Bathroom Remodel Permit in Franklin, IN (2026)

Research by DoINeedAPermit Research Team · Updated May 2026

The Short Answer

A full bathroom remodel in Franklin requires a permit if you relocate plumbing fixtures, add electrical circuits, install new exhaust ventilation, or modify framing. Surface-only work — swapping vanities or faucets in place — is exempt. You'll need separate plumbing and electrical permits, plus a building permit for structural changes.

Franklin's Building Department takes a fixture-location approach: if your remodel moves drains, supply lines, or vents, or adds new circuits, you cross the permit line. This aligns with Indiana State Building Code (which adopts the 2020 IRC), but Franklin's local interpretation is stricter on exhaust ventilation ductwork — the department requires sealed duct termination details and insulation specifications on the mechanical plan before approval, which many nearby towns only spot-check. Frost depth in Franklin is 36 inches, which affects drain-line slope calculations (IRC P2706 requires 1/4 inch per foot minimum) but doesn't change your permit requirement. What sets Franklin apart from neighboring Johnson County jurisdictions is the city's emphasis on pre-approval of waterproofing systems for shower/tub conversions — you must specify your membrane type (liquid, sheet, or cement-board-plus-membrane assembly) before framing inspection, not after. Plan review typically takes 2–3 weeks for standard remodels, and the city processes permits through an online portal (details below). If your home was built before 1978, lead-paint disclosure requirements apply separately.

What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)

Stop-work orders from the city carry fines of $100–$500 per day once flagged, plus the city may require permit re-pulls at double fee ($400–$1,600 total) and full re-inspection.
Insurance claims on unpermitted plumbing or electrical work in bathrooms are frequently denied outright; water damage or electrical incidents in a remodeled bathroom without permits can void your homeowner's policy.
When you sell, Franklin's MLS disclosure rules require you to report permitted vs. unpermitted work, and Title companies will often require retrofit permits (costing 50–100% more than original permits) before closing.
Lenders and refinance appraisers will flag unpermitted bathroom remodels as a code violation, delaying or blocking loan approval by 30–90 days and potentially lowering your home's appraised value by 5–10%.

Franklin bathroom remodel permits — the key details

Franklin requires separate permits for plumbing, electrical, and building work in a full bathroom remodel. The trigger is fixture relocation, not cosmetic upgrades. If you're moving the toilet, sink, or shower/tub to a new location, or running new drain lines, you need a plumbing permit. If you're adding a dedicated circuit for a heated floor or new exhaust fan motor, or upgrading bathroom GFCI protection, you need an electrical permit. If you're removing or moving walls, installing new structural bracing, or converting a tub to a shower (which changes the waterproofing assembly per IRC R702.4.2), you need a building permit. The plumbing and electrical permits are pulled through the same application but reviewed separately; most homeowners file all three simultaneously to avoid delays. Franklin's online permit portal allows you to upload floor plans, mechanical drawings, and electrical schematics, though the city strongly recommends a pre-application meeting if your layout is nonstandard (e.g., relocating the main drain line or adding a second exhaust duct). Plan review averages 2–3 weeks for full remodels; expedited review is available for an additional fee (typically $50–$100).

The most common rejection reason in Franklin is incomplete waterproofing documentation on tub-to-shower conversions. If your remodel involves converting an existing bathtub to a walk-in shower, IRC R702.4.2 requires a continuous waterproofing membrane or assembly that extends at least 6 inches above the finished floor on all walls, plus a sloped substrate (often cement board over a proper slope base). Franklin's reviewers want to see the specific system you're using — liquid membrane applied in two coats, sheet-applied EPDM, or a pre-fabricated waterproofing system with sealed seams and termination details. Vague descriptions like 'cement board and waterproof paint' will be rejected. Submit a product datasheet or a detailed section drawing showing the assembly layers, including vapor barrier, substrate slope, and termination. The second most common rejection is omission of GFCI/AFCI details on the electrical plan. Per NEC 210.12(B), all bathroom circuits require either GFCI-protected receptacles or AFCI breakers; the city inspector will verify at rough-electrical inspection. If your plan doesn't label which receptacles are GFCI-protected and which breaker (if any) provides AFCI protection, the reviewer will ask for clarification before approving the electrical permit.

Exhaust fan ventilation is Franklin's third-most-scrutinized element. IRC M1505.4 requires bathroom exhaust fans to be ducted to the outdoors, not into an attic or soffit (this rule is often flouted and catches homeowners by surprise). The duct must be sealed (mechanically fastened and tape-sealed per SMACNA standards) and insulated if it passes through unconditioned space — Franklin requires sealed ducts in the heating attic zone, and the plan must show a termination damper or hood at the exterior wall. Many homeowners specify a fan but omit the duct run, assuming it's obvious; the city will reject this and require a mechanical plan showing duct diameter, length, material, and termination location. If your remodel includes a 100 CFM or larger fan (typical for bathroom exhaust), the city may require a separate HVAC plan or at minimum a mechanical detail sheet. Failure to show this will delay approval by 1–2 weeks while you get an HVAC contractor to sketch the duct run.

Drain-line slope is the fourth detail that trips up remodelers in Franklin. When you relocate a toilet or sink drain in Indiana's Zone 5A climate (and 36-inch frost depth), the horizontal drain line must slope at least 1/4 inch per foot toward the stack, per IRC P2706.2. If your new drain run is long (say, moving the toilet from the north wall to the south wall in a large master bath), and you don't account for proper slope, the vent terminal height relative to the fixture, and the trap-arm maximum length (usually 6 feet), the city's plumbing inspector will flag it during rough inspection. Franklin's plumbing staff are diligent on this because glacial-till soils south of town (karst-influenced in some areas) mean poor percolation; if you're anywhere near a septic field, improper drain slope can lead to backups within months. Have your plumber calculate the new drain run and verify slope on a floor-plan section view before submission.

Permits in Franklin are non-transferable if the original applicant is not the current homeowner. If you hire a general contractor, the contractor can pull permits in your name, but you remain responsible for inspections and final sign-off. Owner-builders are allowed for owner-occupied single-family homes, but the city requires proof of occupancy (lease, deed, tax bill) and a separate owner-builder declaration form. Once permits are issued, you have 12 months to complete the work and pass final inspection; if work stalls beyond 12 months, you'll need to renew the permit (partial fee, roughly $100–$200). Inspections typically occur in this order: rough plumbing (before walls are closed), rough electrical (before drywall), framing (if walls are modified), and final (after all finishes). If you're not changing framing or wall structure, the framing inspection is skipped. Final inspection verifies all fixtures are in place, GFCI outlets are tested, exhaust fan is operational, and there are no visible code violations.

Three Franklin bathroom remodel (full) scenarios

Scenario A

Vanity and faucet replacement in place, new tile, existing exhaust fan cleaned — Johnson Avenue, Franklin

You're keeping the sink, toilet, and shower in their current locations. You're removing the old vanity and installing a new one in the same footprint, swapping out the faucet, retiling the walls and floor, and cleaning out the existing exhaust duct (no new ductwork). This is surface-only work and does not require a building, plumbing, or electrical permit. You can order materials and start demo immediately. However, if your home was built before 1978, lead-based paint may be present on trim or walls; you must follow EPA lead-safe work practices (containment, HEPA vacuuming) even without a permit — the city does not waive this, and if a lead inspection is triggered (e.g., by a complaint), you can face fines of $200–$1,000. The only exception is if you hire a lead-certified contractor; then you're covered under their insurance. Verify your home's build date on the County Assessor's website. You'll still want a plumber to verify the existing drain and vent are sound before closing up walls, but this is optional. Total cost: materials and labor only, no permit fees.

Scenario B

Moving toilet to opposite wall, new drain line, new GFCI circuit, tub-to-shower conversion — Historic district, Franklin

You're relocating the toilet from the east wall to the west wall (approx. 12 feet), which requires a new 3-inch drain line and a new vent stack or tie-in to existing vent. You're also converting the existing bathtub to a walk-in shower, which requires a new waterproofing assembly (you're specifying a liquid membrane system over cement board). Finally, you're adding a dedicated 20-amp GFCI circuit for the new heated floor mat in the shower. This triggers three permits: Building (for the shower conversion and structural changes), Plumbing (for the new toilet drain and vent), and Electrical (for the new circuit and GFCI protection). Franklin's online portal requires you to upload floor plans showing the new toilet location, a section detail of the shower waterproofing assembly (with product name, application thickness, and termination height), electrical schematics showing the new GFCI circuit, and plumbing isometric drawings of the new drain and vent. Since your property is in the Historic District (check the City's Zoning Map), you may also need Historic Preservation approval if you're modifying exterior elements (e.g., new vent termination through the roof or wall) — this adds 1–2 weeks and a $50–$100 historic review fee. Plan review typically takes 3–4 weeks. Inspections: rough plumbing (vent stack before drywall), rough electrical (circuit and rough-in before drywall), waterproofing inspection (cement board and first membrane coat before finishing coat), and final. Permit fees: Building $250–$400, Plumbing $200–$300, Electrical $150–$250, plus potential Historic review fee. Total permit cost: $700–$1,100. Timeline: 4–5 weeks from submission to first inspection, assuming no rejections.

Scenario C

Removing wall between bathroom and bedroom, enlarging bathroom, new double vanity, new exhaust duct, no fixture relocation — Westwood subdivision, Franklin

You're removing a non-structural wall that separates the bathroom from an adjacent bedroom, expanding the bathroom footprint by 60 square feet and installing a double vanity with new plumbing supply lines (but keeping the toilet and shower in their current locations). You're also installing a new exhaust fan and ductwork because the existing single fan is undersized for the expanded space. This triggers Building (wall removal and structural evaluation), Plumbing (new vanity supply lines and drain tie-in), and Electrical (new exhaust fan circuit). The Building permit is the critical one here: even though the wall may appear non-structural, Franklin's Building Department requires a structural engineer's letter confirming it's non-bearing, or the city will demand a header and support posts, which escalates cost and timeline. You'll submit the wall removal plan to the city; if the wall runs perpendicular to floor joists or is near the roof line, the city will request engineer stamps. Assuming the engineer confirms it's non-bearing, the permit is approved, but framing inspection is mandatory before drywall. The new exhaust fan plan must show duct diameter (typically 4 inches), length, and termination location (roof or side wall with damper). The new vanity requires a plumbing plan showing the supply line size (usually 1/2 inch) and the drain tie-in location (must tie to existing stack or new secondary stack). Permit fees: Building $300–$500 (may increase if engineer stamps are required; add $200–$400 for engineer letter), Plumbing $200–$300, Electrical $150–$250. Total: $650–$1,550. Timeline: 3–5 weeks for plan review; if the city requests structural engineering, add 1–2 weeks. Inspections: structural review (if engineer-required), framing, rough plumbing, rough electrical, drywall (if walls are opened), and final. This is a more complex project than Scenario B due to the structural element, so budget for delays and potential code-required modifications (e.g., added bracing or header sizing).

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Waterproofing requirements for shower conversions in Franklin bathrooms

If your remodel converts a bathtub to a shower or builds a new shower enclosure, IRC R702.4.2 requires a continuous waterproofing membrane or assembly on all walls and the floor substrate, extending at least 6 inches above the finished floor. Franklin's Building Department interprets this strictly: the waterproofing layer must be a separate, documented system, not just paint or sealant applied to drywall. The city will reject plans that propose 'waterproof drywall with caulk' as the sole waterproofing strategy. Approved systems in Franklin include: (1) liquid-applied membrane (two-part epoxy or polyurethane, minimum 60 mils dry film thickness per ASTM D1141), (2) sheet-applied EPDM or PVC membrane (minimum 45 mils, with sealed seams and termination strips), or (3) pre-fabricated shower pan or waterproofing system with documented sealing detail. Cement board is a substrate, not a waterproofing membrane — if you use cement board, you must still apply a membrane over it or use a composite sheet system (e.g., cement board pre-bonded to a sheet membrane). This distinction trips up DIY remodelers who assume cement board alone is sufficient.

Your plan must include a detailed section drawing showing the substrate (slope base if applicable), the waterproofing layer, the substrate fastening method, and the termination detail (how the membrane wraps up the wall and terminates above the finished floor). If using a pre-fabricated system (like a Schluter or Wedi system), attach the manufacturer's detail sheet showing the assembly. If using liquid membrane, specify the product by name (e.g., 'Redgard two-part epoxy') and the application thickness. The city's reviewer will cross-check this against the product datasheet. Frost depth (36 inches in Franklin) doesn't directly affect waterproofing, but if your shower is on an exterior wall with rim-board exposure, moisture from freeze-thaw cycling can migrate behind the membrane if it's improperly terminated — another reason the city is strict about termination details.

Common waterproofing rejections in Franklin: (1) Plan shows 'cement board and waterproof paint' with no membrane specification — rejected, requires re-submission with approved membrane detail. (2) Plan specifies liquid membrane but doesn't show minimum thickness or drying time between coats — rejected, request product datasheet. (3) Shower pan is specified but sealing detail is omitted — rejected, require manufacturer's installation drawing. (4) Membrane terminates below the 6-inch minimum above finished floor — rejected, full re-design. The waterproofing inspection occurs after framing and drywall are complete but before tile installation; the city's inspector will verify the membrane is installed per plan and all seams are sealed. If it fails, you'll need to remediate (reapply failed areas) and request re-inspection, adding 1–2 weeks and $75–$150 in re-inspection fees.

Exhaust ventilation ductwork and HVAC requirements in Franklin

Franklin enforces IRC M1505.4 strictly: all bathroom exhaust fans must be ducted to the outdoors, not terminated in the attic or soffit. Many homeowners and even some contractors assume a fan vented into the attic is acceptable if the attic is ventilated — this is incorrect and Franklin's inspector will catch it. The duct must be sealed (mechanically fastened with sheet-metal screws and sealed with foil tape or mastic per SMACNA standards) and insulated if it passes through unconditioned space (the attic, in most cases). Uninsulated duct in a cold attic will cause condensation on the interior duct surface, which drips back into the bathroom or soaks the surrounding insulation — a moisture hazard. Franklin's standard is 1-inch rigid duct insulation or R-8 wrap, with sealed seams. The duct termination must include a damper (gravity or motorized) to prevent outdoor air from flowing backward into the bathroom during winter when the fan is off. If your bathroom is on the second floor and the attic is above, the duct run may be 15–20 feet; for runs longer than 25 feet, the city recommends upsizing the duct (from 4 inches to 5 inches) to reduce static pressure and ensure adequate airflow.

Your plan must show the duct diameter, material (typically rigid aluminum or flexible insulated), length, location of any elbows or transitions, and the exterior termination point (roof hood, wall cap with damper, or soffit vent with damper). If using flexible duct, note that it's acceptable for short transitions (under 3 feet) but not recommended for long runs because it crushes easily and restricts airflow. Most Franklin contractors use rigid duct for the main run and flexible for the final 2–3 foot transition to the exterior hood. If your remodel involves two bathroom exhaust fans (e.g., master bath and guest bath), the city requires separate ducts to the exterior; combining two fans into a single duct is not permitted because it creates pressure imbalances and moisture backup. For fan sizing, use the IRC minimum: 50 CFM for bathrooms up to 100 square feet, plus 1 CFM per square foot for larger bathrooms. A typical master bath (12x10 feet, 120 square feet) would require a 70 CFM fan; the city's inspector will verify the fan specification matches the plan.

Ductwork inspection occurs during rough framing/mechanical inspection, before drywall is closed. The inspector will verify the duct is sealed, insulated where required, slopes toward the termination point (never horizontal or upward), and terminates to the exterior with a damper. If the duct terminates on the roof, the city will also verify it's at least 2 feet above the roof plane (per IRC M1505.4(4)). Frost depth in Franklin (36 inches) affects the roof penetration frost line — if your roof penetration is near the edge of a gable or valley, ice damming and ice-lens formation can damage the flashing. The city doesn't directly regulate this, but the roofing inspector (if the permit includes roofing work) will flag a poorly positioned penetration. If your ductwork plan is vague or omits termination details, the city will issue a 'Plan Note' during review requesting clarification; you'll revise and resubmit, adding 1–2 weeks. Budget for a mechanical plan detail (roughly $200–$400 from an HVAC designer) if you're not working with a licensed mechanical contractor.

City of Franklin Building Department
Franklin City Hall, Franklin, Indiana (exact street address: search 'Franklin IN building permit' or call City Hall main line)
Phone: Contact Franklin City Hall main line and ask for Building Department; phone number varies — verify via City of Franklin official website or (317) area code directory | Franklin Building Permit Portal — accessible via City of Franklin website (search 'Franklin IN building permit online' or visit City Hall in person for portal access details)
Monday–Friday 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM; closed City holidays (verify holidays on City website)

Common questions

Do I need a permit to replace my bathroom vanity?

Only if you're relocating the sink drain or supply lines to a new location. If you're installing a new vanity in the same footprint, using the existing drain and supply connections, no permit is required. If the new vanity requires repositioning the plumbing (e.g., moving from a 30-inch cabinet to a 48-inch cabinet with a different sink location), you need a plumbing permit. Costs for a plumbing permit are typically $200–$300 in Franklin.

What happens at the rough plumbing inspection?

The city's plumbing inspector verifies all drain lines slope correctly (1/4 inch per foot minimum per IRC P2706), vent terminals are properly positioned and sealed, trap arms don't exceed 6 feet, and all new fixtures have proper shut-off valves and cleanouts. The inspector will also verify the drain material (PVC, cast iron, or copper) matches the plan and that no prohibited materials (like galvanized steel) are used for drains. Bring your plumber to the inspection to discuss any corrections on-site.

Can I do plumbing and electrical work myself, or do I need a licensed contractor?

Indiana State Code allows owner-builders to perform work on owner-occupied single-family homes with an owner-builder permit. Franklin requires proof of occupancy (deed, tax bill, or lease) and a separate owner-builder declaration form. However, most plumbing and electrical work requires licensed tradesperson sign-offs at final inspection; if you do the work yourself, Franklin may require a licensed plumber or electrician to certify the work before final approval. Contact the Building Department to clarify your specific situation before starting.

How long does plan review take in Franklin?

Standard plan review for a full bathroom remodel takes 2–4 weeks, depending on complexity. Simple projects (new vanity, new fixtures only) may clear in 1–2 weeks. Projects involving wall removal, structural changes, or historic-district review can take 4–6 weeks. Expedited review is available for a $50–$100 fee and typically shortens review to 1 week. Rejections and resubmissions add 1–2 weeks per cycle.

Do I need a separate permit to install heated tile or a heated floor mat in my bathroom?

Yes, if the heating system requires a dedicated electrical circuit or integration into the home's electrical system, you need an electrical permit. A simple plug-in heated floor mat under tile (under 15 amps) may not require a permit, but built-in radiant heat systems or hardwired mats require electrical plans showing the circuit, GFCI protection (if applicable), and thermostatic controls. Franklin will verify GFCI protection at electrical rough-in inspection. Budget $150–$250 for the electrical permit.

What if my home was built before 1978 — does that affect my bathroom remodel permit?

Yes. Homes built before 1978 may contain lead-based paint, and federal EPA regulations (not specific to Franklin) require lead-safe work practices during any renovation, repair, or painting. You must use containment barriers, HEPA vacuum the work area, and hire a lead-certified contractor or follow EPA lead-safe guidelines yourself. This is separate from the building permit but is enforced via post-construction inspection if lead is suspected. Failure to follow lead-safe practices can result in fines up to $1,000. Have a lead inspection done before starting if you're unsure.

If I convert my bathtub to a shower, do I need to remove the old tub?

You must remove the old tub before installing the shower pan or waterproofing assembly; leaving the tub underneath is not permitted. The floor substrate (usually plywood) must be sound and properly sloped toward the drain. If the subfloor is damaged by water, it must be replaced. The waterproofing assembly then covers the entire substrate, including the area where the tub was. This is verified at the waterproofing and framing inspections.

Can I vent my bathroom exhaust fan into the attic?

No. Franklin enforces IRC M1505.4 strictly: all bathroom exhaust fans must be ducted to the exterior (roof or wall) with a damper. Venting into the attic, even if the attic is ventilated, is not permitted and will fail inspection. If an existing bathroom is vented into the attic, you must relocate the duct to the exterior as part of any remodel. This typically costs $200–$500 for materials and labor.

What are GFCI outlets, and do I need them in my remodeled bathroom?

GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) outlets are special receptacles that shut off power instantly if a ground fault occurs, preventing electrical shock. NEC 210.12(B) requires all bathroom circuits to be GFCI-protected or served by an AFCI breaker. In Franklin, you must install GFCI outlets at all receptacles within 6 feet of a sink or tub, or install a GFCI breaker that protects the entire bathroom circuit. The electrical plan must clearly label which outlets are GFCI-protected. Cost: $15–$30 per GFCI outlet, or $50–$100 for a GFCI breaker.

How much do bathroom remodel permits cost in Franklin?

Permit fees depend on the scope and valuation of the project. A simple cosmetic remodel (no fixture relocation) costs $0–$200 (no permit). A mid-range remodel with fixture relocation costs $500–$900 (Building $250–$400, Plumbing $200–$300, Electrical $150–$250). A complex remodel with wall removal and structural changes costs $700–$1,500, plus additional fees for structural review, historic review, or expedited processing. Contact the Building Department for a fee estimate based on your project scope.

Disclaimer: This guide is based on research conducted in May 2026 using publicly available sources. Always verify current bathroom remodel (full) permit requirements with the City of Franklin Building Department before starting your project.

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