What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)
- Stop-work order + $500–$1,500 fine from City of Orlando; forced removal of non-permitted shutters or straps; re-pull permit at double cost ($400–$1,600 total).
- Insurance claim denial if hurricane damage occurs and adjuster discovers unpermitted roof attachments; your homeowner policy can be voided retroactively for 'material misrepresentation.'
- Resale disclosure requirement: if you later sell, you must disclose on the Florida ALTA form that retrofit work was done without permit; buyer can demand removal, price reduction ($5,000–$15,000), or walk.
- Loss of My Safe Florida Home grant eligibility ($2,000–$10,000) if grant auditor finds unpermitted work; must repay any funds already received.
Orlando hurricane retrofit permits — the key details
Orlando sits in HVHZ (High Velocity Hurricane Zone) per the Florida Building Code 8th Edition, which applies 150 mph three-second gust wind speeds as the design baseline for all retrofit components. The City of Orlando Building Department enforces FBC R301.2.1.1, which mandates that every roof-to-wall connection use certified straps (Simpson Strong-Tie H2.5A or equivalent) installed at every rafter or truss—spacing no greater than 24 inches—with fasteners driven into rim board or band board rated for 500+ pound pull-out in laboratory tests. Your engineer's plan must call out the sheathing thickness (typically 7/16" CDX minimum for 24" o.c. framing), fastener type and size (usually 10d or 12d galvanized nails, or structural screws), and the exact truss/rafter spacing. The secondary water barrier—essentially a peel-and-stick membrane under the roof shingle starter course—is not optional; it's required by FBC R905.2.7 for any roof deck that doesn't have continuous solid sheathing, and inspectors will climb the roof during final inspection to verify it's installed. Many homeowners skip this detail thinking it's cosmetic; it's not—it's the second line of defense against wind-driven rain, and missing it is the #1 reason for permit rejection in Orlando.
Hurricane shutters—whether roll-down, accordion, or panel—must be labeled by an HVHZ-approved testing lab (TAS 201 for accordion shutters, TAS 202 for panel shutters, TAS 203 for roll-down) or carry an equivalent ASTM E1886/E1996 certification. Generic 'storm-rated' shutters from box stores do NOT meet Orlando code; the label must be visible on the product and referenced in your plan. The City of Orlando's plan review includes a shutter-spec check; if your submittal lists a shutter model without HVHZ certification, the reviewer will reject it with a Request for Information (RFI), delaying your permit by 1–2 weeks. Impact-rated windows (tempered glass, laminate, or polycarbonate meeting ASTM E1886) are similarly labeled—the certification sticker must be present on every window, and your installer must photograph and document installation per the manufacturer's sequence. Garage-door bracing (if you're upgrading to an impact-rated door or adding braces to an existing door) requires an engineer's calculation stamped by a Florida PE; the braces must be rated for the design wind speed (150 mph for Orlando HVHZ), and the permit reviewer will check that the engineer's calcs reference the door model, brace type, and anchor points.
The secondary water barrier is where gray area compliance often stumbles. Some contractors interpret 'secondary water barrier' as felt paper under shingles; FBC requires peel-and-stick synthetic underlayment (type II, Class H per ASTM D226) running the full length of the roof, with a 6-inch overlap at seams and sealed with roof cement. If your roof is a pre-existing older asphalt shingle with a single layer of felt, the City of Orlando will require you to strip and re-roof with new sheathing inspection checkpoints. Alternatively, if the existing roof is in good condition and you're only doing a retrofit (no roof replacement), you may be able to install the secondary barrier by lifting shingles along the eaves and working the membrane up underneath—this is more labor-intensive but avoids a full roof tearoff. Your plan must specify the method; if it's unclear, the inspector will issue a Request for Clarification, so be explicit upfront.
The My Safe Florida Home program is critical to understand: if you complete a retrofit that meets FBC Existing Building standards (FBC Chapter 11), you're eligible for a state grant of $2,000–$10,000 (the amount depends on your income level and retrofit scope). The City of Orlando Building Department maintains a list of approved contractors and pre-qualified retrofit scopes; the grant is not a tax credit—it's a direct rebate paid after inspection and approval. To unlock the grant, you must have a licensed wind-mitigation inspector complete the OIR-B1-1802 form (the 'Four-Point Inspection' or 'Wind Mitigation Inspection' form) after your final permit inspection. This form must be signed by the inspector and notarized; it documents roof shape, secondary water barrier, roof-to-wall connections, and garage-door opening protection. The insurance discount tied to this form typically ranges from 15–35% annually—for a homeowner paying $1,500/year in wind-and-hail coverage, that's $225–$525/year in savings, which pays back the retrofit cost in 3–5 years. Do not skip pulling this form; it's the difference between a 'completed project' and an 'investment that pays for itself.'
Orlando's sandy, limestone-rich soils and high water table mean that foundation-level wind calculations differ from inland Florida. If your retrofit includes tie-downs for a pier-and-beam foundation (common in older Orlando homes), your engineer must specify soil class (typically SP—poorly graded sand, or SC—sandy clay in Orlando), boring depth, and anchor depth rated for cyclical tension loads. The City of Orlando Building Department's geotechnical reviewer will cross-check these specs against local boring data (available through the Florida Geological Survey). Additionally, Orlando's storm-surge risk is lower than Miami or Tampa (you're 40 miles inland), but the city's local amendments to the FBC still require HVHZ compliance because the 150 mph design wind speed applies citywide. Finally, plan on 2–4 weeks for permit review (not 2–3 days); Orlando's Building Department does not offer 'quick-check' permits for retrofits—all plans undergo full review by a structural reviewer and a building official. Budget for 2–3 site visits by the inspector: pre-retrofit (to photograph existing conditions), in-progress (to verify strap installation and secondary barrier under eaves), and final (to sign off on all components and ensure insurance-inspection readiness).
Three Orlando wind / hurricane retrofit scenarios
Orlando's HVHZ status and what it means for retrofit specs
Orlando is classified as HVHZ (High Velocity Hurricane Zone) under the Florida Building Code 8th Edition, which applies a 150 mph three-second gust design wind speed to all structural and non-structural attachments. This is the same standard that applies to coastal Miami and Tampa, even though Orlando is 40 miles inland—the classification is based on historical hurricane tracks and forward-speed modeling, not proximity to the coast. The implication for homeowners is that every retrofit component—shutter, window, roof strap, garage-door brace—must be lab-tested and certified for 150 mph conditions, not a lower 'basic' wind speed. A shutter labeled '120 mph rated' does not meet Orlando code and will be rejected during plan review.
The City of Orlando Building Department enforces HVHZ standards through the Florida Building Code Existing Building standard (FBC Chapter 11), which allows retrofits to be done without a full code upgrade as long as the retrofit components themselves meet current HVHZ standards. This is a critical distinction: you don't have to upgrade your entire house to 2023 code, only the specific items you're retrofitting. However, if your retrofit affects other systems (for example, if adding roof-to-wall straps requires removing sheathing and you discover the sheathing is inadequate), the inspector may require you to bring those systems up to code. To avoid scope creep, have your engineer scope the retrofit narrowly—for example, 'roof-to-wall strap installation only, no roof sheathing replacement' rather than 'roof retrofit, including replacement of any deficient sheathing.'
The 150 mph design speed flows through into fastener selection and testing documentation. When your engineer specifies a Simpson Strong-Tie H2.5A strap, that strap has been lab-tested by the manufacturer (and certified by the International Code Council) for 150 mph wind loads applied at multiple angles (in-plane, out-of-plane, etc.). The City of Orlando's reviewer will check that the strap is ICC-certified (not just 'Strong-Tie brand'—there are other Simpson products that don't meet HVHZ) and that the fasteners (typically 10d or 12d galvanized nails driven into rim board or rafter) have been tested for pull-out at the expected load. If your engineer specifies 'fasteners per manufacturer specification,' that's acceptable; if the plan says 'fasteners TBD on-site,' the reviewer will issue an RFI and delay your permit.
The OIR-B1-1802 wind-mitigation inspection and insurance savings
The OIR-B1-1802 form (Wind Mitigation Inspection Report) is the critical document that unlocks insurance discounts for hurricane retrofits—but it's not pulled automatically, and many homeowners skip it or don't understand how to obtain it. After your final permit inspection, you must hire a licensed wind-mitigation inspector (a Florida-licensed inspector or engineer who has completed the state's wind-mitigation training) to visit your home, verify the retrofit was done correctly, and complete the OIR-B1-1802 form. The form documents four key items: (1) roof shape (hip vs. gable—hip roofs are more wind-resistant and get a bigger discount); (2) roof-to-wall connections (presence and type of straps, fastener spacing); (3) secondary water barrier (presence and type of underlayment); (4) garage-door opening protection (impact-rated door, bracing, or shutters). The form must be notarized and submitted to your insurance company; only then will the discount be applied. Cost: $150–$300 for the wind-mitigation inspection; timeline: 1–2 weeks after final permit inspection. The discount itself varies by insurer but typically ranges from 15–35% on wind-and-hail coverage. For a homeowner paying $1,500/year in wind-hail, that's $225–$525/year in savings—a $8,000 retrofit paying back in 3–4 years through insurance savings alone.
A common mistake: assuming the City of Orlando's Building Inspector will automatically pull the OIR-B1-1802 form or that the form is included in the final permit inspection. It is not. The Building Inspector signs off that the work meets code; the wind-mitigation inspector signs off that the work qualifies for insurance discount (the standards are aligned but not identical). You must proactively hire the wind-mitigation inspector and ensure the form is submitted to your insurance company before you'll see the discount. Additionally, the form is not just a checklist—insurers use it to re-rate your premium, and some insurers may require a follow-up 'Roofing Certification' (OIR-B1-1726) if your roof is older than 20 years, adding another $50–$100 and 1-week delay. Budget for this cost and timeline upfront.
The My Safe Florida Home grant program is administered by the state (through the Florida Department of Financial Services) and is only available to homes that are owner-occupied and that meet income thresholds (varies by county; roughly $35,000–$65,000 household income for Orange County). If you qualify, the state will rebate $2,000–$10,000 of your retrofit cost after final inspection and OIR-B1-1802 form approval. However, you must apply for the grant BEFORE you start work; you cannot retrofit first and apply later. The City of Orlando's Building Department maintains a list of approved contractors and pre-approved retrofit scopes that meet grant eligibility; work with that list to avoid doing a retrofit that disqualifies you from the grant. If you're owner-builder, verify with the state program that owner-builder retrofits are eligible (some state programs exclude owner-builders).
400 South Orange Avenue, Orlando, FL 32801
Phone: (407) 246-3550 (main) or (407) 246-3600 (Building Services) | https://ebiz.orlando.gov/OWF/
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM–5:00 PM (eastern time)
Common questions
Do I need a permit for hurricane shutters alone (no other retrofit)?
Yes. The City of Orlando Building Department requires a permit for any shutter installation, even if it's the only retrofit you're doing. The permit includes plan review (to verify TAS 202 or TAS 201 certification), installation inspection (to verify fastener spacing and window-frame anchoring), and final sign-off. Permit cost: $150–$300. Timeline: 2–3 weeks. Skipping the permit is common but risky—if a hurricane damages your home and the adjuster discovers unpermitted shutters, your insurance claim can be denied.
What is TAS 201 vs. TAS 202 vs. TAS 203, and why do shutters need these labels?
TAS (Dade County Test of Acceptance Specifications) is Miami-Dade's laboratory testing protocol for impact-resistant components; the standard is adopted statewide in Florida's HVHZ. TAS 201 is for accordion shutters; TAS 202 is for panel shutters; TAS 203 is for roll-down shutters. The label means the shutter has been lab-tested for 150 mph wind loads, water infiltration, and cyclic fatigue—ensuring it won't fail in a real hurricane. Shutters without a TAS or ASTM E1886 label will be rejected during the City of Orlando's plan review. Check the product spec sheet or ask the manufacturer for the label before you buy.
Do I need a secondary water barrier if I'm not replacing my roof?
Yes, if you're doing a roof-to-wall strap retrofit or any work that disturbs the roof sheathing or shingles. FBC R905.2.7 requires a secondary water barrier (peel-and-stick synthetic underlayment) under the starter course of shingles for HVHZ areas. If your existing roof is old felt paper, the City of Orlando will require replacement with the synthetic barrier. If your roof is relatively new and you're only installing straps (not replacing shingles), you can install the barrier by lifting the eaves shingles and sliding the membrane underneath—labor-intensive but avoids a full tear-off. Your plan must specify the method; if it says 'secondary barrier TBD on-site,' the reviewer will issue an RFI.
Can I do a hurricane retrofit myself, or do I need a licensed contractor?
You can do the work yourself IF you are the owner and occupy the home as your primary residence (owner-builder exemption under Florida Statutes 489.103(7)). However, you still need to pull permits from the City of Orlando and pass inspections. For specialized work like structural engineering (roof-to-wall straps, garage-door bracing), you must hire a licensed engineer to design the retrofit; installation can be DIY, but the inspector will still review the engineer's calcs. For window and shutter installation, DIY is generally acceptable, but the City of Orlando's inspector will verify that the work meets the manufacturer's installation sequence and the code. If your inspector finds non-compliant installation, you'll have to redo it—so hire a contractor if you're unsure.
How long does the City of Orlando's permit review take for a hurricane retrofit?
Typical timeline: 2–3 weeks for plan review (non-expedited). The reviewer checks shutter specs, window certifications, roof-strap details, and secondary water barrier. If your plan is incomplete (missing shutter label, no engineer stamp, etc.), the reviewer will issue a Request for Information (RFI) and you'll have 2 weeks to resubmit; this extends your timeline by 1–2 weeks. To speed things up, submit a complete, detailed plan with all certifications and lab reports upfront. Expedited review is sometimes available ($50–$100 extra fee) for 5–7 business-day turnaround, but plan reviews are not guaranteed to be fast—the City prioritizes structural safety over speed.
What is the My Safe Florida Home program, and how does it help with hurricane retrofits?
My Safe Florida Home is a state grant program that rebates $2,000–$10,000 of retrofit costs for owner-occupied homes that meet income thresholds (roughly $35,000–$65,000 household income for Orange County). To qualify, you must apply BEFORE you start work, use an approved contractor (the state maintains a list), and complete the retrofit to state standards (which align with FBC Chapter 11 Existing Building). After final permit inspection, the state verifies your retrofit and releases the grant funds. The City of Orlando's Building Department can point you toward the state program and approved contractor list. Grants typically pay out within 30–60 days of approval.
Will my insurance company give me a discount if I do a hurricane retrofit?
Yes, if you pull an OIR-B1-1802 wind-mitigation inspection form after your retrofit is complete and final-inspected. The form documents roof-to-wall connections, secondary water barrier, roof shape, and garage-door opening protection; insurers use this form to re-rate your premium and apply discounts of 15–35% on wind-and-hail coverage. You must hire a licensed wind-mitigation inspector ($150–$300) to pull the form; the City of Orlando's Building Inspector will not do this automatically. Without the OIR-B1-1802 form, your insurer has no proof of the retrofit and will not apply the discount—so this form is essential to realizing your investment.
What happens if my home is in a historic district (like Thornton Park) and I want to do a hurricane retrofit?
If your home is in a historic district, the City of Orlando's Historic Preservation Board must review and approve your retrofit design before the Building Department will issue a permit. This adds 4–6 weeks to your timeline. Historic Preservation typically focuses on exterior visibility (e.g., garage doors, shutters, windows visible from the street) and may require designs that match the architectural character of the district. Contact the Historic Preservation Office early in your planning to understand design guidelines; they can save you weeks of back-and-forth if you understand the aesthetic requirements upfront.
If I do a hurricane retrofit now, will I still need to do one if I renovate or re-roof later?
Probably not. A well-done hurricane retrofit (roof-to-wall straps, secondary water barrier, impact-rated windows, garage-door bracing) should last 15–25 years or longer. When you re-roof, you'll need to replace the secondary water barrier as part of the re-roofing project, but the straps will likely remain in place. If you later renovate (e.g., kitchen remodel, adding a room), the City of Orlando's Building Department may allow you to 'grandfather' the retrofit components into the new work, meaning you won't have to re-inspect every strap or shutter. However, any NEW components added during renovation (e.g., a new window opening, a new deck) will need to meet current HVHZ code. Ask the Building Department in writing if you're unsure whether existing retrofit components can be grandfathered.
What is the most common reason the City of Orlando rejects a hurricane retrofit permit application?
The most common rejection is missing or incomplete shutter specification—shutters without a TAS 201/202/203 or ASTM E1886 certification label, or shutters that are labeled but the cert number is not referenced in the plan. The second most common is roof-to-wall strap spacing not specified (e.g., 'straps per engineer' instead of 'H2.5A straps at 24 inches on center'). The third is secondary water barrier specified as 'felt paper' instead of peel-and-stick synthetic (felt is no longer compliant for HVHZ). Submit a complete plan with all product cert labels, fastener specs, and secondary barrier type clearly identified on the first submittal to avoid RFI delays.