What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)
- Stop-work order plus $500–$1,500 fine if Burlingame Building Department catches unpermitted kitchen work; fines escalate if electrical/plumbing work is unlicensed.
- Insurance denial on kitchen damage claim if work was unpermitted—insurer may refuse to pay $50,000+ in water/fire damage from unpermitted plumbing or electrical.
- Forced removal of work at your cost (often 30–50% of remodel value) if discovered during home sale or refinance inspection; title company may refuse to close.
- Lender blocks refinance if appraisal flagged unpermitted kitchen—cash buyers may demand $20,000–$40,000 price reduction or walk away entirely.
Burlingame full kitchen remodel permits—the key details
Burlingame's Building Department treats kitchen remodels as three-permit projects: Building (structural/general), Plumbing (fixture relocation, drain/vent), and Electrical (new circuits, GFCI outlets, range hood wiring). You can file all three permits in a single application, but they are reviewed separately and inspected by three different trades. The Building Division enforces California Building Code Title 24 and interprets it locally—for example, any wall removal requires an engineer-stamped letter confirming non-load-bearing status, or structural engineering if load-bearing. The Plumbing Division requires a separate plumbing plan showing all fixture relocation, trap-arm sizing, vent routing, and cleanout access. The Electrical Division requires a floor plan showing all new circuits, GFCI outlets, dedicated appliance circuits (15-amp for disposal, 20-amp for dishwasher per NEC Article 210), and range-hood wiring. Plan review typically takes 3–5 business days for an initial review; if Burlingame issues a request for information (RFI), you have 2 weeks to resubmit or the permit application is abandoned. Resubmissions are common if range-hood termination, load-bearing wall engineering, or GFCI spacing details are missing or unclear.
Electrical scope in a Burlingame kitchen remodel must comply with NEC Article 210 (branch circuits) and NEC Article 422 (appliances). Specifically, you need two 20-amp small-appliance branch circuits (one for counter receptacles, one for refrigerator—though refrigerator can share if on a 20-amp circuit), a dedicated 20-amp circuit for the dishwasher, a dedicated circuit for the disposal (15 or 20 amp), and a dedicated 240-volt circuit for the electric range (or 120-volt if gas). Every counter receptacle must be GFCI-protected, spaced no more than 48 inches apart, and within 24 inches of the sink edge on either side. Under California Building Code Section 210.11(C)(1), at least one receptacle must be within 36 inches of the sink (typically on the island if present). If you're adding under-cabinet lighting, recessed can lights, or a dimmed island pendant, those count as separate circuits and must be shown on the electrical plan. Range-hood wiring must be on a dedicated 120-volt circuit (15 or 20 amp) with an accessible disconnect switch within 3 feet of the hood; if the hood is vented to the exterior (ductwork cuts through wall), Burlingame requires the duct cap detail on the exterior elevation to confirm termination is 12 inches or more above roof/grade. Hardwired smoke and CO detectors near the kitchen also require circuits shown on the plan—do not wire them to the kitchen circuits.
Plumbing relocation in a Burlingame kitchen must follow California Building Code Chapter 42 and the San Mateo County Environmental Health standards. If you're moving the sink location, the drain must be sized per Table 422.1 (typically 1.5 inches for kitchen sink), trap-arm length cannot exceed 2.5 times the fixture drain diameter (3.75 inches for a 1.5-inch trap), and the trap vent must be sized per Table 422.1 and rise above the flood rim of the sink without excessive horizontal runs. Any new drain must route to the main stack with proper slope (1/4 inch per foot minimum, 1/2 inch per foot maximum per IRC P2703.2). If you're moving a dishwasher, the drain stub must rise above the sink rim to prevent backflow (or install a backflow preventer). Gas line changes (relocated cooktop, new dual-fuel range) require a separate plumbing permit; the line must be sized per Table 402.4, run in hard pipe (no flex between appliance and shut-off valve), include a shut-off valve within 6 feet of the appliance, and terminate in a brass or stainless steel quick-disconnect within 36 inches of the appliance. Burlingame plumbing inspector will physically verify trap clearances, vent termination, slope, and gas shut-off access at rough-in and final inspections.
Load-bearing wall removal is one of the highest-risk aspects of a Burlingame kitchen remodel and most commonly triggers permit rejections or delays. Any wall running perpendicular to floor joists is presumed load-bearing unless proven otherwise by a licensed structural engineer (California Business & Professions Code § 6701). If you're removing a wall, you must submit an engineer-stamped structural letter or full design showing beam size, support columns, and foundation details. Burlingame's Structural Approval office (part of Building Division) will review this engineer's letter independently—expect 1–2 weeks for structural review after the initial building permit review. The engineer will typically specify a steel or engineered-wood beam (size varies by load, span, and support conditions—common kitchen beams are 8x12 engineered lumber or 3/4-inch plywood beam for 12–16-foot spans), bearing points (posts or pockets in exterior walls or columns), and temporary support during construction. The inspector will require temporary bracing during demo and will inspect the beam installation, bearing, and permanent support before approving rough-framing. Skipping the engineer letter or submitting incomplete structural drawings will result in an RFI or outright rejection—Burlingame does not allow engineer-less wall removal even for single-story homes.
Timeline and inspection sequence for a Burlingame kitchen remodel typically runs 6–10 weeks from permit issuance to final sign-off, assuming no RFIs or re-inspections. After permit issuance, you can begin demolition immediately, but you must call for a rough-framing inspection (if walls are moved) before closing walls. The Electrical Division will inspect rough electrical (all boxes, conduit, and wire runs exposed) before drywall. The Plumbing Division will inspect rough plumbing (all drains, vents, and water lines exposed, trap-arms and vent slope visible) before drywall. If load-bearing walls are involved, the Structural inspector must sign off on temporary bracing and the beam installation before framing is closed. After drywall and trim, Burlingame requires a drywall inspection to verify no mechanical or electrical equipment is covered, followed by final inspections: Final Electrical (GFCI outlets tested, range-hood disconnect accessible), Final Plumbing (all fixtures connected, drains and vents functional), and Final Building (wall assemblies complete, permits closed). If you miss any inspection window, the inspector can place a hold on the permit until rework is visible. Plan for 2–3 weeks of plan review, then 4–6 weeks of construction with inspections spaced roughly 7–10 days apart.
Three Burlingame kitchen remodel (full) scenarios
GFCI and electrical safety in Burlingame kitchens: what the inspector is looking for
Burlingame's electrical inspector will verify every counter receptacle is GFCI-protected and spaced per NEC Article 210. In practice, this means your floor plan must show every outlet location, and you must list them as 'GFCI' on the plan or on a schedule. The spacing rule is: no point on a counter surface can be more than 48 inches from a receptacle, measured horizontally along the countertop line. If you have a 60-inch island, you need at least two outlets (one at 24 inches, one at 55 inches, for example). Within 24 inches of the sink on either side, at least one outlet must exist. If your sink is in an island, you must have an outlet within 36 inches of the sink in some direction (often one on each side of the island).
GFCI protection can be provided by installing a GFCI outlet at each location, or by installing a GFCI breaker in the panel that protects the entire circuit. Burlingame inspectors prefer individual GFCI outlets because they are testable at the outlet (by pressing the Test/Reset buttons), whereas GFCI breakers are harder to test in the field. If you choose GFCI breakers, the inspector will ask you to test them at final inspection. Under-cabinet lighting must be on a separate circuit, not on a 20-amp small-appliance circuit—this is a common rejection. If you want dimmer switches, they must be rated for LED if you're using LED bulbs, and dimmers cannot be used on circuits with dishwashers or garbage disposals. All of this must be shown on the electrical plan or a one-line diagram before the permit is issued.
One hidden pitfall in Burlingame: if you're replacing a kitchen in a pre-1978 home and the existing electrical system has any aluminum wiring (common in 1960s–1970s homes), the inspector may flag this as a concern and recommend having a licensed electrician evaluate the panel. Aluminum wiring poses a fire risk if not properly terminated. If the panel is aluminum, you may be required to hire an electrician to install CO/ALR (copper-only/aluminum-rated) outlets at any existing outlets or ensure all connections are properly rated. This is beyond the scope of the kitchen remodel but Burlingame inspectors sometimes note it. Confirm your existing panel type during the pre-permit site visit.
Pre-1978 kitchens in Burlingame: lead hazard disclosure and asbestos avoidance
If your Burlingame home was built before 1978, federal law (Title X, 42 U.S.C. § 4852d) requires you to provide a Lead-Based Paint Disclosure to the contractor and any occupants before work begins. This is true even if you're not selling—if anyone else (tenant, contractor, their family) will be present during work, you must disclose. The disclosure includes the EPA form and any lead inspection or risk assessment results you have. If you've already had a lead inspection and it shows lead paint present, note that on the form. If you haven't had an inspection, check the 'not known' box. Contractors working in pre-1978 homes are required to use lead-safe work practices (contain dust with plastic sheeting, wet-clean surfaces, HEPA-filter vacuums) unless the EPA's Renovation, Repair, and Painting (RRP) Rule exempts the work. Kitchen cabinetry and countertop installation are generally exempt from RRP if you're not disturbing painted surfaces; however, if you're demo-ing old cabinets and the paint is lead-based, the demo is RRP-regulated and must be done by an RRP-certified contractor. Many Burlingame homeowners overlook this requirement and proceed with unlicensed demo crews, which violates federal law and exposes the homeowner to liability if lead dust contaminates the home.
Asbestos is a secondary concern in Burlingame kitchens built before 1980. Vinyl flooring, mastic (adhesive), and old sealants around countertops may contain asbestos. If you're removing old flooring or countertops and suspect asbestos (material is 30+ years old), you can either: (1) presume it contains asbestos and use an asbestos-trained contractor to remove it, or (2) hire an industrial hygienist to sample the material (roughly $200–$400 per sample). Burlingame Building Department does not require an asbestos survey or abatement report for kitchen remodels, but your contractor insurance may require it. When in doubt, treat suspected material as asbestos—the cost of testing is minimal compared to the liability of disturbing asbestos-containing material without proper containment. If asbestos is confirmed, hire a licensed asbestos abatement contractor (separate from your general contractor) to remove it under containment—this is not a DIY project and Burlingame inspectors will not sign off on kitchen final until any asbestos-disturbing demo is completed under proper protocols.
1355 Primrose Road, Burlingame, CA 94010 (or contact City Hall main line for current address)
Phone: (650) 558-7600 (main City Hall) — ask for Building Department | https://www.burlingame.org (search 'permit' or 'online services' for permit portal; Burlingame uses an online submission system for building permits)
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM–5:00 PM (verify holiday closures on city website)
Common questions
Do I need a permit if I'm just replacing my kitchen sink and faucet in place?
No. Replacing the faucet and aerator on an existing sink in the same location is cosmetic maintenance and does not require a permit. However, if you're moving the sink to a new location, relocating the drain or water lines, or moving supply lines more than a few feet, a plumbing permit is required. Burlingame inspectors will want to verify the new drain meets trap-arm and vent requirements if it's relocated.
Can I install a new gas range without a permit if the gas line is already in the wall?
It depends. If the gas line stub is already within 36 inches of the range location and the appliance is the same capacity (BTU), you typically do not need a permit. However, if you're relocating the stub, adding a new shut-off valve, or installing a larger capacity range, a plumbing permit (gas line permit) is required. Burlingame requires gas appliance connections to be inspected by the San Mateo County Health Department or a licensed plumber under permit; do not DIY a gas connection.
How much do kitchen permits typically cost in Burlingame?
Permit fees vary by project scope and total cost. A full kitchen remodel (walls moved, appliances added, full electrical/plumbing scope) typically runs $500–$1,500 in combined permit fees (Building $200–$400, Plumbing $150–$300, Electrical $150–$300). Cosmetic-only work is exempt and costs $0. Burlingame calculates fees as a percentage of project valuation, typically 1.5–2% for Building, 1.5% for Plumbing, and 1.5% for Electrical. Confirm exact fees with the Building Department at intake.
Do I need separate permits for the kitchen and a bathroom remodel in the same house?
Yes. Each trade permit (Building, Plumbing, Electrical) covers the entire project scope, but if you're doing kitchen and bathroom work, Burlingame will process them as a single Building permit and combined Plumbing and Electrical permits (you don't duplicate fees). Provide floor plans for both spaces and identify fixtures, circuits, drains, and vents for each. This simplifies the process and speeds plan review.
What if the inspector finds unpermitted work in my kitchen from a previous owner?
Burlingame Building Department may ask you to bring the work up to code, or may order it removed and replaced. If you discover unpermitted work (e.g., unlicensed electrical or plumbing) before it's flagged by an inspector, you can file a 'Certificate of Compliance' or 'Request for Inspection' with the Building Department to have the work inspected and brought into compliance. The cost to correct unpermitted work is often higher than the cost of the original permit would have been. Disclose any prior unpermitted work to contractors and the Building Department upfront to avoid stop-work orders and fines.
How long is a Burlingame building permit valid, and what happens if I don't start work?
Burlingame building permits are typically valid for 180 days from issuance (six months). If you don't start work within that period, you must request an extension from the Building Department (usually free, but the permit must be re-reviewed if code changes occur). If the permit expires without work starting, you must re-apply and re-pay permit fees. If work starts but is not completed within 180 days, you can request extensions; the Building Department will grant reasonable extensions (typically up to one year total from issuance). Plan your project timeline accordingly.
Do I need a licensed contractor to pull a kitchen permit in Burlingame, or can I pull it myself as owner-builder?
California Business & Professions Code Section 7044 allows owner-builders to pull permits for their own residential property. However, you must hire licensed contractors for electrical and plumbing work in Burlingame kitchens—you cannot do this work yourself, even as owner-builder. You can do framing, drywall, painting, and other non-trade work yourself. When you pull a permit as owner-builder, provide a signed declaration on the permit application stating you are the property owner and will do non-licensed work. Licensed electrical and plumbing contractors must pull their own state licenses and sign off on their trades on the permit.
What happens at the final inspection for a kitchen remodel in Burlingame?
The final inspection is three-pronged: Final Building (inspector verifies wall assemblies are complete, no mechanical/electrical equipment is exposed, permits are closed), Final Plumbing (inspector tests drains, checks trap-arm clearances, verifies vent termination outside, tests shut-off valves), and Final Electrical (inspector tests all GFCI outlets with the Test button, verifies dedicated circuits, checks range-hood disconnect switch, confirms proper grounding at outlets and fixtures). All three inspectors must sign off before Burlingame will issue a Certificate of Occupancy or permit closure. If any inspector finds code violations, they will issue a correction notice and schedule a re-inspection (typically 3–5 business days later).
Are island kitchens treated differently for electrical outlets in Burlingame?
Yes. Island countertops are subject to the same GFCI and spacing rules as linear counters (48-inch maximum spacing, GFCI protection required), but they must also have at least one receptacle positioned to allow a wet bar or snack-prep use. Burlingame inspectors typically require at least one outlet on each long side of an island if the island is greater than 48 inches, to ensure no point on the island is more than 48 inches from an outlet. Island outlets are often mounted at the base of the island (in the toe-kick area, with protective covers) or within 12 inches of the countertop edge. Confirm island outlet locations on your electrical plan before submission.
What is the difference between a kitchen remodel that requires a permit and one that doesn't?
The simple test: if any of the following apply, you need a permit: walls are moved or removed, plumbing fixtures (sink, dishwasher) are relocated, new electrical circuits are added (for range hood, dishwasher, disposal, cooktop, dedicated 240V for electric range), gas lines are modified, range hood is vented to the exterior (requires ductwork), or window/door openings are changed. If you're only replacing cabinets, counters, appliances on existing circuits, paint, and flooring—no permit. Burlingame inspectors will sometimes ask whether work includes electrical or plumbing changes during the pre-permit consultation; be honest about the scope to avoid unpermitted work later.