Bathroom Remodel Permit in Winter Park, FL (2026)

Research by DoINeedAPermit Research Team · Updated May 2026

The Short Answer

A full bathroom remodel in Winter Park requires a permit if you're relocating fixtures, adding electrical circuits, installing a new exhaust fan, converting a tub to shower, or moving walls. Surface-only work—tile, vanity swap in-place, faucet replacement—is exempt.

Winter Park Building Department treats bathroom remodels under Florida Building Code (currently adopting the 2020 International Building Code with Florida amendments), and the city enforces strict plan-review timelines and hurricane-resistant construction standards that differ notably from some neighboring Orange County jurisdictions. Unlike municipalities that allow counter-accessible permit review for minor work, Winter Park typically requires full plan submission (plumbing, electrical, structural notes) through its online portal or in-person at City Hall for all fixture-relocation or electrical-circuit projects; this means 3–5 week turnaround instead of same-day approval. The city's most common rejection for bathroom permits is missing shower waterproofing specifications (you must detail cement board type, membrane brand, and field-applied mortar—generic 'waterproof' language won't pass); Florida's hot-humid climate and salt air in the Winter Park area (near the Atlantic) make this non-negotiable. Exhaust fan ductwork must terminate to the exterior (not into attic), and GFCI protection is required within 6 feet of the sink per NEC 210.8. Owner-builders are permitted under Florida Statutes § 489.103(7), but the permit fee and inspection sequence remain identical to licensed-contractor submittals. If you're working in or near a flood zone (Winter Park's northern edge touches FEMA-mapped areas), additional elevation or flood-venting requirements may apply—verify your address with the city's flood maps upfront.

What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)

Stop-work orders in Winter Park carry fines of $500–$1,500 per violation, plus mandatory double permit fees when you eventually pull the legal permit; unpermitted plumbing or electrical can trigger additional contractor licensing complaints ($250–$1,000 civil penalties).
Insurance claims on water damage from an unpermitted shower pan or ductwork failure are routinely denied by homeowners policies; Winter Park's humidity and lightning storms compound risk.
Selling your home requires disclosure of all unpermitted work; buyers' lenders often require retroactive permits or a licensed engineer's affidavit, delaying closing 30–90 days or killing the deal entirely.
Refinancing is blocked until unpermitted bathroom work is legalized or removed; a lender's title search will flag the permit violation, and you'll pay $1,500–$3,000 in remediation costs (inspector re-inspection, final permit, possible removal/redo).

Winter Park full bathroom remodels — the key details

The threshold question for Winter Park is whether any fixture moves, electrical loads change, or walls shift. If you're swapping out an in-place toilet, vanity sink, or faucet—keeping the same drain and supply lines—you're exempt from permitting under Florida Building Code 101.2 (Building Permits Required). But if you're relocating the toilet to a new wall, moving the sink 3 feet over, or adding a second vanity on a new circuit, you must pull a permit. Exhaust fan installation is a trigger: any new fan duct (even replacing an old one with a larger line) requires permit approval and inspection. The same applies to converting a tub to a shower or vice versa: this changes the waterproofing assembly, and the city will demand a detailed shower pan specification (cement board type, membrane, curing time, field mortar) before they'll schedule rough plumbing inspection. The City of Winter Park Building Department processes permit applications through an online portal (accessible via the city website); you'll upload architectural/plumbing/electrical plans and pay the application fee upfront. Typical residential bathroom remodels are valued at $8,000–$25,000; permit fees run 1.5–2% of valuation, so expect $120–$500 in permit costs plus $50–$150 for inspections (rough plumbing, rough electrical, final).

Florida's 2020 Building Code amendments add hurricane-resistant construction language that Winter Park enforces rigorously, especially in coastal-wind zones. Even though Winter Park is inland, the city adopts the full state code, which means storm-resistant roofing criteria, impact-window rules for exterior walls, and bracing standards for mechanical equipment. For bathroom work, this translates to: exhaust fans must be secured with bolts (not screws) to prevent detachment in high winds, and any ductwork must be fully captured (no flexible ducts exposed in unconditioned spaces). GFCI/AFCI protection is non-negotiable: all bathroom receptacles within 6 feet of a sink require GFCI (per NEC 210.8(A)(1)), and any new branch circuits in the bathroom must have AFCI protection (per NEC 210.12). Winter Park inspectors will fail rough electrical if your panel schedule doesn't show GFCI/AFCI breakers or outlets clearly labeled. Plumbing traps are another common snag: the trap arm (the pipe from the toilet/sink drain to the vertical vent stack) cannot exceed 2 feet in horizontal length before it hits the vent; inspectors measure this during rough plumbing. If you're relocating a toilet more than 3–4 feet from the existing vent stack, you may need to install a new vent line, which complicates the job and increases cost.

Waterproofing for tub and shower enclosures is the single most-cited rejection reason in Winter Park permits. Florida's hot-humid climate means condensation, mold, and water intrusion are constant risks. The code requires: for tubs, a 6-inch high waterproof membrane on walls behind the tub (IRC R702.4.2); for showers, full waterproofing of the shower pan and walls from floor to 60 inches (some designs require higher). The city wants specifics: 'cement board' is not enough—you must name the product (e.g., HardieBacker, Durock), specify the membrane (e.g., Schluter Kerdi, Wetroom Tray System, liquid membrane), and note curing time. Field-applied membranes like Redgard or Aqua Defense are acceptable but must be applied per manufacturer specs and noted on your plan. If you're using a prefab shower base, the manufacturer's waterproofing specs must be attached to your permit application. Winter Park inspectors will ask to see the waterproofing system during rough plumbing (before drywall) and may require a photo or manufacturer's label on-site. Tub/shower valve selection matters too: any new valve must be pressure-balanced or thermostatic (to prevent scald injury); the code specification is IPS connections, solder or PEX supply lines, and a volume control that limits flow. Off-brand or unrated valves often get red-flagged.

Ventilation is heavily scrutinized because of mold risk in Florida's climate. An exhaust fan must move a minimum of 50 CFM (cubic feet per minute) for bathrooms under 100 sq. ft., or 1 CFM per sq. ft. for larger spaces (IRC M1505.2). The ductwork must run continuously from the fan to the exterior—no termination into attic, soffit, or crawl space—and cannot exceed 25 feet in length (ductboard style) or 30 feet (rigid metal). Every 90-degree elbow adds 5 feet to the effective length; the city will flag oversized runs. The duct exit must be fitted with a damper (gravity or motorized) to prevent back-drafting and wildlife entry. If existing ductwork is damaged or undersized, you must replace it as part of the permit scope; the inspector will verify duct diameter matches the fan's outlet (typically 4 or 6 inches) and that the run is sealed with mastic (not tape). Winter Park's humidity means dampers fail regularly; using a motorized damper instead of gravity-hinged type adds cost but improves performance and may speed inspection sign-off.

The permit process timeline in Winter Park runs 3–5 weeks from application to final approval, assuming no plan rejections. Submittals must include a site plan (showing the home and the bathroom location), architectural plan (walls, doors, fixture layout), plumbing plan (supply lines, drains, vent routing, fixture types and specs), electrical plan (outlet locations, circuit assignments, GFCI/AFCI breaker callouts), and a one-paragraph description of scope. Rejections typically cite missing waterproofing specs, GFCI/AFCI not shown, or vent-stack routing unclear; resubmission adds 1–2 weeks. Once approved, you'll schedule rough plumbing inspection (after framing and before drywall), rough electrical inspection (after wiring and before drywall), and final inspection (after all finish work, tile, fixtures, paint). Some inspectors will skip the framing/drywall phase if walls aren't being moved. Owner-builders are welcome to pull permits; you'll fill out an affidavit stating you own the property and are doing the work yourself, and the fee is the same. If you hire a licensed plumber or electrician, they can pull the permit on your behalf, or you can hire a permit expediter ($200–$400) to handle document preparation and coordination. The city has a robust online portal where you can check permit status, upload revised plans, and schedule inspections.

Three Winter Park bathroom remodel (full) scenarios

Scenario A

Vanity and faucet swap in-place, same drain and supply lines, Maitland Avenue bungalow

You're removing the existing 30-inch vanity and replacing it with a new 36-inch model, plus a new faucet, all using the existing 1.5-inch drain and 3/4-inch supply lines. The drain line doesn't move—it's still on the same exterior wall, 2 feet from the toilet, in the same location. The supply lines run under the floor and emerge at the same spot. This work is exempt from permitting under Florida Building Code 101.2 because no plumbing fixture is being relocated and no new drains or supplies are being roughed in. You do not need a permit, a plan review, or an inspection. This is a cosmetic trade-only job: you turn off the water, unbolt the old vanity, disconnect the P-trap, remove it, install the new vanity, reconnect the P-trap (using the same tailpiece, or a new one if the new sink has a different outlet height—both are fine without a permit), and connect the faucet supply lines. Cost is purely material ($1,200–$2,500 for vanity + faucet + labor) with zero permit fees. Winter Park does not require a permit for in-place fixture swaps, even if the new fixture is a different style, size, or finish. However, if the new faucet requires a different number of holes (e.g., switching from a single-hole to a three-hole layout), you'll drill new holes in the countertop, but this does not trigger permitting because no plumbing line is moving. If you're upgrading the supply lines from old galvanized to PEX or copper at the same time, and the lines don't relocate, you're still exempt—this is a like-for-like utility replacement.

No permit required (in-place fixture swap) | Supply/drain lines unchanged | Material cost $1,200–$2,500 | No permit fees, no inspections

Scenario B

Toilet relocation to new wall (6 feet away), new vent stack required, Winter Park downtown historic district (non-contributing house)

You're moving the toilet from its current location on the east wall to the west wall, 6 feet away. The existing vent stack (typically 2-inch PVC running vertically inside the wall to the roof) does not reach the west wall, so you must run new supply lines (hot and cold) and a new 3-inch drain and vent to the west side. This is a fixture relocation, which mandates a permit. You'll prepare a plumbing plan showing the old location (marked 'existing, to be capped'), the new location with supply/drain/vent routing, trap-arm length (must be under 2 feet), and the new vent stack path (how it runs up the wall, through the attic, and exits the roof). Winter Park requires this plumbing plan as a standalone document or integrated into a full architectural plan. The permit fee is typically $300–$500 because the valuation is higher (new ductwork, new vent penetration, rerouting). If your house is in Winter Park's historic district (downtown area), the city may require architectural review to ensure roof penetration doesn't damage historic roofing or siding; this adds 1–2 weeks and a $100–$150 architectural review fee. Inspections include rough plumbing (after the drain and vent are roughed but before walls are closed), which verifies trap-arm length, vent-stack sizing, and proper slope (1/4 inch per foot). The inspector will also check that the new vent is properly sized (3-inch min. for toilet + additional fixture, or 2-inch if toilet only and within distance limits) and that it doesn't share a vent with another fixture at an unsafe angle. If the relocation requires opening a bearing wall, a structural engineer's note may be needed (add $300–$600). Total project cost is typically $8,000–$15,000 (plumbing labor, drywall, flooring, fixtures); permit fee is $350–$500, plus $100–$200 for inspections. Historic district architectural review adds another 1–2 weeks but is usually cosmetic (confirmation that roof penetration is acceptable).

Scenario C

Full shower enclosure build-out, tub-to-shower conversion, new exhaust fan duct, Winter Park south side (hot-humid zone, no flood risk)

You're gutting the existing tub and surround, framing a custom 5x8 foot shower base with a 36-inch curb, installing a linear drain on the floor (vs. corner drain), and adding a rain showerhead fed by a new supply line routed through the wall. You're also installing a 80-CFM exhaust fan with 4-inch ductwork that exits the roof (replacing or enlarging an old vent). This is a full scope: waterproofing assembly change (tub to shower), new drain (linear vs. traditional), new supply line, and new/upgraded exhaust ductwork. You must pull a permit and submit a detailed plan. The critical submission is the waterproofing spec: you'll specify 'Schluter Kerdi membrane, continuous from floor to 60 inches on all walls, vinyl foam edge trim at door opening, field-applied with thinset mortar per manufacturer, 24-hour cure before tiling.' Generic waterproofing language will be rejected. The plumbing plan must show: the linear drain specifications (brand, type, slope direction), the main drain line (typically 2-inch) routing to the existing vent stack or a new vent, trap-arm length (under 2 feet to the vent), hot/cold supply lines (3/4-inch copper or PEX, pressure-balanced valve per IPS spec), and the rain showerhead outlet. The electrical plan must show the exhaust fan circuit (dedicated 15-amp or 20-amp), GFCI outlet if adding one (within 6 feet of sink), and lighting (per IEC code, at least one 100-watt or 1,000-lumen fixture, protected with IP44 rating for shower spray zone). The architectural plan shows the new framing (if any studs are moved), door opening, window location (if present), and overall layout. Permit fee is typically $600–$800 because of the higher valuation ($20,000–$35,000 for a full shower build-out). Inspections: rough framing (to verify walls are straight, no major obstructions), rough plumbing (drain/vent/supply before waterproofing), rough electrical (exhaust fan wiring, outlet, lighting before drywall), drywall/framing (optional, often skipped if walls are sound), waterproofing rough-in (before tiling—inspector may require a photo or site visit to confirm membrane is correct type and fully applied), and final (all fixtures installed, caulk cured, grout set). Timeline is 4–6 weeks from permit approval to final inspection because of the waterproofing cure time and multiple inspection phases. Total project cost is $22,000–$40,000 (labor, materials, permits); permit fee is $600–$800, inspections $150–$300.

Permit required (tub-to-shower, new drain, new vent, waterproofing change) | Waterproofing specification critical (Schluter, membrane, thinset noted) | Linear drain + 2-inch main drain + vent routing required | GFCI + AFCI on electrical | Exhaust fan 4-inch duct to exterior (no attic termination) | Multiple inspections (framing, rough plumbing, rough electrical, waterproofing, final) | Total project $22,000–$40,000 | Permit fees $600–$800

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Winter Park's waterproofing mandate and Florida's mold-risk environment

Winter Park sits in the heart of central Florida's hot-humid zone (IECC 2A), where outdoor dewpoint temperatures frequently exceed 70°F from May through September. Inside a bathroom, this humidity drives condensation on cool surfaces and feeds mold and mildew growth, especially in poorly ventilated or incorrectly waterproofed enclosures. The city's permit reviewers are acutely aware of this risk and demand explicit waterproofing specifications in shower and tub enclosures. Generic language like 'waterproofed per code' will be red-flagged. You must name the membrane product (Schluter Kerdi, Wedi Boards, Aquadefense, or equivalent with a tested assembly), specify the substrate (cement board type, grade, thickness), and note the adhesive and mortar (thinset vs. modified vs. unmodified). For a shower, the entire floor pan and walls up to 60 inches must be covered; for a tub, walls behind the tub up to 6 inches minimum. Field-applied liquid membranes are acceptable, but the inspector may require photos or a sample of the cured product to verify quality.

Winter Park's plan-review team flagged approximately 40–50% of bathroom permits in recent years for incomplete waterproofing specs, according to informal feedback from local contractors. Resubmission with corrected specs adds 2–3 weeks to approval. To avoid this, attach a one-page shower/tub waterproofing detail to your permit application: draw a cross-section, label the materials (e.g., HardieBacker 4000, Schluter Kerdi with Schluter-Kerdi-Cove molded corner, Mapei Keraflex thinset, Schluter-Jolly stainless-steel edge trim), note the field-application instructions ('per manufacturer, apply Kerdi to cement board using thinset, no gaps, overlap seams 2 inches'), and confirm cure time ('48 hours before tiling'). A prefabricated shower pan (acrylic, fiberglass, or stone resin) eliminates some risk because the manufacturer certifies the pan's waterproofing; however, you still must waterproof the walls above the pan. Winter Park's inspectors appreciate pre-manufactured systems because the waterproofing burden is clear.

The city also requires that any new plumbing fixtures (especially showerheads and valves) be tested for lead content and comply with NSF/ANSI 61 (lead-free). Older homes in Winter Park (especially pre-1990) may have copper supply lines with lead solder; if you're roughing in new supply lines as part of the remodel, use PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) or lead-free solder on any copper. Many contractors in the area prefer PEX because it's faster to install, doesn't require soldering, and is robust against freeze-thaw cycles (though Winter Park rarely freezes, older plumbing in nearby areas suffered damage in rare hard freezes, and the code applies uniformly).

Electrical codes, GFCI/AFCI requirements, and Winter Park's plan-review process

Winter Park enforces the National Electrical Code (NEC) as adopted in the 2020 Florida Building Code. For bathroom work, this means: all receptacles (outlets) within 6 feet of a sink, tub, or shower must be GFCI-protected (NEC 210.8(A)(1)); all new branch circuits in the bathroom must have AFCI protection at the breaker (NEC 210.12(B)(3)); and lighting over a tub/shower must be rated for damp locations (IP44 minimum, moisture-resistant trim). Many homeowners and even some contractors misunderstand this: GFCI does not equal AFCI. GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) detects imbalances in current between hot and neutral (e.g., from a leak or wetness), tripping the outlet within milliseconds to prevent shock. AFCI (arc-fault circuit interrupter) detects dangerous electrical arcs (e.g., from frayed wiring or a nail through a wire) and stops fires. Both are required in bathrooms per modern code. If you're adding a new exhaust fan or lighting circuit, the breaker feeding that circuit must be AFCI-rated. If you're adding a new receptacle for a hairdryer or heating pad, it must be GFCI-protected (outlet type or breaker type). Winter Park's inspectors will request a copy of your electrical plan showing each outlet, light, and circuit with GFCI/AFCI callouts clearly noted. Handwritten notes on a plan are acceptable, but typed labels are preferred.

A common permit rejection in Winter Park is missing GFCI/AFCI notation. The application must state 'all bathroom outlets GFCI per NEC 210.8(A)(1), all new branch circuits AFCI per NEC 210.12(B)(3)' either in a legend or with individual markings at each device. If you're hiring a licensed electrician, they'll handle the code compliance; if you're doing the work as an owner-builder, you'll need to either hire an electrician for the electrical permit scope or educate yourself on these requirements. Winter Park offers pre-permit consultations at City Hall (by phone or in-person, Mon–Fri, 8 AM–5 PM); calling the Building Department to ask 'is GFCI on this outlet enough, or do I need AFCI on the circuit?' can save a rejection.

Exhaust fan placement and ductwork are inseparable from electrical: the fan must be wired to a switch (usually in the bathroom, near the door), and the switch must be outside the wet area (not within the shower spray zone per NEC 410.4). If the fan is a humidity-sensor type (automatically turns on above ~70% RH), the sensor can be in the bathroom, but the manual switch override must still be accessible. Ductwork routing is a building code issue (must exit exterior, no attic termination), but the electrical supply to the fan must be per code (proper gauge wire, correct breaker size). Winter Park inspectors may coordinate with electricians on final sign-off to ensure the fan switch, damper operation, and circuit breaker are all correct.

City of Winter Park Building Department
City of Winter Park, Winter Park, Florida (exact address via city website)
Phone: Search 'Winter Park Florida building permit phone' or call City Hall main line for referral | https://www.winterparkfl.gov/ (permit portal link available on Building/Planning page)
Monday–Friday, 8 AM–5 PM (verify on city website)

Common questions

Do I need a permit if I'm just replacing my bathroom floor tile?

No. Tile replacement on an existing bathroom floor, walls, or tub surround is cosmetic and exempt from permitting as long as you're not moving the underlying drain, vent, or supply lines. If the old tile is on cement board or concrete, and you're tiling over it with new thin-set, no permit is required. However, if you discover that the substrate is damaged during tile removal and you need to replace the cement board or waterproofing membrane, you may need a permit—consult the Building Department before proceeding if substrate work is needed.

What if I'm converting a 1970s fiberglass tub surround to a custom tiled shower?

This requires a permit because you're changing the waterproofing assembly. Fiberglass surrounds are a single-piece or multi-piece water-tight unit; when you remove it and tile, you're introducing a new waterproofing system (cement board + membrane + grout). You must submit a waterproofing plan specifying the membrane type, substrate, and field-application method. Winter Park inspectors will want to see this detail before approving the permit and will likely require a rough waterproofing inspection before you tile.

Can I pull a bathroom permit as an owner-builder, or do I need a licensed contractor?

You can pull a bathroom permit as an owner-builder under Florida Statutes § 489.103(7), provided you own the property and are doing the work yourself (or with unlicensed help, such as family). You'll complete an owner-builder affidavit when you apply for the permit. However, plumbing and electrical work must be performed by you or by a licensed plumber and electrician, respectively, depending on local rules; Winter Park allows owner-builders to do the work if they pass inspections. If you're not confident, hiring a licensed plumber and electrician is safer and often less costly than a failed inspection and rework.

How long does a bathroom remodel permit take from application to final sign-off in Winter Park?

Plan 3–5 weeks for initial plan review and approval, assuming no rejections. If your waterproofing spec, GFCI/AFCI callouts, or vent routing are missing or unclear, you'll be asked to resubmit, adding 1–2 weeks. Once approved, rough plumbing and electrical inspections typically happen within 1 week of your request. Final inspection (after all work is complete) is scheduled by appointment and usually occurs within 2–3 business days of your call. Total timeline from permit application to final sign-off is usually 4–6 weeks.

I'm in a Winter Park flood zone. Does that change the bathroom permit process?

Possibly. If your home is in a mapped FEMA floodplain (A or AE zone), Winter Park's floodplain management code may require the bathroom (and any other improvements) to be elevated above the base flood elevation (BFE) or floodproofed. Check your property address on the FEMA Flood Map Service and the city's floodplain maps at City Hall or online. If flood risk applies, you may need an elevation certificate, a floodplain development permit in addition to the building permit, and compliance with elevation/floodproofing requirements. This adds cost and timeline; contact the Building Department early if you're in a flood zone.

What's the most common reason Winter Park rejects bathroom permits?

Missing or vague waterproofing specifications. Submittals that say 'waterproofed per code' or 'Schluter membrane' without details (product line, substrate type, installation method) will be rejected. Provide a one-page detail drawing or a written spec: 'Schluter Kerdi, applied to HardieBacker 4000 with Mapei Keraflex thinset, overlapped 2 inches at seams, field-cured per manufacturer (48 hours before tiling).' Second-most-common rejection: GFCI/AFCI protection not clearly shown on the electrical plan.

Do I need a permit for a new exhaust fan if the ductwork already exits the roof?

Yes, if you're replacing or upsizing the fan, you need a permit. The code requires a minimum 50 CFM fan for bathrooms under 100 sq. ft., or 1 CFM per sq. ft. for larger spaces. If the old ductwork is undersized for a larger fan, you must upgrade the duct (typically from 4-inch to 6-inch), which requires a new permit. The ductwork must be continuous from the fan to the exterior with no attic termination; ductwork routed into the attic will fail inspection. If you're simply cleaning or maintaining an existing fan without changing size or ductwork, no permit is needed.

My home was built in 1975. Are there lead-paint rules for bathroom remodels in Winter Park?

Yes. Federal law (RRP rule) requires that any renovation disturbing more than 6 square feet of painted surface in homes built before 1978 must include lead-safe work practices: using a certified lead-safe contractor, containing dust, and cleaning up. A full bathroom remodel (walls, trim, etc.) will disturb far more than 6 sq. ft., so lead compliance is mandatory. Winter Park's Building Department may not enforce this directly, but your contractor is legally responsible; if you hire a non-certified contractor, you risk fines. The permit application may ask if the home was built before 1978; answer truthfully and plan for lead-safe work.

Can I install a toilet on a 1.5-inch drain line, or do I need a 3-inch line?

A 1.5-inch drain is fine for a toilet if it's the only fixture on that drain line and it meets trap-arm and vent requirements (trap arm under 2 feet to the vent, vent stack sized per code). However, if the drain serves other fixtures (sink, tub), a 2-inch minimum is preferred, and if you're installing multiple fixtures, 3-inch is typical. Winter Park inspectors will verify drain sizing during rough plumbing inspection; if undersized, you'll be asked to upgrade, adding time and cost. Consult a plumber if you're relocating a toilet to confirm the drain line size is adequate.

What happens at the final bathroom inspection in Winter Park?

The inspector verifies that all fixtures are installed per plan, waterproofing is cured and sealed (grout, caulk), electrical outlets are functioning and GFCI-protected, exhaust fan ductwork is sealed and damper operates, lighting is installed and watertight, and the space is clean and safe for occupancy. They'll check that tile is set properly, grout lines are filled, caulk is applied at edges (not grout), and no water leaks from supply lines or drains. If deficiencies are found, you'll be asked to correct them and call for a re-inspection (typically $50–$150 fee). Once the inspector signs off, you're issued a Certificate of Completion, and you can close the bathroom for use.

Disclaimer: This guide is based on research conducted in May 2026 using publicly available sources. Always verify current bathroom remodel (full) permit requirements with the City of Winter Park Building Department before starting your project.

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