Research by DoINeedAPermit Research Team · Updated May 2026
The Short Answer
Yes. Any attached deck in Binghamton requires a building permit, regardless of size or height. New York State Building Code adoption means IRC R507 deck standards apply, plus Binghamton's 42–48 inch frost-depth requirement that catches many DIYers.
Binghamton treats attached decks differently than some nearby upstate cities: the city enforces frost depth to 48 inches in the northern reaches of the service area (parts of Broome County hit zone 6A), while the southern Binghamton proper sits in 5A at 42 inches minimum. This matters because Binghamton's online permit portal explicitly flags footing-depth non-compliance before plan review even starts—you won't get to the desk without a stamped detail showing frost-safe depths. Unlike some Tier 2 towns in the region that allow single-trade filing (just a ledger detail), Binghamton requires a full deck plan set: footing locations with frost depths, ledger flashing detail per IRC R507.9 (lag screws or bolts), stair landing dimensions per R311.7, and guardrail height (minimum 36 inches, 4-inch sphere rule). The city also requires a plot plan showing setback from property line—Binghamton's zoning code references this in deck submissions, and corner-lot or steep-slope decks sometimes trigger variance review. Plan review typically takes 2–3 weeks; if frost depth is wrong on first submission, expect a full re-review cycle and +1–2 weeks delay.

What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)

Binghamton attached deck permits — the key details

Binghamton Building Department enforces New York State Building Code (which adopts the 2020 IBC and IRC with state amendments). For decks, the critical standard is IRC R507, which governs attachment, framing, footings, and guardrails. The most frequent failure point in Binghamton submissions is the ledger connection detail: IRC R507.9 requires the ledger board to be fastened to the band board or rim joist with 1/2-inch bolts or 1/2-inch lag screws spaced 16 inches on center, with flashing installed above the ledger (not below) to shed water away from the house rim. Many homeowners and even some contractors miss the flashing-above detail or use nails instead of bolts; Binghamton's plan-review team will red-line this on day one. The second critical detail is footing depth: Binghamton sits in ASHRAE zones 5A (south/city proper, 42 inches minimum) and 6A (north/county boundary, 48 inches minimum). A post footing one inch above frost line will fail inspection and force you to dig deeper—if you're at 41 inches in zone 5A, you will get a correction notice. Footings must extend below frost depth, be on undisturbed soil or compacted granular fill, and rest on bedrock or stable glacial till (common in Broome County). IRC R507.1 also specifies that footings must be sized for the load; standard practice in Binghamton is 12x12 inch piers on 48-inch-deep holes, but a PE stamp or a deck-load calculation may be required for large decks (over 400 sq ft) or elevated decks over 8 feet high.

Guardrail height is a common surprise. IRC R312 (adopted in NYSBC) requires guardrails on decks with a drop of 30 inches or more; the height must be 36 inches minimum measured from deck surface to the top of the railing. Binghamton does not locally amend this to 42 inches (unlike some coastal cities in the state), so 36 inches is code-compliant. However, the 4-inch sphere rule (no openings larger than 4 inches that a child's head could fit through) is strictly enforced on plan review; inspectors will measure picket spacing and balusters. If you use horizontal cable railing (popular in modern decks), Binghamton requires either a notarized engineer certification that it meets the sphere rule, or photographic proof from the manufacturer. Stairs are equally strict: IRC R311.7 requires treads to be 10–11 inches deep, risers to be 7–8 inches tall (all risers in a flight must be within 3/8 inch of each other), and landing depth at the bottom to be at least 36 inches. Binghamton's inspectors measure stair geometry in the field; if a riser is 7.5 inches and another is 7.875 inches, you're out of tolerance and will get a correction notice before sign-off.

Electrical and plumbing add complexity. If your deck includes a built-in hot tub, outdoor lighting, or an underground supply line, you'll need separate electrical and plumbing permits filed alongside the deck permit. Binghamton's permit system (accessed via the city's online portal or in-person at 38 Hawley Street) allows you to bundle permits; the electrical inspector and plumbing inspector coordinate with the building inspector. Note that most deck projects don't trigger electrical/plumbing; a post light mounted on the house exterior before the ledger or solar deck lights need only a standby note on the deck plan, not a full electrical permit. A deck with a drain line for a hot tub, however, will require Binghamton's plumbing inspector to review footing/deck interaction with the drainage—add 1–2 weeks to the timeline.

Binghamton's online permit portal (accessible via the city's building department page) requires you to upload a plan set before scheduling an in-person consultation. The portal flags obvious non-compliance (footing depth above frost line, missing flashing detail, stair riser out of range) and may auto-reject incomplete sets. If the portal doesn't flag it, the plan-review team will. The city recommends submitting a PDF set with: site plan (scaled, showing deck location and setback from property lines), elevation view (showing ledger, footing depth, guardrail height), detail views (ledger flashing, post-to-beam connection, stair stringer), and a materials list. For most residential decks, you do not need a PE stamp, but if the deck is over 400 sq ft, elevated more than 12 feet, or will support a hot tub or snow load (Binghamton gets 90+ inches per season), a PE-stamped structural design is recommended and may be required by the plan-review team. The city's default assumption is that deck loads are per IRC (40 psf live load, 10 psf dead load), but the plan-review engineer may ask for a calculation if the footprint or height is unusual.

Inspection sequence matters for scheduling. Once the permit is issued, you'll schedule three inspections: (1) footing pre-pour (city inspector verifies depth, spacing, and soil stability—do not pour concrete until this is signed off); (2) framing (ledger bolts in place, band board secured, joists nailed per code, guardrail posts installed); (3) final (stairs present, guardrails at correct height and sphere-rule compliant, flashing visible, no gaps or code violations). Each inspection must be scheduled at least 24 hours in advance via the portal or by phone; most inspectors complete them same-day or next-day. The typical timeline from permit issuance to final approval is 4–6 weeks if you submit a clean plan set, coordinate inspections promptly, and make no field deviations. If the plan review flags issues (frost depth, flashing, stair geometry), add 2–4 weeks for resubmission and re-review.

Three Binghamton deck (attached to house) scenarios

Scenario A
12×16 ft attached deck, 4 feet above grade, no electrical, Binghamton city proper (42-inch frost zone)
You're building a standard composite-decking deck off the rear of your home in the Binghamton city center (south of the Susquehanna River, zone 5A frost depth 42 inches). The deck is 192 sq ft, so it exceeds the 200 sq ft exemption threshold—wait, it's under 200 sq ft, but it's 4 feet (48 inches) above grade, so it exceeds the 30-inch height threshold in IRC R105.2, triggering a permit requirement. You'll need four 4×4 posts on 12×12 inch concrete piers, frost-depth minimum 42 inches. Binghamton's soil is glacial till with some bedrock, so you'll likely hit solid ground around 48–54 inches; the footing location map (available from the Binghamton DPW or online) shows this zone typically achieves frost-safe depth easily. You submit a plan set showing the 12 inch ledger flashing detail per IRC R507.9 (lag bolts or 1/2 inch bolts 16 inches on center), 36-inch guardrails on three sides (rear and sides exposed; front side attached to house), 2×8 joists 16 inches on center, and 2×6 rim board. Stairs are 3 risers (7.5 inches each) with a 36-inch landing at bottom. Binghamton's plan-review team approves in 2–3 weeks (no issues flagged; frost depth is clear on the detail). Permit cost is approximately $250–$350 (based on $20,000–$25,000 estimated deck valuation, typically 1–1.5% of project cost). You schedule three inspections: footing pre-pour (5 minutes, approve if depth and soil are good), framing (30 minutes, check ledger bolts, post-to-beam connectors, joists), final (20 minutes, verify guardrail height and sphere rule, stair geometry, flashing). Total timeline from submission to final approval: 5–7 weeks if you're responsive to inspection scheduling.
Permit required (attached + over 30 inches) | 42-inch frost depth | Ledger bolts 16 inch o.c. required | Plot plan with property setbacks needed | Three inspections mandatory | Estimated permit fee $250–$350 | Total project cost $8,000–$15,000
Scenario B
20×20 ft composite deck, 8 feet high, with deck lighting, steep slope with HOA, north Binghamton (48-inch frost zone 6A)
You own a hilltop home in the Binghamton Heights area (north of the city, zone 6A, 48-inch frost depth minimum). You're building a larger deck (400 sq ft, well over the 200 sq ft threshold) that sits 8 feet above finished grade on the downslope side. This triggers multiple layers of review: (1) structural — 400 sq ft at 8 feet elevation with composite decking requires a PE-stamped design per Binghamton's policy for decks over 400 sq ft (the city will request this on plan review or flag it as likely required); (2) frost depth — 48 inches minimum for zone 6A means your post footings must reach deeper than a city-proper project, adding dig cost; (3) setback and zoning — your HOA likely has design guidelines, and Binghamton's zoning code requires minimum 10-foot rear setback (verify your specific district; some hillside overlays add restrictions); (4) electrical — you want deck lighting, so you'll file a separate electrical permit for a 20-amp circuit from the house panel to a weatherproof junction box on the deck. Binghamton requires the electrical inspector to coordinate with the building inspector; the electrical detail must show the conduit route from house to deck (typically buried 24 inches deep or in a PVC sleeve across the ledger area). The deck plan set now includes: engineer-stamped structural design (add $800–$1,500 for a PE to review the 400 sq ft load and 8-foot elevation), footing locations showing 48-inch depths on a geotechnical note (glacial till in this area is deeper, so you may hit bedrock at 54–60 inches, requiring structural fill or caisson design—flag this risk with your contractor), and setback verification from the property line survey. Ledger detail is identical to scenario A (bolts 16 inch o.c., flashing above), but the plan-review team will also check for lateral bracing (the deck is tall, so wind load may require diagonal bracing or additional post connections per IRC R507.3—a PE stamp will address this). Plan review takes 3–4 weeks (includes engineer review + electrical coordination). Permit fees: deck permit $400–$550 (higher valuation, ~$30,000–$40,000 for a 400 sq ft composite deck + labor-intensive footing dig); electrical permit $100–$200. Inspections: footing pre-pour (critical—inspector verifies bedrock depth and compacted fill), framing (verify PE details are followed), electrical rough-in (conduit route, box placement), final (guardrail, stairs, electrical box cover-plate). Total timeline: 8–10 weeks from submission to final approval (includes plan-review time + electrical coordination + possible footing redesign if bedrock is deeper than expected).
Permit required (attached + over 30 inches + large deck) | PE stamp required for 400+ sq ft deck | 48-inch frost depth in zone 6A | Electrical permit required for deck lighting | HOA design approval needed separately | Estimated deck permit fee $400–$550 | Estimated electrical permit fee $100–$200 | Total project cost $18,000–$28,000
Scenario C
16×12 ft ground-level deck (24 inches above grade), freestanding, corner lot adjacent to sidewalk ROW, Binghamton central
You want a smaller deck on a corner lot in downtown Binghamton or a central neighborhood. The deck is 192 sq ft (under 200 sq ft) and 24 inches above grade (under 30 inches), which would normally be exempt under IRC R105.2. However, your corner lot has the deck location near the public right-of-way (sidewalk/street setback). Here's where Binghamton's local zoning becomes decisive: the city's zoning code (Chapter 315 or similar; verify with the Binghamton Planning Department) specifies minimum front and side-yard setbacks—typically 25 feet from the street for residential lots, or more for corner lots. If your deck sits within the ROW or front-yard setback, it may be non-compliant with zoning regardless of building code exemption, triggering a variance. Additionally, if the deck is described as "freestanding" but is actually attached to the house (even with a small ledger board), it's an attached deck and requires a permit. Assuming the deck IS truly freestanding (posts only, no ledger) and within the setback, you still have two paths: (1) file a simple exemption declaration with Binghamton's Building Department (the city's portal allows you to self-certify exemptions per R105.2; submit a photo, dimensions, and a plot plan showing the location—this takes 1–2 weeks); (2) if the location is unclear or near the ROW, hire a surveyor to verify setback compliance (~$300–$500), then file with the survey attached. If the setback is compliant, no permit is required, and you don't pay a permit fee. However, if the inspector flags a setback violation during a neighbor complaint or spot-inspection, you'll face a code-compliance order to move or remove the deck (estimated removal cost $2,000–$4,000 + rebuilding elsewhere). The safer move: contact Binghamton's zoning office before you dig; a quick call confirms whether the corner-lot setback allows a freestanding deck there. If it does, skip the permit and the fee. If it doesn't, either file a variance (add 4–8 weeks) or relocate the deck.
No permit if freestanding + under 200 sq ft + under 30 inches + compliant with setback | Setback verification critical on corner lots | Exemption self-certification allowed (1–2 weeks) | If setback-non-compliant: variance required (4–8 weeks, $200–$400 variance fee) | Surveyor (optional) $300–$500 | Total project cost $4,000–$8,000 (no permit fees if compliant)

Every project is different.

Get your exact answer →
Takes 60 seconds · Personalized to your address

Frost depth in Binghamton: why 42–48 inches matters for deck footings

Binghamton's frost line varies by zone and local geology. The city sits on the northern edge of a glacial moraine; the ASHRAE winter design temperature shows zone 5A (south/central city, approximately -10°F 99th percentile) at 42 inches frost depth, and zone 6A (north county, approximately -15°F) at 48 inches. The variance isn't academic—it's the difference between a 4-foot post hole and a 5.5-foot hole. Soil surveys from the Broome County NRCS (Natural Resources Conservation Service) show that most Binghamton area is glacial till (dense, stable) with pockets of sand and occasional bedrock outcrops. In the southern city proper, you're likely to hit competent soil at 48–54 inches; north of the Susquehanna River or in the Heights, bedrock appears at 54–72 inches. If you don't go deep enough, frost heave will push the deck post upward during winter freeze cycles (ice lenses in the soil expand), causing the deck to lift, the ledger to separate from the house, and guardrails to become non-compliant.

Binghamton's Building Department requires frost-depth notation on every deck plan set, with the zone clearly marked. If you submit a plan for zone 5A showing 42-inch footings and the property is actually in zone 6A (an easy mistake on a zone boundary), the plan-review team will flag it or, worse, the inspector will reject the footing pre-pour when they see your holes are 1 inch too shallow. The solution: use the Binghamton city or Broome County GIS mapping to determine your zone, or ask the city directly. If you're within 1 mile of the zone boundary, assume the worst case (48 inches) and dig accordingly.

Footing type also matters. Most deck contractors in Binghamton use post-holes dug with a power auger, set 12×12 inch concrete piers flush with (or just below) finished grade. The frost depth is measured from finished grade down, so if you have a deck that sits 4 feet above the natural slope, the frost depth is still measured from the deck's finished surface, not the lowest point. Some contractors mistakenly measure frost depth from the original grade elevation; Binghamton's inspector will catch this and demand the holes be re-dug or the concrete broken out and re-poured at the correct depth. Always verify frost-depth calculation with the city or a PE before pouring.

Ledger flashing and the $5,000 water-damage lesson

The ledger board—the 2×8 or 2×10 that bolts the deck to the house's band board—is the single most failure-prone detail in residential deck construction nationwide. In Binghamton, where winter snow melt and ice dams are common (average 90+ inches per season), flashing is not optional; it's the barrier between your deck and a rotted rim joist. IRC R507.9 specifies that flashing must be installed above the ledger to direct water away from the house rim. Many DIYers and even some contractors install flashing below the ledger or omit it entirely, thinking bolts and caulk are enough. They're not. Water wicks up the back of the house rim, into the band board, and rots it from the inside—by the time you see damage (soft wood, discoloration), you're looking at $3,000–$8,000 in rim-joist replacement and structural repair.

Binghamton's plan-review team red-lines missing or incorrect flashing immediately. The approved detail shows: 1) bolts or lag screws (1/2 inch diameter) spaced 16 inches on center through the ledger into the house rim; 2) flashing (aluminum or rubber EPDM, minimum 6 inches tall, bent over the top of the ledger and under the house band-board siding or wrap); 3) sealant (polyurethane or silicone, applied around the bolts and to the flashing seams, not instead of the bolts). If your submitted plan shows flashing below, sideways, or missing, the city will issue a correction notice; resubmission takes another 1–2 weeks. On final inspection, the inspector will look at the actual flashing installation in the field—if it's been caulked over or hidden behind siding, the inspector will require it be exposed for verification. Do not build with flashing confusion; ask your PE or the city's plan-review team to mark up a detail photo before you order materials.

One additional note for Binghamton decks: if your house rim includes foam insulation (common on newer homes), the flashing and bolts must still penetrate the rim board itself, not sit on the foam. The city's inspector will verify this and may require you to remove insulation around the bolt holes or use a stainless-steel washer large enough (2 inches minimum) to bear on solid wood, not foam. This is a small detail that catches many modern builds.

City of Binghamton Building Department
38 Hawley Street, Binghamton, NY 13902
Phone: (607) 772-7002 (main); confirm building permit line with city hall | https://www.binghamtonny.gov/ (navigate to Building Department or Permits; online portal for plan submission may be available via this site or linked city system)
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM–5:00 PM (call to confirm permit office hours; may vary seasonally)

Common questions

Do I need a permit for a small ground-level deck under 200 sq ft in Binghamton?

Only if it's under 30 inches above grade and not attached to the house. If it's a freestanding, ground-level deck under 200 sq ft and under 30 inches, it's exempt per IRC R105.2 and New York State Building Code. However, verify with Binghamton's zoning that it complies with front/side-yard setbacks; a corner-lot deck near the property line may still require a variance even if it's code-exempt from a structural standpoint. Contact the Building Department to self-certify the exemption, or hire a surveyor to verify setback compliance (~$300–$500).

What is Binghamton's permit fee for an attached deck?

Permit fees are typically calculated at 1–1.5% of the estimated construction valuation. A 12×16 ft composite deck ($20,000–$25,000 estimated value) costs $250–$350 for the deck permit. A larger deck (20×20 ft, $30,000–$40,000) costs $400–$550. The city may also charge an additional plan-review fee ($50–$100) if the submission is incomplete or requires engineer review. Call the Building Department at (607) 772-7002 to get a fee estimate based on your project scope and materials before submitting.

Do I need a PE (Professional Engineer) stamp for my Binghamton deck?

Not always, but Binghamton's Building Department typically requires a PE stamp for decks over 400 sq ft, decks elevated more than 12 feet, or decks that will support a hot tub or other concentrated load. For a standard 12×16 ft elevated deck, a PE stamp is usually not required if you follow IRC standard construction (2×8 joists, bolted ledger, proper footings). However, if the plan-review team flags any unusual geometry, soil condition, or height, they may request one. A PE-stamped structural design costs $800–$1,500 and adds 1–2 weeks to the review timeline.

How deep do deck footings need to be in Binghamton?

Binghamton's frost depth is 42 inches for zone 5A (south/central city) and 48 inches for zone 6A (north/county boundary). Your deck footings must extend at least this deep below finished grade and rest on undisturbed soil or compacted granular fill. Use the city's GIS or zoning map to confirm your zone, or ask the Building Department. If you're near a zone boundary, assume 48 inches to be safe. Frost heave from shallow footings will lift the deck and separate the ledger from the house, causing guardrail failure and water infiltration.

What is the inspection process for a deck permit in Binghamton?

Three inspections are mandatory: (1) Footing pre-pour—do not pour concrete until the city inspector signs off on hole depth, spacing, and soil stability (schedule 24 hours in advance via the permit portal or phone); (2) Framing—ledger bolts, joists, rim board, guardrail posts in place (inspector checks bolts are 16 inches o.c., flashing is visible, connections are secure); (3) Final—stairs present and within code, guardrails at 36 inches height with no gaps larger than 4 inches, flashing installed, no code violations. Each inspection typically takes 20–40 minutes. Schedule all three before you start work; delays waiting for inspectors can add 1–2 weeks to your timeline.

Can I build my deck if I'm the owner but not a licensed contractor in Binghamton?

Yes. New York State allows owner-builder construction for owner-occupied residential properties. You can pull a permit in your name and self-perform the work, though you must meet all code requirements and pass all three inspections. Many Binghamton homeowners hire a contractor to do the work (even if the owner pulls the permit) because the contractor has experience with local code and frost-depth requirements. If you DIY, review the deck plan detail with the city's plan-review team before you start; a 30-minute pre-construction call with the Building Department can prevent expensive corrections later.

What happens if Binghamton's plan-review team rejects my deck plan submission?

The city issues a correction notice specifying what's non-compliant (e.g., footing depth above frost line, flashing detail missing, stair riser out of tolerance, guardrail height wrong). You have 15–30 days to resubmit a corrected plan. Common rejections in Binghamton are frost-depth errors (shows 42 inches in a 48-inch zone), missing ledger-flashing detail, and stair geometry (risers not within 3/8 inch of each other). If the rejection is a simple detail fix (add flashing, adjust frost-depth note), resubmission takes 1–2 weeks. If it requires structural redesign (large deck over poor soil), hiring a PE adds 2–4 weeks and $800–$1,500.

Are there overlay districts in Binghamton that affect deck permits (historic, flood, steep-slope)?

Yes. The City of Binghamton has historic districts (downtown, neighborhoods like Hawley Street area) where exterior modifications including decks may require Historic Preservation Commission (HPC) approval alongside the building permit. The city also has flood-hazard zones (along the Susquehanna River and creeks) where elevated decks must meet floodplain elevation requirements per FEMA; if your property is in a flood zone (check FEMA's Flood Map Service Center), you'll need a floodplain permit and may need FEMA elevation verification. Steep-slope areas in the north (Binghamton Heights) may have stormwater runoff restrictions. Check your property's zoning overlay before submitting the deck permit; contact the Binghamton Planning Department or use the city's GIS map to confirm.

Can I add electrical outlets or a hot tub to my Binghamton deck?

Yes, but they require separate permits. Electrical outlets or lighting on a deck need a separate electrical permit filed with the Building Department; the electrical inspector will review the circuit design, conduit routing (usually buried 24 inches deep or in PVC sleeve across the ledger), and junction-box placement. A built-in hot tub also requires a separate plumbing permit for the drain line and possibly a structural review if it concentrates a load (hot tubs add 300+ lbs of water weight). Electrical and plumbing permits cost $100–$200 each and add 1–2 weeks to the plan-review and inspection timeline. Coordinate all three inspections (building, electrical, plumbing) with the city so they can be scheduled efficiently.

What is the typical timeline from permit application to final approval in Binghamton?

If you submit a complete, code-compliant plan set, expect 5–7 weeks: 2–3 weeks for plan review, 2–4 weeks for construction and inspection scheduling. If the plan-review team flags issues (frost depth, flashing, stair geometry), add 2–4 weeks for resubmission and re-review. For large decks requiring a PE stamp or electrical coordination, add another 1–2 weeks. If you encounter unexpected site conditions (bedrock shallower than expected, soil instability), footing redesign can add 2–4 weeks. Start early; Binghamton's building office gets busy in spring/summer (peak deck season), and inspectors can be scheduled 2–4 weeks out.

Disclaimer: This guide is based on research conducted in May 2026 using publicly available sources. Always verify current deck (attached to house) permit requirements with the City of Binghamton Building Department before starting your project.

Keep researching

Deck (Attached to House) permits in other New York cities
Other permits in Binghamton
Deck (Attached to House) permits in popular cities
Browse all

More permit guides

National guides for the most-asked homeowner permit projects. Each goes deep on code thresholds, common rejections, fees, and timeline.

Roof Replacement

Layer count, deck inspection, ice dam protection, hurricane straps.

Deck

Attached vs freestanding, footings, frost depth, ledger, height/area thresholds.

Kitchen Remodel

Plumbing, electrical, gas line, ventilation, structural changes.

Solar Panels

Structural review, electrical interconnection, fire setbacks, AHJ approval.

Fence

Height/material limits, sight triangles, pool barriers, setbacks.

HVAC

Equipment changeouts, ductwork, combustion air, ventilation, IMC sections.

Bathroom Remodel

Plumbing rough-in, ventilation, electrical (GFCI/AFCI), waterproofing.

Electrical Work

Subpermits, NEC sections, panel upgrades, GFCI/AFCI, who can pull.

Basement Finishing

Egress, ceiling height, electrical, moisture barriers, occupancy rules.

Room Addition

Foundation, footings, framing, electrical/plumbing extensions, structural.

Accessory Dwelling Units (ADU)

When permits are required, code thresholds, JADU vs ADU, electrical/plumbing/parking rules.

New Windows

Egress, header sizing, structural cuts, fire-rating, energy code.

Heat Pump

Electrical capacity, refrigerant handling, condensate, IECC compliance.

Hurricane Retrofit

Roof straps, garage door bracing, opening protection, FL OIR product approval.

Pool

Barriers, alarms, electrical bonding, plumbing, separation distances.

Fireplace & Wood Stove

Hearth, clearances, chimney, gas line work, NFPA 211.

Sump Pump

Discharge location, electrical, backup options, plumbing tie-in.

Mini-Split

Refrigerant lines, condensate, electrical disconnect, line set sleeve.