8 weeks for a roofed structure, assuming no rejections and timely inspection scheduling. Expedited review (if available) can cut plan review time to 1–2 weeks, but costs extra ($50–$150).
Do I need a permit for a dog run that's just chain-link fencing on existing posts?
Depends on the height and whether the posts are new or existing. If you're adding chain-link panels to existing fence posts and the total height is under 6 feet, most jurisdictions treat it as a fence repair or modification, which is exempt. If you're installing new posts and adding chain-link above 6 feet, or if the enclosure will form a barrier more substantial than a typical fence (walls and roof), a permit may be required. Call your building department and describe what you're building: chain-link only, height, existing or new posts, and whether it has a roof. If it's just a 6-foot fence with chain-link panels, you're almost certainly exempt.
Can I apply for a dog run permit myself, or do I need a contractor?
You can almost always apply for the permit yourself. The building department doesn't require a licensed contractor to file a building permit for a dog kennel; the homeowner or owner of the property can file it. However, once the permit is issued, if you hire someone to build the structure, that person (if they're a general contractor in your jurisdiction) may need a contractor license. A family member or friend building it for you typically doesn't need a license. Confirm with your building department whether a contractor license is required for a kennel build in your area; it varies by state and city.
What's the frost depth in my area, and why does it matter for a dog kennel?
Frost depth is how far below ground the soil freezes in winter. In northern climates (Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan, northern New York), frost depth ranges from 36 to 48 inches. In moderate climates (southern Ohio, Pennsylvania, northern Missouri), it's 24–36 inches. In warm climates (Florida, Louisiana, Texas), frost depth is zero — ground doesn't freeze. Why it matters: if you build a kennel footing above the frost line, frost heave will lift and crack the structure in winter, eventually destroying it. Building codes require that footings extend below the frost line. If your frost depth is 48 inches and your footing is only 24 inches deep, the permit will be rejected and you'll have to dig deeper. Ask your building department for your local frost depth, or search the USDA Hardiness Zone map online. Budget deeper footings and more excavation in cold climates.
Do I need a zoning variance for a dog kennel, or just a building permit?
You may need both. The building permit is for the structure itself (foundation, framing, safety). A zoning variance is for land-use compliance (setbacks, lot coverage, use type). If your kennel meets all local setback rules and stays under the lot-coverage cap for accessory structures, a building permit is all you need. If the kennel violates a setback, exceeds lot-coverage limits, or sits in a zone that doesn't allow animal structures or kennels, you need a variance or conditional-use permit before or concurrent with the building permit. Check your local zoning code or call the zoning department before you file the building permit. This is a common reason permits get delayed: the applicant files a building permit without realizing they also need a variance.
Can I get a building permit for a dog kennel design that the inspector says doesn't meet code?
No. The building department won't issue a permit for a design that violates code. If your proposed kennel violates frost-depth rules, setbacks, lot coverage, or wind-load requirements, you'll be asked to redesign it before the permit is approved. Common fixes: deepen the footings, relocate the kennel to meet setbacks, reduce the size to stay under lot-coverage caps, or add structural bracing for wind load. Once your design is compliant, the permit will be approved. Don't submit a permit application for a design you're not committed to; it wastes time. Call the building department first, describe your plan, and get feedback before you file.
Ready to get your dog run or kennel permitted?
Start by calling or visiting your local building department. Have ready: your property address, the kennel's approximate dimensions, whether it will have a roof, and whether you'll use permanent footings. A five-minute conversation will tell you whether you need a permit, what documents to file, and what to expect. If the answer is yes, gather your site plan, floor plan, and footing detail, then submit the application. Most permits are approved in 3–4 weeks. If the answer is no, save the documentation anyway — you may need it later if the property is inspected or sold.
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