Research by DoINeedAPermit Research Team · Updated May 2026
The Short Answer
Yes. Any attached deck—regardless of size or height—requires a permit from the City of Big Spring Building Department. There is no exemption threshold for attached decks in Big Spring.
Big Spring does not grant exemptions for small attached decks the way some Texas cities do. The city applies the IRC R507 structural deck standard to all attached-to-house work, meaning even a modest 12x10 pressure-treated platform needs a permit, plan review, and three inspections (footing, framing, final). This is tighter than, say, Midland or Odessa, where decks under 200 square feet at ground level may qualify for a fast-track exemption. Big Spring's Building Department also enforces strict compliance with ledger-board flashing (IRC R507.9) and footing depth tied to local soil conditions—Houston Black clay and caliche pockets across the county mean footings can't follow a one-size-fits-all rule. The city uses the 2015 International Building Code (or most recent adoption) and requires sealed structural plans for any deck over 30 inches tall or with complex framing. Plan review typically takes 2–3 weeks. Permit fees run $200–$400 depending on valuation and complexity.

What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)

Big Spring attached deck permits—the key details

The City of Big Spring Building Department enforces the 2015 IBC and IRC R507 (decks) for all attached decks. There is no size exemption. IRC R507.1 defines an attached deck as a structure not more than 30 inches above grade and supported by posts set in the ground or by the structure to which it is attached; Big Spring interprets 'attached' to mean any deck ledger-bolted to the house frame, regardless of whether the far end is elevated. This means a 10x12 deck at 24 inches high still requires a full permit because it is structurally tied to the house. The ledger board is the critical detail: IRC R507.9 mandates flashing, rim-board fastening (at 16 inches on center, minimum 1/2-inch bolts), and a moisture barrier. Big Spring plan reviews consistently flag missing or undersized flashing—missing flashing is the #1 rejection reason. Your structural plans must show the flashing detail, the ledger fastening schedule, the footing locations and depths, post-to-beam connections (including any lateral load devices if the deck exceeds 12 feet wide or sits on expansive soil), and guardrail details if the deck is over 30 inches high (IRC R312 requires a 36-inch minimum guardrail height, measured from the deck surface to the top of the rail; some cities require 42 inches, but Big Spring enforces 36 inches). The city also requires footings to be set below the local frost line to prevent frost heave—this is where Big Spring's climate matters most.

Frost depth in Big Spring is not uniform. The city straddles multiple geological zones: West Howard County (toward Midland) has caliche layers and shallow frost (6–8 inches); central Big Spring sits on expansive Houston Black clay with a frost line of 12–18 inches; the far north (Forsan area) approaches 24 inches. Most of the city proper falls into the 12–18 inch band, but the Building Department requires you to specify the property address and verify frost depth with a geotechnical report or reference the county soil survey (Howard County Extension or USDA NRCS). Footings set shallower than the local frost line will heave in winter, cracking the deck and separating the ledger from the house—a common problem in North Texas. Big Spring inspectors will reject plans that show footings at 6 inches depth for a central-city lot; they expect 16–18 inches for most city properties. If you're on caliche or in a West County location, you may get approval for 8–10 inches, but you must justify it on the plans. Additionally, Big Spring's soil—especially the clay-heavy zones—is expansive, meaning it swells when wet and shrinks when dry. IRC R507.9.2 requires post-to-beam connections to resist lateral movement; Big Spring's inspectors often ask for Simpson Strong-Tie LUS210 or equivalent lateral connectors if the deck is wide or sits on known expansive soil. This adds $100–$200 to your material cost but is non-negotiable.

Plan submission requires sealed drawings if the deck is over 30 inches tall or has any engineered elements (cantilever framing, wide spans, or complex loading). A typical attached deck under 16 feet long and under 24 inches high can be drawn by you (the homeowner, if owner-builder) on grid paper with dimensions, footing depth, ledger detail, and guardrail notes—Big Spring allows this for owner-builder residential work. However, if the deck is over 200 square feet, elevated over 30 inches, or includes a spa or hot tub, sealed plans by a Texas-licensed engineer (PE) are mandatory. Big Spring's plan-review turnaround is 10–15 business days for owner-drawn plans (typically over-the-counter review with same-day feedback) and 2–3 weeks for engineered plans (full building official review). The permit fee is calculated as a base fee plus a percentage of estimated valuation: for a $3,000–$5,000 deck (labor + materials), expect $200–$350 in permit fees. Decks valued over $10,000 trigger $400–$500 fees. Once you receive the permit, you can begin framing. Inspections are required at three stages: (1) footing excavation and form-setting (before concrete pour), (2) framing/ledger bolting complete (before decking is laid), and (3) final (decking, handrails, stairs complete). Big Spring Building Department schedules inspections within 2–3 business days of request; inspectors typically call 24 hours before arrival.

Electrical and plumbing on the deck are separate permits. If you're running a 120V outlet to the deck for a grill or lights, you need a separate Electrical Permit (IRC NEC Article 210 and 422; outdoor circuits must be GFCI-protected). If you're adding a drain or water line to a deck-mounted hot tub, you need a Plumbing Permit. Big Spring's Building Department issues these concurrently or separately depending on your request. An electrical outlet on a deck costs an extra $50–$100 in permit fees and requires a licensed electrician (homeowner-owner-builder is allowed, but many inspectors require a licensed electrician for outdoor work—verify with the city before pulling wire). If the deck includes a hot tub or pool, the plumbing complexity can add $200–$400 in permit fees and an additional 1–2 week review cycle. Stairs and ramps are part of the deck permit, not separate. If you're adding a ramp for accessibility (ADA-compliant), the slope must be 1:12 (1 foot rise per 12 feet run), and the ramp is subject to the same footing and framing rules as the deck.

The final practical step: gather your property deed or tax certificate to confirm ownership, sketch the deck footprint (showing distance from property lines, distance from the house, and total square footage), measure the height from finished grade to the proposed deck surface, take a soil sample or look up the county soil survey online (Howard County Extension has it), and book a pre-application consultation with the Big Spring Building Department. This 15-minute call (usually free) will confirm frost depth for your address, clarify whether sealed plans are required, and tell you which inspectors are on schedule. Then submit your plans—either in person at City Hall or online via the city's permit portal (check Big Spring's website for current upload instructions). Once approved, you'll receive a permit number and can schedule your first inspection (footing). The entire process from submission to final inspection typically takes 4–6 weeks, including your construction time. Plan accordingly if you're working around seasons or weather.

Three Big Spring deck (attached to house) scenarios

Scenario A
12x14 attached pressure-treated deck, 18 inches above grade, Crestwood neighborhood (central Big Spring, Houston Black clay soil)
Your deck is 168 square feet, attached to the house via ledger board, and sits 18 inches above finished grade—all three factors trigger the permit requirement. Central Big Spring's soil is predominantly Houston Black clay with a frost line of 16–18 inches, so your footings must be set at least 18 inches deep (below frost). Big Spring Building Department will require sealed plans if you choose to hire a contractor, or owner-drawn plans (on grid paper) if you're doing owner-builder work. Either way, expect plan review in 10–15 days (owner-drawn) or 2–3 weeks (engineered). The ledger board is critical: you must show a detail drawing of the flashing (galvanized steel or copper, 2-inch width, extending 4 inches up the house band board), the rim-board fastening (1/2-inch bolts at 16 inches on center, minimum), and the footing size (typically 4x4 or 6x6 posts on 12-inch concrete pads, set 18 inches below grade). Inspectors will also verify that the deck is not encroaching on utility lines or the neighbor's property (setback rules vary, but typically 5 feet from side property lines). Once you submit and get approval, schedule the footing inspection before you pour concrete. Pour the footings, then call for framing inspection once the ledger is bolted, the posts are plumb, and the beams are connected with Simpson Strong-Tie LUS210 lateral connectors (common in Big Spring due to clay shrink-swell). Finally, schedule the final inspection after decking, stairs, and guardrails are complete. Guardrail height must be 36 inches from deck surface to top rail; spacing between vertical balusters must not exceed 4 inches (a sphere test to prevent child entrapment, per IBC 1015). Total time: 4–6 weeks. Permit fee: $250–$350 (calculated at roughly 2% of $3,500–$5,000 estimated valuation). No electrical or plumbing required unless you add outdoor circuits.
Permit required | Plan review 10–15 days | Footing must be 18 inches deep | Ledger flashing mandatory | Simpson LUS210 connectors recommended | Three inspections (footing, framing, final) | Permit fee $250–$350 | Total project $4,000–$7,000
Scenario B
16x20 elevated deck with attached stairs, 32 inches above grade, outside historic zone (north Big Spring, approaching 24-inch frost line)
This deck is larger (320 square feet) and elevated higher, so sealed structural plans by a Texas PE are mandatory. North Big Spring's frost line approaches 24 inches (transitional zone toward panhandle), so your footings must be set 24 inches below finish grade—a significant excavation. The 32-inch height triggers guardrail requirements (IRC R312: 36-inch minimum, measured from the deck surface). Attached stairs with stringers (the angled support boards) must follow IRC R311.7: tread depth minimum 10 inches, riser height maximum 7.75 inches, and stringer spacing not to exceed 12 inches on center. Big Spring inspectors commonly reject stair plans that show inconsistent riser heights or treads that are too shallow. Your PE should also detail the beam-to-post lateral connections (LUS210 or equivalent) because the deck's width (20 feet) and elevation (32 inches) create lateral stress, especially on expansive clay. Plan review will take 2–3 weeks because the city routes engineered decks through the full building official for structural approval. Once approved, your footing inspection must confirm 24-inch depth (the inspector will measure with a depth gauge or tape), concrete strength, and post setting. The framing inspection verifies ledger bolting, post-to-beam connections (including the lateral connectors), and beam sizing. The final inspection checks decking, stair stringer attachment (bolted, not toe-nailed), handrail continuity on stairs (if stairs exceed 4 risers, a handrail is required on at least one side), and guardrail balusters (4-inch sphere rule). Total timeline: 5–7 weeks (longer because of engineered review and deeper footing work). Permit fee: $350–$450 (2–3% of $8,000–$12,000 valuation). If you add an electrical outlet or lighting on the deck, add $50–$100 and a separate electrical inspection.
Sealed PE plans required | Frost depth 24 inches | Guardrail 36 inches height required | Stair stringers must be bolted | Lateral connectors required | Plan review 2–3 weeks | Footing inspection before concrete | Three inspections total | Permit fee $350–$450 | Total project $8,000–$14,000
Scenario C
20x16 deck with hot tub rough-in (spa water line), 28 inches above grade, West County near Forsan (caliche layer, 8-inch frost line)
This scenario combines structural complexity with plumbing, demonstrating Big Spring's dual-permit workflow. West Howard County (Forsan area) sits on shallow caliche with a frost line of 6–8 inches—much shallower than central Big Spring. However, the deck is 28 inches high and includes a plumbing rough-in for a hot tub, so footings must still be set below local frost (8 inches minimum) and the deck counts as an elevated structure. Sealed PE plans are required because the deck is over 200 square feet and includes plumbing rough-in. The PE's plans must show two separate elements: (1) the deck framing with footings set 10–12 inches deep (Big Spring allows slight variation if caliche is confirmed in a soil report), ledger flashing, and lateral connectors; (2) the plumbing schematic for the hot tub feed and drain lines, including proper slope and cleanout locations. Big Spring will issue both a Building Permit and a Plumbing Permit concurrently. The Plumbing Permit review adds 1–2 weeks because the plumbing inspector must verify that the feed and drain comply with the International Plumbing Code (water supply at appropriate pressure, drain slope minimum 1/4 inch per foot, and isolation valve). Permits fees: Structural deck $300–$400, Plumbing rough-in $150–$250, total $450–$650. Inspections: (1) Footing (verify 10–12 inch depth and caliche confirmation), (2) Framing + plumbing rough-in (deck structure and water/drain lines before decking is laid), (3) Final (decking, stairs, hot tub installed and operational test). The caliche complication is that the soil report must accompany your plans to justify the reduced footing depth; without it, inspectors will default to 18 inches. Total timeline: 5–7 weeks (extra time for plumbing coordination and soil testing). Total project cost: $10,000–$16,000 (deck structure + hot tub installation + plumbing hookup).
Sealed PE plans required | Plumbing permit also required | Soil report required (caliche confirmation) | Footing 10–12 inches (with caliche confirmation) | Two concurrent permits | Plan review 2–3 weeks | Four inspections (footing, framing+plumbing, final) | Permit fees $450–$650 | Total project $10,000–$16,000

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Big Spring's frost-depth puzzle and why it matters to your deck

Big Spring sits at the geological boundary between the Edwards Plateau (limestone and caliche, shallow frost) to the west and the Gulf Coast Plain (clay, deeper frost) to the southeast. The City of Big Spring proper, plus suburbs like Crestwood and Scenic Mountain, fall into the central zone with Houston Black clay and a frost line of 12–18 inches. West County (Forsan, Stanton direction) has caliche pockets and 6–8 inch frost lines. The northern edge (Coahoma area) approaches the panhandle's 24-inch frost line. This variation is invisible until you set footings too shallow and frost heave cracks your deck in January.

IRC R507.3 requires footings to be set below the local frost line to prevent heave damage. Big Spring Building Department does not have a single frost-depth ordinance for the whole city; instead, inspectors reference the USDA NRCS soil survey for Howard County (available online and through the county Extension Office). When you submit plans, Big Spring will ask for your property address and may require you to cite the soil survey or submit a geotechnical report. If your footings are shown at 6 inches depth in central Big Spring but the soil survey says 16 inches, plan review will be rejected with a note: 'Footing depth insufficient for local frost line—revise to 18 inches minimum.' This is not a minor cosmetic note; it's a structural safety issue. Frost heave can lift an entire deck corner by 2–3 inches in a single winter, separating the ledger from the house and creating a gap that allows water infiltration and wood rot. Big Spring inspectors treat frost depth as non-negotiable.

To avoid rejection, do this before you draw plans: (1) Look up your property address on the USDA NRCS Web Soil Survey (websoilsurvey.sc.egov.usda.gov) and download the soil map for your area—it will show your soil type and frost line (usually listed in the 'Interpretations for Buildings' section). (2) Contact Howard County Extension (325-264-2236, though hours vary) and ask for frost-line confirmation for your specific address. (3) If you're in a transition zone (West County) or on known caliche, request a geotechnical report ($300–$500) to justify reduced footing depth. Most owner-builders skip step 3 and just use the conservative 18-inch depth for central Big Spring—this is safe and rarely rejected. If you're in Forsan or West County and want to claim the 8-inch caliche frost line, bring the soil report to the pre-permit consultation so the Building Department acknowledges it upfront.

Ledger-board flashing, clay soil, and why Big Spring inspectors obsess over it

The ledger board is where your deck attaches to your house, and it is the single most vulnerable point for water infiltration and wood rot. IRC R507.9 mandates that the ledger board have a flashing that extends at least 4 inches up the house's rim board and 2 inches down the deck rim board, and that the flashing be installed over a moisture barrier (typically a house wrap or felt). In theory, this should be straightforward: buy a piece of galvanized or copper flashing, bolt the ledger to the house with 1/2-inch bolts at 16 inches on center, and you're done. In practice, Big Spring's clay-heavy soil creates a unique problem: expansive clay shrinks and swells with water content, which means the house foundation and the deck footings move at different rates. If the foundation settles or heaves differently from the deck posts, the connection flexes, the bolts loosen, the flashing gets compromised, and water wicks into the rim board. Over 5–10 years, the house band board rots out and the deck starts to sag.

Big Spring Building Department's plan-review checklist includes a specific question: 'Is the ledger flashing detail shown, with location and material specified?' Most owner-drawn plans show a vague note like 'install flashing per code' and get rejected. The fix is to draw a 1:2 detail (or 1:1 if you're handy) showing: (1) the house rim board and band board, (2) the house wrap or felt barrier, (3) the flashing (specify 26-gauge galvanized steel, minimum 2-inch width, or 16oz copper for premium), (4) the ledger board with bolts at 16 inches on center (specify 1/2-inch x 8-inch galvanized lag bolts or through-bolts with washers), (5) the deck rim board or band board on the outer edge. Label the bolts 'Stagger offset-at-least 2-inches from rim board edge to avoid splitting.' Big Spring inspectors want to see that you understand the moisture barrier and the bolt pattern before they approve the deck.

If you're on expansive clay (central Big Spring), consider upgrading the flashing to 20-gauge copper or specifying that the ledger be installed with a rubber or foam gasket (EPDM rubber, 1/8-inch thickness) between the ledger and the house rim board. This allows for slight movement without breaking the flashing seal. Simpson Strong-Tie and Boardwalk both make gasket kits ($30–$50) that are code-compliant and reduce callbacks. Big Spring inspectors appreciate seeing this detail on plans; it shows you've thought through the clay-swell issue. Note it clearly on your detail drawing: 'Ledger board installed with 1/8-inch EPDM gasket to accommodate differential settlement on expansive clay.' You won't earn bonus points, but you'll avoid a 'revise and resubmit' request and speed up plan review by 5–10 days.

City of Big Spring Building Department
City of Big Spring, 310 Nolan Street, Big Spring, TX 79720 (or check city website for Building Dept location)
Phone: Call Big Spring City Hall (325-264-2346) and ask for Building Department or Permits division | Check https://www.bigspringtexas.gov/ for online permit portal or in-person submission instructions
Monday–Friday, 8 AM–5 PM (Central Time); verify local holiday closures on city website

Common questions

Can I build an attached deck without a permit if it's under 200 square feet?

No. Big Spring does not exempt attached decks based on size. Any deck attached to the house (via ledger board) requires a permit, regardless of whether it's 80 square feet or 800 square feet. This is different from some Texas cities that exempt ground-level freestanding decks under 200 square feet. If your deck is attached, you need a permit. Freestanding decks (not bolted to the house) under 200 square feet and under 30 inches high are exempt, but if you're asking, your deck is probably attached.

What if my deck is only 12 inches above grade—does it still need a permit?

Yes. Permit requirement is based on attachment to the house, not height alone. If the ledger is bolted to your house, the deck requires a permit even if it's only 12 inches high. IRC R507 treats any attached deck as a structural extension of the house, so regardless of height, footing depth, flashing, and ledger bolting must be inspected. Big Spring enforces this uniformly.

Do I need a licensed contractor, or can I pull the permit as an owner-builder?

You can pull the permit as owner-builder (homeowner of owner-occupied residential property). Texas allows owner-builders to permit and build their own residential work without a contractor license. However, some cities require a licensed electrician for outdoor electrical work (if you're adding outlets or lighting to the deck). Call Big Spring Building Department and ask: 'Can a homeowner-builder do the deck framing and decking work, or must we hire a licensed contractor?' Some inspectors will accept homeowner framing if the plans are clear; others prefer licensed contractors. Clarify upfront to avoid delays.

How deep do my footings have to be in Big Spring?

The footing depth is determined by the local frost line for your specific address. Most of Big Spring (central city, Crestwood, Scenic Mountain) has a frost line of 16–18 inches, so footings must be set 18 inches below finished grade. West County (Forsan, Stanton) has shallow caliche and 6–8 inch frost lines, though Big Spring typically requires 10–12 inches minimum even with caliche. North Big Spring (Coahoma area) approaches 24-inch frost lines. Use the USDA NRCS Web Soil Survey (websoilsurvey.sc.egov.usda.gov) to look up your property address and find your soil type and frost line. When you submit plans, cite the frost line from the soil survey and show your footing depth accordingly. If your depth doesn't match, Big Spring will reject and ask you to revise.

If I add a hot tub on the deck, do I need a separate plumbing permit?

Yes. A hot tub rough-in (water supply and drain lines) requires a separate Plumbing Permit from Big Spring. The Structural (Building) Permit covers the deck frame; the Plumbing Permit covers the feed and drain lines, valve locations, slope, and cleanout accessibility. You can submit both permits at the same time. Plan review will take slightly longer (2–3 weeks instead of 1–2) because both the structural and plumbing inspectors must sign off. Typical plumbing permit fee for a hot tub rough-in is $150–$250. Final inspection includes a plumbing test (water flow and drain function before the hot tub is filled).

What is the guardrail height requirement for a deck in Big Spring?

Guardrail height must be a minimum of 36 inches, measured vertically from the deck surface to the top rail, per IBC 1015 (which Big Spring adopts). Some jurisdictions require 42 inches, but Big Spring enforces 36 inches. The balusters (vertical spindles) must be spaced no more than 4 inches apart (checked using a 4-inch sphere—a child's head must not fit through). If your deck is 30 inches or higher above grade, a guardrail is required all around. If it's under 30 inches, you don't need a guardrail (though many people add one for safety). Stairs with 4 or more risers require a handrail on at least one side, minimum 34 inches to 38 inches from the stair nosing.

How long does plan review take in Big Spring?

Owner-drawn plans (hand-sketched, homeowner-submitted) typically get over-the-counter review on the same day or within 1–2 business days. Sealed plans by a Texas PE (required for decks over 200 sq ft or over 30 inches high) take 2–3 weeks because they go through the full building official review cycle. If your plans have deficiencies (missing flashing detail, footing depth not shown, etc.), you'll get a 'Revise and Resubmit' mark-up, and re-review adds another 5–10 days. Plan ahead: submit 4–6 weeks before you want to start construction.

What happens at the footing inspection?

The footing inspection occurs after you've dug the holes and set the concrete forms, but before the concrete is poured. The inspector will check: (1) Footing depth (measure with a tape or depth gauge to confirm it meets the frost-line requirement), (2) Hole diameter and form support (ensuring the concrete pad will be large enough and stable), (3) Post location (confirming posts are where the plans show them, and they're not encroaching on property lines or utilities), (4) Concrete strength (if concrete has already been poured, the inspector may verify mix design). The inspection takes 15–30 minutes. If the footing depth is wrong (too shallow), the inspector will fail the inspection and require you to dig deeper. Schedule this inspection as soon as your holes are dug; Big Spring inspectors typically respond within 24–48 hours of a request.

If my deck plan is rejected, how much does a revision cost?

Plan revisions do not cost additional permit fees if they're minor (e.g., redrawing a detail to show flashing clearly). You resubmit the revised plans, and the building official reviews them at no extra charge. However, if a major revision is required (e.g., changing footing depth due to frost-line error, or redesigning the ledger connection because it doesn't meet code), you may need to hire a PE to produce sealed revised plans. A PE's revision typically costs $200–$400. To avoid this, get a pre-permit consultation with Big Spring Building Department (usually free, 15 minutes) and confirm frost depth, ledger detail, and seal-plan requirements before you spend money on drawings.

Can I install the deck myself, or do I need to hire a contractor?

Texas allows owner-builders to construct their own residential decks. You do not need a licensed contractor license to build a deck on your own owner-occupied house. However, you must obtain the permit (which you can do yourself), and you must pass inspections. Some specialized work—electrical (adding outlets) and plumbing (hot tub lines)—may require licensed tradespeople depending on Big Spring's local rules; call the Building Department to confirm. Framing, decking, and guardrails can be done by you, family members, or hired labor (not licensed). The catch: if you make structural mistakes (bolts in wrong places, footings too shallow, ledger flashing wrong), the inspector will catch it and fail you, requiring rework. Most people hire a deck contractor to avoid this risk; typical labor is $30–$50 per hour, and a 12x14 deck takes 40–60 hours.

Disclaimer: This guide is based on research conducted in May 2026 using publicly available sources. Always verify current deck (attached to house) permit requirements with the City of Big Spring Building Department before starting your project.

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