What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)
- Stop-work orders in Concord carry fines of $100 to $500 per day; unpermitted work often triggers a full re-inspection and double permit fees ($400–$1,600 total).
- Insurance claims on unpermitted bathroom work are frequently denied, leaving you liable for injury, water damage, or mold remediation costs ($5,000–$50,000+).
- New Hampshire's Residential Property Disclosure Act requires you to disclose unpermitted work to buyers; failure to do so can expose you to breach-of-contract lawsuits and forced remediation at your cost.
- Lenders and appraisers will flag unpermitted bathroom work during refinance or sale; you may be forced to remove new fixtures or re-pull permits retroactively, adding months and thousands to the timeline.
Concord full bathroom remodel permits — the key details
In Concord, a 'full bathroom remodel' triggering permit requirements is defined by scope: any work that relocates a plumbing fixture (toilet, sink, tub, or shower), adds or modifies drainage lines, changes electrical service to the bathroom, or alters the waterproofing assembly (such as converting a tub to a walk-in shower) requires a building permit plus separate plumbing and electrical permits. The City of Concord Building Department enforces the 2015 International Building Code (IBC) and the 2015 International Residential Code (IRC), which New Hampshire adopted statewide and has not significantly overridden at the municipal level. Concord's Building Department reviews plans for compliance with IRC P2706 (plumbing drainage and vent sizing), IRC E3902 (GFCI and AFCI circuits in bathrooms), IRC M1505 (exhaust fan ventilation and duct termination), and IRC R702.4.2 (waterproofing for tub and shower enclosures). What makes Concord distinct from smaller New Hampshire towns is its online permit portal: homeowners and contractors can file applications electronically, upload drawings, and receive plan-review comments within 2 to 3 weeks — faster than towns that require in-person submission and phone-call follow-ups. Concord also maintains a dedicated plumbing and electrical inspection queue, so you're less likely to wait weeks between rough and final inspections.
Plumbing permit specifics in Concord: if you're relocating a toilet, sink, or shower, your plumber must size the drainage lines to IRC P2706 requirements and ensure trap-arm length does not exceed the maximum (typically 30 inches from the trap to the vent). The city's inspectors are particularly strict about shower and tub waterproofing assemblies — you must specify in your permit application whether you're using cement board + liquid membrane, pre-formed shower pans, or tile board, and the inspector will verify at rough-in and again at final. Any tub-to-shower conversion must include a new pressure-balanced or thermostatic mixing valve (IRC P2708) to prevent scalding; inspectors will ask to see the valve spec sheet. Exhaust fans must be ducted to the exterior (not into the attic), with duct termination shown on your electrical or mechanical plan; Concord inspectors routinely cite missing or incorrect duct termination details, so confirm this detail before plan review. If you're moving a toilet location, you'll need a separate water-line rough-in inspection and may need to reroute the supply line through walls or under floors — Concord's Building Department will flag any supply-line route that doesn't meet IRC M2101 (minimum slope, support, and freeze-protection in zone 6A).
Electrical permit specifics for Concord bathroom remodels: any new circuit added to the bathroom must be protected by a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlet or breaker (per NEC Article 210.8, adopted into the IRC as E3902.1). All outlets within 6 feet of a sink, tub, or shower must be GFCI-protected, and all 20-amp circuits in the bathroom must also be arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI)-protected per E3902.2. Concord's electrical inspector will require a one-line diagram showing the circuit distribution, the breaker size, and the load calculation; many homeowners and contractors forget to include this, causing plan-review rejections. Lighting and ventilation circuits are often on a separate AFCI breaker, and mixing lighting and outlets on a single 20-amp circuit is allowed only if the circuit is AFCI-protected. If you're upgrading from a 60-amp to an 100-amp or 200-amp service (rare in a bathroom remodel but possible if the home is very old), you'll need a main electrical permit as well, which triggers a utility inspection and may require a service-entrance upgrade — this adds $2,000–$8,000 to the cost.
Concord's permit fees for a full bathroom remodel typically range from $300 to $800, depending on the estimated valuation of the work. The city calculates fees as a percentage of the estimated project cost: generally 1.5% to 2% of the total bid. A bathroom remodel with fixture relocation, new tile, plumbing, and electrical usually values at $15,000 to $40,000, so expect permit fees of $225 to $800 (building permit $150–$400, plumbing permit $75–$200, electrical permit $75–$200). Concord's Building Department publishes its fee schedule on the city website; confirm the current rates before you file, as they're updated annually. Separate inspection fees are sometimes waived for residential permits under a certain valuation, but plan for $50 to $150 per inspection if they apply. Once your permit is issued, you typically have 180 days to begin work and 1 year to complete it; if you exceed 1 year, you must re-apply and re-pay the permit fee.
New Hampshire-specific and Concord-local rules that affect bathroom remodels: First, lead-paint disclosure. If your home was built before 1978, any interior remodeling triggers New Hampshire's Residential Property Disclosure Act; you must disclose the presence of lead paint to the Building Department (on the permit form) and any inspectors must follow lead-safe work practices (containment, HEPA vacuuming, wet cleaning). Violating lead-safe practices can result in state health department fines and liability for contamination. Second, owner-builder permits are allowed in Concord for owner-occupied homes, but only the owner can pull the permit; if a contractor is hired, they must be licensed (NH requires licensure for plumbing and electrical work, though not for general carpentry). Third, Concord's basement water-intrusion rules: if your bathroom is in a basement or partially below grade, the Building Department may require additional waterproofing details and sump-pump verification, especially in older homes with clay or glacial-till soils (common in the Concord area). Finally, Concord enforces statewide energy code (IECC 2015) — new windows in a bathroom remodel must meet U-factor and SHGC requirements, and insulation in exterior walls must be to code (R-13 minimum for zone 6A), though these are rarely an issue in a remodel unless you're replacing the entire exterior wall.
Three Concord bathroom remodel (full) scenarios
Waterproofing assembly rules in Concord: shower and tub enclosures
Concord enforces IRC R702.4.2, which requires that all tub and shower enclosures above grade (typical residential bathroom) have a water-resistant or moisture-vapor-permeable membrane directly behind the tile or panel surface. The code allows three main approaches: (1) cement board with liquid membrane (RedGard, Aqua Defense, or equivalent) — the most common and typically cheapest; (2) pre-formed shower pans (acrylic or fiberglass); (3) waterproofed drywall (greenboard or tile-backer board with sealant). Many homeowners and contractors incorrectly assume that thin-set mortar or grout alone will block water penetration — it will not, and Concord inspectors routinely reject shower rough-ins that don't include a specified membrane. On your permit application, you must explicitly state which system you're using and provide the product spec sheet or material list; 'waterproof the shower per code' is not acceptable and will trigger a plan-review rejection.
Installation details matter in Concord's inspection process. If you're using cement board, the inspector will verify that the board is fastened with corrosion-resistant nails or screws (not wood screws or drywall nails), installed perpendicular to studs with no gaps at corners, and that all seams are taped with waterproofing tape before membrane application. The membrane must extend at least 12 inches up the wall above the shower head and 6 inches down the wall below the tub rim. If the shower floor is tile-on-mortar (not a pre-formed pan), you'll need a sloped mortar bed (minimum 1/4-inch per foot slope toward the drain) with a shower liner or drain membrane beneath it. Concord inspectors will check slope with a level during rough-in and again before tile is set. If slope is inadequate, water pools in low spots and causes mold and leaks — a common defect in DIY remodels.
Cost and timeline implications of waterproofing in Concord: specifying and installing a proper waterproofing assembly typically adds $800 to $2,000 to a bathroom remodel (materials $300–$600, labor $500–$1,400), but skipping it or doing it incorrectly can trigger costly re-work after inspection or lead to insurance claims and mold remediation (which can cost $5,000–$30,000). Concord's rough-plumbing inspection occurs before waterproofing is fully installed (so the inspector can see the drain and vent lines), but the final plumbing inspection may occur after tile is set, at which point any waterproofing defects are expensive to fix. Many contractors schedule a waterproofing inspection with the Building Department before tile work begins (not required but recommended) to catch issues early. Allow an extra 1-2 weeks in your timeline if the inspector requests changes to the waterproofing system during rough-in.
Exhaust fan ventilation: duct routing and termination in Concord's climate
IRC M1505 requires that all bathrooms with a tub or shower have mechanical ventilation — either an exhaust fan ducted to the exterior or a window (opening to outdoor air). In Concord's climate zone 6A, ducting the exhaust fan to the attic (a common error in older homes) is strictly prohibited because warm, moisture-laden bathroom air entering the attic in winter will condense on roof sheathing and rafters, causing rot and mold. Concord's Building Department and inspectors are very strict about this rule: the duct must terminate through an exterior wall or roof with a damper-equipped vent cap (to prevent cold-air infiltration and pests). If your bathroom is on an interior wall with no direct exterior access, you must run the duct through the attic in a sealed, insulated sleeve and terminate it through the roof or an exterior soffit — not into the attic cavity itself. On your permit plan, you must show the duct routing, termination location, and damper type; many contractors omit this detail, causing plan-review rejections.
Duct sizing and slope are also critical in Concord. Per IRC M1505.2, the minimum duct diameter is 4 inches for a typical residential exhaust fan (600-800 CFM for a 50-100 sq ft bathroom). The duct must have a slight downward slope toward the exterior (not horizontal or upsloped) to prevent condensation pooling and eventual ice blockage during winter — Concord's cold, dry climate makes this especially important. Flex duct (white plastic tubing) is acceptable but less efficient than rigid metal duct; many inspectors prefer rigid duct because flex duct can sag and trap water. If the duct run is long (more than 25 feet), you may need a larger fan (900 CFM or more) to overcome friction loss; Concord inspectors will check the fan CFM rating and duct length during inspection.
Cost and timeline for exhaust fan work in Concord: a new exhaust fan with ductwork typically costs $200–$600 (fan unit $80–$250, duct and damper $80–$200, installation labor $100–$300). If the duct must be routed through the attic with insulation and a sealed termination, add $300–$800. Concord's rough-electrical inspection will verify that the fan is wired to a dedicated GFCI circuit and that the switch is accessible and clearly labeled 'Exhaust Fan'. If the duct termination is on the roof (visible from the street), some homeowners in historic neighborhoods may face Design Review Board comments about appearance — check with the city if your home is in a historic district or overlay zone. Plan 1-2 extra weeks if the duct routing is complex or requires structural modification (such as cutting through rafters or joists).
41 Green Street, Concord, NH 03301 (Concord City Hall)
Phone: (603) 225-8500 ext. Building Department (verify extension with city) | https://www.concordnh.gov/government/permits-licensing
Monday-Friday, 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM
Common questions
Do I need a permit to replace a toilet or faucet in my bathroom?
No, if the toilet or faucet is being installed in the same location (same drain and supply lines). Replacing a fixture in-place is cosmetic work and exempt from permit requirements. However, if you're moving the toilet to a new location or installing a new drain line, a permit is required. Check with Concord's Building Department if you're unsure whether the existing drains and supply lines can accommodate the new fixture.
What's the most common reason Concord rejects bathroom remodel permit applications?
Missing or incorrectly specified waterproofing details for shower or tub enclosures. Applicants often assume that tile and grout alone are waterproof and don't include a cement-board-and-membrane system or pre-formed pan detail. Concord inspectors will reject any plan that doesn't explicitly specify the waterproofing assembly (e.g., 'cement board + RedGard membrane' or 'acrylic pre-formed shower pan'). Include the product spec sheet with your permit application to avoid delays.
How long does it take to get a bathroom remodel permit approved in Concord?
For a straightforward remodel (fixture relocation, new tile, exhaust fan), expect 2 to 3 weeks for plan review. More complex projects (wall removal, second bathroom, structural changes) may take 3 to 4 weeks. Concord's online permit portal and dedicated residential review team speed up processing compared to some smaller New Hampshire towns. Once approved, you have 180 days to start work and 1 year to complete it.
Can I pull my own bathroom remodel permit as the homeowner, or do I need a licensed contractor?
You can pull the permit yourself if you're the owner-occupant and doing the work yourself. However, plumbing and electrical work in New Hampshire must be performed by licensed professionals (NH requires licensure for plumbers and electricians). If you're hiring a contractor, they must hold a valid NH plumbing or electrical license, and they typically pull the permits on your behalf. You remain responsible for ensuring the work complies with code and passes all inspections.
What inspections will I need for a full bathroom remodel in Concord?
For a straightforward remodel with fixture relocation and new tile, expect 4 inspections: rough plumbing (drains and vents), rough electrical (circuits and outlets), final plumbing, and final electrical. If you're removing a wall, gutting to studs, or making major changes, inspections may include framing and drywall as well. Concord's Building Department will issue a permit card listing all required inspections; call the inspections hotline to schedule each one (typically 1-2 days notice). Allow 1-2 weeks between rough and final inspections for finishing work.
Does my pre-1978 home's lead-paint history affect my bathroom remodel permit?
Yes. If your home was built before 1978, New Hampshire's Residential Property Disclosure Act requires you to disclose the presence of lead paint to the Building Department (on the permit form) and to all contractors and inspectors. Interior demolition work (including removal of non-load-bearing walls or tile) is considered a 'disturbance' and triggers lead-safe work practices: contractors must use containment, HEPA vacuuming, and wet-cleaning methods. Violating lead-safe practices can result in state health department fines. If lead paint is confirmed, abatement may be required before demolition, adding $1,500–$5,000 to your project cost.
Is a second-story bathroom remodel harder to permit than a first-floor bathroom in Concord?
Second-story remodels are not inherently harder to permit, but drainage routing is more complex. If you're relocating a toilet or shower on the second floor, the new drain line must run down through the floor joist cavity (with adequate slope) and connect to the main stack in the basement or crawl space. Concord's plumbing inspector will require detailed isometric drawings showing the drain and vent routing, and any penetrations through the floor must be sealed to prevent air leakage and pest entry. If the existing stack is in an inconvenient location, running a new drain line may require re-routing through walls or beneath the floor, which adds cost and complexity. Plan for 3-4 weeks of plan review for a second-story bathroom remodel.
What's the difference between a 'bathroom remodel' permit and an 'addition' permit in Concord?
A bathroom remodel permit covers changes to an existing bathroom space (fixture relocation, new tile, exhaust fans, etc.). An addition permit covers new square footage (adding a second bathroom, expanding the footprint). If you're building a brand-new bathroom onto your home (rather than reconfiguring an existing one), you'll need an addition permit in addition to the plumbing and electrical permits. Addition permits require site plans, setback verification, and may trigger design review or zoning approval. The permit fee is typically higher for an addition (2-3% of valuation vs. 1.5-2% for a remodel) and plan review takes 4-6 weeks.
Can I start my bathroom remodel work before the permit is issued?
No. All work must begin after the permit is issued and the 'permit to commence work' has been received. Starting work before permit approval is a code violation and can result in a stop-work order, fines ($100–$500 per day in Concord), and double permit fees on re-pull. If you've already started unpermitted work, contact Concord's Building Department immediately to discuss options; retroactive permits are sometimes available but require all work to be inspected for code compliance, which is more costly than permitting before starting.
Do I need separate permits for plumbing, electrical, and building work, or is one permit enough in Concord?
You need three separate permits: a building permit (covers the general scope of work, inspections, fees), a plumbing permit (covers drain, vent, and supply lines), and an electrical permit (covers circuits, outlets, and exhaust fan wiring). Some jurisdictions bundle these, but Concord requires separate filings. The three permits are coordinated by the Building Department and cost a combined $400–$1,100 for a full bathroom remodel. Each permit has its own inspection schedule, and all must be signed off before work is considered complete.
More permit guides
National guides for the most-asked homeowner permit projects. Each goes deep on code thresholds, common rejections, fees, and timeline.
Roof Replacement
Layer count, deck inspection, ice dam protection, hurricane straps.
Deck
Attached vs freestanding, footings, frost depth, ledger, height/area thresholds.
Kitchen Remodel
Plumbing, electrical, gas line, ventilation, structural changes.
Solar Panels
Structural review, electrical interconnection, fire setbacks, AHJ approval.
Fence
Height/material limits, sight triangles, pool barriers, setbacks.
HVAC
Equipment changeouts, ductwork, combustion air, ventilation, IMC sections.
Bathroom Remodel
Plumbing rough-in, ventilation, electrical (GFCI/AFCI), waterproofing.
Electrical Work
Subpermits, NEC sections, panel upgrades, GFCI/AFCI, who can pull.
Basement Finishing
Egress, ceiling height, electrical, moisture barriers, occupancy rules.
Room Addition
Foundation, footings, framing, electrical/plumbing extensions, structural.
Accessory Dwelling Units (ADU)
When permits are required, code thresholds, JADU vs ADU, electrical/plumbing/parking rules.
New Windows
Egress, header sizing, structural cuts, fire-rating, energy code.
Heat Pump
Electrical capacity, refrigerant handling, condensate, IECC compliance.
Hurricane Retrofit
Roof straps, garage door bracing, opening protection, FL OIR product approval.
Pool
Barriers, alarms, electrical bonding, plumbing, separation distances.
Fireplace & Wood Stove
Hearth, clearances, chimney, gas line work, NFPA 211.
Sump Pump
Discharge location, electrical, backup options, plumbing tie-in.
Mini-Split
Refrigerant lines, condensate, electrical disconnect, line set sleeve.