What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)
- Stop-work order: City inspector discovering unpermitted plumbing or electrical can post a stop-work notice and fine you $300–$500 per violation, plus requiring you to pull a permit and redo the work under inspection.
- Insurance claim denial: If a water leak from an unpermitted shower waterproofing failure damages subfloor or adjacent rooms, homeowners insurance will deny the claim citing code violation — you pay the full repair cost ($5,000–$25,000 for water damage).
- Resale disclosure: Oregon requires sellers to disclose unpermitted work on the Transfer Disclosure Statement; buyer can renegotiate price or walk away, or force you to remediate and re-permit before closing.
- Mortgage/refinance blocks: Lenders doing a title search or appraisal can flag unpermitted bathroom work, freezing refinance or HELOC applications until permit is pulled retroactively (costly and may require full re-inspection).
Keizer bathroom remodel permits — the key details
The Oregon Residential Specialty Code (RSC), adopted by Keizer, requires a permit for any bathroom work that involves plumbing fixture relocation, electrical circuit addition, tub-to-shower conversion with new waterproofing, or structural changes. The City of Keizer Building Department enforces IRC P2706 (drainage trap and fitting sizing), IRC E3902 (GFCI protection in bathrooms), IRC M1505 (exhaust fan ventilation), and IRC R702.4.2 (shower/tub waterproofing assembly). The key trigger is fixture movement — even moving a toilet 12 inches to meet ADA clearance requires a plumbing permit and inspection. If you are simply replacing a faucet, toilet, or vanity in its existing location without touching supply lines or drains, no permit is needed. However, the moment you convert a tub to a shower (or vice versa), the waterproofing assembly changes, and Keizer code inspectors require a detailed waterproofing plan showing either a cement-board-plus-liquid-membrane system or a pre-manufactured shower pan. Surface work — tile, paint, lighting fixture swap (no new circuits), mirror, towel bars — is exempt. The permit application itself must be submitted via Keizer's online Accela portal, and you cannot file with incomplete information; the city will reject applications that say 'waterproofing system to be determined' or 'electrical details per contractor.' This upfront documentation requirement means you need either a licensed contractor or a very thorough owner-builder plan before you submit.
Electrical work in bathrooms is heavily regulated under NEC Article 210 and Oregon's adoption of it. Every bathroom outlet must be GFCI-protected (ground-fault circuit interrupter), and if you add any new circuits — for a heated floor, new exhaust fan, or a second vanity light — those circuits must be shown on an electrical plan. Afoul common issue in Keizer: homeowners install a recirculating (ductless) exhaust fan to avoid running new ductwork, but Oregon code (per IRC M1505.2) requires all exhaust fans to be ducted to the exterior, not recirculated back into the house. Recirculating fans are not permitted and will not pass final inspection. You must run ducting outdoors, and Keizer inspectors want to see the termination point — either a roof cap or wall cap — photographed or visible during the rough inspection. If your remodel adds a second bathroom or a powder room, different rules apply (see 'Adding a new bathroom' FAQ). If you are simply replacing an existing exhaust fan with a like-for-like unit in the same location and ductwork, that is often exempt, but contact Keizer Building Department to confirm; the city's rule is narrower than some Oregon towns.
Plumbing in Keizer bathrooms must meet IRC P2706 and local amendments around trap-arm length. A toilet, sink, or shower drain cannot have a trap arm (the horizontal pipe from the fixture outlet to the main stack) longer than 6 feet — a rule that trips up DIYers relocating a toilet to the opposite wall. If your new layout requires a longer trap arm, you need a secondary vent or a re-routing of the main stack. Similarly, Keizer inspectors will reject plans with improper trap depth or slope; drains must slope 1/4 inch per foot toward the main stack and not more than 3 feet below the fixture outlet. Pressure-balanced or thermostatic valves are required in tub/shower combinations to prevent scalding, and the valve must be accessible for service (you cannot box it in behind drywall without an access panel). For tub-to-shower conversions, the waterproofing membrane must extend at least 6 inches above the showerhead (per IRC R702.4.2), and the membrane must be installed before drywall or tile. Common Keizer rejection: submitting plans showing waterproofing 'to be installed per standard practice' — the city wants a specific product name and installation sequence.
Keizer's permit fees are calculated on a base rate plus project valuation. The base permit fee is $250, and then the city adds approximately 1% of the estimated project cost (with a minimum of 1.5 hours labor cost). A $15,000 bathroom remodel typically costs $400–$500 in total permit fees; a $30,000 remodel costs $550–$750. Plan review typically takes 2–3 weeks, and the city will issue a 'request for information' (RFI) via email if the plans are incomplete. Once approved, you can pull the permit and begin work. Inspections are required at three or four stages: rough plumbing (after pipes are run, before drywall); rough electrical (after wiring and panel work, before drywall); framing/waterproofing (if walls are moved or shower waterproofing is installed); and final (after tile, fixtures, and trim are done). If you are doing a surface-level remodel with no fixture movement, you may only need a final inspection, but do not skip the permit — the exemption for surface work does not apply once you pull a permit for any part of the project.
Owner-builder permits are allowed in Keizer for owner-occupied homes. You must pull the permit yourself using the Accela portal; you cannot hire a contractor and have them pull it under your name. If you sell the home within one year, you may need to disclose the owner-builder permit on the Transfer Disclosure Statement, so keep documentation. Licensed contractors must be used for any electrical work (Oregon law) and any gas/propane line work, but plumbing can be owner-performed if you pull the permit and pass inspections. If you hire a plumber to do the work while you hold the permit, the plumber must be licensed, and their license will be logged on the permit record. Keizer Building Department will call the jobsite for inspections, and you must be present or designate a representative to meet the inspector. Do not assume 'I'm the owner, so I can do it unlicensed' — electrical and certain gas/plumbing still require licensed professionals even if you hold the permit.
Three Keizer bathroom remodel (full) scenarios
Waterproofing assembly requirements for tub-to-shower conversions in Keizer
When you convert a bathtub to a shower, Keizer Building Department requires documentation of a waterproofing assembly that meets IRC R702.4.2. The code specifies that the waterproofing membrane must extend at least 6 inches above the tallest showerhead outlet (typically 78 inches from the pan floor) and must be installed over a water-resistant substrate (cement board, fiber cement board, or membrane-backed drywall). The two most common systems are: (1) cement board plus liquid-applied membrane (Redgard, Kerdi Coat, Hydro Ban), or (2) pre-manufactured membranes bonded to drywall (Schluter Kerdi, Wedi, similar). Keizer inspectors have flagged applications showing 'standard waterproofing per contractor best practice' — they want product names, coverage area, and thickness. Some DIYers propose using Aqua-Defense or foam boards, but Keizer has historically rejected those as not meeting the code standard for durability.
The waterproofing must be inspected before drywall is hung. During the rough inspection, the Keizer inspector will verify that the membrane is intact, properly sealed at corners and penetrations (drain, valve, supply lines), and extends to the required height. If you are using a liquid-applied membrane, you must show at least two coats or follow the manufacturer's spec (usually 40 mils minimum thickness). Common defect: the membrane is applied correctly but the tub-surround or shower pan is not sealed to the membrane with waterproof silicone caulk, allowing water to migrate behind the tile. Keizer's inspection checklist includes caulk beads at the inside corners and around the drain flange.
If you are adding a half-wall (knee wall) or partial partition in the shower, that framing must be backed with waterproof sheathing and must not trap water. Some designers try to build a benches or niches; those are allowed, but they must be fully waterproofed and have drainage. Niche backing cannot be standard drywall — it must be membrane-backed or cement-board, and the niche edges must be sealed. Keizer has seen leaks from stone niches that were not sloped to drain, so your inspection will scrutinize slope and drainage of any recessed shelving. Lead-paint remediation is required if the bathroom was built before 1978 and you are scraping or sanding old paint; the city requires a lead-safe work plan from a certified contractor or an owner-operator who has taken a lead-safety course.
Electrical GFCI and circuit requirements for Keizer bathrooms
All outlets in a bathroom in Keizer must be GFCI-protected per NEC Article 210.8. This includes outlets within 6 feet of the sink, around the tub or shower, and any outlet in the bathroom. GFCI outlets detect ground faults (shocks) and trip in milliseconds, preventing electrocution. You can use either GFCI outlets (individual outlets with the GFCI button) or a GFCI breaker in the main panel (which protects all outlets on that circuit). Oregon code, as adopted by Keizer, also requires AFCI (arc-fault circuit interrupter) protection on all circuits in bedrooms, living rooms, and bathrooms (per NEC Article 210.12). This means any new circuit you install in a bathroom must have both GFCI and AFCI protection. Some installers use a dual GFCI/AFCI outlet or breaker; verify with the Keizer plan reviewer which method is acceptable for your layout.
Each bathroom typically has at least two outlet circuits: one for the vanity/lighting and one for the exhaust fan and any heaters. Newer codes (and Keizer's adoption of the 2020 or 2023 IRC) may require a dedicated circuit for some appliances (e.g., a heated towel rack or floor heater). Your electrical plan must show the circuit routing, amperage, breaker size, and GFCI/AFCI protection type. If you are adding a 240-volt heated floor, that is a separate circuit with its own breaker, and Keizer will require a disconnect switch or panel-level control. A licensed Oregon electrician must handle all electrical work; if you are an owner-builder, you cannot pull electrical yourself. The electrician pulls the electrical permit under their license, or you hire a licensed electrician to do the work while you hold the general plumbing permit — either way, an Oregon-licensed electrician is non-negotiable.
Bathroom lighting and vanity circuits in older Keizer homes often run at 15 amps, which is adequate for LED and CFL lighting but may be insufficient if you are adding heated mirrors, radiant floor, or multiple power outlets. A new circuit is recommended at 20 amps for modern bathroom loads. Recessed lighting in wet locations (directly above the tub or shower) must be rated for wet locations (Type IC for insulation-contact; Type non-IC for non-contact). Your plan submission to Keizer will need to specify light fixture ratings and location. Exhaust fan circuits are typically 120 volts, 15 or 20 amps, on their own breaker, with a disconnect switch (or breaker serving as disconnect) located outside the bathroom or in an accessible location. Do not assume the existing bathroom lighting or outlet circuit can handle a new exhaust fan load — you will likely need a new circuit, triggering the permit requirement.
Keizer City Hall, 930 Chemawa Road NE, Keizer, OR 97303
Phone: (503) 390-3600 (main city number; ask for Building or Community Development) | https://www.keizer.org (check for 'Permits' or 'Building Permits' link; likely Accela-based online portal)
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM (confirm locally; may have lunch closure 12–1 PM)
Common questions
Do I need a permit if I'm just replacing my toilet in the same location?
No. Replacing a toilet in-place without moving the drain line or supply line is surface work and does not require a permit in Keizer. However, if you are also moving the toilet to a new location, even a few feet away, you need a plumbing permit. Similarly, swapping out a faucet or vanity in the same location is exempt. The moment any fixture is relocated, or any plumbing line is re-routed, a permit is required.
I'm converting my tub to a shower. Do I really need to show the waterproofing product name on the permit application?
Yes. Keizer Building Department requires the waterproofing product name, system type (e.g., cement board plus liquid membrane), and coverage specifications before you can pull the permit. Submitting an application with 'waterproofing per contractor best practice' or 'TBD' will result in a rejection and an RFI (Request for Information). Have your contractor or materials supplier confirm the product and system before you file. Acceptable systems include Schluter Kerdi, Redgard cement board, Wedi, or other IRC-compliant assemblies.
Can I install a ductless (recirculating) exhaust fan to avoid running new ductwork?
No. Oregon code (IRC M1505.2, as adopted by Keizer) requires all bathroom exhaust fans to be ducted to the exterior of the building. Recirculating fans are not permitted and will not pass final inspection. You must run ducting through the attic or wall cavity to a roof cap or soffit vent termination. Verify the termination location with the Keizer inspector during the rough mechanical inspection.
My bathroom was built in 1965. Does that affect my permit?
Yes, if you are disturbing paint. Bathrooms built before 1978 may contain lead paint. Oregon law requires a certified lead-safe work practice if you are scraping, sanding, or otherwise disturbing the paint. This typically means wet-wiping, HEPA-filter vacuuming, and containment during demolition. You do not need a separate lead-abatement permit, but you must follow the EPA lead-safe practices and document them. If you are unsure, hire a lead-inspector ($300–$500) or a certified lead-safe contractor; the cost is far less than a lead-exposure claim or remediation.
Can I pull the permit myself if I'm the owner and planning to do the work?
Yes, for plumbing and general work. Keizer allows owner-builders to pull permits for owner-occupied homes. You must file the permit yourself via the Accela portal; you cannot hire a contractor and have them file under your name. However, you cannot do electrical work yourself — Oregon law requires a licensed electrician for all electrical installation. You can do the plumbing if you pull the plumbing permit and pass inspections, but a licensed plumber is recommended if you have no experience. If you hire a licensed plumber to do the work, they must be licensed, and their name and license number will appear on the permit record.
How long does the Keizer plan review take, and can I start work before the permit is approved?
Plan review typically takes 2–3 weeks. You cannot start any permitted work (plumbing, electrical, structural) until the permit is pulled and the approval is in hand. If Keizer issues an RFI (Request for Information), you must respond with additional details, which may add another 1–2 weeks to the timeline. Once the permit is issued, you can begin work. Schedule your inspections in advance by calling the Keizer Building Department or using the online portal to request inspector availability.
What if I discover my bathroom remodel does not meet code after I've already finished it?
Contact Keizer Building Department immediately and explain the situation. You may be able to file a retroactive permit application and request an inspection of the completed work. If the work is code-compliant, the permit will be signed off. If not, you will need to make corrections (at your cost) and re-inspect. Attempting to hide or cover up unpermitted work will only worsen the situation — disclosure and remediation is your best path. If you sell the home later, Oregon's Transfer Disclosure Statement requires disclosure of any unpermitted work, so hiding it creates liability.
I'm adding a second small bathroom to my home. Is that a different permit type than a bathroom remodel?
Yes. Adding a new bathroom (new plumbing, electrical, framing, and possibly HVAC) follows a different code path than remodeling an existing bathroom. A new bathroom may trigger mechanical ventilation requirements, water-service upgrades, septic or sewer capacity reviews, and building-footprint changes. You will likely need a full building permit (not just a plumbing permit), and plan review will take longer. Contact Keizer Building Department to discuss your layout and anticipated scope before submitting. Estimated permit fees for a new bathroom addition are higher (often $600–$1,000+), depending on valuation.
Do I need to hire a general contractor, or can I hire separate plumbing and electrical subs if I pull the permit?
You can hire separate licensed contractors (plumber, electrician) and pull the permit yourself if you are the owner-builder. The plumber and electrician must be licensed, and their names and license numbers will be on the permit. You act as the GC, scheduling inspections and coordinating work. This is allowed under Oregon law for owner-occupied homes, but it requires strong project management. The disadvantage is that if something goes wrong (e.g., the plumber damages electrical work), there is no general contractor warranty to fall back on — disputes fall on you.
What happens if a Keizer inspector fails my rough plumbing inspection?
The inspector will issue a written correction notice (either electronically or on-site) specifying the defects. Common failures include: trap-arm length exceeding 6 feet, improper slope (less than 1/4 inch per foot or more than 3 feet vertical drop), missing vent loops, or undersized drains. You must correct the defects and call for a re-inspection within 10 days (verify the re-inspection timeline with Keizer). Re-inspections are typically free if the corrections are minor, but additional permit fees may apply for major rework. Do not cover up failed work with drywall before getting final approval from the inspector.
More permit guides
National guides for the most-asked homeowner permit projects. Each goes deep on code thresholds, common rejections, fees, and timeline.
Roof Replacement
Layer count, deck inspection, ice dam protection, hurricane straps.
Deck
Attached vs freestanding, footings, frost depth, ledger, height/area thresholds.
Kitchen Remodel
Plumbing, electrical, gas line, ventilation, structural changes.
Solar Panels
Structural review, electrical interconnection, fire setbacks, AHJ approval.
Fence
Height/material limits, sight triangles, pool barriers, setbacks.
HVAC
Equipment changeouts, ductwork, combustion air, ventilation, IMC sections.
Bathroom Remodel
Plumbing rough-in, ventilation, electrical (GFCI/AFCI), waterproofing.
Electrical Work
Subpermits, NEC sections, panel upgrades, GFCI/AFCI, who can pull.
Basement Finishing
Egress, ceiling height, electrical, moisture barriers, occupancy rules.
Room Addition
Foundation, footings, framing, electrical/plumbing extensions, structural.
Accessory Dwelling Units (ADU)
When permits are required, code thresholds, JADU vs ADU, electrical/plumbing/parking rules.
New Windows
Egress, header sizing, structural cuts, fire-rating, energy code.
Heat Pump
Electrical capacity, refrigerant handling, condensate, IECC compliance.
Hurricane Retrofit
Roof straps, garage door bracing, opening protection, FL OIR product approval.
Pool
Barriers, alarms, electrical bonding, plumbing, separation distances.
Fireplace & Wood Stove
Hearth, clearances, chimney, gas line work, NFPA 211.
Sump Pump
Discharge location, electrical, backup options, plumbing tie-in.
Mini-Split
Refrigerant lines, condensate, electrical disconnect, line set sleeve.