What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)
- Stop-work order and $250–$500 fine from Murray Building Enforcement, plus required removal or costly permit-after-the-fact ($100–$200 double fee).
- HOA violation notice: even with city approval, unpermitted fences violate most Murray subdivision CC&Rs and trigger $50–$150 monthly fines until removed.
- Title disclosure hit: at resale, unpermitted structures must be disclosed on the Utah Property Disclosure Statement, reducing buyer confidence and closing price by $5,000–$15,000.
- Lender denial on refinance: banks will not refinance or hold mortgages on properties with recorded code violations; you'll be forced to remove the fence before closing.
Murray fence permits — the key details
The fundamental rule in Murray is height-and-location based. Per the Murray City Code (Title 17), fences 6 feet or taller require a permit; fences 6 feet or shorter in rear or side yards are exempt from permitting (provided they don't violate setback or HOA rules). However, any fence in a front yard — regardless of height — requires a permit because of corner-lot sight-line requirements (typically 25-30 feet from the property corner, measured along both street frontages). This is unique to corner lots in Utah municipalities; interior-lot houses rarely face this scrutiny. The IRC defines 'front yard' as the area between the front property line and the front building line; if your lot is a corner lot and your fence faces either street, assume you need a permit. Pool barriers are regulated separately under IRC AG105 and require a permit at any height. The gate must be self-closing and self-latching, and inspections are mandatory.
Material choice affects permitting slightly. Wood, vinyl, and metal fences follow the same 6-foot rule. Chain-link fences are typically treated the same way, though some inspectors note that chain-link under 5 feet blends into the 'accessory fence' exemption more easily. Masonry (brick, stone, stucco block) over 4 feet always requires a permit because it triggers structural and footing requirements. On the Wasatch Front, where soil is predominantly Lake Bonneville clay (expansive and variable), footing depth is critical — the IRC R403.1 frost-line requirements mean you must go 30-48 inches deep (local frost depth), and on a slope or near seismic zones (Murray is near the Wasatch Fault), the building department may demand engineering certification. This is more costly and time-consuming than a wood fence and is why masonry often stalls permits by 2-3 weeks.
Setback rules are strict in Murray and frequently trip up applicants. The city code typically requires fences to be set back 3-5 feet from property lines in rear yards and 0-2 feet in side yards (check your specific neighborhood — some older subdivisions have easements). Front-yard fences must clear sight triangles: if you're on a corner, you cannot obstruct the driver's sight line to oncoming traffic. Murray enforces this aggressively because of high-speed arterial intersections. Replacement fences (like-for-like replacement of an existing fence) are often exempt from permitting if they remain in the same footprint and do not exceed the original height. However, you must have proof (survey, prior permits, or photos) that the original fence was compliant; Murray's building department will ask for documentation before granting the exemption.
Pool barriers have their own rulebook. Any fence, wall, or barrier that encloses a swimming pool (above-ground or in-ground) requires a permit and must comply with IRC AG105 (Encroachments Into Public Right-of-Way and Swimming Pools). The barrier must be at least 4 feet high (measured on the pool side), have no openings larger than 4 inches, and the gate must be self-closing/self-latching with a 3-6 inch dead-latch (the gate must close automatically and lock without manual action). Pool inspections typically happen after frame-and-latch installation, before final sign-off. If your pool is in a common area (HOA-owned or community pool), the HOA and the city both have jurisdiction — you'll need written approval from both.
HOA approval is not the same as a city permit. Most Murray subdivisions have CC&Rs that require architectural approval before fence installation. This is a separate process: you submit plans to your HOA first, they approve or deny, then you pull the city permit. The city will not issue a permit for a fence that violates recorded deed restrictions. Many homeowners pull the city permit first (assuming they can) and then face a cease-and-desist letter from the HOA — this costs $5,000–$10,000 in legal fees to resolve. Check your CC&Rs and contact your HOA before meeting with the building department. The city does not enforce HOA restrictions, but the HOA can sue you, and the city will ultimately side with the recorded restrictions in a dispute.
Three Murray fence (wood/vinyl/metal/chain-link) scenarios
Murray's frost depth and clay-soil footing requirements
Murray sits in the Wasatch Valley, built on Lake Bonneville clay deposits. The soil is expansive (shrinks and swells with moisture) and the frost line is 30-48 inches depending on elevation. The IRC R403.1 requires all footings to be set below the local frost line to prevent frost heave (the upward movement of soil as water freezes, which lifts and cracks fence posts, walls, and structures). For wood fences, this typically means digging post holes 36-42 inches deep in the Murray area; for masonry or walls, footings must go at least as deep. Many homeowners dig 18-24 inches and assume they're fine, then watch their fence lean or heave within 2-3 years. The building department will not sign off on a footing inspection for a masonry wall if the depth is less than the local frost depth. For non-permitted (exempt) fences, the city doesn't inspect, but improper depth is the #1 reason fences fail in Utah. If you're installing a 5-foot vinyl fence that doesn't require a permit, invest the extra $500–$800 in proper post holes — it will last 20+ years instead of 8-10.
Expansive clay adds another layer. Unlike sandy or rocky soils, clay absorbs water and swells, pushing against fence posts and walls. This is especially problematic on slopes or near gutters and sprinkler lines where soil moisture is variable. If your fence is near a driveway, patio, or slope, the building department may require a geotechnical report ($1,500–$3,000) or engineer sign-off for masonry walls. For wood or vinyl, the standard fix is to set posts in concrete (not just dirt) and ensure drainage away from the posts. Again, exempt fences don't require this, but it's smart practice.
Seismic considerations are emerging. The Wasatch Fault runs north-south through the Salt Lake Valley; Murray is in a moderate seismic zone. The 2018 and later editions of the Utah Building Code have stricter masonry-wall bracing and detailing for high-seismic zones. If you're installing a tall masonry wall, the building department may require bracing, engineering, or reinforcement details. Wood and vinyl fences are generally exempt from seismic review. This is another reason masonry walls in Murray are more expensive and time-consuming than in flat, non-seismic areas.
Corner-lot sight-line rules and variance strategy
Murray enforces Utah Traffic Code safety rules strictly on corner lots. The sight triangle is typically defined as a triangle from the property corner extending 25-30 feet along both street frontages (measured along the property lines). Within this triangle, no fence, wall, or vegetation over 3.5 feet (measured from the street grade) can obstruct a driver's sight line. This is a critical safety rule: if a child runs into the street and a driver can't see around your fence, you and the city are both liable. The building department will flag any corner-lot fence application and ask you to show the sight triangle on your site plan. If your proposed fence falls within the triangle and exceeds 3.5 feet, you must either (1) relocate it outside the triangle, (2) reduce the height below 3.5 feet, or (3) request a variance.
A variance is a formal request to deviate from the zoning code. In Murray, you file a variance application with the Planning & Zoning Division (often part of the same building department), pay a $250–$400 fee, and wait for a hearing (typically 4-8 weeks). You must demonstrate hardship or unique circumstances — 'I want privacy' is not enough. Examples that work: 'The lot is unusually small and the only reasonable location for a fence is within the sight triangle' or 'existing vegetation blocks sight to the same degree as the proposed fence.' The Planning Commission votes; if they approve, the permit can be issued. If denied, you must comply with the 3.5-foot limit or relocate. Many homeowners give up and build a 4-foot fence in the side yard instead. This is the smart move: avoid the variance entirely by siting the fence outside the sight triangle.
Site-plan submission is critical. You must provide a measured drawing (survey-grade or tape-measured) showing property lines, existing structures, the proposed fence location with dimensions, height, and material. Many Murray applications are rejected on the first pass because the fence location is shown schematically but without dimensions relative to the property corner. The building department needs to know: 'The fence starts 25 feet from the corner and runs 60 feet along the rear property line, height 6 feet.' Fuzzy drawings cost you 2-3 weeks in resubmission delays. Pay for a surveyor ($150–$300) to mark the property corners and stake the fence line — it's cheaper than reworking a rejected application.
Murray City Hall, 5025 South State Street, Murray, UT 84107
Phone: (801) 270-2700 (main); ask for Building Department | https://www.murraycity.org (search 'permits' for online portal; some applications available online, phone for confirmation of status)
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM (closed major holidays; verify before visiting)
Common questions
Do I need a permit to replace my existing fence with the same height and material?
Probably not — if the original fence was compliant and you're replacing it in the same location and height, it's typically exempt. However, you need proof. Bring a photo of the old fence or a prior permit to the building department. If the original fence was unpermitted or non-compliant (e.g., on a corner lot), the replacement must also comply with current code, which means a permit. Don't assume — call ahead or email the building department with a photo and property address.
My HOA says no fence at all. Can the city permit it anyway?
No. The city will not issue a permit if the fence violates recorded deed restrictions (your HOA CC&Rs). You must obtain written approval from your HOA first. If the HOA denies it, your only option is to appeal within the HOA (usually to the board) or enforce a change to the CC&Rs (very difficult and expensive). The city does not override HOA rules.
How deep do I need to dig fence post holes in Murray?
At least 36-42 inches, accounting for the 30-48 inch frost line. Posts should be set in concrete for stability in expansive clay soil. The building department will inspect footing depth for permitted masonry walls; for exempt wood/vinyl fences, there's no inspection, but improper depth causes frost heave and failure within 8-10 years. Spend the extra money on deep, concrete-set posts — it's the best investment you can make.
I'm on a corner lot. Do I really need a variance if my fence is 4 feet?
Yes, if the fence falls within the sight triangle (typically 25-30 feet from the corner). Even a 4-foot fence can obstruct a driver's sight line depending on grade and angle. The building department will require a sight-line analysis or variance application. The smart move is to locate the fence outside the sight triangle entirely (further back along the side or rear property line) and avoid the variance hassle. Call the city with your address and lot layout — they can tell you if a variance is likely.
What is the permit fee for a fence in Murray?
Typically $50–$200 for residential fences, depending on linear footage and complexity. Exempt fences (under 6 feet, rear yard) cost nothing. A variance (for corner lots) adds $250–$400. Masonry walls over 4 feet may trigger an additional structural review fee ($75–$150). Call the building department for an exact quote based on your project specifics.
Can I pull a permit myself, or do I need a contractor?
You can pull it yourself if you own the property and it's your primary residence (owner-builder rule). You'll submit the application, pay the fee, and schedule inspections. You don't have to hire a licensed contractor to install the fence — you can do it yourself. However, you must pass the inspections (footing depth, gate latch compliance for pools, etc.). If you hire a contractor, they often handle the permit paperwork; many contractors include the permit fee in their quote.
How long does it take to get a fence permit in Murray?
Exempt fences: none (no permit). Over-the-counter permits (simple, under 6 feet, not masonry): 1 day. Standard permits (over 6 feet, side yard): 1-2 weeks plan review. Corner-lot variances: 4-8 weeks. Masonry walls with engineering: 3-6 weeks. Pool barriers: 2-4 weeks. After permit issuance, inspections typically happen within 3-5 days of your request. Budget 4-8 weeks for a corner-lot or masonry project to be safe.
Do I need to notify my neighbors before building a fence?
Not legally — the city doesn't require neighbor notification for residential fences. However, it's smart to tell your neighbors, especially if the fence affects views or shadows. If the fence is on a disputed property line, your neighbor might hire a surveyor to verify the boundary, which costs $300–$600 — you could end up paying this if the fence encroaches. Get a survey done ($100–$300) and show neighbors the marked line before digging. It prevents disputes and expensive relocations.
What if my fence violates an easement or utility corridor?
Utility companies (power, gas, water, sewer) have easement rights and can demand removal if the fence blocks access or maintenance. Even if the city issues a permit, an easement violation is enforceable by the utility company and can cost $5,000–$15,000 in removal and legal fees. Before permitting, contact the city to identify easements on your property (usually free), or order a title report from your title company (includes easements). Call utility companies to ask if a fence in your proposed location is acceptable.
Is a pool barrier fence the same as a regular fence?
No. A pool barrier (any fence, wall, or structure that encloses a pool) must meet IRC AG105 standards: at least 4 feet high on the pool side, no openings larger than 4 inches, and a self-closing/self-latching gate that closes automatically and locks without manual action. A standard privacy fence does not meet these requirements. If your pool barrier is a fence, it must also have the proper latch hardware and pass an inspection. If you have a pool, the barrier is mandatory and always requires a permit.
More permit guides
National guides for the most-asked homeowner permit projects. Each goes deep on code thresholds, common rejections, fees, and timeline.
Roof Replacement
Layer count, deck inspection, ice dam protection, hurricane straps.
Deck
Attached vs freestanding, footings, frost depth, ledger, height/area thresholds.
Kitchen Remodel
Plumbing, electrical, gas line, ventilation, structural changes.
Solar Panels
Structural review, electrical interconnection, fire setbacks, AHJ approval.
Fence
Height/material limits, sight triangles, pool barriers, setbacks.
HVAC
Equipment changeouts, ductwork, combustion air, ventilation, IMC sections.
Bathroom Remodel
Plumbing rough-in, ventilation, electrical (GFCI/AFCI), waterproofing.
Electrical Work
Subpermits, NEC sections, panel upgrades, GFCI/AFCI, who can pull.
Basement Finishing
Egress, ceiling height, electrical, moisture barriers, occupancy rules.
Room Addition
Foundation, footings, framing, electrical/plumbing extensions, structural.
Accessory Dwelling Units (ADU)
When permits are required, code thresholds, JADU vs ADU, electrical/plumbing/parking rules.
New Windows
Egress, header sizing, structural cuts, fire-rating, energy code.
Heat Pump
Electrical capacity, refrigerant handling, condensate, IECC compliance.
Hurricane Retrofit
Roof straps, garage door bracing, opening protection, FL OIR product approval.
Pool
Barriers, alarms, electrical bonding, plumbing, separation distances.
Fireplace & Wood Stove
Hearth, clearances, chimney, gas line work, NFPA 211.
Sump Pump
Discharge location, electrical, backup options, plumbing tie-in.
Mini-Split
Refrigerant lines, condensate, electrical disconnect, line set sleeve.