Research by DoINeedAPermit Research Team · Updated May 2026
The Short Answer
A full bathroom remodel requires a permit if you're relocating plumbing fixtures, adding electrical circuits, converting a tub to shower, installing a new exhaust fan duct, or moving walls. Surface-only work (tile, vanity swap in place, faucet replacement) is exempt.
Highland Park enforces the current International Building Code and International Plumbing Code with specific local amendments that affect bathroom remodels more than you might expect in a neighboring suburb. The city's Building Department requires separate electrical and plumbing permits (not a bundled 'remodel' permit), which means your timeline stretches longer and your fee calculation is based on two valuation assessments, not one. Highland Park also has strict GFCI/AFCI enforcement in bathroom circuits—the city's plan-review staff flag missing arc-fault protection on 20-amp bathroom branches more than most North Shore communities, so your electrical plan must be explicit. If your home was built before 1978, lead-paint rules add a compliance layer during any wall disturbance. The city's online permit portal (accessible via the City of Highland Park website) allows e-filing for most bathroom remodels, but pre-1978 homes often trigger in-person intake to verify lead-safe work practices. Plan for 2–4 weeks of back-and-forth on plan review, especially if your shower waterproofing system isn't specified in detail (the city asks for cement-board-plus-membrane or equivalent).
What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)
- Stop-work orders carry $250–$500 fines in Highland Park, plus you'll owe double the original permit fee ($400–$1,600 total) when you finally pull the permit to legalize the work.
- Insurance claim denial: most homeowners policies exclude unpermitted plumbing or electrical work, leaving you $5,000–$15,000 out of pocket if a water leak or electrical fault occurs during the 'hidden' remodel.
- Lender or refinance blocks: when you sell or refinance, Highland Park's records pull up the unpermitted work (via permit history), and lenders require a retroactive inspection ($300–$600) or the work must be removed—forcing you to rip out tile and fixtures you just installed.
- Neighbor complaints trigger code-enforcement investigation (free for the complainant), and the city may require you to hire a third-party inspector ($400–$800) to certify unpermitted plumbing or electrical meets code before you're allowed to proceed.
Highland Park bathroom remodel permits — the key details
The threshold for a Highland Park bathroom permit is straightforward: if you move any plumbing fixture (toilet, sink, tub, shower), add a new electrical circuit, install a new exhaust fan with ductwork, change the tub/shower configuration (including waterproofing), or relocate walls, you need a permit. The city does NOT require a permit for cosmetic-only work—replacing a toilet in its existing location, swapping a vanity (same rough-in), or retiling walls without touching plumbing. However, the city's definition of 'cosmetic' is strict: if your vanity move involves moving the sink drain or supply lines even 6 inches horizontally, that's a fixture relocation and triggers a permit. The reason is IRC P2706 (drainage-fitting requirements) and local amendments requiring an inspector to verify trap-arm length, slope, and vent alignment. Many homeowners call the Building Department thinking their 'small' sink relocation is exempt, only to discover mid-project that Highland Park's inspectors require full plumbing plans if any drain or vent is touched. The moral: when in doubt, call the Building Department (phone number available via Highland Park's official city website) before demolition starts.
Electrical work in a bathroom remodel is where Highland Park's code gets stricter than the state minimum. Any new circuit must include Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) protection on 20-amp bathroom branches per NEC 210.12(B); the city's permit staff verify this on your electrical plan before approval. Additionally, all outlets within 6 feet of a sink, tub, or shower must have Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) protection per IRC E3902.1. Highland Park also requires a dedicated 20-amp circuit for bathroom outlets (not shared with other rooms), and if your remodel adds a second bathroom or bathroom-adjacent outlet, the city's electrical inspector will check that the circuit count matches your panel capacity. If you're upgrading from 100-amp to 200-amp service as part of the remodel, that's a separate electrical permit (roughly $250–$400). Many homeowners underestimate the cost of bringing old panel layouts into compliance—add $800–$1,500 for a licensed electrician to run new circuits and label the panel according to Highland Park's standards.
Plumbing fixtures must comply with IRC P2706 and local amendments regarding trap-arm length and vent sizing. When you relocate a toilet or sink drain in Highland Park, the inspector will measure the distance from the trap to the vent stack—that distance cannot exceed 30 inches horizontally (per IRC P3201.7), and the slope must be 1/4 inch per foot minimum. If your bathroom layout forces the trap arm to exceed the code length, you'll need a separate vent loop or branch vent, which adds $200–$500 in labor and materials. Tub or shower drains fall under the same rule. The city's plumbing inspectors are experienced with older North Shore homes (many built in the 1920s–1960s with cast-iron or clay drains), so they often ask for scope photos of the existing drain before you demolish walls. A common rejection: failing to submit a plumbing riser diagram showing trap-arm lengths and vent connections; the city will ask you to redraw and resubmit, delaying your review by 1–2 weeks.
Bathroom ventilation (exhaust fans) requires either IRC M1505.2 (mechanical exhaust fan ducted to exterior, minimum 50 CFM for a bathroom under 100 sq ft, 100 CFM if larger) or natural ventilation (operable window at least 10% of floor area, rare in full remodels). If you're adding or relocating an exhaust fan, the permit must include a ducting schematic showing the duct diameter, insulation type, termination location (soffit or roof, not attic or crawl space—Highland Park enforces this strictly due to moisture risk in the climate zone 5A winters), and the fan's CFM rating. A common mistake: installing an exhaust fan duct that terminates in the attic or soffit cavity instead of through the exterior wall or roof. Highland Park's inspector will fail the rough-electrical inspection if the duct termination isn't visible on the submitted plan. The cost of a proper ducting run (including damper and exterior trim) is $300–$800; many contractors underestimate this and then face re-work charges.
Waterproofing in shower or tub remodels is a frequent point of failure in Highland Park plan review. The city requires you to specify the waterproofing assembly: either cement board (per ASTM C1288) with a liquid or sheet membrane (per ASTM D4897 or D4541), or a pre-fabricated waterproofing system (e.g., Schluter, Wedi, Curbless). If your plans say 'standard shower' without specifying the waterproofing, the city will reject and ask you to resubmit with product specs and installation details. Lead-paint rules add complexity: if your home was built before 1978 and you're disturbing interior plaster or drywall (even if you're not removing walls, just opening walls for plumbing), Highland Park requires lead-safe work practices per EPA RRP Rule. Hire a certified lead-safe contractor for demolition, or complete the EPA RRP training yourself ($300–$500 online course). If you don't, the city can fine you $250–$1,000 and require you to hire a certified contractor retroactively. The permit fee reflects valuation: Highland Park typically charges 0.8–1.5% of the project cost for a bathroom permit (roughly $200–$800 for a $20,000–$50,000 remodel). Request a fee estimate from the Building Department before you pull the permit; they'll provide a ballpark based on your scope and materials list.
Three Highland Park bathroom remodel (full) scenarios
Scenario A
Toilet and vanity swap in existing locations, new tile, existing tub stays—north Highland Park mid-century ranch
Your 1960s ranch has a 5x7 bathroom with a toilet, pedestal sink, and cast-iron tub. You want to rip out the tile, install a new porcelain toilet in the same rough-in location, swap the pedestal sink for a 30-inch vanity in the same 4-inch-center drain hole, re-tile the walls, and replace the old chrome faucet. The existing vent stack serves the toilet and sink, and the tub drains to the same vent. No walls move, no new electrical circuits (the single 15-amp outlet stays in place), no new exhaust fan. This is a cosmetic remodel, and Highland Park does NOT require a permit because no fixtures are relocated and no mechanical systems are added. However, the moment you move the vanity 12 inches to the left to accommodate a larger cabinet, the drain relocation triggers a permit (plumbing plan required, $250–$400 permit fee). The tile removal and re-installation are cosmetic and do NOT trigger a permit, but if you discover rotted subfloor or old lead paint during demolition, you're required to stop work and notify Highland Park within 24 hours (pre-1978 lead-paint rule). Assume a 3-week timeline if no permit is pulled (just materials and labor); if you discover subfloor rot and must pull a permit, add 2–4 weeks for plan review and inspection scheduling. Cost: $3,000–$8,000 materials and labor, $0 permit fees, no inspections required.
No permit required (fixtures in-place) | Old pedestal sink relocation would trigger permit | Cast-iron tub drain—inspect for lead (pre-1978) | Tile and faucet swap exempt | Total project $3,000–$8,000 | $0 permit fees
Scenario B
Tub-to-shower conversion, relocated drain, new exhaust fan with duct—1978 Colonial on the lake side, Highland Park historic district
Your 1978 Colonial (just outside the lead-paint threshold, but Highland Park's 1-year grace still applies) has a 6x8 bathroom with a cast-iron tub (drain in the center back wall) and a small exhaust fan that vents into the attic (code violation). You want to replace the tub with a walk-in shower (drain relocated 3 feet to the left for ADA accessibility), install a new paneled waterproofing system (Schluter or equivalent), add a proper exhaust fan duct to the soffit, and open one wall for plumbing reroute. This requires THREE permits: plumbing, electrical, and building (structural for wall opening, even though it's non-load-bearing). The plumbing permit ($300–$400) covers the drain relocation; you'll submit a riser diagram showing the new trap-arm length (must stay under 30 inches), the vent connection, and slope. The electrical permit ($200–$300) covers the new exhaust fan circuit (20-amp, GFCI, AFCI-protected if on a 20-amp branch); the inspector will verify the damper and duct termination are shown on your plan. The building permit ($150–$250) covers the wall opening; you'll need a structural note (often boilerplate: 'non-load-bearing wall, no header required') and a site photo of the existing wall framing. The waterproofing system (Schluter or Wedi) must be specified on the plumbing plan with product name, thickness, and installation method. Assume 3–4 weeks for plan review (often the plumbing and electrical plans come back with mark-ups on the first round, requiring 1–2 days of revisions and resubmission). You'll have three inspections: rough plumbing (after drain and vent are stubbed in), rough electrical (fan circuit and damper), and final (after waterproofing, grout, and caulk). If your home is in Highland Park's historic district (many lake-side lots are), you may also need Historic Preservation Commission (HPC) approval for exterior exhaust duct termination, adding 2–3 weeks and a $50–$150 HPC review fee. Total timeline: 5–7 weeks. Cost: $8,000–$20,000 materials and labor, $650–$950 permit fees, $300–$600 inspections (third-party if HPC is involved).
Plumbing permit required (drain relocation) | Electrical permit required (new exhaust fan circuit) | Building permit required (wall opening) | Waterproofing system must be specified | Exhaust duct to soffit (not attic) | GFCI/AFCI on exhaust fan circuit | Possible HPC review if in historic district | 3-4 inspections required | Total project $8,000–$20,000 | Permit fees $650–$950
Scenario C
Partial wall removal, new second sink, relocated toilet, expanded bathroom—1950s cottage in west Highland Park, pre-1978 lead paint
Your 1950s cottage has a 4x6 bathroom wedged between the kitchen and bedroom. You want to remove the wall between the bathroom and a small closet (expanding the bathroom to 5x6), install a 48-inch double-sink vanity (relocating both sinks 4 feet left and adding a second sink drain), move the toilet 2 feet to the right (new trap and vent), add a second exhaust fan with ductwork, and upgrade from a 100-amp to a 150-amp electrical panel to accommodate two new 20-amp circuits (one for each sink area's outlets and one for the exhaust fans). This is a major remodel requiring plumbing, electrical, and structural building permits. The structural permit ($250–$400) covers the wall removal; since the wall is likely non-load-bearing (typical in 1950s cottages), you'll need a boilerplate structural note, but the city will ask for framing photos before approval to confirm there's no header or load. The plumbing permits ($400–$600) cover two relocated drains (both trap-arm lengths must be verified), a new vent loop for the second sink (if the existing vent is too far), and compliance with IRC P2706. The electrical permits ($400–$600) cover the panel upgrade, two new 20-amp circuits, GFCI/AFCI protection, and the two new exhaust fan circuits. Lead-paint compliance is mandatory: you must hire a certified lead-safe contractor for all wall demolition and interior plaster disturbance, or complete EPA RRP training yourself ($300–$500). If you attempt the work without lead compliance documentation, Highland Park can stop work and fine you $250–$1,000. The waterproofing system (for any new shower or tub area) must be specified in writing. Plan review takes 4–5 weeks due to structural and electrical complexities. Inspections: rough framing, rough plumbing, rough electrical (panel inspection), final plumbing, final electrical, and final building. If the panel upgrade requires an exterior meter adjustment, DTE (local utility) inspection is also required (1–2 weeks). Total timeline: 8–10 weeks. Cost: $20,000–$50,000 materials and labor, $1,200–$1,800 permit fees, $600–$1,000 inspections and lead compliance. A common mistake: homeowners underestimate the cost of panel upgrades and lead-safe work; budget an extra $2,000–$3,000 before starting.
Structural permit required (wall removal) | Plumbing permit required (two relocated drains, new vent) | Electrical permit required (panel upgrade, two new circuits) | Lead-safe work required (pre-1978 home) | Certified lead contractor or EPA RRP training mandatory | Waterproofing system must be specified | 6+ inspections required | Utility inspection likely required | 8-10 week timeline | Permit fees $1,200–$1,800 | Lead-safe work $800–$2,000 additional
Every project is different.
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City of Highland Park Building Department
Contact city hall, Highland Park, IL
Phone: Search 'Highland Park IL building permit phone' to confirm
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Disclaimer: This guide is based on research conducted in May 2026 using publicly available sources. Always verify current bathroom remodel (full) permit requirements with the City of Highland Park Building Department before starting your project.
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