Do I need a permit for a full bathroom remodel in
McDonough, GA?

McDonough full bathroom remodel permits — the key details

McDonough Building Department requires a permit for any bathroom remodel that involves fixture relocation, new electrical circuits, exhaust fan installation, tub-to-shower conversion, or wall movement. The triggering rule is IRC P2706 (drainage and waste piping) and IRC E3902 (GFCI protection in bathrooms) — once you move a toilet, sink, or tub drain line, you must show code-compliant slope (1/4 inch per foot minimum), trap sizing, and vent routing on plans. If you're adding a new exhaust fan or replacing an existing one with a different size/location, IRC M1505 requires ducting to terminate outside the home's conditioned space (not into an attic or soffit), and McDonough inspectors are strict about this because warm, humid Georgia air pooling in attics causes mold. Pressure-balanced or thermostatic mixing valves are required for new or relocated tub/shower valves per IRC P2704, and you must specify the manufacturer and model on your permit application — generics get rejected. If you're converting a tub to a shower or vice versa, IRC R702.4.2 mandates a complete waterproofing assembly — cement board plus liquid membrane, or an engineered waterproofing system — and you'll need to show details on your plan, including the height of waterproofing (minimum 72 inches above the floor, or full height of the showerhead wall). McDonough's plan-review process flags missing waterproofing specs more than any other bathroom item, so this is worth submitting with manufacturers' product data sheets attached.

The permit fee for a full bathroom remodel in McDonough typically runs $300–$600 depending on the project's declared valuation. Georgia law bases residential permit fees on a percentage of the total project cost (labor plus materials); McDonough's current fee is approximately 1.5–2% of valuation for interior work, so a $20,000 remodel costs $300–$400 in permit fees. This is lower than some metro Atlanta jurisdictions (Marietta or Atlanta proper charge closer to 2.5%), which is a local advantage if you're budgeting. You'll also need to budget for plan preparation — if you're hiring a general contractor, they typically roll permit and plan costs into their bid. If you're owner-building, hiring a draftsperson or using a software plan template will run $200–$500. Inspections are free once the permit is issued, but repeated failed inspections can slow your timeline; McDonough averages 2–3 inspections per bathroom remodel (rough plumbing, rough electrical, final), and each inspection must be scheduled 24 hours in advance through the online portal or by phone.

Lead-paint disclosure applies to any home built before 1978. Georgia law requires that you provide tenants or buyers with a lead-hazard information pamphlet and written notice before commencing any work that disturbs painted surfaces. McDonough's permit office will ask for proof of lead-hazard notification on the permit application if your home is pre-1978, and work cannot legally start until the owner signs and returns the disclosure. If you're doing a full gut (removing drywall, tile, fixtures), disturbing activities are presumed; if you're surface-only work, the rule still applies to anything that chips, sands, or removes paint. Violations carry significant fines (Georgia penalties are $1,000–$10,000 for failure to disclose), so this is not a gray area — confirm and document it upfront.

McDonough Building Department requires a pre-application conference for any owner-builder permit that includes mechanical or structural changes (wall relocation, new ductwork, structural beam). This conference is a 30-minute sit-down with a plan examiner before you file formal plans; it costs nothing extra, but it adds 3–5 business days to your timeline. The purpose is to clarify code requirements and identify potential issues early, which saves rejections and re-submissions later. If you're hiring a licensed contractor, the contractor typically does this on your behalf, and turnaround is faster. Schedule this conference through the McDonough permit portal or call the Building Department directly; bring a rough sketch of your layout, fixture locations, and any mechanical/electrical changes you're planning.

Inspection timing is critical for bathroom remodels in the warm-humid climate zone 3A. If you're relocating fixtures or opening walls, you'll need a rough plumbing inspection before drywall closes in — this checks drain slopes, vent routing, trap seals, and underground piping (if applicable). If you're adding circuits or GFCI outlets, rough electrical inspection comes next and verifies wire sizing, circuit protection, and outlet placement. Final inspection happens after tile, fixtures, and exhaust fan are installed; the inspector verifies waterproofing at showers/tubs, exhaust fan termination outside the home, GFCI functionality, and pressure-balanced valve operation. McDonough's inspection staff typically complete reviews within 24–48 hours of request, but backlogs in spring/summer can stretch this to 4–5 days. Schedule inspections through the online portal when possible; in-person scheduling at City Hall (typically Mon–Fri, 8 AM–5 PM) is slower.

Three McDonough bathroom remodel (full) scenarios

Exhaust ventilation in warm-humid climates (Georgia Zone 3A)

McDonough sits in IECC Climate Zone 3A (warm-humid), which means summer moisture is a constant challenge. IRC M1505 requires bathroom exhaust fans to vent to the outdoors, not recirculate or dump into the attic. McDonough inspectors are particularly strict on this because attic moisture + summer heat + Piedmont clay-soil homes create ideal conditions for mold growth and structural rot. A common rejection is when a homeowner or contractor runs exhaust duct into the attic soffit, thinking it vents 'outside' — technically, warm attic air with moisture is just accumulating in your attic cavity. The code requires duct termination through an external wall or roof with a dampered terminal cap that prevents backdraft.

Sizing the exhaust fan to match your bathroom is critical. IRC M1505 requires 1 CFM per square foot of bathroom area (or 50 CFM minimum, 100 CFM for bathrooms with a tub and shower). A typical 5x8 bathroom (40 square feet) needs a 50 CFM fan; a larger master bath (80 square feet) needs an 80 CFM fan. McDonough's plan review will flag if your fan is undersized relative to the square footage. Duct diameter also matters: an 80 CFM fan should use 6-inch smooth duct minimum; 4-inch duct will choke the airflow and reduce efficiency. Flexible duct is permitted but should be insulated (R-6 minimum in warm climates) to reduce condensation on the duct exterior.

The run length of exhaust duct affects fan performance. Code allows duct to run up to 35 feet with no damper penalty, but every elbow or turn reduces effective length by an equivalent footage amount. McDonough inspectors verify duct termination details on final inspection by checking the exterior wall or roof cap visually and confirming the damper opens freely. If your bathroom exhaust fan is installed but not ducted to the exterior (i.e., it was previously recirculating into the HVAC return or soffit), you must replace the entire duct run as part of the remodel permit work — this is non-negotiable for a full bathroom renovation in McDonough.

Shower/tub waterproofing requirements and inspector red flags

IRC R702.4.2 mandates a waterproofing assembly for any shower or tub enclosure that includes a change in the waterproofing system — this applies to tub-to-shower conversions and any new shower or tub construction. McDonough inspectors will require you to specify the waterproofing method on your permit plans with product data sheets attached. The most common systems are: (1) cement board substrate + liquid membrane (RedGard, Hydroban, or equivalent), applied to walls 72 inches minimum above the floor; (2) engineered waterproofing systems like Schluter KERDI (a fabric membrane bonded to drywall or cement board); (3) pre-formed waterproof shower systems (some prefab units). Plain drywall with caulk is no longer acceptable per modern code, and McDonough's plan review explicitly flags 'drywall + paint' or 'drywall + caulk only' as non-compliant.

The height of waterproofing is specified in IRC R702.4.2: minimum 72 inches above the floor for walls opposite the showerhead, and full height of the wall containing the showerhead and controls. If your shower recess is 36 inches wide, the back wall (opposite showerhead) needs waterproofing to 72 inches; the side walls containing the showerhead controls need full-height protection. A common rejection occurs when a contractor waterproofs only the area that 'gets wet' — typically 48 inches — ignoring the code requirement for 72 inches on the far wall. McDonough inspectors check this on the rough framing inspection before drywall closes in (if using drywall + membrane) or after application (if using pre-formed systems).

Curb and base waterproofing is often overlooked. If your shower has a traditional tile curb or threshold, the waterproofing must extend under and behind the curb, not just above it. A sloped pan or waterproofing membrane must direct water into a weep hole or drain, not trap it at the curb. The curb slope should be 1/8 inch per foot minimum toward the drain. McDonough's final inspection includes a visual check of the curb drain and weep-hole placement, especially if the shower pan is custom-built (not a pre-formed unit). If the curb is built without a proper underlying pan, water will eventually seep into the substructure, causing rot and mold — this is why the inspection is stringent.

Common questions