Any new fireplace, wood stove, pellet stove, or gas insert requires a permit in virtually every jurisdiction. So does installing a new chimney or venting system. What doesn't require a permit: replacing decorative tile on an existing hearth, installing a mantel, or swapping out a chimney cap.
Why the strict rules? Fireplaces and stoves involve three hazards the building code takes seriously: uncontrolled fire at the appliance itself, carbon monoxide or combustible gases escaping into living space, and chimney fires that spread to framing and roofing. The IRC (International Residential Code) has two entire chapters devoted to them — R1001 for masonry fireplaces and R1003 for chimneys — plus NFPA 211, the National Fire Protection Association's chimney standard, which most jurisdictions adopt by reference.
The permit covers two main things: the appliance itself (hearth clearances, combustible-material distances, sizing) and the venting path (chimney height, interior dimensions, materials, termination). A few states and air-quality regions ban new wood-burning fireplaces entirely due to air-quality standards; others allow them but with EPA certification requirements. Gas fireplaces usually cost less and pull fewer inspections, but they still need gas-line permitting and often electrical work.
You'll need plan review (typically 2–4 weeks) and at least two inspections: one after framing and hearth prep, one final after the appliance is installed. Budget $150–$500 for the permit itself, depending on your jurisdiction and whether you're doing a simple insert retrofit or a full chimney build.
Fireplace and stove permits: thresholds and exemptions
A permit is required whenever you install a new heating appliance (wood stove, pellet stove, gas insert, wood-burning insert) or build a new chimney or venting system. You also need a permit to decommission an existing fireplace or disconnect a chimney. What's exempt: decorative work only. Replacing a hearth surround with tile, installing a new mantel, or painting the fireplace facade doesn't require a permit if you don't touch the appliance, hearth depth, or clearances. Similarly, replacing a chimney cap, damper, or spark arrester may be exempt in some jurisdictions — but call ahead; a few require a permit for any chimney work.
The code divides fireplaces into two categories, and each has its own thresholds. Masonry fireplaces (built on-site with brick, stone, or block) are governed by IRC R1001. Factory-built fireplaces (metal boxes, usually for gas) and inserts fall under IRC R1003 for the chimney and the manufacturer's listing for the appliance. Wood stoves and pellet stoves are treated as factory-built appliances and must be EPA-certified under the National Emission Standards for Hazardous Air Pollutants (NSPS). As of 2020, the EPA lowered the particulate-emission limit from 4.5 to 2.0 grams per hour — so any used stove you're buying must carry a 2020-or-later EPA label, or it will be rejected at final inspection.
Hearth and clearances are the first thing inspectors check. For masonry fireplaces with a fireplace opening over 6 square feet, IRC R1001.1 requires a hearth extension at least 16 inches in front of the opening and 8 inches on each side. The hearth itself must be made of non-combustible materials (slate, tile, concrete, stone) at least 4 inches thick, or 6 inches if it sits on wood framing. For wood stoves, NFPA 211 requires 36 inches clearance from the back and sides of the stove to combustible walls, unless you shield the wall with metal or insulation rated to reduce clearance to 18 inches. A wood stove mantel above the stove needs at least 12 inches of clearance (or 6 inches if the wall is shielded), and the mantel cannot be less than 12 inches away from the centerline of the flue vent.
Chimney height is non-negotiable. The chimney must extend at least 3 feet above the highest point of the roof it penetrates, and at least 2 feet above anything — a roof peak, ridge vent, gutter, or adjacent structure — within 10 horizontal feet. This rule exists to prevent downdraft and ensure proper draft in the flue. Chimney interior dimensions vary by appliance type. A masonry fireplace typically needs a flue of at least 8x8 inches (64 square inches) for a fireplace opening up to 42 square inches; larger openings need bigger flues. A metal single-wall stove pipe cannot be used as a permanent chimney — it must connect to a listed chimney (masonry, metal Class A, or composite) within a few feet of the stove.
Gas fireplaces add electrical and gas-line considerations. Any gas appliance must have a properly sized gas line (typically 1/2-inch for a single appliance drawing under 100,000 BTU, but the inspector will verify based on your total load — other furnaces, water heaters, dryers, and stoves all draw from the same line). Gas pressure must be tested and documented; the installer or a licensed gas fitter will do this. Many gas inserts also need 120-volt electrical service for the ignition and fan, which may require a subpanel upgrade or a new circuit depending on the fireplace model. Some jurisdictions require a carbon-monoxide detector hardwired within 15 feet of the fireplace; confirm with your building department.
Regional and air-quality restrictions can make wood-burning fireplaces unavailable. The EPA's air-quality nonattainment areas (largely in California, parts of the Interior West, and a few Eastern metro areas) ban new wood-burning fireplaces outright or allow them only in replacement-only scenarios (you're replacing an existing fireplace, not adding a new one). Some counties require wood fireplaces to be equipped with catalytic converters or phase-out schedules. Check your county air-quality board's website or call your building department; many will tell you in 30 seconds whether wood burning is allowed at your address. If not, a gas fireplace or a pellet stove (which has a separate permit path and lower emissions) may be your path forward.
How fireplace and stove permits vary by region
Wood-burning restrictions are the biggest geographic split. California has essentially banned new wood-burning fireplaces in most counties as of 2020 (with narrow exceptions for replacement-in-kind). The Denver metro area and much of the Interior West (Colorado, Utah, Wyoming) have similar phase-out schedules, especially in winter months. The Northeast and Midwest have fewer restrictions, but high-altitude areas (Denver, Boulder, Flagstaff) often cap wood-burning appliances to a certain percentage of homes per year or require EPA-certified low-emitting models. The Pacific Northwest is split: Oregon bans new non-EPA-certified stoves, while Washington allows them but imposes a woodstove efficiency standard (usually 75% minimum). Before you plan a wood-burning project, verify eligibility with your county air-quality board.
Chimney standards vary slightly by state adoption. Most states have adopted the IRC and NFPA 211 as the baseline, but a few have state amendments. Florida, for example, adds wind-resistance requirements for chimneys (because of hurricane codes), and chimney clearance to roof edges is stricter in wind zones. Texas and Oklahoma adjust foundation depth for frost, but chimney height rules are nationwide. Gas fireplace venting, though, can differ: California requires direct-vent (sealed combustion) gas fireplaces in many jurisdictions to prevent indoor air-quality issues, while other states allow vent-free or B-vent systems. Call ahead if you're planning a gas fireplace in California or in high-altitude areas — your appliance choice may be constrained before you even get to permitting.
Inspection timelines also vary. Urban jurisdictions (Los Angeles, Chicago, New York) often have 3–6 week plan-review waits and require in-person inspections scheduled well in advance. Rural or smaller-city departments may offer same-week or next-day inspections for wood stoves, since they're simpler than masonry fireplaces. A few Midwestern jurisdictions let you pull a wood-stove permit over-the-counter with no plan review (just the appliance manual and installation instructions), while coastal areas and high-risk fire zones typically require detailed plan review and may ask for an aerial photo of your roof, existing chimneys, and nearby structures. If you're in a wildfire-prone area, expect additional clearance questions — roofing material, gutter design, and distance to trees all come up.
Common scenarios
Replacing an old wood stove with a new EPA-certified wood stove in the same location
You need a permit and at least one inspection. Even though the stove is in the same spot, the building code requires that you verify (1) the new stove meets current EPA NSPS standards (2.0 grams per hour particulate or lower), (2) the existing chimney is in serviceable condition and hasn't degraded, and (3) clearances to combustibles are still met — they may have changed if walls were added or insulation was installed nearby. The chimney will be visually inspected for cracks, gaps, creosote buildup, or deterioration. If the chimney is lined (metal pipe inside masonry), the lining must be continuous and undamaged. Plan on 2–3 weeks for permit processing and one inspection after the stove is installed but before you light it. Typical cost is $150–$300.
Converting an old wood fireplace to a gas insert
This requires three separate permits: building (fireplace insert), mechanical (gas line), and sometimes electrical (ignition and blower). The building permit covers the hearth, clearances, and insertion of the gas box into the existing firebox. The mechanical permit covers the gas-line sizing and run from the main gas line to the appliance, plus the pressure test. Electrical covers the 120-volt circuit to the insert's ignition and fan (unless it's pilot-light only, which is rare). Plan review is typically 3–4 weeks because the inspector needs to verify that the gas line is properly sized (check your total BTU load across all appliances), that the insert's factory dimensions fit your existing masonry opening, and that venting (usually through the existing chimney) meets the insert's specifications. You'll have at least three inspections: gas-line pressure test, frame/insert placement, and final. Cost ranges from $300–$600 (three separate permits), depending on whether you're pulling the permits yourself or the contractor is handling them.
Building a new masonry fireplace from scratch (new construction or major addition)
This is the most involved fireplace permit and typically requires structural engineering review in addition to building-department plan check. You're not just permitting the fireplace; you're permitting the foundation (which may need its own footing below frost depth), the chimney structure, flashing, and the brick/stone itself. The building department will want to see the fireplace and chimney dimensions (flue size, hearth depth and width), structural framing around the firebox, the chimney exterior design, flashing details at the roof, and the chimney termination height. You'll need the appliance manual or a fireplace drawing from the designer. Plan review takes 4–6 weeks; inspections happen at foundation, framing (before the hearth is poured), and final. Cost is typically $300–$500, and the timeline from permit to final sign-off is often 8–12 weeks (including cure time for masonry). If the fireplace is in a high-wind zone (Florida, coastal California) or a historical district, add 2–3 weeks for special review.
Installing a pellet stove with a new metal Class-A chimney through the roof
A pellet stove and chimney require a building permit covering both the appliance placement and the chimney routing. Pellet stoves must be EPA-certified (same 2.0 grams per hour standard as wood stoves) and are usually simpler than wood stoves from a venting perspective because the stove itself manages the combustion and draft. The permit review covers clearances (typically 1–3 inches from combustibles, depending on the stove model), the hearth pad (18 inches in front, 12 inches on sides for most models), electrical connection (pellet stoves need 120-volt power for the auger and blower), and the chimney routing. The metal Class-A chimney must be listed, properly supported every 6 feet, sealed at joints, and terminate 3 feet above the roof peak. Plan on 2–3 weeks for plan review and one inspection after the stove and chimney are installed. Cost is typically $200–$400. Note: pellet stoves do not have air-quality restrictions in most regions, making them a viable alternative to wood stoves in California and other regulated areas.
Replacing hearth tile and installing a new decorative mantel on an existing fireplace (no changes to appliance or chimney)
Decorative work only — no permit required. You can replace hearth tile, paint the fireplace surround, install a new wooden mantel, or add stone facing to the exterior chimney without a permit, as long as you don't alter the hearth depth, remove or modify the damper, change clearances, or touch any part of the chimney structure. If your new mantel extends into the required clearance zone (12 inches from the centerline of the flue vent for wood stoves, or per the gas fireplace manual for inserts), the building department may require a retroactive inspection. Otherwise, this is a pure DIY or contractor job with no permitting.
Replacing a chimney cap and spark arrester on an existing masonry chimney
In most jurisdictions, replacing a chimney cap or spark arrester is exempt from permitting if you're using an identical product (same material, same dimensions) and not removing or modifying any structural component. However, a few jurisdictions classify any chimney work as requiring a permit, even cap replacement. Your safest move: call the building department with the old cap's dimensions and the new product specs. If they say it's exempt, get that in writing (or email confirmation). If they require a permit, it's usually a simple over-the-counter filing — $50–$100, no plan review, one visual inspection. Installing a new cap that increases draft-resistance (like a large rain cap replacing a simple metal top) may trigger a plan-review requirement because you're altering the chimney's performance characteristics.
What to file: documents and who can pull the permit
| Document | What it is | Where to get it |
|---|---|---|
| Fireplace or stove appliance manual | The manufacturer's installation and operation manual, which includes dimensions, clearance requirements, venting specifications, and performance data. For wood stoves, this must show EPA certification (2020 NSPS or later). For gas fireplaces, it includes BTU output and venting type (direct-vent, B-vent, or vent-free). | Included with the appliance or downloadable from the manufacturer's website. If you're buying a used stove or fireplace, request the manual from the seller or download it using the model number. |
| Site plan or floor plan | A simple drawing (1/8-inch scale or smaller) showing the location of the fireplace or stove, its distance from exterior walls, the location of the chimney through the roof, and the chimney termination height relative to the roof peak. For masonry fireplaces, include footprint dimensions and proposed flue size. | You can sketch this yourself on graph paper and label key dimensions, or ask your contractor to provide it. Most building departments accept hand-drawn plans if dimensions are clear and legible. |
| Chimney and venting diagram | A vertical cross-section or isometric drawing showing how the chimney or flue connects to the appliance, runs through framing and floors, and exits the roof. For multi-story homes, this diagram prevents chimney routing errors and clearance violations. | The appliance manufacturer may provide a standard venting diagram in the manual. If not, your installer can sketch one, or the building department may provide a template. |
| Gas line diagram (gas appliances only) | A simple line drawing of the gas supply from the meter to the fireplace, showing pipe size and run length. The installer typically prepares this as part of the mechanical permit. | Your gas installer or HVAC contractor. If you're pulling the mechanical permit yourself, this is simple enough to sketch — meter location, pipe size (usually 1/2-inch), and route to the appliance. |
| Electrical connection diagram (if required) | A simple schematic showing the 120-volt circuit serving the fireplace insert or pellet stove, including the panel location, breaker size, and circuit routing. Most departments accept a hand-drawn diagram; formal electrical plans are required only for complex multi-circuit setups. | Your electrician will provide this, or you can sketch it if the circuit is straightforward (single circuit from panel to appliance). |
| Photo of existing chimney (if replacing or modifying) | A clear photograph of the existing chimney from ground level and from the roof, showing the current termination height, condition, and any nearby obstructions (trees, other structures, roof features). This helps the inspector assess whether the existing chimney can be reused or must be rebuilt. | Take photos yourself with a smartphone. Wide-angle photos from multiple angles are helpful. |
Who can pull: A homeowner can pull a fireplace or stove permit in all 50 states. However, the gas-line and electrical components typically require licensed contractors. In most jurisdictions, the gas-line work (sizing, pressure testing, final sign-off) must be done by a licensed plumber or gas fitter. Electrical work can be pulled by a licensed electrician, though some states allow homeowners to pull their own electrical permits with licensed inspection. The building (fireplace/stove) permit can be pulled by you, your contractor, or the installer. If you're doing a multi-permit job (building + gas + electrical), coordinate with each contractor to avoid duplicate filings — often, one contractor will pull all three under your name.
Why fireplace and stove permits get bounced — and how to fix them
- Hearth extension doesn't meet the 16-inch front / 8-inch side minimum (IRC R1001.1)
Masonry fireplaces with openings over 6 square feet require a hearth extending at least 16 inches in front and 8 inches on each side. If your existing hearth is smaller, you'll need to extend it (poured concrete, tile, or stone) and submit a revised plan. This is one of the most common rejections because older fireplaces were built to older standards. - Chimney doesn't extend 3 feet above the highest point of the roof within 10 feet
The chimney must rise 3 feet above the roof peak and 2 feet above anything else (vent, adjacent peak, tree) within 10 feet horizontally. Measure from the roof to the current chimney top; if it's short, you'll need a taller chimney liner or extension. This is a frequent issue in multi-story homes or homes on slopes where the roof height varies. Resurvey the roof, measure the height, and resubmit with a corrected chimney termination height. - Wood stove or insert not EPA-certified to the current 2.0 grams per hour NSPS standard
Any wood stove installed after May 2020 must carry an EPA label showing it meets the 2.0 grams per hour emission standard. If you're using a used stove, check the label inside the stove or in the manual. If it's pre-2020, it will be rejected. You must buy a new 2020-or-later EPA-certified stove. This rule applies in all states; air-quality-regulated areas are especially strict. - Combustible material too close to the wood stove (clearance violation)
NFPA 211 requires 36 inches from the back and sides of a wood stove to combustible walls, or 18 inches if the wall is shielded with metal and air space. Similarly, mantels above the stove need 12 inches clearance (or 6 inches if the wall is shielded). If your framing is too close, you'll need to either relocate the stove or install a UL-listed wall shield (reflective metal or insulation board with air gap). Measure the current clearances and either move the stove or add shielding. - Gas line is undersized for the fireplace BTU load plus other appliances
A gas line for a single 50,000 BTU fireplace is usually 1/2-inch, but the inspector tests the combined demand of all gas appliances on the line. If your home also has a water heater, furnace, and dryer, the total demand may exceed 1/2-inch capacity. Have your gas installer calculate the total demand and upsize the line (typically to 3/4-inch) or install a second dedicated line. This requires a revised mechanical permit. - Chimney flue size doesn't match the fireplace opening
A masonry fireplace opening over 42 square inches requires a flue larger than 8x8 inches. Calculate your opening size (width x height), and if it's larger, the flue must be proportionally larger (usually 8x12 or 12x12 inches). If you're retrofitting a new fireplace into an existing chimney, verify the flue size in the chimney matches the new appliance. Resubmit a revised plan with the correct flue dimensions or select a fireplace that fits the existing flue. - No site plan or chimney routing diagram submitted
Building departments need to see where the chimney goes through the home and how it exits the roof. A simple sketch with dimensions is sufficient — mark the fireplace location on the floor plan, show the vertical chimney path through framing, and label the termination height above the roof. This is not a deal-breaker; resubmit the plan and the permit usually proceeds immediately. - Fireplace in a wood-burning nonattainment area (California, Colorado, etc.)
Check your county air-quality board's rules. If new wood burning is banned, you have two options: (1) if your home previously had a fireplace, you may be allowed a direct replacement (get confirmation in writing from the air board); (2) switch to a gas fireplace, pellet stove, or electric insert. This is a showstopper in some regions, so verify eligibility before purchasing the appliance.
Fireplace and stove permit costs
Permit fees vary widely by jurisdiction but typically range from $150 to $500. The fee usually scales with the complexity of the project: a simple wood-stove replacement in an existing location is at the low end ($150–$250), while a new masonry fireplace with chimney can run $400–$600 or more. A few jurisdictions charge a percentage of the project valuation (usually 1.5–2%), so a $5,000 gas-fireplace conversion might be $75–$100 just for the fireplace permit, plus additional mechanical and electrical permits.
Gas fireplaces and pellet stoves often trigger multiple permits (building, mechanical, electrical), which means multiple fees. Budget for at least two permit fees if you're converting from wood to gas. Some jurisdictions bundle all HVAC-related work into a single mechanical permit, while others separate building, plumbing (gas), and electrical. Ask your building department for a fee estimate before you file — it takes 5 minutes and prevents surprises.
Inspection fees are sometimes bundled into the permit and sometimes charged separately. Plan-review costs (the time spent by a plan examiner before you start work) are usually included in the permit fee; re-inspection fees (if you fail and must resubmit) are typically $25–$75. Expedited permit review (if offered) can add 50–100% to the base fee.
| Line item | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Wood stove or pellet stove replacement (existing chimney) | $150–$250 | Simple over-the-counter permit; one inspection. No plan review needed if you're using an identical appliance location. |
| New gas fireplace insert (with gas line and electrical) | $300–$600 | Three separate permits (building, mechanical, electrical). Gas-line pressure test and electrical inspection add complexity. |
| New masonry fireplace and chimney (new construction or addition) | $400–$700 | Highest complexity; includes structural and design review. Multiple inspections (foundation, framing, final). Plan review typically 4–6 weeks. |
| New metal chimney (retrofit to existing fireplace) | $200–$350 | Mid-range cost; includes design review and multiple inspections for clearance and termination height. |
| Plan review (if required separately) | $50–$150 | Some jurisdictions bundle this into the permit; others charge separately if your design is complex or non-standard. |
| Re-inspection (after rejections or corrections) | $25–$75 | Each failed inspection costs a re-inspection fee. Avoid this by getting your plan reviewed carefully before filing. |
Common questions
Can I install a fireplace insert myself, or do I need a contractor?
You can install a fireplace insert yourself if you're comfortable with basic carpentry and following the manufacturer's instructions, but the permit is still required and will be inspected by the building department. The gas-line work (if it's a gas insert) typically must be done or inspected by a licensed gas fitter or plumber — many states prohibit unlicensed people from working on gas lines. Electrical work may also require a licensed electrician depending on your state's regulations. The safer move: hire a contractor who specializes in fireplace inserts. They'll pull the permits, do the gas-line and electrical work, and ensure everything passes inspection.
How long does it take to get a fireplace or stove permit approved?
Plan review typically takes 2–4 weeks for a straightforward project (stove replacement, gas insert). Masonry fireplace permits can take 4–6 weeks because the structural design must be reviewed. Once the permit is approved, you install the appliance and schedule inspections, which usually happen within 1–2 weeks. Total timeline from filing to final sign-off is typically 6–10 weeks for a stove or insert, and 8–14 weeks for a new masonry fireplace (including time for masonry to cure).
What if I have an existing fireplace that I'm just updating with a new stove or insert?
You still need a permit, even for an in-kind replacement. The code requires the inspector to verify that the existing chimney is still serviceable (no cracks, deterioration, or improper lining), that clearances haven't been compromised, and that the new appliance meets current standards (EPA certification for wood stoves, proper venting and gas-line sizing for gas inserts). This is typically a simpler permit than a new installation and often qualifies for expedited review. Budget 2–3 weeks and one inspection.
Why do I need a permit if I'm just replacing my old stove with an identical new one in the same spot?
The permit isn't about the stove being in the same location — it's about verifying that the venting system is still safe and that the new appliance meets current EPA standards. The EPA tightened emissions standards in 2020 (to 2.0 grams per hour), so any wood stove installed now must meet that standard. Additionally, the chimney may have deteriorated since the original installation, creosote may have accumulated, or the lining may be compromised. The inspector's job is to catch these safety issues before you light the stove.
Can I convert a wood-burning fireplace to a gas fireplace?
Yes, and it's one of the most common fireplace projects. You'll need a building permit (for the gas insert and hearth), a mechanical permit (for the gas line), and possibly an electrical permit (for the ignition and fan). The existing masonry fireplace and chimney can usually be reused if the chimney is in good condition and the flue is the right size for the insert. Plan on 3–4 weeks for plan review and three separate inspections (gas-line pressure test, framing, and final). Cost ranges from $300–$600 in permitting alone, plus contractor labor.
Do I need a permit to replace a chimney cap or spark arrester?
Probably not, if you're replacing it with an identical product in the same location. However, some jurisdictions require a permit for any chimney work. Call your building department with the old cap's dimensions and the new product specs; they'll confirm whether it's exempt. If a permit is required, it's usually simple — $50–$100, no plan review, one visual inspection. Getting written confirmation before you proceed protects you.
What if my area has banned wood-burning fireplaces due to air quality?
If you're in a nonattainment area (California, Denver, Salt Lake City, or other regulated zones), you typically cannot install a new wood-burning fireplace. However, two exceptions exist: (1) you may be allowed to replace an existing fireplace with an identical wood-burning unit (replacement-in-kind) if the old one is decommissioned; (2) you can install a gas fireplace, pellet stove, or electric insert instead. Check with your county air-quality board or building department for your specific rules — they vary by jurisdiction and change periodically. Pellet stoves often have lower emissions and may be allowed where wood stoves are not.
What does an EPA-certified wood stove actually mean?
An EPA-certified stove has been tested by an independent lab and proven to emit no more than 2.0 grams of particulate matter per hour of operation (the standard as of 2020). Older stoves (pre-2020) may be certified to the old 4.5-grams-per-hour standard or have no EPA certification at all. Any wood stove installed now must carry a permanent EPA label visible inside the stove or in the manual showing compliance with the 2.0 standard. This is a non-negotiable requirement at final inspection in all states.
How much clearance do I need between a wood stove and walls or furniture?
NFPA 211 requires 36 inches from the back and sides of a wood stove to combustible materials (wood framing, drywall, etc.) unless the wall is shielded. A UL-listed metal shield with air gap can reduce this to 18 inches. Mantels or trim above the stove need 12 inches of clearance from the centerline of the flue vent (or 6 inches if the wall is shielded). Non-combustible materials (stone, tile, brick) can be closer because they don't ignite. Your installer and the building inspector will verify these clearances before you light the stove.
Can I pull a fireplace permit online, or do I have to file in person?
Most building departments now offer online permit filing, though the process and requirements vary. Urban jurisdictions like Los Angeles, Chicago, and New York have robust online portals where you upload documents and pay fees electronically. Smaller or rural departments may still require in-person or mail filing. Check your local building department's website for the online portal (usually accessible from the homepage). If no online option exists, call the department to confirm what they require and whether you can submit documents by email or mail.
Cities we cover for fireplace & wood stove permits
City-specific fireplace & wood stove permit guides with local fees, code editions, and building department contact info. Click your city for the local rules.
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Ready to get started?
Call or visit your local building department's website and confirm three things: (1) whether your fireplace or stove type is allowed in your area (especially important if you're in an air-quality-regulated region), (2) what documents they need in the permit application, and (3) the current permit fee. Most departments respond to email or phone inquiries within 24 hours. Once you have answers, you can decide whether to pull the permit yourself or hire your contractor to handle it. Have your appliance manual and a floor plan of your home ready — these two documents answer 90% of a building inspector's questions.
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