Research by DoINeedAPermit Research Team · Updated May 2026
The Short Answer
Fences under 6 feet in side or rear yards are permit-exempt in Howard; anything in a front yard, over 6 feet, masonry over 4 feet, or a pool barrier requires a permit from the City of Howard Building Department.
Howard's code follows Wisconsin's baseline but adds a strict corner-lot sight-line overlay that many homeowners miss. Any fence in a front yard — even a short chainlink gate — requires a permit and must meet setback rules that protect traffic sight lines; on a corner lot, the Building Department measures sight triangles at the property corner, and violations can force removal. Howard's frost depth of 48 inches means footing depth is non-negotiable for masonry; the Building Department will red-tag a brick or stone fence with shallow footings, and that's expensive to fix mid-build. Unlike some Wisconsin towns that allow over-the-counter same-day submits for simple under-6-ft fences, Howard's portal process typically takes 5–7 business days even for exempt fences if you want documentation; if you build first and ask permission later, the inspector has authority to issue a stop-work order and require the fence to come down. Pool barriers are treated as life-safety — self-closing, self-latching gates are mandatory, and the Building Department will not issue a final approval without photographic proof of the latch function.

What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)

Howard WI fence permits — the key details

Howard's permit threshold is straightforward on the surface: wood, vinyl, or chainlink fences under 6 feet tall in side or rear yards do not require a permit, per the Wisconsin Building Code adoption and Howard's local zoning ordinance. However, the exception is narrow and absolute — any fence that sits in a front yard, regardless of height, requires a permit. This is where Howard diverges from some neighboring communities: the city's interpretation of 'front yard' includes any fence visible from the public right-of-way, and corner lots are subject to a sight-triangle calculation. If you live on a corner lot and want to install a 4-foot privacy fence along the side that fronts the cross-street, you must file for a permit and demonstrate that the fence sits outside the sight triangle (typically a 10-foot setback from the corner), measured per the traffic engineer's guidelines. The Building Department publishes a one-page summary on their website, but most of the detail lives in the zoning code and the permit application itself, so calling ahead is worth 10 minutes of your time.

Masonry fences (brick, stone, concrete block) over 4 feet tall require a permit in Howard regardless of location, and they require engineered drawings if they exceed 6 feet or sit in a frost-heave zone — which Howard's entire city limits are classified as. The 48-inch frost depth is governed by Wisconsin's adopted International Building Code (IBC 3109.4), and Howard's inspector will reject any footing less than 48 inches deep; the footing must also be below the frost line and on compacted soil or a gravel bed. This is not a 'maybe' — glacial till and clay pockets in Howard's soil profile create frost heave risk, and a shallow-footed wall will crack and shift within 2–3 winters. If you're planning a masonry fence over 4 feet, budget $400–$800 for an engineer stamp (a local civil engineer will provide footing details and a one-page calculation sheet), plus the permit fee ($100–$200 for masonry), plus a footing inspection at $50–$100. Many homeowners skip the engineering and lose the permit; the inspector then issues a violation, and you're tearing out 8 feet of fence in March when the frost is working against you.

Pool barriers are a separate category and trigger the strictest rules. Any pool (in-ground or above-ground, temporary or permanent) requires a barrier fence that is a minimum 4 feet tall, with no opening larger than 4 inches in any dimension, and with a self-closing, self-latching gate that latches at the full-open position. Per IBC 3109.2 and the Wisconsin Administrative Code, the gate must be tested by the inspector during the final walk — if the latch does not hold when the inspector pushes, the permit is not finalized. The pool barrier permit is separate from a standard fence permit and may require a plan showing the pool location, the barrier dimensions, gate hardware specs, and proof that the latch is listed (UL, ASTM, or equivalent). Howard's inspector is thorough on this; one homeowner installed a pool in 2022 with a nice vinyl fence and a magnetic latch, and the latch failed the final test (the magnet was not strong enough), so the gate had to be replaced at a cost of $300–$500 and a two-week delay to final approval. Budget for a UL-listed self-closing hinge like a pneumatic or spring-loaded model, which costs $150–$300.

Owner-builder fences are allowed in Howard for owner-occupied properties, so you can pull your own permit and do the work yourself. The application is straightforward: a simple sketch with property-line dimensions, the proposed fence location, height, and material. For non-masonry fences under 6 feet, many homeowners do the permit in person and get approved the same day (or within 24 hours). The inspector will typically do a final walk without a footing inspection for non-masonry (the post-hole depth is visual); for masonry or pool barriers, expect a footing inspection before the post holes are backfilled. Contractors are not required for this work, and you won't be dinged for being the owner-builder — Howard's Building Department sees hundreds of owner-built fences per year. That said, if the fence sits on a property line or within 6 feet of a utility easement (which covers most of the rear 20 feet of a lot in Howard), you should call the utility locating service (811) and get a marking before digging; one homeowner in East Howard hit a natural gas line and caused a $15,000 emergency repair and a four-day neighborhood shutdown.

Replacement fences are often exempt if they are a 'like-for-like' replacement in the same location, at the same height and material — this is stated in Howard's code but is interpreted narrowly. If your 5-year-old vinyl fence is sagging and you want to pull it and rebuild it 6 inches further back (because you found out the old fence was on the neighbor's side of the property line), that is no longer 'like-for-like' and you must file a new permit. Similarly, if you're replacing a chainlink with vinyl at the same height, it's a new permit because the material differs. The safest approach is to call the Building Department before you order materials; they will tell you yes or no in five minutes. The permit fee for a replacement fence, if required, is typically $50–$75 (flat for non-masonry), so it's not a budget-breaker, but the delay of 5–7 business days might be. Howard does not offer expedited review for fences.

Three Howard fence (wood/vinyl/metal/chain-link) scenarios

Scenario A
5-foot vinyl privacy fence, rear yard, 120 linear feet, not near utilities — typical Eastside subdivision lot
You live on a 60-by-120-foot lot in the Eastside subdivision, the back neighbor approved the fence, and you want to build a 5-foot vinyl privacy fence along the rear property line. This fence is under 6 feet, sits in the rear yard, and is not masonry or a pool barrier, so it is exempt from permitting under Howard's code. You do not need to file anything with the City of Howard Building Department. However, before you dig, call 811 (Wisconsin's utility-locate service) and request a mark-up of the lot; if there's a buried gas line, electric conduit, or water line running across the back corner, the utility companies will mark it with flags or paint, and you'll avoid a catastrophic hit. The post holes in Howard's frozen ground are tough — frost depth is 48 inches, so you're drilling down 4 feet in clay-heavy soil, which means a power auger or a jackhammer rental ($50–$100 per day) is almost mandatory unless you have a crew willing to swing a mattock for 6 hours. Vinyl posts come in 5-foot and 6-foot heights; you'll need the 5-foot, and you'll set the posts in a post-hole concrete base (Sakrete 50-lb bags, 3–4 per hole, $4 per bag). Total materials: vinyl panels ($15–$25 per linear foot), posts ($8–$15 each, roughly 1 post per 6 feet = 20 posts), concrete ($200–$300), brackets and fasteners ($100–$150). Labor (DIY or hired crew) is $800–$1,500. Total cost: $3,500–$4,500, zero permit fees, no inspections, and you can start as soon as you call 811 and the snow melts (or winter-install if you have a heated auger).
No permit required (≤6 ft, rear yard) | Utility locate (811) mandatory — free | 4-foot post depth (frost line) required | Vinyl panels $15–$25/ft | Total: $3,500–$4,500 | No permit fees
Scenario B
4-foot chainlink fence with gate, front corner-lot property, 80 linear feet, sight-line concern
You own a corner lot on the northwest corner of Oak and Elm, and you want to install a 4-foot chainlink fence with a gate to keep your dog in the front yard. Even though 4 feet is below the 6-foot threshold, any fence in a front yard requires a permit in Howard — this is the city's specific rule that catches most people off-guard. On a corner lot, the Building Department will also apply a sight-triangle rule: the fence must sit at least 10 feet from the corner property line to avoid blocking drivers' sight lines. Your property boundary is right at the corner; if you set the fence 2 feet from your property line (which feels legal), the inspector will reject it because the sight triangle extends 10 feet inward. You need to file a simple permit application with the City of Howard Building Department, either in person at City Hall or online via their portal (https://www.cityofhoward.wi.us/ — search for 'building permits'). The application requires a sketch showing your property-line dimensions (a recent survey is not mandatory; a measurement with a 100-foot tape and a sketch on graph paper is acceptable), the fence location with setback measurements, and material specs (chipback posts, 6-gauge galv. wire, 1.5-inch diamond, rail top and bottom). Permit fee: $75–$125 (flat rate for non-masonry). Processing time: 5–7 business days. Once approved, you can begin. The fence itself will cost $12–$18 per linear foot for materials (chainlink panels, galv. posts, fittings, concrete), plus labor (DIY or hired) $800–$1,200. For the gate, order a galv. gate frame kit from a supplier (Home Depot, Tractor Supply, or Lowe's), $150–$250, and install it with a gravity hinges and a latch. Gate latch does not have to be self-closing unless there's a pool on the property. Inspection: final walk-through only, no footing dig-up (chainlink posts are simple post-hole concrete). Timeline: 1 week to permit + 2–4 weeks to build = 3–5 weeks total. Total cost: permit $75–$125, materials $1,200–$1,600, labor $800–$1,200, total $2,075–$2,925.
Permit required (front yard) | Corner-lot sight-triangle setback: 10 feet from corner | Survey optional; tape sketch OK | Permit fee: $75–$125 | Chainlink $12–$18/ft | Gate kit: $150–$250 | Total: $2,075–$2,925
Scenario C
4-foot brick veneer fence, rear yard, 60 linear feet, no pool, above-ground structure
You want a decorative 4-foot brick fence in your rear yard to frame the patio area. Masonry fences over 4 feet tall require a permit in Howard's code, but a 4-foot brick fence sits right at the threshold and is sometimes interpreted as 'at' rather than 'over,' which creates confusion. Call the Building Department before you order materials; they will clarify whether a 4-foot brick fence in your specific situation requires a permit. Assume it does, because footing depth is the real issue. Howard's frost depth is 48 inches, and brick veneer on a concrete block backing requires a concrete footing that goes 48 inches down and sits on compacted soil or a gravel drainage base. This is not optional; the inspector will dig a hole and measure. For a 60-foot run of 4-foot brick, you're looking at a footing trench 60 feet long, 2 feet wide, and 4 feet deep — that's 480 cubic feet of excavation, roughly 18 cubic yards, which costs $400–$600 to have excavated and graded. Then the concrete footing (6 inches thick in the trench, 12 inches wide): 60 feet × 1 foot × 0.5 feet = 30 linear feet of concrete, roughly 5.5 cubic yards, $275–$400 in concrete and finishing. Then block and brick: 4-foot wall, 60 feet = 240 square feet, at roughly $35–$50 per square foot installed (including mortar, weeps, caps, and labor), is $8,400–$12,000. Total: excavation $400–$600, concrete footing $275–$400, masonry $8,400–$12,000, total $9,075–$13,000. You will need a permit ($150–$200) and a footing inspection before backfilling. Timeline: 2–3 weeks to permit + 4–6 weeks to build = 6–9 weeks. If you're on a budget, consider a vinyl or composite fence with concrete post footings (much simpler and cheaper, $4,000–$6,000 total), or ask the Building Department whether a dry-stack stone veneer might qualify as 'non-masonry' — some jurisdictions do, some don't. Howard's code is clear: brick and block are masonry; check locally.
Permit required (masonry ≥4 ft) | 48-inch frost depth mandatory | Footing inspection required | Excavation: $400–$600 | Concrete footing: $275–$400 | Masonry install: $8,400–$12,000 | Permit fee: $150–$200 | Total: $9,075–$13,000

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Frost depth, soil heave, and why Howard's 48-inch footing requirement isn't optional

Howard sits in USDA Hardiness Zone 6A and was glaciated; the soil profile is dominated by glacial till, clay pockets, and sandy deposits from the terminal moraine. Frost depth — the winter depth that the ground freezes — is 48 inches in Howard's jurisdiction, per the Wisconsin Building Code adoption of the IBC frost-line table. When water in soil freezes, it expands; if a fence post footing sits above the frost line, the frozen ground will heave (push upward) beneath it, lifting the post 1–3 inches each winter and settling it 1–2 inches each spring. After 5 winters, the post is tilted, cracked at the base, and the fence is visibly sagging. Masonry (brick, block, stone) is even worse: frost heave cracks mortar joints and causes the entire wall section to shift. A fence built on a 24-inch footing in Howard will fail within 3 years.

The Building Department's requirement for a 48-inch footing is not bureaucratic pedantry; it's the frost line, and there is no alternative. If you want to build a masonry fence, you must either dig the footing 48 inches deep (or go to solid bedrock or competent sand, whichever is shallower), or you must use a licensed engineer to justify a shallow footing with a frost-protected shallow foundation (FPSF) design — which involves insulation and drainage details that cost more than digging deep. Most homeowners dig deep. Vinyl and wood posts sit above ground and the footing concrete must also go 48 inches; the post itself sits in the concrete in a post-hole concrete base (Sakrete), and the concrete bond prevents the post from heaving with the soil. Chainlink posts are the most forgiving: the concrete footings are simple 12-inch-diameter auger holes filled with concrete, 48 inches deep, and the posts are driven or set afterward. If you're uncertain about soil conditions on your property (e.g., you know there's bedrock 3 feet down), ask the Building Department; they may allow a shallower footing with a soils engineer's letter.

Corner-lot sight-triangle rules and why they matter more in Howard than in rural areas

Howard is an incorporated city (population ~5,000–~8,000) with a grid of residential blocks, many corner lots, and a fairly high traffic volume at intersections. The Building Department enforces a sight-triangle rule to prevent accidents: any fence in a front yard on a corner lot must maintain a clear sight line to oncoming traffic in both directions. The rule is simple on paper: measure a 10-foot setback (sometimes 15 feet on a State Highway; check the specific code) from the corner property line, and the fence must sit inside that distance (closer to your house). In practice, this catches people because your property corner and the sight-triangle corner are the same point; if you set your fence 2 feet from the property line and the setback is 10 feet, the fence is too close and the inspector will reject it.

Corner lots in Howard often have alleys or are on subdivisions with unusual lot shapes; always request a current survey or at minimum a Property Appraiser's sketch from the City of Howard; it should show lot corners, utility easements, and sight-triangle zones. The permit application requires a sketch with the fence location and setbacks — this is your opportunity to measure and verify that you're in compliance before you dig. If the fence sits in a residential low-speed zone (under 25 mph), the setback is often 10 feet; on a State Highway, it might be 15–25 feet. Call the Building Department with your street address and they will tell you the exact setback for your corner lot in 2 minutes. Violating the sight-triangle rule means removal — it is not a code variance that the Planning & Zoning Board will usually grant, because the rule exists to prevent traffic accidents, not to regulate aesthetics.

City of Howard Building Department
Howard City Hall, Howard, Wisconsin (check online for exact street address)
Phone: Contact City of Howard main number and ask for Building Department; typical number format — confirm locally | https://www.cityofhoward.wi.us/ (search 'building permit' or 'online permits' once on site)
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM–5:00 PM (verify holiday closures)

Common questions

Do I need a permit if I'm replacing an old fence with the same fence in the same location?

Not necessarily. A true 'like-for-like' replacement — same material, same height, same location — is often exempt from permitting. However, if the old fence was undersized (e.g., a 4-foot fence you want to rebuild at 5 feet), or if you're moving it back a few feet, or if the new material is different (e.g., chainlink to vinyl), you need a new permit. Call the Building Department with your address and a photo of the existing fence; they will advise in one call.

Can I build a fence on the property line, or does it have to be inside my property?

Fences can sit on the property line if the neighbor agrees, but disputes are common and expensive. Best practice: set the fence 6–12 inches inside your property so there is no ambiguity and the neighbor cannot claim encroachment. If the neighbor signed a Property Line Agreement and recorded it with the county, you're safe; otherwise, get a survey ($300–$600) or at least a written agreement from the neighbor before you build. Howard's Building Department does not enforce property-line disputes (that is a civil matter), but they do enforce fences that sit on recorded easements or utility corridors, so check for easements on your Deed or the Property Appraiser's plat.

What if I hire a contractor instead of building the fence myself?

The permit is the same either way — you or the contractor will pull it. If the contractor is licensed, they can pull it under their license; if you're the property owner and doing the work yourself, you pull it under your name (owner-builder). Either way, the permit fee, setbacks, and footing depths are the same. Some contractors will include the permit fee in their quote; ask upfront.

Is HOA approval the same as a city permit?

No. The city permit approves the fence under municipal code; the HOA approval is a separate covenant agreement with your neighborhood. Howard does not enforce HOA rules — that is the HOA's job. If your subdivision has an HOA, you must obtain HOA approval BEFORE you file for a city permit, because if the HOA rejects the fence (wrong color, wrong height, wrong location), the city permit is wasted. Get HOA approval in writing, then file the city permit. Many homeowners skip the HOA step and are told to remove the fence after it is built, which is expensive and frustrating.

How deep do I have to dig post holes for a regular (non-masonry) fence in Howard?

Post holes must be at least 48 inches deep (to the frost line) or to solid rock, whichever is shallower. In most of Howard's residential areas, you're digging a full 4 feet. Pour concrete (Sakrete or equivalent) in the hole, around the post; do not backfill with soil alone, because soil does not prevent frost heave. A typical post hole is 12–14 inches in diameter, with 4–6 inches of concrete at the bottom and concrete around the post to the grade line.

What is the fence height limit in Howard, and does it vary by yard location?

Front yards: typically 3–4 feet for open fences (chainlink, pickets), 4–6 feet for solid privacy fences; check with the Building Department for your specific zone. Side yards: 6 feet is the common limit. Rear yards: 6 feet is typical. Masonry over 4 feet requires a permit anywhere on the property. Corner lots may have stricter limits on the front facade side to protect sight lines. Call the Building Department with your address to confirm the height limit for your specific property.

If I build a fence without a permit and the city finds out, what happens?

A neighbor complaint or a routine code-enforcement patrol will trigger an inspection. The inspector will issue a Notice of Violation and typically give you 7–14 days to apply for a permit retroactively. If you comply and pay a late permit fee (often double the original fee), the fence may be allowed to stay if it meets code. If the fence violates setback or height rules, you will be ordered to remove or modify it. If you ignore the notice, the city can place a lien on your property or issue a citation (fine). Do not ignore it.

Are there any easements I should know about before I dig?

Yes. Utility easements typically run across the rear 15–20 feet of a lot, reserved for water, sewer, electric, gas, and sometimes telecommunications. These are marked on your Deed and on the Property Appraiser's plat. A fence can sit in a utility easement if there is 10 feet of clear access from the utility line to the rear property line; ask the Building Department if you are unsure. Call 811 before you dig, and the utility companies will mark their lines with flags or paint. Ignore this step and you may hit a natural gas line (emergency repair costs $10,000+).

How long does it take to get a fence permit in Howard?

Permit-exempt fences (under 6 feet, rear/side yard, non-masonry): zero wait time; no permit needed. Permitted fences (front yard, over 6 feet, masonry): typically 5–7 business days for approval, sometimes same-day if you apply in person and it is simple. Masonry over 4 feet with footing inspection: add 2–3 weeks for the footing dig and inspection before you can finish the wall. Howard does not offer expedited permits for fences. Plan on 1–2 weeks minimum from application to approval, plus 2–8 weeks for construction, depending on scope and weather.

Can I install a fence in winter, or should I wait until spring?

Footing depth is 48 inches in Howard; winter digging in frozen ground requires a power auger or jackhammer, which is slow and costly. Concrete curing is also slower in cold weather (below 50°F), and backfilling frozen soil can be difficult. Spring and fall are ideal. Winter installation is possible if you have the equipment and patience, but summer and early fall are easiest. The Building Department will issue a permit year-round, so the choice is yours.

Disclaimer: This guide is based on research conducted in May 2026 using publicly available sources. Always verify current fence (wood/vinyl/metal/chain-link) permit requirements with the City of Howard Building Department before starting your project.

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