What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)
- Wildwood Building Department can issue a stop-work order and fine $100–$500 per violation, plus require you to pull a permit retroactively and pay double permit fees (~$600–$1,400 total for a full remodel).
- Insurance claim denial: if water damage or electrical fire occurs in unpermitted work, most homeowners policies will not cover repairs, leaving you liable for $10,000–$50,000+ in water or fire remediation.
- Resale disclosure hit: Missouri requires sellers to disclose unpermitted work; buyers can sue for rescission or damages, or lenders will not refinance until the work is permitted retroactively.
- Neighbor complaint enforcement: if a neighbor reports unpermitted plumbing or electrical work, the city can issue a violation notice and demand compliance within 30 days; failure to remedy costs additional fines and possible lien attachment.
Wildwood full bathroom remodel permits — the key details
Wildwood adopts the Missouri State Building Code, which references the 2015 IBC and IRC. A full bathroom remodel triggers permitting whenever you move plumbing fixtures, add electrical circuits, install or replace an exhaust fan with new ductwork, convert a tub to a shower (or vice versa), or alter the room's framing or structural walls. The city's Building Department is the sole permitting authority; there is no overlap with county or state agencies for bathroom work unless the home sits in a designated flood zone (rare in Wildwood proper, but south-side properties near karst terrain may need additional foundation review). The permit application requires a site plan showing the bathroom location, fixture layout, and proposed changes. For electrical work, you must submit a one-line diagram or schedule showing circuit additions, breaker amperage, and GFCI/AFCI locations. For plumbing, show the new drain routing, trap arm lengths (max 30 inches horizontal run per IRC P2706.1), and venting strategy. For a tub-to-shower conversion, specify your waterproofing assembly: cement board + liquid membrane, schluter kerdi board, or equivalent; inspectors will verify the assembly blocks water intrusion to framing per IRC R702.4.2. If you are the owner-builder and the home is owner-occupied, Wildwood allows you to pull the permit yourself without hiring a licensed contractor for all trades; however, electrical work must still be signed off by a Missouri-licensed electrician. The permit fee is based on valuation: expect $300–$700 for a mid-range full remodel ($20,000–$50,000 scope). The city does not charge separate plan-review fees; review is included in the permit cost. Processing time is typically 2–4 weeks for initial review; if the department requests revisions, resubmission can add 1–2 weeks.
Electrical compliance in a Wildwood bathroom remodel centers on NEC 210.52 (countertop circuits), NEC 210.8 (GFCI protection), and IRC E3902. All countertop receptacles within 6 feet of a sink or water source must be GFCI-protected; Wildwood inspectors require either GFCI receptacles or a GFCI breaker protecting the entire circuit. If you are adding a new circuit for heated floor or additional lighting, that circuit must have a dedicated breaker and proper wire gauge (typically 12 AWG for 20A, 10 AWG for 30A). AFCI protection is required on all branch circuits in bedrooms; if your bathroom is adjacent to a bedroom or serves one, clarify whether the bathroom circuit requires AFCI. Wildwood's online portal allows you to upload electrical plans; most inspectors will flag missing GFCI notation immediately, so include a legend on your schematic. The rough electrical inspection happens after framing and before drywall; schedule it early to avoid rework. Final electrical inspection occurs after all outlets and fixtures are installed.
Plumbing and drainage rules in Wildwood hinge on trap arm and vent routing. If you relocate a toilet, the drain line must maintain a trap seal (the P-trap under the bowl) and cannot have a horizontal run exceeding 30 inches before the vent stack; longer runs require an auxiliary vent or sink-island vent per IRC P2706.1. Sink relocations are simpler if they tie into existing vent stacks; moving a sink away from the vent requires new vent penetration through the roof or a wet-vent configuration (one trap serving two fixtures) if code allows. The city requires a rough plumbing inspection before the wall is closed; inspectors verify all connections, trap seals, and vent terminations. For exhaust fan ducting, IRC M1505 mandates that the duct terminates outside (not in the attic) and that the run does not exceed 25 linear feet without losing 0.1 inches of static pressure; use rigid or semi-rigid duct, not flex ductwork, and slope it 1/8 inch per foot toward the exterior. Wildwood does not allow exhaust fans to terminate in the soffit if there is an attic above; termination must be through the roof or gable wall with a damper. The rough plumbing inspection can overlap with the rough electrical inspection; schedule both on the same day if possible to speed the process.
Waterproofing and materials for tub-to-shower conversion are critical in Wildwood bathrooms, especially in older homes. If you are converting a tub to a shower, you must install a waterproofing membrane behind the shower surround per IRC R702.4.2. The code accepts cement board + liquid-applied membrane, Schluter Kerdi board, or equivalent rigid waterproofing assembly. Do not use drywall or paper-faced gypsum board in a shower wall; these materials will deteriorate if water penetrates the tile. Inspect the existing wall framing for rot or damage before proceeding; if the subfloor or rim board shows water staining, inform the inspector and plan remediation. The tile installer must detail the drain pan (if applicable) and slope the shower floor 1/8 inch per foot toward the drain per IRC P2709. Wildwood inspectors often request a photo or written description of the waterproofing assembly before the tile is installed; do not skip this step. For tub conversions, confirm the valve spec with the inspector: if adding a pressure-balancing or thermostatic mixing valve, note the model and installation depth on your plumbing plan. Lead paint testing is required for homes built before 1978 in Wildwood; if the project disturbs paint, you must follow EPA RRP Rule procedures or hire a certified lead abatement contractor.
Timeline and inspection sequence for a Wildwood full bathroom remodel typically runs 6–10 weeks from permit issuance to final sign-off. Week 1: submit permit application with plans. Weeks 2–4: city plan review; expect one round of comments if the plumbing or electrical layout is unclear. Week 5: rough-in inspections (plumbing and electrical together if you schedule efficiently). Week 6–8: framing, drywall, waterproofing assembly, tile. Week 9: final inspection (all fixtures installed, exhaust fan ducted, electrical outlets and switches confirmed, plumbing drains clear, GFCI tested). The city does not require a drywall inspection if walls are not moving; if you are opening walls, drywall inspection is optional but recommended before finishing. Bring your permit card to each inspection and have the site clean and accessible. If the inspector finds a deficiency (e.g., duct not sealed, trap arm too long, missing GFCI), you have 7 days to correct it and request a re-inspection. Final approval is issued on-site or via email within 2 business days of the final inspection passing. Keep the permit card and inspection sign-offs for your records; they are required for resale disclosure and insurance purposes.
Three Wildwood bathroom remodel (full) scenarios
Wildwood's soil and drainage context: why the Building Department scrutinizes plumbing layout
Wildwood sits on loess soil (fine silt) in the northern part and alluvium (clay and silt) in the central areas; south of Wildwood, karst topography (sinkholes, subsurface drainage) begins. This geology affects how the Building Department reviews bathroom plumbing. Loess is relatively stable but can compress if water infiltrates; the city's frost depth is 30 inches, meaning drain lines must be buried or insulated below this depth if they are outside the building envelope. For interior bathrooms, this is not a concern, but if you are roughing in plumbing through a basement or crawl space, the inspector may ask about insulation on supply lines if they are exposed to freezing temperatures.
The karst terrain south of Wildwood (roughly south of Route 109) introduces sinkhole risk. If your home is in a sinkhole-prone zone and you are doing major plumbing work, the Building Department may request a foundation/drainage review before approving your permit. This is rare for interior bathroom remodels, but if the project includes new drain lines that exit the home to the septic or municipal sewer, the inspector will verify that the line slope and route do not exacerbate subsidence risk. The city has no special ordinance for karst, but inspectors are trained to flag unusual drainage patterns or foundation cracks.
For most Wildwood bathrooms, this means your plumbing plan should show clear drain slopes (1/8 inch per foot minimum), vent routing to the roof (not buried underground), and no changes to the main drain stack unless absolutely necessary. If you are adding a second-story bathroom or relocating drains in an existing upper floor, the inspector will verify that the new drain route does not create an overly long trap arm or improper vent configuration. Keep your plumbing simple: tie new fixtures into existing vent stacks where possible. If you must add a new vent, ensure it penetrates the roof, not the soffit or fascia.
Electrical compliance in Wildwood bathrooms: GFCI, AFCI, and circuit layout
Wildwood enforces NEC 210.52 and IRC E3902 for bathroom electrical. All countertop receptacles (outlets) must be GFCI-protected if they are within 6 feet of a water source (sink, tub, shower). Most Wildwood inspectors accept either a GFCI receptacle (the outlet itself has a GFCI button) or a GFCI breaker in the panel (which protects the entire circuit). If you are adding new countertop outlets, the simplest approach is to install GFCI receptacles; if you are reusing a single countertop circuit, a GFCI breaker is more economical. The maximum outlet spacing on a countertop is 4 feet; if your bathroom has a long counter, you may need multiple outlets, which means a larger circuit or multiple circuits.
AFCI (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter) protection is required on all branch circuits in sleeping areas per NEC 210.12; if your bathroom is adjacent to a bedroom or serves one, confirm whether the bathroom circuit requires AFCI protection. Most inspectors consider a bathroom a separate occupancy from a bedroom, so AFCI may not apply to bathroom-only circuits. However, if the bathroom is an ensuite, the lighting circuit may be classified as part of the bedroom circuit and require AFCI. Clarify this with the inspector during the pre-application meeting or in your electrical plan.
For a full bathroom remodel, your electrical plan should show all existing circuits (to verify available capacity), any new circuits you are adding, breaker amperage, wire gauge, and GFCI/AFCI locations. If you are adding a new 20-amp circuit for bathroom outlets, use 12 AWG wire and a 20-amp breaker; if you are adding a dedicated 240V circuit for a heated floor or vent fan, use 10 AWG wire and a 30-amp breaker (or larger, depending on the load). The city's online portal allows you to upload a one-line diagram or breaker schedule; include a legend showing GFCI and AFCI symbols. The rough electrical inspection happens after all wire is run and outlets are roughed in but before drywall; the inspector will verify wire runs, circuit integrity, and GFCI placement. Final electrical inspection confirms all outlets and fixtures are installed and GFCI outlets are functioning (most inspectors will test the GFCI button on-site).
City Hall, Wildwood, Missouri (confirm current address with city)
Phone: 636-458-0001 (main city line; ask for Building Department) | https://www.ci.wildwood.mo.us/ (check for online permit portal or submittal instructions)
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM–5:00 PM (verify with department)
Common questions
Can I pull a bathroom remodel permit myself as the homeowner in Wildwood?
Yes, if the home is owner-occupied, Wildwood allows owner-builders to pull permits. However, electrical work must be signed off by a Missouri-licensed electrician, and plumbing work may require a licensed plumber depending on scope; verify with the Building Department. Hiring a general contractor eliminates this restriction but adds cost.
What is Wildwood's typical permit fee for a full bathroom remodel?
Wildwood's permit fee is based on valuation: typically $300–$700 for a full bathroom remodel ($20,000–$50,000 project scope). The fee includes one round of plan review; revisions or resubmissions may incur additional review fees. Ask the Building Department for the current fee schedule.
How long does it take to get a bathroom remodel permit approved in Wildwood?
Plan review typically takes 2–4 weeks from submission. If the city requests revisions (e.g., GFCI layout, plumbing vent routing), resubmission can add 1–2 weeks. Once approved, rough inspections (plumbing, electrical) can be scheduled immediately; the full project timeline (permit to final sign-off) is usually 6–10 weeks.
Do I need a permit if I'm just replacing my bathroom vanity and faucet in place?
No. If you are swapping the vanity and faucet in the same location without relocating supply or drain lines, this is a surface-only replacement and does not require a permit. However, if the home was built before 1978, lead-paint compliance may apply under the EPA RRP Rule.
What happens if I convert a bathtub to a shower without a permit?
Tub-to-shower conversion is a permit-required project in Wildwood because it changes the waterproofing assembly per IRC R702.4.2. If you skip the permit and the city finds out, you may be fined $100–$500, forced to retroactively permit the work, and charged double permit fees. Additionally, water damage caused by improper waterproofing may not be covered by insurance if the work was unpermitted.
Can I install an exhaust fan in my bathroom without a permit?
If you are replacing an existing exhaust fan with a new unit in the same duct location, you may be able to do this without a permit as a like-for-like replacement. However, if you are adding a new exhaust fan or relocating the duct, a permit is required. The duct must terminate outside per IRC M1505; Wildwood does not allow ducts to terminate in the attic or soffit. Confirm with the Building Department before starting work.
What waterproofing products does Wildwood accept for a shower surround?
Wildwood accepts cement board + liquid-applied membrane, Schluter Kerdi board, or equivalent rigid waterproofing assemblies per IRC R702.4.2. Do not use paper-faced drywall or unprotected gypsum board in a shower wall; these materials will deteriorate if water penetrates the tile. Specify your waterproofing assembly on your plumbing plan, and request a pre-tile inspection from the Building Department.
Do I need to test for lead paint in my Wildwood bathroom if my home was built before 1978?
Yes, lead-paint testing is required if the home was built before 1978 and you are disturbing painted surfaces (walls, trim, vanity framing). You must follow EPA RRP Rule procedures: either hire a certified lead abatement contractor or obtain a renovator's license. Wildwood does not enforce the RRP Rule at the permit level, but you are liable for compliance if you are selling the home within 10 years.
What if I need to relocate the toilet drain more than 30 inches horizontally?
If the horizontal trap arm run exceeds 30 inches per IRC P2706.1, you must add an auxiliary vent (a smaller vent line) teed into the main vent stack to re-seal the trap and prevent siphoning. Your plumbing plan must show this vent routing. The rough plumbing inspector will verify the trap arm length and vent placement before the wall is closed.
Can I finish drywall before the plumbing and electrical rough inspections in Wildwood?
No. Drywall must not be installed until rough plumbing and rough electrical inspections pass. If you close walls before inspection, you risk having to tear out drywall and re-inspect, which delays the project and adds cost. Schedule rough inspections as soon as framing is complete, then proceed to drywall.
More permit guides
National guides for the most-asked homeowner permit projects. Each goes deep on code thresholds, common rejections, fees, and timeline.
Roof Replacement
Layer count, deck inspection, ice dam protection, hurricane straps.
Deck
Attached vs freestanding, footings, frost depth, ledger, height/area thresholds.
Kitchen Remodel
Plumbing, electrical, gas line, ventilation, structural changes.
Solar Panels
Structural review, electrical interconnection, fire setbacks, AHJ approval.
Fence
Height/material limits, sight triangles, pool barriers, setbacks.
HVAC
Equipment changeouts, ductwork, combustion air, ventilation, IMC sections.
Bathroom Remodel
Plumbing rough-in, ventilation, electrical (GFCI/AFCI), waterproofing.
Electrical Work
Subpermits, NEC sections, panel upgrades, GFCI/AFCI, who can pull.
Basement Finishing
Egress, ceiling height, electrical, moisture barriers, occupancy rules.
Room Addition
Foundation, footings, framing, electrical/plumbing extensions, structural.
Accessory Dwelling Units (ADU)
When permits are required, code thresholds, JADU vs ADU, electrical/plumbing/parking rules.
New Windows
Egress, header sizing, structural cuts, fire-rating, energy code.
Heat Pump
Electrical capacity, refrigerant handling, condensate, IECC compliance.
Hurricane Retrofit
Roof straps, garage door bracing, opening protection, FL OIR product approval.
Pool
Barriers, alarms, electrical bonding, plumbing, separation distances.
Fireplace & Wood Stove
Hearth, clearances, chimney, gas line work, NFPA 211.
Sump Pump
Discharge location, electrical, backup options, plumbing tie-in.
Mini-Split
Refrigerant lines, condensate, electrical disconnect, line set sleeve.