Research by DoINeedAPermit Research Team · Updated May 2026
The Short Answer
Every hurricane retrofit component—roof-to-wall straps, secondary water barrier, hurricane shutters, impact windows, garage-door bracing—requires a City of Orlando permit and plan review. You'll also need a licensed wind-mitigation inspector to pull the insurance-discount form (OIR-B1-1802) after final inspection, which often unlocks 15–35% annual premium savings.
Orlando is in an HVHZ (High Velocity Hurricane Zone) under Florida Building Code 8th Edition, which means the City of Orlando Building Department enforces stricter wind-load attachment standards than most of the country—specifically FBC R301.2.1.1 and local amendments that require engineered shutter specs (TAS 201 or equivalent lab testing), fastener pull-out documentation, and secondary water barrier installation under roof sheathing. Unlike some Florida cities that allow over-the-counter wind-retrofit permits (quick 1–2 day turnaround), Orlando's Building Department requires full plan review for roof-to-wall connections—typically 2–3 weeks—because the city uses a phased inspection model: pre-retrofit inspection, in-progress framing inspection (to verify strap placement), sheathing inspection (to confirm secondary water barrier under starter course), and final inspection. What sets Orlando apart is the city's integration with the My Safe Florida Home program, which offers $2,000–$10,000 grants to homeowners who complete retrofits; the city's permit office works directly with the state program to cross-check approved contractor lists and ensure retrofit specs meet state grant eligibility. Additionally, Orlando's sandy-soil and limestone-karst conditions mean foundation-level wind loads are calculated differently than in clay-soil jurisdictions (Panhandle), so your engineer's report must specify soil-class and depth for pier-and-beam tie-downs—a detail that trips up many DIY applicants.

What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)

Orlando hurricane retrofit permits — the key details

Orlando sits in HVHZ (High Velocity Hurricane Zone) per the Florida Building Code 8th Edition, which applies 150 mph three-second gust wind speeds as the design baseline for all retrofit components. The City of Orlando Building Department enforces FBC R301.2.1.1, which mandates that every roof-to-wall connection use certified straps (Simpson Strong-Tie H2.5A or equivalent) installed at every rafter or truss—spacing no greater than 24 inches—with fasteners driven into rim board or band board rated for 500+ pound pull-out in laboratory tests. Your engineer's plan must call out the sheathing thickness (typically 7/16" CDX minimum for 24" o.c. framing), fastener type and size (usually 10d or 12d galvanized nails, or structural screws), and the exact truss/rafter spacing. The secondary water barrier—essentially a peel-and-stick membrane under the roof shingle starter course—is not optional; it's required by FBC R905.2.7 for any roof deck that doesn't have continuous solid sheathing, and inspectors will climb the roof during final inspection to verify it's installed. Many homeowners skip this detail thinking it's cosmetic; it's not—it's the second line of defense against wind-driven rain, and missing it is the #1 reason for permit rejection in Orlando.

Hurricane shutters—whether roll-down, accordion, or panel—must be labeled by an HVHZ-approved testing lab (TAS 201 for accordion shutters, TAS 202 for panel shutters, TAS 203 for roll-down) or carry an equivalent ASTM E1886/E1996 certification. Generic 'storm-rated' shutters from box stores do NOT meet Orlando code; the label must be visible on the product and referenced in your plan. The City of Orlando's plan review includes a shutter-spec check; if your submittal lists a shutter model without HVHZ certification, the reviewer will reject it with a Request for Information (RFI), delaying your permit by 1–2 weeks. Impact-rated windows (tempered glass, laminate, or polycarbonate meeting ASTM E1886) are similarly labeled—the certification sticker must be present on every window, and your installer must photograph and document installation per the manufacturer's sequence. Garage-door bracing (if you're upgrading to an impact-rated door or adding braces to an existing door) requires an engineer's calculation stamped by a Florida PE; the braces must be rated for the design wind speed (150 mph for Orlando HVHZ), and the permit reviewer will check that the engineer's calcs reference the door model, brace type, and anchor points.

The secondary water barrier is where gray area compliance often stumbles. Some contractors interpret 'secondary water barrier' as felt paper under shingles; FBC requires peel-and-stick synthetic underlayment (type II, Class H per ASTM D226) running the full length of the roof, with a 6-inch overlap at seams and sealed with roof cement. If your roof is a pre-existing older asphalt shingle with a single layer of felt, the City of Orlando will require you to strip and re-roof with new sheathing inspection checkpoints. Alternatively, if the existing roof is in good condition and you're only doing a retrofit (no roof replacement), you may be able to install the secondary barrier by lifting shingles along the eaves and working the membrane up underneath—this is more labor-intensive but avoids a full roof tearoff. Your plan must specify the method; if it's unclear, the inspector will issue a Request for Clarification, so be explicit upfront.

The My Safe Florida Home program is critical to understand: if you complete a retrofit that meets FBC Existing Building standards (FBC Chapter 11), you're eligible for a state grant of $2,000–$10,000 (the amount depends on your income level and retrofit scope). The City of Orlando Building Department maintains a list of approved contractors and pre-qualified retrofit scopes; the grant is not a tax credit—it's a direct rebate paid after inspection and approval. To unlock the grant, you must have a licensed wind-mitigation inspector complete the OIR-B1-1802 form (the 'Four-Point Inspection' or 'Wind Mitigation Inspection' form) after your final permit inspection. This form must be signed by the inspector and notarized; it documents roof shape, secondary water barrier, roof-to-wall connections, and garage-door opening protection. The insurance discount tied to this form typically ranges from 15–35% annually—for a homeowner paying $1,500/year in wind-and-hail coverage, that's $225–$525/year in savings, which pays back the retrofit cost in 3–5 years. Do not skip pulling this form; it's the difference between a 'completed project' and an 'investment that pays for itself.'

Orlando's sandy, limestone-rich soils and high water table mean that foundation-level wind calculations differ from inland Florida. If your retrofit includes tie-downs for a pier-and-beam foundation (common in older Orlando homes), your engineer must specify soil class (typically SP—poorly graded sand, or SC—sandy clay in Orlando), boring depth, and anchor depth rated for cyclical tension loads. The City of Orlando Building Department's geotechnical reviewer will cross-check these specs against local boring data (available through the Florida Geological Survey). Additionally, Orlando's storm-surge risk is lower than Miami or Tampa (you're 40 miles inland), but the city's local amendments to the FBC still require HVHZ compliance because the 150 mph design wind speed applies citywide. Finally, plan on 2–4 weeks for permit review (not 2–3 days); Orlando's Building Department does not offer 'quick-check' permits for retrofits—all plans undergo full review by a structural reviewer and a building official. Budget for 2–3 site visits by the inspector: pre-retrofit (to photograph existing conditions), in-progress (to verify strap installation and secondary barrier under eaves), and final (to sign off on all components and ensure insurance-inspection readiness).

Three Orlando wind / hurricane retrofit scenarios

Scenario A
Roof-to-wall strap retrofit on 1970s concrete-block home in Winter Park, Orlando — no roof replacement
You own a single-story 1,800-square-foot concrete-block home in Winter Park (Orlando neighborhood) with asphalt shingles installed circa 1995—still in fair condition. You hire an engineer to design roof-to-wall connections (Simpson Strong-Tie H2.5A straps, 24-inch spacing) that will be installed into the concrete-block rim board with epoxy anchors (per ACI 355). The City of Orlando Building Department requires: (1) a structural plan showing strap placement, concrete-block strength calcs, and epoxy-anchor detail; (2) secondary water barrier spec—you'll need to lift shingles along the eaves (bottom 3 feet of roof) and staple peel-and-stick underlayment underneath, then nail shingles back down; (3) pre-retrofit inspection photo showing existing roof condition and sheathing type; (4) in-progress inspection when straps are fastened but before shingles are reinstalled (so inspector can see fastener location and penetration); (5) final inspection after shingles are replaced. Permit cost: $300–$500 (based on retrofit scope, roughly 1.5–2% of labor + material estimate). Timeline: 3 weeks for plan review, 1 week for contractor scheduling, 2–3 days for installation, 1 final inspection. After final inspection, hire a licensed wind-mitigation inspector ($150–$300) to pull the OIR-B1-1802 form; this unlocks 20–25% insurance discount ($300–$375/year on typical $1,500 annual wind-hail premium). If you're income-eligible, apply for My Safe Florida Home grant ($2,000–$5,000) through the state program; City of Orlando will cross-reference your permit to verify retrofit scope meets state standards. Total retrofit cost: $8,000–$15,000 (labor, straps, shingles, engineering, permits, wind-mit inspection); payback from insurance savings: 3–4 years.
Permit required | Plan review 3 weeks | Strap spec: H2.5A, epoxy anchors, 24-inch spacing | Secondary barrier required (peel-and-stick under eaves) | Final + wind-mit inspection required | OIR-B1-1802 form unlocks 20–25% insurance discount | My Safe Florida Home grant eligible ($2,000–$5,000) | Total retrofit: $8,000–$15,000
Scenario B
Impact-rated window and accordion shutter retrofit on 1980s wood-frame home in downtown Orlando — homeowner-owner-builder
You own a 2-story wood-frame home (2x4 studs, 16-inch spacing) in downtown Orlando built in 1982. You want to replace the existing single-pane aluminum-frame windows with impact-rated windows (tempered-glass or laminated units rated ASTM E1886) and install motorized accordion shutters on the south and west facades (20 windows total). Since you plan to do the work yourself (owner-builder), you're allowed under Florida Statutes 489.103(7) IF you own the home and occupy it as primary residence; however, you still need City of Orlando permits for each window and shutter installation. The City of Orlando will require: (1) window schedule showing model number, HVHZ certification label, ASTM E1886 rating, and installation detail (sill pan, head flashing, perimeter sealant); (2) shutter spec sheet with TAS 202 (accordion) certification label and fastener detail (anchor bolts to window frame or lintel, 16-inch max spacing); (3) structural review if anchoring to lintel (to verify lintel can handle shutter reaction loads at 150 mph); (4) installation sequence photos during and after. Because you're owner-builder, the City of Orlando will not allow a contractor license exception—you must still obtain each window permit and shutter permit separately (roughly $50–$100 per opening). Plan review: 2–3 weeks (slightly longer because non-contractor applications get extra scrutiny). Installation inspection: in-progress (to verify flashing and sealant before drywall closure) and final (to sign off windows and test shutter operation). Cost: $25–$40 per window permit (20 windows = $500–$800), plus permit for accordion shutter system ($150–$300). Your total retrofit cost: $12,000–$20,000 (windows + shutters + installation labor); insurance discount from OIR-B1-1802 form (pulled after final): 15–25% ($225–$375/year). Timeline: 4–5 weeks total (plan review + scheduling + install + final). Key risk: if the City of Orlando's plan reviewer flags your installation detail as non-compliant (e.g., insufficient sealant at head flashing, or shutter anchors not rated for 150 mph), you'll get an RFI and have 2 weeks to resubmit; during this time, work must stop. Mitigation: have a consultant review your install plan before you pull the permit.
Permit required | Owner-builder allowed (primary residence only) | Window permits: $25–$40 each (20 windows = $500–$800) | Shutter permits: $150–$300 | TAS 202 accordion shutter label required | ASTM E1886 window certification required | Plan review 2–3 weeks | Final inspection required | OIR-B1-1802 wind-mit form unlocks 15–25% discount | My Safe Florida Home grant NOT available (owner-builder retrofits may not qualify; verify state program) | Total retrofit: $12,000–$20,000
Scenario C
Garage-door opening protection (impact-rated door + hurricane bracing) on 1990s concrete-block home in Thornton Park, Orlando
You own a 1-story concrete-block home in Thornton Park (historic district within Orlando) with a single 16-foot-wide garage door opening. The existing garage door is a standard sectional aluminum door, not rated for high winds. You plan to install an impact-rated garage door (aluminum with laminated polycarbonate or fiberglass panels, rated for 150 mph per ASTM E1886) and add diagonal bracing to the opening. However, because Thornton Park is a designated historic district, the City of Orlando's Historic Preservation Board must review the garage-door design for architectural compatibility before the Building Department can issue a permit. This adds 4–6 weeks to your timeline. Once Historic Preservation approves, you'll need: (1) a structural engineer's stamped design for the new garage door and bracing system, specifying the door model, brace material (typically angle steel or rigid steel frame), anchor bolts, and wind-load calculations for 150 mph design speed; (2) manufacturer installation instructions and HVHZ certification label for the door; (3) detail drawings showing brace anchor points to the concrete-block header and side jambs, with epoxy-anchor or bolt specification; (4) Building Department plan review (2 weeks after Historic Preservation approval); (5) installation inspection (pre-installation to verify header is sound, in-progress to verify brace placement and anchor installation, final to test door operation and confirm bracing is secure). The permit cost is $250–$400 (higher because of engineering requirement and historic-district overlay). Your total retrofit cost: $4,000–$8,000 (door + bracing + engineering + installation + permits); insurance discount from OIR-B1-1802: 5–10% ($75–$150/year, lower than full-retrofit because you're only protecting one opening). Timeline: 8–10 weeks (Historic Preservation review 4–6 weeks, Building Department plan review 2 weeks, installation 2–3 days, inspection 1 week). Key risk: Historic Preservation may require the door to match the existing aluminum color or finish, which could limit your material choices or force a more expensive custom-order door. Mitigation: contact Historic Preservation early (before design) to ask about garage-door design guidelines; they have a fact sheet on Historic Preservation-approved door suppliers.
Permit required | Historic Preservation Board review required (Thornton Park overlay) | Timeline: 8–10 weeks (Historic Preservation + Building review) | Structural engineering required | Impact-rated door + ASTM E1886 label required | Bracing design must specify 150 mph wind speed | Epoxy anchors or bolts to concrete block | Final inspection required | OIR-B1-1802 wind-mit form unlocks 5–10% insurance discount | My Safe Florida Home grant eligible if income-qualified | Total retrofit: $4,000–$8,000

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Orlando's HVHZ status and what it means for retrofit specs

Orlando is classified as HVHZ (High Velocity Hurricane Zone) under the Florida Building Code 8th Edition, which applies a 150 mph three-second gust design wind speed to all structural and non-structural attachments. This is the same standard that applies to coastal Miami and Tampa, even though Orlando is 40 miles inland—the classification is based on historical hurricane tracks and forward-speed modeling, not proximity to the coast. The implication for homeowners is that every retrofit component—shutter, window, roof strap, garage-door brace—must be lab-tested and certified for 150 mph conditions, not a lower 'basic' wind speed. A shutter labeled '120 mph rated' does not meet Orlando code and will be rejected during plan review.

The City of Orlando Building Department enforces HVHZ standards through the Florida Building Code Existing Building standard (FBC Chapter 11), which allows retrofits to be done without a full code upgrade as long as the retrofit components themselves meet current HVHZ standards. This is a critical distinction: you don't have to upgrade your entire house to 2023 code, only the specific items you're retrofitting. However, if your retrofit affects other systems (for example, if adding roof-to-wall straps requires removing sheathing and you discover the sheathing is inadequate), the inspector may require you to bring those systems up to code. To avoid scope creep, have your engineer scope the retrofit narrowly—for example, 'roof-to-wall strap installation only, no roof sheathing replacement' rather than 'roof retrofit, including replacement of any deficient sheathing.'

The 150 mph design speed flows through into fastener selection and testing documentation. When your engineer specifies a Simpson Strong-Tie H2.5A strap, that strap has been lab-tested by the manufacturer (and certified by the International Code Council) for 150 mph wind loads applied at multiple angles (in-plane, out-of-plane, etc.). The City of Orlando's reviewer will check that the strap is ICC-certified (not just 'Strong-Tie brand'—there are other Simpson products that don't meet HVHZ) and that the fasteners (typically 10d or 12d galvanized nails driven into rim board or rafter) have been tested for pull-out at the expected load. If your engineer specifies 'fasteners per manufacturer specification,' that's acceptable; if the plan says 'fasteners TBD on-site,' the reviewer will issue an RFI and delay your permit.

The OIR-B1-1802 wind-mitigation inspection and insurance savings

The OIR-B1-1802 form (Wind Mitigation Inspection Report) is the critical document that unlocks insurance discounts for hurricane retrofits—but it's not pulled automatically, and many homeowners skip it or don't understand how to obtain it. After your final permit inspection, you must hire a licensed wind-mitigation inspector (a Florida-licensed inspector or engineer who has completed the state's wind-mitigation training) to visit your home, verify the retrofit was done correctly, and complete the OIR-B1-1802 form. The form documents four key items: (1) roof shape (hip vs. gable—hip roofs are more wind-resistant and get a bigger discount); (2) roof-to-wall connections (presence and type of straps, fastener spacing); (3) secondary water barrier (presence and type of underlayment); (4) garage-door opening protection (impact-rated door, bracing, or shutters). The form must be notarized and submitted to your insurance company; only then will the discount be applied. Cost: $150–$300 for the wind-mitigation inspection; timeline: 1–2 weeks after final permit inspection. The discount itself varies by insurer but typically ranges from 15–35% on wind-and-hail coverage. For a homeowner paying $1,500/year in wind-hail, that's $225–$525/year in savings—a $8,000 retrofit paying back in 3–4 years through insurance savings alone.

A common mistake: assuming the City of Orlando's Building Inspector will automatically pull the OIR-B1-1802 form or that the form is included in the final permit inspection. It is not. The Building Inspector signs off that the work meets code; the wind-mitigation inspector signs off that the work qualifies for insurance discount (the standards are aligned but not identical). You must proactively hire the wind-mitigation inspector and ensure the form is submitted to your insurance company before you'll see the discount. Additionally, the form is not just a checklist—insurers use it to re-rate your premium, and some insurers may require a follow-up 'Roofing Certification' (OIR-B1-1726) if your roof is older than 20 years, adding another $50–$100 and 1-week delay. Budget for this cost and timeline upfront.

The My Safe Florida Home grant program is administered by the state (through the Florida Department of Financial Services) and is only available to homes that are owner-occupied and that meet income thresholds (varies by county; roughly $35,000–$65,000 household income for Orange County). If you qualify, the state will rebate $2,000–$10,000 of your retrofit cost after final inspection and OIR-B1-1802 form approval. However, you must apply for the grant BEFORE you start work; you cannot retrofit first and apply later. The City of Orlando's Building Department maintains a list of approved contractors and pre-approved retrofit scopes that meet grant eligibility; work with that list to avoid doing a retrofit that disqualifies you from the grant. If you're owner-builder, verify with the state program that owner-builder retrofits are eligible (some state programs exclude owner-builders).

City of Orlando Building Department
400 South Orange Avenue, Orlando, FL 32801
Phone: (407) 246-3550 (main) or (407) 246-3600 (Building Services) | https://ebiz.orlando.gov/OWF/
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM–5:00 PM (eastern time)

Common questions

Do I need a permit for hurricane shutters alone (no other retrofit)?

Yes. The City of Orlando Building Department requires a permit for any shutter installation, even if it's the only retrofit you're doing. The permit includes plan review (to verify TAS 202 or TAS 201 certification), installation inspection (to verify fastener spacing and window-frame anchoring), and final sign-off. Permit cost: $150–$300. Timeline: 2–3 weeks. Skipping the permit is common but risky—if a hurricane damages your home and the adjuster discovers unpermitted shutters, your insurance claim can be denied.

What is TAS 201 vs. TAS 202 vs. TAS 203, and why do shutters need these labels?

TAS (Dade County Test of Acceptance Specifications) is Miami-Dade's laboratory testing protocol for impact-resistant components; the standard is adopted statewide in Florida's HVHZ. TAS 201 is for accordion shutters; TAS 202 is for panel shutters; TAS 203 is for roll-down shutters. The label means the shutter has been lab-tested for 150 mph wind loads, water infiltration, and cyclic fatigue—ensuring it won't fail in a real hurricane. Shutters without a TAS or ASTM E1886 label will be rejected during the City of Orlando's plan review. Check the product spec sheet or ask the manufacturer for the label before you buy.

Do I need a secondary water barrier if I'm not replacing my roof?

Yes, if you're doing a roof-to-wall strap retrofit or any work that disturbs the roof sheathing or shingles. FBC R905.2.7 requires a secondary water barrier (peel-and-stick synthetic underlayment) under the starter course of shingles for HVHZ areas. If your existing roof is old felt paper, the City of Orlando will require replacement with the synthetic barrier. If your roof is relatively new and you're only installing straps (not replacing shingles), you can install the barrier by lifting the eaves shingles and sliding the membrane underneath—labor-intensive but avoids a full tear-off. Your plan must specify the method; if it says 'secondary barrier TBD on-site,' the reviewer will issue an RFI.

Can I do a hurricane retrofit myself, or do I need a licensed contractor?

You can do the work yourself IF you are the owner and occupy the home as your primary residence (owner-builder exemption under Florida Statutes 489.103(7)). However, you still need to pull permits from the City of Orlando and pass inspections. For specialized work like structural engineering (roof-to-wall straps, garage-door bracing), you must hire a licensed engineer to design the retrofit; installation can be DIY, but the inspector will still review the engineer's calcs. For window and shutter installation, DIY is generally acceptable, but the City of Orlando's inspector will verify that the work meets the manufacturer's installation sequence and the code. If your inspector finds non-compliant installation, you'll have to redo it—so hire a contractor if you're unsure.

How long does the City of Orlando's permit review take for a hurricane retrofit?

Typical timeline: 2–3 weeks for plan review (non-expedited). The reviewer checks shutter specs, window certifications, roof-strap details, and secondary water barrier. If your plan is incomplete (missing shutter label, no engineer stamp, etc.), the reviewer will issue a Request for Information (RFI) and you'll have 2 weeks to resubmit; this extends your timeline by 1–2 weeks. To speed things up, submit a complete, detailed plan with all certifications and lab reports upfront. Expedited review is sometimes available ($50–$100 extra fee) for 5–7 business-day turnaround, but plan reviews are not guaranteed to be fast—the City prioritizes structural safety over speed.

What is the My Safe Florida Home program, and how does it help with hurricane retrofits?

My Safe Florida Home is a state grant program that rebates $2,000–$10,000 of retrofit costs for owner-occupied homes that meet income thresholds (roughly $35,000–$65,000 household income for Orange County). To qualify, you must apply BEFORE you start work, use an approved contractor (the state maintains a list), and complete the retrofit to state standards (which align with FBC Chapter 11 Existing Building). After final permit inspection, the state verifies your retrofit and releases the grant funds. The City of Orlando's Building Department can point you toward the state program and approved contractor list. Grants typically pay out within 30–60 days of approval.

Will my insurance company give me a discount if I do a hurricane retrofit?

Yes, if you pull an OIR-B1-1802 wind-mitigation inspection form after your retrofit is complete and final-inspected. The form documents roof-to-wall connections, secondary water barrier, roof shape, and garage-door opening protection; insurers use this form to re-rate your premium and apply discounts of 15–35% on wind-and-hail coverage. You must hire a licensed wind-mitigation inspector ($150–$300) to pull the form; the City of Orlando's Building Inspector will not do this automatically. Without the OIR-B1-1802 form, your insurer has no proof of the retrofit and will not apply the discount—so this form is essential to realizing your investment.

What happens if my home is in a historic district (like Thornton Park) and I want to do a hurricane retrofit?

If your home is in a historic district, the City of Orlando's Historic Preservation Board must review and approve your retrofit design before the Building Department will issue a permit. This adds 4–6 weeks to your timeline. Historic Preservation typically focuses on exterior visibility (e.g., garage doors, shutters, windows visible from the street) and may require designs that match the architectural character of the district. Contact the Historic Preservation Office early in your planning to understand design guidelines; they can save you weeks of back-and-forth if you understand the aesthetic requirements upfront.

If I do a hurricane retrofit now, will I still need to do one if I renovate or re-roof later?

Probably not. A well-done hurricane retrofit (roof-to-wall straps, secondary water barrier, impact-rated windows, garage-door bracing) should last 15–25 years or longer. When you re-roof, you'll need to replace the secondary water barrier as part of the re-roofing project, but the straps will likely remain in place. If you later renovate (e.g., kitchen remodel, adding a room), the City of Orlando's Building Department may allow you to 'grandfather' the retrofit components into the new work, meaning you won't have to re-inspect every strap or shutter. However, any NEW components added during renovation (e.g., a new window opening, a new deck) will need to meet current HVHZ code. Ask the Building Department in writing if you're unsure whether existing retrofit components can be grandfathered.

What is the most common reason the City of Orlando rejects a hurricane retrofit permit application?

The most common rejection is missing or incomplete shutter specification—shutters without a TAS 201/202/203 or ASTM E1886 certification label, or shutters that are labeled but the cert number is not referenced in the plan. The second most common is roof-to-wall strap spacing not specified (e.g., 'straps per engineer' instead of 'H2.5A straps at 24 inches on center'). The third is secondary water barrier specified as 'felt paper' instead of peel-and-stick synthetic (felt is no longer compliant for HVHZ). Submit a complete plan with all product cert labels, fastener specs, and secondary barrier type clearly identified on the first submittal to avoid RFI delays.

Disclaimer: This guide is based on research conducted in May 2026 using publicly available sources. Always verify current wind / hurricane retrofit permit requirements with the City of Orlando Building Department before starting your project.