What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)
- Stop-work order and $500–$1,000 municipal citation; city may require complete removal and re-installation under permit at double cost.
- HOA violation fine of $50–$500 per month until corrected, plus potential lien on your property if unpaid beyond 90 days.
- Insurance claim denial if fence damage or neighbor injury occurs; most homeowner policies exclude unpermitted structures.
- Closing/refinance blocked: title company or lender discovery of unpermitted fence can halt sale or loan approval, requiring permit retroactively or demolition.
Highland fence permits — the key details
Highland City's fence rules track Utah's state exemption threshold but layer on neighborhood-specific enforcement that surprises many homeowners. Under 6 feet tall, side or rear yard, wood/vinyl/chain-link, non-masonry — those fences typically need no permit. But Highland's code requires ALL fence owners to submit HOA approval first, and the city will not issue a permit number until proof of HOA sign-off is on file. This delays even exempt fences by 1–2 weeks if HOA turnaround is slow. Corner lots and flag lots (common in Highland's older neighborhoods like Traverse Ridge and Aspen Ridge) trigger an additional layer: the city's sight-distance overlay. Any fence on a corner lot, even a 4-foot chain-link in the rear, must be set back far enough that vehicles exiting the property have clear sightlines per Utah Transportation Code. The city planning department measures and enforces this strictly; violation can force removal at $2,000–$5,000 cost. The Wasatch Fault seismic zone also means masonry fences over 4 feet almost always require a registered engineer's footing and bracing detail; this adds $300–$800 to your cost and 2–3 weeks to review.
Height is measured from the finished grade at the fence line, not from your landscaping or the natural slope of your lot. On Wasatch-side slopes, where homes sit on fill or cut, the city will have you certify finished grade before the permit is issued. A fence that looks 5 feet tall on the downslope side may measure 7 feet on the upslope side, triggering a permit requirement. Post spacing (typically 6 feet on center for chain-link, 8 feet for wood) is not regulated by the city code but is expected to match industry standard per the International Building Code Section 3109. Material specifications matter: vinyl and chain-link are self-limiting on height (manufacturers' ratings), but wood fence must be engineered if over 6 feet or in a high-wind exposure (like hilltop lots in Aspen Ridge). Treated posts must be rated for the soil (Highland's lake-bed clay is mildly expansive; UC4B rating is the standard). Post footing depth in Highland is 30–48 inches below finished grade to clear the frost line; shallower footings will heave and fail by spring. The city may ask for footing detail on any fence over 4 feet or on slopes steeper than 1:3.
Pool barrier fences are a separate category and always require a permit, regardless of height or location. These must meet the International Building Code Section 3110.9 (now referenced in Utah Code) and include self-closing, self-latching gates with hardware rated for a 15-pound pull force. Gaps in the fence must be under 4 inches; picket spacing, rail spacing, everything is measured. Highland's city engineer or an approved inspector will do a final inspection of pool barriers, including the latch mechanism. If your pool is in an interior yard (surrounded by the fence), the city will want to see that the pool house door or sliding-glass doors to the pool area are also gated or alarmed. Pool barrier review adds 1–2 weeks to the permit timeline and costs $75–$150 in permit fees.
Replacements of existing fences are sometimes exempt if the new fence matches the old one in height, material, and location. Highland allows this, but you must file a replacement affidavit with photos of the old fence and a written statement that you are not changing height or setback. If you are moving the fence line, increasing height, or changing material significantly (e.g., replacing a 4-foot chain-link with a 6-foot vinyl privacy fence), it requires a full permit. The city's online portal has a dropdown for 'Replacement — same dimensions'; use this if applicable. This can save $50–$100 in fees and cut review time to 1–2 days.
Easements and recorded utility corridors are common in Highland, especially near roads and in neighborhoods with shared infrastructure. If your lot is crossed by a storm-drain easement, utility easement, or access easement, the city will not permit a fence that blocks or encroaches the easement without written consent from the easement holder (usually the city engineer's office or the county). In some cases, you can build the fence back-set from the easement, but the city has to measure and approve the alignment first. This adds 2–3 weeks and sometimes a small engineering fee ($100–$200). If you are unsure whether your lot has easements, ask for a title report copy from your realtor or county assessor before you design the fence.
Three Highland fence (wood/vinyl/metal/chain-link) scenarios
Highland's HOA pre-approval requirement and why it delays almost every fence
Highland City has a unique local requirement that is NOT in the state statute: you cannot pull a fence permit from the city without proof of HOA approval. This is a city-level enforcement policy, not a Utah state rule, and it catches out-of-state homeowners frequently. Most Utah cities let you pull the permit and then handle HOA separately; Highland reverses the order. If your property is in an HOA (which covers 80% of Highland, including all of Aspen Ridge, Traverse Ridge, and most of the newer north-end neighborhoods), you must get written HOA approval on a form (usually 'Architectural Review Approval' or 'Fence Variance Form') signed and dated, then submit it to the city before the permit is issued.
HOA review timelines vary wildly: some HOAs (like Traverse Ridge) review in 7–10 days; others (like Aspen Ridge) require a full 30-day architectural review process and sometimes request engineering if the fence is tall or masonry. Do not assume your HOA will rubber-stamp it. Many Highland HOAs have strict rules on fence color, material, and height that differ from city code. For example, an HOA might say vinyl is 'not permitted' or 'only earth tones allowed,' which means your fence must also meet those rules. The city will issue the permit if it meets city code, but the HOA can fine you or demand removal if it violates the CC&Rs. Get the HOA approval letter FIRST, then file with the city. Budget 4–6 weeks if HOA review is slow; contact your HOA management company immediately to confirm the timeline.
If your lot is NOT in an HOA, you do not need HOA approval, and you can pull the permit directly from the city. Unincorporated lots (rare in Highland proper, but some exist in outlying areas) are not subject to HOA review. Confirm your HOA status with the county assessor or your title report before you call the city. If you are unsure, assume you have an HOA and ask your property manager or management company for the approval form. The city will not issue the permit without it if one exists.
Wasatch Frost Depth, Clay Soil, and Why Your Fence Posts Will Heave Without Proper Footing
Highland sits on Lake Bonneville sediments — ancient clay and silt deposited when the pre-Pleistocene lake receded. This soil is mildly expansive, meaning it swells when wet and shrinks when dry, and it is extremely susceptible to frost heave. The Wasatch Valley frost depth is 30–48 inches, depending on exposure and location within Highland. Exposed hilltop lots (Aspen Ridge, Traverse Ridge) run closer to 48 inches; protected valley lots may be 36–42 inches. Any fence post set shallower than the frost line will heave out of the ground by early spring, pushing the fence upward and cracking the soil around the post. This is one of the most common fence failures in Highland, and it is entirely preventable with proper footing.
The city's code (adopted from IBC 3109) requires footing depth to 'below the frost line.' Highland's building department interprets this as a minimum of 36 inches in valley locations and 42–48 inches on exposed slopes. For wood fence, posts must be set in concrete, and the concrete must extend at least 6 inches above grade to prevent water pooling at the base (which accelerates wood rot). For metal posts (vinyl, aluminum sleeve), concrete is also required to at least 6 inches above grade. Chain-link tension wire and cap rail can sit on top of concrete; do not embed them. When you submit your site plan for permit, the city may ask for footing detail if the fence is over 4 feet or on a slope. You can provide a standard detail (4x4 post, 8-foot spacing, 36–48 inches deep, 6 inches above grade, 50-pound concrete bag per hole, tamped backfill). Some cities accept this boilerplate; Highland often does, but masonry or tall fences may trigger an engineered footing design.
Soil testing is rare on residential fences in Highland unless the lot is on fill or cut (near Wasatch Fault areas or recent developments). If your lot was graded or excavated in the last 5 years, the building department may ask for a soil-engineer letter confirming proper compaction. This is not a major cost ($200–$500 from a geotech firm) but can add 1–2 weeks to review. If you live in Traverse Ridge, Aspen Ridge, or any development with significant grading, assume the city may ask for this. Have the developer's grading plan ready if you have it.
10050 North Canyon Road, Highland, UT 84003
Phone: (801) 763-9400 (main city line; ask for Building Department) | https://www.ci.highland.ut.us/ (check 'Permits' or 'Building Services' tab for online portal link)
Monday–Friday, 8 AM–5 PM (verify during holidays)
Common questions
Do I need HOA approval before I can get a fence permit in Highland?
Yes, if your property is in an HOA (which covers ~80% of Highland's residential lots). Highland City requires written HOA approval before it will issue a fence permit. Contact your HOA management company first, request the 'Architectural Review Approval' or 'Fence Variance' form, and submit the signed approval to the city building department along with your permit application. This is a city-level requirement unique to Highland and typically delays permits by 2–4 weeks. If your lot is NOT in an HOA, you do not need HOA approval.
How deep do fence posts need to be set in Highland?
Highland's frost line is 30–48 inches below finished grade, depending on exposure and location. Posts must be set at least 36 inches deep in valley areas and 42–48 inches on hilltops like Aspen Ridge. Posts must be set in concrete that extends 6 inches above grade to prevent water pooling and rot. The city's code requires footing to be 'below the frost line,' and violations lead to heave and failure by spring. This is a common problem on Highland fences set at the 24–30 inch depth recommended for warmer climates.
Can I replace my old fence without a permit?
Yes, if the new fence matches the old one in height, material, and location within 6 inches. File a 'Replacement Fence' affidavit with the city (available on their online portal) along with a photo of the old fence. You still need HOA approval if applicable. If you are increasing height, moving the fence line more than 6 inches, or changing to a dramatically different material, you need a full permit.
What if my fence is on a corner lot? Do I need a permit?
Yes. Highland enforces a strict sight-distance overlay on corner lots to ensure vehicles exiting the property have clear sightlines. Any fence on a corner lot, even if it is under 6 feet, must be set back far enough to meet sight-distance requirements per Utah Transportation Code. You will need a surveyor-certified site plan showing property lines and fence setback. The city's planning department reviews this and may require fence relocation. Violations can result in stop-work orders and forced removal.
Do pool barrier fences always require a permit?
Yes, always. Pool barriers require a permit regardless of height or location. The fence must include a self-closing, self-latching gate with hardware tested and rated for 15-pound pull force, gaps no wider than 4 inches throughout, and final inspection by the city or approved inspector. Permit fee is $100–$125, and the inspection is an additional $50. The review timeline is 2–3 weeks due to latch specification review.
What's the maximum fence height allowed in Highland?
Side and rear yards: 6 feet is the standard permit-exempt threshold for wood, vinyl, and chain-link. Front yards: fence height is limited by setback and sight-distance rules; typically 3–4 feet maximum near the street. Masonry fence: 4 feet permit-exempt; over 4 feet requires a permit and often engineering review due to seismic zone and footing requirements. Check with the city on your specific lot and location before designing.
If my fence is crossed by a utility easement, can I still build it?
Not without approval from the easement holder (usually the city engineer's office, county, or utility company). Easements are common in Highland, especially near roads and in developments with shared storm-drain or utility infrastructure. You may be able to build the fence back-set from the easement, but the city must measure and approve alignment first. This adds 2–3 weeks and sometimes a $100–$200 engineering fee. Request an easement report from your title company or county assessor before you design the fence.
How much does a fence permit cost in Highland?
Permit fees range from $50–$150, depending on whether it is a replacement (often $50–$75 flat) or a new fence requiring full review ($100–$150). Pool barrier permits are $100–$125 plus a $50 final inspection fee. Masonry or engineered fences may have additional review fees ($100–$200). Check the city's current fee schedule on their website or call the building department for an exact quote.
What happens if I build a fence without a permit and the city finds out?
The city can issue a stop-work order and a citation of $500–$1,000. You may be required to remove and rebuild the fence under permit (doubling costs). If the fence violates HOA rules, your HOA can impose fines of $50–$500 per month until corrected and can file a lien on your property. Insurance claims may be denied if the fence is unpermitted. Title and refinance issues can arise at closing if the unpermitted fence is discovered by the lender or title company.
Can the homeowner (me) pull the fence permit, or does it have to be a contractor?
Highland allows owner-builder permits for owner-occupied residential properties, including fences. You can pull the permit yourself as long as you own and occupy the home. You will need to submit a site plan with property lines and setback dimensions; the city's online portal has an application form. The HOA approval letter must still be submitted. You can then hire a contractor to build, but the permit is in your name. Some contractors may require the homeowner to pull the permit; others pull it on your behalf for a small fee.
More permit guides
National guides for the most-asked homeowner permit projects. Each goes deep on code thresholds, common rejections, fees, and timeline.
Roof Replacement
Layer count, deck inspection, ice dam protection, hurricane straps.
Deck
Attached vs freestanding, footings, frost depth, ledger, height/area thresholds.
Kitchen Remodel
Plumbing, electrical, gas line, ventilation, structural changes.
Solar Panels
Structural review, electrical interconnection, fire setbacks, AHJ approval.
Fence
Height/material limits, sight triangles, pool barriers, setbacks.
HVAC
Equipment changeouts, ductwork, combustion air, ventilation, IMC sections.
Bathroom Remodel
Plumbing rough-in, ventilation, electrical (GFCI/AFCI), waterproofing.
Electrical Work
Subpermits, NEC sections, panel upgrades, GFCI/AFCI, who can pull.
Basement Finishing
Egress, ceiling height, electrical, moisture barriers, occupancy rules.
Room Addition
Foundation, footings, framing, electrical/plumbing extensions, structural.
Accessory Dwelling Units (ADU)
When permits are required, code thresholds, JADU vs ADU, electrical/plumbing/parking rules.
New Windows
Egress, header sizing, structural cuts, fire-rating, energy code.
Heat Pump
Electrical capacity, refrigerant handling, condensate, IECC compliance.
Hurricane Retrofit
Roof straps, garage door bracing, opening protection, FL OIR product approval.
Pool
Barriers, alarms, electrical bonding, plumbing, separation distances.
Fireplace & Wood Stove
Hearth, clearances, chimney, gas line work, NFPA 211.
Sump Pump
Discharge location, electrical, backup options, plumbing tie-in.
Mini-Split
Refrigerant lines, condensate, electrical disconnect, line set sleeve.