Bathroom Remodel Permit Guide (2026)

A full bathroom remodel sits in a gray zone. If you're just replacing the tile, vanity, and faucet in their existing locations, you likely don't need a permit. But the moment you relocate a toilet or sink, add a new exhaust fan duct, rewire for new circuits, move a wall, or convert a tub to a shower, you're into permit territory — and the code has a lot to say about waterproofing, drainage, electrical safety, and ventilation.

The trigger is almost always structural or systems-related change, not cosmetic refreshing. A tile-and-fixture swap is cosmetic. Moving a toilet 3 feet over is not. The distinction matters because bathroom code violations — particularly bad waterproofing or improper GFCI protection — create liability and can undermine insurance claims or create problems at sale time.

This guide covers when permits apply, what code sections matter most, how bathroom rules vary by state and climate, and what the most common rejection points are. The goal is to help you figure out, before you start demolition, whether you need to file or if you're safe to proceed on your own.

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When bathroom remodels need permits

The decision hinges on four things: fixture relocation, electrical changes, ventilation work, and structural changes. If none of those apply, you're likely exempt. If any do, you need a permit. Fixture relocation is the most common trigger. Moving a toilet, sink, shower, or tub to a new location requires a permit because it changes the drainage and supply-line routing. The IRC P2706 sets strict limits on the angle and length of trap arms (the pipe between the trap and the vent stack) — trap arms are limited to 30 inches horizontally and must slope downward to the trap at 1/4 inch per foot. Violate those and water backs up or sewage gases escape into the house. A plumber can check this without a permit, but if you're reconfiguring the bathroom layout yourself or using an unlicensed installer, the building department will catch it during inspection.

Electrical additions almost always need a permit. New circuits for heated floor, additional outlets, or a towel warmer trigger the requirement. More importantly, any bathroom work that touches the electrical system needs to comply with IRC E3902, which mandates GFCI protection for all receptacles within 6 feet of a sink, tub, or shower. If your existing bathroom doesn't have GFCI outlets and your remodel doesn't address this, the permit inspector will flag it — and it's a health-and-safety issue that insurance takes seriously. The electrical subpermit is almost always filed by a licensed electrician, not the homeowner, even if you're doing the carpentry and plumbing yourself.

Exhaust fan and ventilation work requires a permit. Installing a new exhaust fan, moving the ductwork, or changing the duct route to the outside triggers permit review. IRC M1505 specifies minimum fan capacity (80 cubic feet per minute for most bathrooms, 100 CFM if the bathroom is over 100 square feet or has a tub and shower) and duct termination requirements. Terminating ductwork into the attic, through a soffit, or directly out a wall is a code violation and a building-science disaster — moisture and mold follow. The permit application requires you to show where the ductwork runs and where it exits the building. Rough-in and final inspections verify duct sizing and termination.

Wall movement or removal requires a permit. Taking out a wall, moving a wall, or framing a new wall for a wet room or enlarged shower stall changes the structure. This triggers not just a remodel permit but often a structural review to ensure beams, headers, and load paths are adequate. If you're removing a wall that runs perpendicular to floor joists, the inspector will require a structural engineer's stamp and a new beam installed. This is not a gray area — any wall movement requires a permit and likely a separate structural review.

Tub-to-shower conversions sit on the borderline but usually need a permit. The trigger isn't the swap itself but the waterproofing assembly. Converting a tub to a shower means installing a shower pan or preformed base, then surrounding it with a waterproofing and backer-board system. IRC R702.4.2 requires a continuous water-repellent barrier on all surfaces in a shower enclosure. Cement board plus a liquid waterproofing membrane is the standard; some jurisdictions accept sheet membranes or prefab shower surrounds, but the building department needs to see what you're installing and how it's detailed. If you're removing the tub and tiling a shower from scratch, you need a permit so the inspector can verify the waterproofing before drywall or finish tile goes up.

Cosmetic-only work is exempt in most jurisdictions. Replacing an existing toilet, vanity, faucet, or light fixture in place without moving supply lines or drain lines doesn't require a permit. Retiling walls, replacing cabinet hardware, repainting — these are all cosmetic and exempt. But once you relocate a fixture, upgrade the electrical, or change the ventilation, you cross into permit territory. The safest move before starting is a 10-minute phone call to your local building department's intake line: describe the work, ask if a permit applies, and ask whether electrical and plumbing subpermits will be required separately. Most departments will answer this without charging anything.

How bathroom remodel permits vary by state and region

The IRC (International Residential Code) is the national baseline, but states and municipalities add amendments and interpretations that affect bathroom work. Florida, for example, uses the 2023 Florida Building Code and adds hurricane-zone requirements: any window replacement or new opening in a bathroom requires impact-resistant glass in windborne-debris regions. California's Title 24 energy code mandates specific exhaust-fan efficiency ratings and CFM-per-square-foot calculations that exceed the base IRC. New York adopts the IRC but adds lead-paint disclosure rules for any work in pre-1978 homes, including bathroom remodels (you must use EPA-certified lead-safe practices or hire a certified contractor). These state amendments are often overlooked by homeowners and DIYers and lead to rejection of permits or inspection failures.

Cold-climate jurisdictions (Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan, Colorado) layer additional waterproofing and vapor-barrier rules onto the IRC baseline. Wisconsin, for example, requires a damp-proof course below tile in any wet area and has stricter duct-insulation rules to prevent condensation in unheated attics and crawl spaces. Bathroom exhaust ductwork in cold climates is often required to be insulated and run directly outside rather than into an attic — a detail that surprises homeowners and can cost extra during rough-in inspection.

Some states adopt the IRC wholesale; others customize heavily. Texas generally follows the IRC with light amendments. Georgia and the Carolinas allow some flexibility in waterproofing systems (sheet membranes vs. liquid membranes) that New England jurisdictions are stricter about. The biggest variable is how aggressively the local inspector enforces the code. A by-the-book inspector in any jurisdiction will require proper waterproofing, GFCI outlets, and duct termination. A loose inspector might wave through a shortcut. The safest assumption is that your jurisdiction will enforce at least the minimum IRC standard.

Pre-1978 homes trigger additional complexity in most states. Lead paint disclosure, lead-safe work practices, and sometimes lead testing are required before renovation, including bathroom remodels. California, New York, and Massachusetts are strictest; federal law (the RRP rule) applies nationally, but enforcement and local variance interpretation differ. Get ahead of this: if your home was built before 1978 and you're doing a full bathroom remodel, contact your building department early and ask about lead-paint protocols. Some jurisdictions require a lead-certified contractor to do the work or certify lead-safe procedures.

Common scenarios

Retiling a shower wall in place, replacing the faucet, adding new light fixture

All three are cosmetic changes. The faucet swap doesn't modify supply lines beyond the immediate valve area. The new light fixture is a simple swap in the existing box. Retiling a shower wall is finish work done after the waterproofing is already sealed. None of these trigger a permit. You can do this work yourself or hire a tile and plumbing handyperson without a permit. Verify with your local building department if you're uncertain, but this is the most common "I don't need a permit" scenario.

Moving the toilet to the opposite wall, keeping the sink in place, updating tile and fixtures

Moving the toilet triggers a permit. Even though you're keeping the sink and other fixtures in place, relocating the toilet means rerouting the drainage and supply lines. This requires plan review to verify trap-arm length, slope, and vent routing comply with IRC P2706. You'll need a rough plumbing inspection after the waste and supply lines are roughed in (before drywall) and a final plumbing inspection after fixtures are set. The tile and fixture swaps themselves are exempt, but they're bundled into the larger permit. Electrical work (if you're adding outlets) would require a separate subpermit filed by a licensed electrician.

Full gut remodel: moving toilet and sink, adding new shower with tile, installing new exhaust fan and ductwork, adding three new electrical circuits

This is a full permit scenario with multiple subpermits. You need a building permit for the overall scope (plumbing and ventilation changes), a plumbing subpermit for the fixture relocation and drainage work, an electrical subpermit for the new circuits and GFCI-outlet compliance, and a mechanical subpermit for the exhaust-fan installation and ductwork. Plan review will examine the waterproofing detail for the new shower (cement board plus membrane, with proper slopes and duct termination), the trap-arm routing for the relocated toilet and sink, the GFCI and AFCI outlet locations on the electrical plan, and the exhaust-fan CFM capacity and duct sizing. Rough inspections will cover plumbing (after waste and supply roughed in), electrical (after roughed in), and mechanical (exhaust fan and duct before wall closure). Final inspection verifies all fixtures, outlets, and exhaust termination. Expect plan review to take 2–4 weeks and total inspections across 3–4 site visits over 3–6 weeks.

Converting a bathtub to a shower enclosure with ceramic tile

In most jurisdictions, this requires a permit because it changes the waterproofing assembly. You're removing a bathtub (which has its own integrated barrier) and installing a shower pan or base with tile surround. IRC R702.4.2 mandates a continuous water-repellent barrier and backer board (typically cement board or foam-core board) before finish tile. The permit application must show the waterproofing detail: pan type, membrane system, backer board specification, and grout joint sealing. Some jurisdictions accept prefab shower surrounds with manufacturer documentation instead of custom tile, which simplifies the permit. A few permissive jurisdictions allow this work exempt if the tub is a direct swap in place without wall relocation, but most require a permit to verify the waterproofing detail before tile is installed. Call your building department and ask: "Is tub-to-shower conversion exempt if I don't move the wall or change the size of the enclosure?" The answer varies.

Adding a half-bath in a corner of a bedroom, new sink and toilet only, electric and water run from adjacent bathroom

This is not a remodel of an existing bathroom but an addition of a new bathroom. It triggers a different code path than a full bathroom remodel and requires a building permit, plumbing subpermit, and electrical subpermit. Structural work may be needed (wall framing for the new enclosure), and the mechanical/ventilation subpermit is required for the new exhaust fan (a half-bath with only a toilet doesn't require mechanical ventilation in the IRC baseline, but most local codes require a ductless or ducted fan for odor control). Plumbing requires venting of the new drain and water-supply line routing from the adjacent bathroom. This is more involved than a remodel because there's no existing infrastructure to tie into — all the supply, drain, and vent work is new. Plan review will be more extensive, typically 3–5 weeks. This differs from a full bathroom remodel in scope and code complexity.

Installing a steam shower in the existing shower enclosure, no structural changes, existing plumbing and electrical used

If the steam system ties into existing plumbing and electrical and requires no new circuits or supply-line modifications, some jurisdictions treat this as an equipment swap exempt from permitting. However, most jurisdictions require a permit because a steam-shower installation adds a new mechanical system (the steam generator) and often requires new electrical dedicated circuits and upgraded GFCI protection. The generator itself may need its own subpanel or circuit. Check with your local building department: steam showers sit in a gray area between fixture replacement and mechanical-system addition. If a permit is required, expect plan review focused on electrical capacity, GFCI compliance, and the installation documentation from the steam-shower manufacturer.

What documents you'll need and who can file

Document	What it is	Where to get it
Completed Permit Application Form	The standard application for a bathroom remodel, filled out with property address, owner/contractor info, description of work, estimated cost of improvements, and signature. Most jurisdictions have a one-page form.	Your local building department website (under Permits > Residential) or in person at the department office. If there's an online portal, the form is generated as part of the filing process.
Site Plan or Layout Drawing	A simple floor plan showing the bathroom outline, existing fixture locations, new fixture locations (if moving anything), and dimensions. Not to scale — a sketch is often sufficient. Shows the building footprint, lot lines (if relevant for setbacks), and the bathroom's position within the home.	You draw this yourself or ask your contractor to sketch it. Many building departments will accept a hand-drawn or printed floor plan from your home's original blueprints with fixture relocations marked in pencil or a different color.
Plumbing Plan (if fixtures are moving or new)	A schematic showing the new routing of water supply lines and drain lines, including trap-arm lengths and vent-stack connections. Shows hot and cold supply lines, drain and vent locations, fixture connections, and trap-arm routing. Must clearly indicate compliance with IRC P2706 trap-arm maximums (30 inches horizontal, 1/4 inch per foot slope). Prepared by a plumber or designer with plumbing experience.	Your plumber or a plumbing designer files this. If you're DIY, contact your building department for guidance on what level of detail they require; some will accept a simplified sketch with dimensions, others require a formal plumbing schematic.
Electrical Plan (if new circuits or GFCI updates)	A drawing showing new circuit locations, GFCI outlet placements (within 6 feet of sink, tub, shower per IRC E3902), AFCI protection if required, panel upgrades if needed, and wire gauges. Shows how the new circuits tie into the main panel. Filed by a licensed electrician in most jurisdictions.	Your electrician files this as part of the electrical subpermit. The building department usually provides a template or requires the electrician's standard format.
Waterproofing Detail (if tub-to-shower conversion or new shower)	A cross-section or specification sheet showing the shower waterproofing assembly: pan type (tile-able base, prefab pan, etc.), backer board type and thickness (cement board, foam-core, etc.), liquid or sheet membrane specification, grout type, and caulk/sealant details. IRC R702.4.2 requires continuous water-repellent barrier and proper substrate. Manufacturer product data sheets can be attached.	Your contractor or tile installer prepares this. Many tile suppliers and contractors have standard waterproofing detail sheets for cement board plus liquid-membrane systems. Prefab shower surrounds come with manufacturer documentation that satisfies most jurisdictions.
Exhaust Fan and Ductwork Detail (if new fan or duct relocation)	A schematic or drawing showing fan location, CFM capacity, duct size (typically 4 or 5 inch diameter), duct routing from fan to exterior, duct insulation (if required in cold climates), and exterior termination location. Must show compliance with IRC M1505 (minimum CFM: 80 for standard bathroom, 100 CFM for bathrooms over 100 square feet or with tub and shower). Specifies whether duct terminates through exterior wall, roof, or soffit.	Your HVAC contractor or mechanical designer files this. If you're DIY, sketch the fan location, ductwork path, and termination point, then confirm with your building department that the detail meets local requirements.
Proof of Ownership (Deed or Mortgage Statement)	A copy of your deed or a recent property tax bill or mortgage statement proving you own the property. Some jurisdictions ask for this during application; others don't require it until inspection.	Your recorded deed from the county land records, or a recent tax assessment notice, or a mortgage statement showing the property address and your name.
Lead-Paint Disclosure (if pre-1978 home)	A signed acknowledgment that you understand lead-paint hazards and agree to use EPA-certified lead-safe work practices or hire a lead-certified contractor. Required by federal law (RRP rule) for any renovation in pre-1978 homes. Some states and localities have additional disclosure or certification requirements.	Your building department provides the form, or you can use the federal EPA form. A lead-certified contractor provides this as part of their standard documentation.

Who can pull: In most jurisdictions, the homeowner can pull a bathroom remodel permit and file it themselves. However, plumbing and electrical subpermits are almost always filed by licensed contractors (plumber and electrician, respectively) in their name. Many jurisdictions allow the homeowner to do carpentry, demolition, and finish work (tile, paint, etc.) themselves, but plumbing and electrical must be licensed. Some jurisdictions allow a homeowner to pull the main building permit and hire a GC or contractor to file the subpermits; others require all three subpermits filed at once. Call your building department and ask: "Can I pull the remodel permit as the homeowner, and can I hire a licensed plumber and electrician to file their subpermits?" or "Does the contractor have to pull all permits?" The answer varies by jurisdiction, and getting it right up front saves delays.

Why bathroom remodel permits get rejected during plan review

Shower waterproofing assembly not specified or incomplete. Application shows "tile shower" but doesn't detail the pan type, backer board, membrane system, or termination at the base of the wall.
Attach a waterproofing detail or manufacturer specification sheet showing the pan (tile-able base vs. prefab), backer board type and thickness (cement board is standard), waterproofing membrane (liquid or sheet, and product name), and how it ties to the drain pan and the edges of the enclosure. IRC R702.4.2 requires continuous water-repellent barrier; the inspector needs to see the assembly before issuing approval.
Electrical plan missing GFCI outlet locations or doesn't show outlets within 6 feet of the sink, tub, or shower. Application shows new circuits but no detail on where GFCI protection is installed.
Revise the electrical plan to mark all outlets within 6 feet of water sources as GFCI-protected. If existing non-GFCI outlets are within this zone, the plan must show them being replaced with GFCI outlets or a GFCI breaker protecting the circuit. IRC E3902 mandates this; there's no exemption. The electrician filing the subpermit should catch this, but if you're submitting a homeowner application, it's your responsibility.
Trap-arm length exceeds code maximum or slope is insufficient. Plan shows a drain line from a relocated toilet that's more than 30 inches (horizontal) from the vent stack or slopes upward or has flat sections.
Revise the plumbing plan to route the trap arm within 30 inches of the vent stack (measured horizontally from the outlet of the trap to the vent stack) and at a uniform 1/4-inch-per-foot slope downward toward the trap. If the fixture is too far from the existing vent, you may need to add a new vent stack or secondary vent line. A plumber can advise if you're unsure; have them draw the corrected plan.
Exhaust fan duct termination not shown or terminates into attic, soffit, or wall cavity instead of outside. Application says "install exhaust fan" but doesn't show where the ductwork ends.
Revise the mechanical detail to show the ductwork terminating through the exterior wall, roof, or soffit with a proper cap or damper. Terminating into an attic or unconditioned space is a code violation and creates moisture and mold risk. Include the duct size (typically 4-inch diameter for a standard bathroom) and whether ductwork is insulated. If the home is in a cold climate, note whether the ductwork is insulated to prevent condensation.
Tub-to-shower conversion shown with no waterproofing specification, or waterproofing is incomplete (backer board but no membrane, or membrane but no substrate specified).
Specify the complete waterproofing system: backer board type and thickness, waterproofing membrane type and product name, how the membrane extends up the walls and down to the drain pan, and how it's sealed at corners and terminations. Standard detail is cement board plus a liquid waterproofing membrane (like RedGard or Schluter) applied per manufacturer instructions. Prefab shower surrounds with manufacturer documentation are acceptable if that's what you're installing.
Plumbing fixture specification missing or non-code-compliant. Plan shows relocating a toilet or sink but doesn't specify if the new fixtures are pressure-balanced or anti-scald valves (required for tub-shower combinations in many jurisdictions).
Specify the fixture brand and model on the plumbing plan. For any tub or shower valve, verify that the fixture is pressure-balanced or thermostat-controlled to prevent scalding. Provide the manufacturer spec sheet if asked. IRC P2706 and many local codes require anti-scald protection on tub-shower valves.
Electrical plan shows non-AFCI circuits in bathrooms or doesn't note AFCI protection for bedrooms (if the bathroom is adjacent or shares a wall). Some updated codes require AFCI on all bedroom circuits, which affects bathroom work if new circuits run near bedrooms.
Confirm AFCI requirements with your building department — they vary. Modern code (2020 NEC and later) requires AFCI on all branch circuits in bedrooms and some bathrooms. Your electrician's subpermit plan should address this; if it doesn't, ask them to revise it or note which circuits will have AFCI protection.

Bathroom remodel permit costs

Permit fees are set by the local building department and are typically based on the estimated value of the work. A bathroom remodel that involves fixture relocation and cosmetic updates can range from $2,000 to $15,000 or more, depending on the scope. The building department uses this valuation to calculate the permit fee.

Most jurisdictions charge 1.5–2% of the project valuation as the base building permit fee. A $5,000 bathroom remodel might incur a $75–$150 building permit fee. Add separate fees for electrical and plumbing subpermits, which are often flat fees ($75–$200 each) or small percentages of the subcontractor's bid.

Inspection is typically included in the permit fee, so there's no charge per inspection. However, if an inspection is failed and requires a re-inspection, some departments charge a reinspection fee ($50–$150).

Line item	Amount	Notes
Building Permit (main)	$75–$250	Typically 1.5–2% of project valuation. A $5,000 remodel → ~$100. A $15,000 remodel → ~$250. Check your local department's fee schedule online.
Electrical Subpermit	$75–$200	Flat fee in many jurisdictions, or 1–2% of electrical work cost. Filed by the licensed electrician. Multiple circuits or panel upgrades may increase the fee.
Plumbing Subpermit	$75–$200	Flat fee in many jurisdictions, or based on the number of fixtures or linear feet of pipe. Fixture relocation costs more than simple supply/drain extensions.
Mechanical Subpermit (exhaust fan / HVAC)	$50–$150	Required if installing or relocating an exhaust fan or any ductwork. Flat fee in most jurisdictions.
Plan Review	Included	Most jurisdictions bundle plan review into the building permit fee. No separate charge. Review typically takes 2–4 weeks.
Inspection Visits (rough, final, etc.)	Included	Multiple inspections (rough plumbing, rough electrical, framing, final) are included in the permit fee. No per-inspection charge. Reinspections after a failed inspection may incur a $50–$150 fee.
Total Typical Cost	$250–$600	For a standard full bathroom remodel with plumbing and electrical work. Varies by jurisdiction and project complexity. Call your building department for the exact fees for your area.

Common questions

Do I need a permit to just replace my toilet, sink, and faucet in place?

No. Replacing fixtures in their existing locations without moving supply lines or drain lines is a cosmetic change and is exempt in virtually all jurisdictions. You can do this yourself or hire a plumber without a permit. The moment you move a fixture to a new location, you need a permit.

Can I do bathroom remodel work myself, or do I have to hire a licensed contractor?

You can do carpentry, demolition, and tile work yourself. But plumbing and electrical work almost always require a licensed plumber and electrician, respectively. Some jurisdictions allow homeowners to pull permits and do the work themselves if they pass a contractor's exam, but this is rare. Check with your building department: most will tell you to hire licensed trades for plumbing and electrical subpermits. Cosmetic work (tile, paint, fixtures swaps in place) can be DIY.

What's the difference between a bathroom remodel permit and a new-bathroom permit?

A bathroom remodel updates an existing bathroom (moving fixtures, upgrading systems, cosmetic refreshing). A new-bathroom permit covers adding a bathroom to the home where one didn't exist (carving a half-bath out of a bedroom corner, for example). New bathrooms trigger more extensive code review because all the plumbing, electrical, and ventilation is new and must be tied into the home's existing infrastructure. A remodel may be simpler if it's using existing drain and vent stacks. Always clarify with your building department which type of permit you need.

If my home was built before 1978, do I need special permits for a bathroom remodel?

Yes. The federal RRP (Renovation, Repair, and Painting) rule applies to any home built before 1978. You (or your contractor) must use EPA-certified lead-safe work practices — containment, HEPA-filtered vacuums, wet cleaning, and proper waste disposal. Some states and cities require a lead assessment or a lead-certified contractor. This is separate from the permit itself but must be addressed before and during work. Disclose lead-paint risk to your building department when you apply for the permit; they'll tell you what documentation is required.

How long does a bathroom remodel permit take to get approved?

Plan review typically takes 2–4 weeks. Simpler projects (fixture swaps with no structural changes) can be faster — some departments offer over-the-counter permits that are approved the same day. Once approved, construction can begin. The actual construction takes 2–6 weeks depending on scope and whether rework is needed after inspections. If an inspection fails, expect 1–2 weeks for corrective work and re-inspection. Total timeline from permit application to final sign-off is typically 6–12 weeks for a full remodel.

What happens if I do a bathroom remodel without a permit?

You're liable for code violations, warranty issues, and insurance claims. If the work is discovered (via a home sale inspection, insurance claim, or neighbor complaint), the building department can order you to remove the work, repair it to code, or have it inspected retroactively. Unpermitted electrical work is a fire hazard and can void your homeowner's insurance. Bad plumbing and waterproofing can cause mold, structural damage, and health issues. Selling a home with unpermitted work is illegal in most states and can result in forced remediation at your expense or rescission of the sale. It's not worth the risk — permits exist to protect your home and your liability.

Can I start work before the permit is approved?

No. Starting work before the permit is approved and the building department issues a notice to proceed is a violation. You can do demolition and prep work, but no structural, plumbing, electrical, or mechanical work until the permit is issued. If the inspector shows up during plan review and finds major work underway, the permit can be suspended or revoked. Once the permit is approved, you can begin construction.

Do I need a separate permit for a heated floor or towel warmer?

A heated floor or towel warmer is an electrical addition and requires an electrical subpermit if it involves new circuits or a dedicated circuit. The electrical plan must show the new circuit, the breaker size, and GFCI protection if within 6 feet of water. If the heater taps into existing bathroom wiring without adding a new circuit, some jurisdictions allow it without a permit, but you should confirm with your building department. When in doubt, get the subpermit — it's a simple addition and prevents future problems.

What if my exhaust fan currently vents into the attic? Do I have to reroute it as part of the remodel?

If you're doing a full remodel and touching the ventilation system, you should reroute the ductwork to the exterior (through a wall, roof, or soffit). IRC M1505 prohibits venting into an attic because moisture and mold follow. If the building department asks about the existing ductwork during plan review, they may require you to correct it as a condition of approval. If you're not moving the fan and not part of your remodel scope, you might be able to leave it as-is, but ask the inspector — many departments flag this as a correction notice during the final inspection.

Who pays for the permit fees — me or my contractor?

If you pull the permit yourself, you pay the fees. If a contractor pulls the permit or pulls it in their name, they may include the permit fees in their bid or charge them separately. Clarify this in your contract with the contractor. Electrical and plumbing subpermits are usually paid by the electrical and plumbing contractors, respectively, and folded into their invoices.

Can I use my own plans or do I need to hire a designer?

For most bathroom remodels, you don't need a professional designer or architect. A basic floor plan sketch showing fixture locations, dimensions, and relocations is sufficient for the building department's plan review. For complex layouts, structural changes, or custom tile work, a designer or plumber's schematic helps. Hire a designer if the work is intricate; for straightforward fixture moves and cosmetic updates, contractor sketches or your own drawings are fine. Ask your building department what level of detail they require before paying for professional drawings.

Cities we cover for bathroom remodel permits

City-specific bathroom remodel permit guides with local fees, code editions, and building department contact info. Click your city for the local rules.

Alabama

Alaska

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Colorado

Connecticut

Delaware

Florida

Hawaii

Idaho

Illinois

Kansas

Louisiana

Maine

Maryland

Mississippi

Montana

Nebraska

Nevada

New Hampshire

New Mexico

North Carolina

North Dakota

Ohio

Oklahoma

Oregon

Pennsylvania

Rhode Island

South Carolina

South Dakota

Texas

Vermont

Washington D.C.

Washington

West Virginia

Wyoming

Ready to start your bathroom remodel?

Now that you understand when permits apply, the next step is to call your local building department and confirm the requirements for your specific project. Have a sketch of your bathroom ready, write down the changes you're planning (fixture moves, electrical additions, ventilation work, etc.), and ask the intake specialist three questions: (1) Does this project require a permit? (2) What subpermits will I need? (3) What documents should I submit with my application? This 10-minute call will save you weeks of back-and-forth later. If you're hiring a general contractor, they should handle the permit process, but verify that they've budgeted for plan review time and inspections in your timeline. Start the permit process before you order materials or schedule work — plan review can uncover changes that affect cost and timing.

Related permit guides

Other guides in the Kitchens & baths category:

Do I need a permit for a full bathroom remodel?