Research by DoINeedAPermit Research Team · Updated May 2026
The Short Answer
A full bathroom remodel in Hays requires a permit if you're relocating any plumbing fixture, adding electrical circuits, installing a new exhaust fan, converting a tub to shower, or moving walls. Surface-only work—tile, vanity, or in-place fixture swaps—is exempt.
Hays enforces the 2015 International Residential Code (or current state adoption) through the City of Hays Building Department, and like most Kansas jurisdictions, requires permits for fixture relocation and new electrical work. What sets Hays apart from nearby cities like Salina or Manhattan is the Building Department's emphasis on plan submission upfront—they do not offer over-the-counter same-day permits for bathroom remodels with new plumbing or electrical; you must submit a plan (even simple sketches showing drain routing and GFCI placement) and expect 2–5 weeks review. Hays sits in climate zone 5A north/4A south with 36-inch frost depth, which matters less for interior bathroom work but becomes critical if the project involves exterior vent ducting. The city also applies Kansas's lead-safe work practices for any pre-1978 home, adding cost and timeline to demolition. Owner-builders may pull permits for owner-occupied homes, but the Building Department requires the same plans and inspections as licensed contractors—no shortcuts. If your project is surface-only (new tile, vanity replacement in the same footprint, faucet swap), no permit is needed; if anything moves or gets added electrically, you are in permit territory.

What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)

Hays bathroom remodel permits — the key details

The City of Hays Building Department enforces the 2015 International Residential Code (IRC) for bathroom remodels. The core rule: any change to plumbing fixture location, new electrical circuits, new exhaust fan installation, tub-to-shower conversion, or wall relocation requires a permit. IRC M1505 mandates exhaust fans rated for the bathroom's square footage (typically 1 CFM per square foot for wet areas or 50 CFM minimum) and requires ductwork termination to the exterior—no recirculation into the attic or soffit. IRC P2706 governs drain-pipe sizing and slope; a relocated toilet or lavatory drain must maintain 1/4-inch slope per foot and trap-arm length cannot exceed 6 feet from the vent stack (this is a frequent rejection reason in Hays reviews). IRC E3902 requires GFCI protection on all bathroom outlets within 6 feet of a sink or tub, and AFCI (arc-fault) protection on all 15- and 20-amp circuits serving the bathroom (bedroom circuits too, but not the bathroom circuit itself if it's a dedicated 20-amp bathroom circuit). Shower and tub waterproofing is governed by IRC R702.4.2: you must specify either a cement-board-and-membrane system (Schluter, Kerdi, etc.) or a pan liner with proper slope to drain. Hays does not accept unmembered drywall behind tub/shower—it must be moisture-resistant or cement-based backing. Pre-1978 bathrooms trigger Kansas's lead-safe work practices (dust containment, HEPA vacuuming, lab clearance post-demolition), adding $500–$1,500 to the timeline and cost.

Hays's Building Department does not issue over-the-counter bathroom permits. You must submit plans—at minimum, a rough floor plan showing old and new fixture locations, drain routing with trap-arm lengths marked, electrical layout showing GFCI/AFCI placement, and exhaust-fan duct termination point. The plan does not need to be stamped by an engineer or architect for owner-occupied residential work, but it must be clear enough for the inspector to understand the scope. Typical plan-review turnaround is 2–3 weeks; if the reviewer has comments (e.g., 'Trap arm exceeds 6 feet' or 'GFCI placement not shown on all affected outlets'), you'll revise and resubmit, adding another 1–2 weeks. Once approved, you receive a permit (valid for 6 months; construction must be substantially started within that window). Rough plumbing inspection happens after drain/water-supply rough-in and before drywall closes the walls; rough electrical inspection follows, then drywall, then final plumbing and electrical. Lead-safe work clearance testing (if required) happens before final occupancy.

Exemptions are narrow: surface-only work is permit-free. This means replacing a vanity in the same footprint, installing new tile or flooring, swapping a faucet or showerhead, replacing a toilet or sink in the existing location, painting, and even installing a pre-fabricated shower surround (if no new drains or electrical are involved) do not require permits. The moment you move a drain line, add a circuit, install a new exhaust fan, or cut into walls, you cross into permit territory. Some homeowners assume that patching drywall, running electrical inside existing walls, or adding a vent fan 'isn't a big deal'—Hays inspectors will cite it. Owner-builders are welcome to pull permits for owner-occupied homes; the Building Department will issue them without a contractor license, but the same plans, inspections, and code compliance apply.

Hays's climate and soil create two practical quirks. First, the 36-inch frost depth doesn't affect interior bathroom framing (bathrooms are indoors), but if your remodel includes relocating an exterior wall or adding a door, any new foundation or footer must respect that depth. Second, Hays sits on loess and expansive clay in the east side—settlement can cause cracks in tile or grout after a remodel if the foundation is unstable; inspectors do not approve remodels in homes with visible structural settling without a structural engineer's sign-off. Third, if your vent duct runs through an unconditioned attic in Hays (Zone 5A), it must be insulated to R-8 minimum to prevent condensation during winter; this is a code detail often overlooked in DIY plans but caught in review.

The typical cost for a Hays bathroom remodel permit is $300–$600, calculated as a percentage of the project valuation (1.5–2%). A $25,000 bathroom remodel might carry a $350–$400 permit fee plus $150–$250 inspection surcharges if rough-in re-inspections are needed. Timeline: plan submission to approval is 2–5 weeks, then construction (2–6 weeks depending on complexity), then inspections (1–2 weeks to schedule and complete). Total calendar time from permit pull to certificate of occupancy is typically 6–10 weeks. If the project is straightforward (no structural changes, simple fixture relocation, standard exhaust fan), inspections pass on first attempt, and no lead-safe work is required, you might finish in 5–6 weeks. Complications (rejected plans, lead clearance, foundation issues, three-piece toilet flange, etc.) can push 10–14 weeks. The City of Hays Building Department accepts permit applications in person at City Hall (620 E 10th St, Hays, KS 67601) or may offer online submission via their permit portal; confirm current submission method and inspector contact by calling 785-628-7377 (verify locally, as phone numbers change).

Three Hays bathroom remodel (full) scenarios

Scenario A
Moving a toilet and vanity in a master bath, new GFCI circuit, existing exhaust fan stays — west Hays bungalow
You're reconfiguring a 1960s master bathroom: moving the toilet from the east wall to the west wall (8-foot drain-line run), relocating the vanity from north to south wall (4-foot supply-line run), adding a dedicated 20-amp GFCI circuit for the vanity lights and outlets, and keeping the original exhaust fan (it's ducted and functional). This requires a permit because you're relocating plumbing fixtures and adding a new electrical circuit. Plan submission must show the old and new fixture locations, trap-arm length marked as 8 feet (acceptable—under the 6-foot max from vent stack, but you'll need to verify the vent stack location in relation to the new toilet; if the stack is more than 6 feet away horizontally, you'll need a vent branch or re-slope—common rejection), supply-line routing, and the GFCI circuit diagram. The Building Department will likely request clarification on vent-stack proximity and confirm GFCI protection extends to all outlets within 6 feet of the sink. Rough plumbing inspection happens after you've stubbed in the new drain and supply lines but before drywall; rough electrical inspection after the new circuit is roughed in. Lead-safe work applies if the home was built pre-1978 (most west Hays bungalows are 1950s–1970s), so you'll need containment and clearance testing post-demolition ($700–$1,200 added cost). Timeline: 3 weeks plan review, 3–4 weeks construction, 1 week inspection cycle. Permit fee: $350–$450 depending on valuation.
Permit required | Trap-arm length verification required | Lead-safe demo if pre-1978 | New GFCI circuit rough-in and final | Rough plumbing + rough electrical + final inspections | Permit fee $350–$450 | Total project cost $8,000–$18,000
Scenario B
Converting standalone tub to walk-in shower with new waterproofing membrane, no fixture relocation — downtown historic district
Your 1920s cottage in Hays's downtown historic district has a cast-iron tub you want to remove and replace with a curbless walk-in shower. The shower location stays in the same spot (no new drain run needed, existing P-trap is reused), but you're gutting the surround and installing a new waterproofing system: cement board + Schluter-Kerdi membrane + tile. This requires a permit because you're changing the waterproofing assembly (IRC R702.4.2 mandates a certified system for tub-to-shower conversions). Your plan must specify the exact waterproofing product (e.g., 'Schluter-Kerdi over 1/2-inch cement board with 6-mil polyethylene under-pan' or equivalent), drain pitch (1/4 inch per foot toward drain), and floor slope to drain. The Building Department will likely request a detail sketch showing the membrane-to-drain connection and confirmation that the existing drain is adequate for shower use (typically yes, but they verify). If the tub occupied the entire alcove and the new shower is smaller, you might need drywall repair outside the waterproofing zone—minor, but note it. Downtown historic-district overlay rules require that the shower surround match the home's architectural character (cosmetic, not code-related, but the Historic Preservation Commission may weigh in on tile/finish choices). No plumbing fixture is moving, so no trap-arm or vent issues. No new electrical circuits are needed if existing bathroom lighting and fan stay as-is. Rough waterproofing inspection (cement board + membrane) happens before drywall or tile; final inspection after grouting. Lead-safe demo applies (1920s home). Timeline: 2–3 weeks plan review, 2–3 weeks construction, 1 week inspections. Permit fee: $300–$400.
Permit required for waterproofing assembly change | Schluter-Kerdi or equivalent membrane required | Lead-safe demo clearance required | Rough waterproofing + final inspections | Downtown historic district—coordinate finish colors with Historic Preservation | Permit fee $300–$400 | Total project cost $5,000–$14,000
Scenario C
Full gut remodel: new vanity, toilet, tub-to-shower, dual exhaust fans, AFCI/GFCI circuits, new drywall — east Hays home on clay
You're completely gutting a 1980s master bathroom (10x12) in an east-side Hays home built on expansive clay. Scope: vanity relocates 4 feet, toilet moves 6 feet, tub is removed and replaced with a walk-in shower in a different corner (requiring new drain, new waterproofing membrane, new P-trap), existing single exhaust fan is upgraded to dual fans (one over shower, one over toilet area) with separate ducts to exterior, all electrical circuits are rerun as AFCI/GFCI (20-amp dedicated bathroom circuit), and interior walls are completely reframed and drywalled. This is a full permit project with nearly every IRC section in play. Plan submission must include: (1) floor plan showing old and new fixture locations; (2) plumbing schematic with trap-arm lengths, vent-stack location, and P-trap sizing; (3) electrical single-line diagram showing AFCI/GFCI panel connections, outlet placement (within 6 feet of sinks/tub); (4) exhaust-fan duct sizing (CFM, duct diameter, termination point); (5) waterproofing detail (membrane type, under-pan, drain connection); (6) framing plan noting any load-bearing wall changes. The Building Department will scrutinize trap-arm routing (must not exceed 6 feet from vent stack—common issue on dual-fixture remodels) and will request a structural engineer's review if any existing walls are removed (expansive-clay settlement is a concern in east Hays; if the home shows foundation cracks, the engineer may recommend underpinning or piers). Lead-safe work is mandatory. Rough plumbing, rough electrical, framing, and waterproofing inspections all occur sequentially. Timeline: 4–5 weeks plan review (structural review adds time), 4–6 weeks construction, 2–3 weeks inspections. Permit fee: $550–$750. Structural engineer review: $800–$2,000 if required.
Permit required for all systems | Structural engineer review likely (expansive clay soils) | Two exhaust fans with separate ducts required | AFCI/GFCI circuits detailed on plan | Waterproofing membrane specified and inspected | Lead-safe demo clearance | Rough plumbing + rough electrical + framing + waterproofing + final inspections | Permit fee $550–$750 | Total project cost $18,000–$40,000

Every project is different.

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Trap-arm length and vent-stack proximity in Hays bathroom remodels

IRC P2706 limits trap-arm length to 6 feet from the vent stack—this is the horizontal distance from the outlet of the trap to the nearest vent. In Hays, the Building Department enforces this strictly because plumbers often underestimate the distance and create undersized vents, leading to slow drains and backups. When you relocate a toilet or vanity, the rough plumbing inspector will measure the trap-arm run and verify it's within code. If your new toilet is 8 feet from the vent stack, you have two options: (1) shorten the run by repositioning the toilet closer to the stack, or (2) install a vent-relief line (a secondary vent that re-vents the trap arm midway). Option 2 adds complexity and cost but allows you to keep the layout you want. Most rejected Hays plans involve a trap-arm that exceeds 6 feet; anticipate this in your plan submission and mark the measurement clearly.

Hays inspectors also verify that vent stacks are sized correctly for the number of fixtures served. A single 2-inch vent can serve one toilet and one lavatory; if you add a shower, you may need a larger vent (3 inches) or a second vent line. This is determined by fixture-unit loading tables in the IRC, but the Building Department will calculate it during plan review. If your plan shows a trap-arm distance that looks borderline, preemptively include a note: 'Trap arm 6 feet from stack per IRC P2706' or 'Secondary vent-relief line installed to accommodate 8-foot run.' Clarity prevents rejections and re-submittals.

Shower waterproofing systems and the Hays inspector's checklist

IRC R702.4.2 requires a certified waterproofing system for any new shower enclosure. Hays inspectors do not accept 'tar paper' or 'standard drywall with caulk'—you must use an engineered system such as Schluter-Kerdi (uncoupling membrane), Wedi (foam board with membrane), a traditional PVC pan liner, or equivalent. The most common choice in Hays is cement board (1/2 inch) + waterproofing membrane (Schluter-Kerdi, Red Guard, etc.) + tile. Your plan must specify the exact product or equivalent code-approved alternative. During rough waterproofing inspection (after drywall is closed but before tile and grout), the inspector checks that (1) cement board is fastened securely with corrosion-resistant fasteners every 8 inches, (2) membrane is applied per the manufacturer's spec (overlaps, sealing at penetrations, etc.), (3) drain is connected with proper slope (1/4 inch per foot) to the P-trap, and (4) under-pan (6-mil poly or shower-pan liner) is in place beneath the floor area to catch any leakage. A frequent issue in Hays remodels is homeowners or contractors using standard drywall (green board) instead of cement board—this fails inspection. Another issue: the membrane is not sealed around the drain fitting, allowing water to bypass it. Hays inspectors will ask you to demonstrate the product's UL or ICC listing before approving the final.

If your shower enclosure is a prefabricated acrylic or fiberglass surround (not tiled), the waterproofing is built into the unit and no separate membrane is required—but the seal between the surround and the wall framing must be caulked with 100% silicone (not paintable caulk), and the plan should note this. Hays's 36-inch frost depth and dry climate mean condensation in showers is less of a winter concern than in northern climates, but exhaust-fan sizing remains critical: a 10x12 bathroom with a shower requires at least 80 CFM of exhaust fan capacity, and the duct must terminate to the exterior (not soffit, not roof, not attic). If the duct is not insulated and runs through an unheated space (rare in a bathroom, but possible if ducting to a soffit), it must be R-8 minimum to prevent condensation and duct breakdown.

City of Hays Building Department
620 E 10th St, Hays, KS 67601
Phone: 785-628-7377 (verify locally for current permit-application hours) | Check haysks.gov for online permit portal and submission details
Monday–Friday, 8 AM–5 PM (typical; confirm with city)

Common questions

Do I need a permit if I'm just replacing my vanity and faucet in the same location?

No. Vanity and faucet replacement in-place, without relocating supply lines or drains, is exempt from permitting in Hays. This falls under surface-only work. However, if you're moving the vanity more than a few inches or running new supply lines to a different wall, you cross into permit territory. When in doubt, call the Building Department to confirm your specific scope.

What's the difference between a 'bathroom remodel' and a 'bathroom renovation' in Hays's code?

Hays uses 'bathroom remodel' for fixture or system changes, 'renovation' sometimes for cosmetic work, but the code distinction hinges on scope: if you're touching plumbing, electrical, or structural elements, a permit is required regardless of terminology. A 'cosmetic bathroom refresh' (tile, paint, vanity in place) needs no permit; a 'full bathroom remodel' (fixture relocation, new systems) always does. The Building Department will classify your project based on the scope you describe, not your label.

I have a pre-1978 house. Does lead-safe work apply to my bathroom remodel?

Yes. Kansas and federal EPA rules mandate lead-safe work practices for any disturbance of pre-1978 surfaces—drywall, plaster, paint, flooring. For a bathroom remodel, this means containment during demolition, HEPA vacuuming, and post-demo clearance testing before you occupy the space. This adds $700–$1,500 to your timeline and cost. Hays inspectors will ask for a clearance report before issuing a certificate of occupancy. If you are a certified lead abatement contractor, you can self-perform; otherwise, hire a certified firm.

Can I pull a permit as the owner, or do I need a licensed contractor?

Hays allows owner-builders to pull permits for owner-occupied single-family homes, including bathroom remodels. You do not need a contractor license. However, the Building Department still requires the same plans, inspections, and code compliance; being an owner-builder does not exempt you from submitting detailed plans or passing inspections. You are responsible for ensuring all work meets code.

How long does plan review take for a bathroom remodel in Hays?

Typical plan review is 2–5 weeks, depending on complexity and completeness of your submission. If your plan is clear and complete (fixture locations, trap-arm lengths, GFCI placement, exhaust-fan duct details, waterproofing spec), expect 2–3 weeks. If the reviewer has questions or asks for revisions (e.g., trap-arm length exceeds 6 feet, vent sizing not shown, structural concerns), add 1–2 weeks per revision cycle. Submitting a thorough plan the first time saves you weeks of back-and-forth.

What happens during the rough plumbing inspection?

The rough plumbing inspection occurs after you've installed all drain lines, supply lines, and traps but before drywall closes the walls. The inspector checks (1) trap-arm distance from vent stack (max 6 feet), (2) vent-stack sizing and routing, (3) drain slope (1/4 inch per foot), (4) P-trap depth (min 2 inches of water seal), (5) supply-line support and isolation (shut-off valves accessible), and (6) for tubs/showers, the subfloor and under-pan are in place and draining properly. You must leave walls open for inspection; covering drywall before rough plumbing approval results in a failed inspection and forced removal. Schedule the inspection as soon as rough work is complete.

I'm upgrading from a single exhaust fan to two fans. Do both need separate ducts?

Yes, ideally. IRC M1505 allows a single duct to serve two fixtures if the fan is sized correctly (typically 100+ CFM for two wet areas), but best practice and local inspector preference in Hays is separate ducts—one over the toilet area, one over the shower—each terminating independently to the exterior. This ensures adequate CFM to each zone and prevents backdrafting. If cost is a concern, a single larger fan (140+ CFM) with a dual-outlet duct manifold can work, but confirm with the Building Department in your plan submission.

What does 'GFCI' vs. 'AFCI' mean, and which do I need in a bathroom?

GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) protects against electrical shock from water contact—required on all bathroom outlets within 6 feet of a sink, tub, or shower. AFCI (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter) protects against arcing and fire, required on all 15- and 20-amp circuits in bedrooms and—in updated codes—on bathroom circuits as well. Modern Hays permits typically require both GFCI protection (for outlets) and AFCI protection (for the circuit breaker or outlet). Your electrical plan must show both clearly, with outlet-location dimensions and circuit details.

Can I install a prefab acrylic shower surround instead of tile, and do I still need a waterproofing membrane?

Yes, prefab surrounds are code-approved and common in Hays. They do not require a separate waterproofing membrane because the surround itself is the waterproofing layer. However, you must seal all seams and edges with 100% silicone caulk (not paintable caulk), and the unit must be installed per the manufacturer's spec. The Building Department will still inspect the surround fit, seal, and drain connection before approving final. Prefab units can save time and money compared to a full tile installation.

How much does a bathroom remodel permit cost in Hays?

Hays calculates permit fees based on project valuation: typically 1.5–2% of the total construction cost. A $20,000 remodel incurs a $300–$400 permit fee; a $35,000 remodel, $500–$700. The Building Department will estimate the valuation from your plan submission or past similar projects. Additional inspection surcharges (re-inspections, special inspections, etc.) can add $50–$150 per occurrence. Payment is due at permit issuance; most do not accept permits without payment in full.

Disclaimer: This guide is based on research conducted in May 2026 using publicly available sources. Always verify current bathroom remodel (full) permit requirements with the City of Hays Building Department before starting your project.