What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)
- Stop-work order issued by city; fines of $250–$500 per day if work continues; removal of non-compliant fence at your cost (typically $2,000–$8,000 for teardown and disposal).
- Insurance denial: homeowner claims for fence damage or liability incident on unpermitted structure can be rejected outright by your carrier, leaving you personally liable.
- Title disclosure hit: unpermitted fence must be disclosed on the Residential Property Condition Disclosure (Utah Code 57-3-306); buyers will negotiate down or walk, costing 3-5% of sale price in renegotiation.
- Refinance/HELOC blocked: lenders run title search and may refuse to close until unpermitted structure is removed or brought into compliance, costing 1-2 months and $500–$1,500 in re-inspection fees.
Riverton fence permits — the key details
Riverton's primary fence rule is straightforward: wood, vinyl, and chain-link fences under 6 feet tall in rear or side yards are permit-exempt. This exemption applies to owner-occupied residential properties only and assumes the fence is not a pool barrier, not masonry, and not located in a front yard or corner-lot sight triangle. However, the Riverton Building Department's code (administered under Utah Code Title 15A and adopted amendments to the IBC) requires that even exempt fences comply with height, setback, and material standards. The city's zoning ordinance sets rear-yard fence height at 6 feet maximum, side-yard at 6 feet, and front-yard at 4 feet — or 3 feet on a corner lot within the sight-line triangle (typically 15-20 feet from the corner). Any fence exceeding these heights by even 6 inches technically requires a variance and cannot be built as-of-right.
Riverton's frost depth of 30-48 inches, driven by Wasatch-region winter freezing and Bonneville Lake sediment soils, creates a hidden compliance layer. IRC R302.2 and R402.2 require footings to extend below the frost line, and the city's Building Department enforces this strictly on masonry fences over 4 feet (which trigger mandatory footing inspection). Wood post fences under 6 feet are often assumed to meet this if posts are pressure-treated (UC4B minimum, per AWPA) and set 24-30 inches deep; however, expansive clay in Riverton's soils can heave posts upward after 2-3 winters if the footer is inadequate. The city's seismic guidelines (Wasatch Fault proximity) don't change fence code per se, but inspectors will flag posts that show heave or settlement as non-compliant. If your fence is within a HOA, the HOA's design guidelines may require deeper footers or specific materials — and this is NOT the city's responsibility, but it is your problem if the HOA can later force removal.
Front-yard fences and corner-lot sight-line fences always require a permit, regardless of height or material. Riverton's zoning code defines a corner lot as a lot with two street frontages, and the sight-line triangle extends from the corner intersection point 15 feet along each property line. Any fence or wall structure (including masonry, lattice, or dense plantings that obstruct sight lines) within this triangle must be 3 feet or lower and requires a conditional-use permit or variance if taller. A common mistake is building a 4-foot fence on a corner lot at the property line, thinking 4 feet is under the 6-foot cap; it will be flagged as non-compliant and you'll be ordered to remove or reduce it. The permit application must include a site plan showing the lot corners, street lines, property-line dimensions, proposed fence location (distance from property line, in feet), height, and materials. Riverton's Building Department will not accept a handwritten sketch; the city prefers a scaled drawing or a survey-based document.
Pool barriers are subject to IBC 3109 and UL 1426 standards, and ALL pool barriers require a permit regardless of height or whether you have an exemption for other fences. A pool barrier is defined as any fence, wall, or structure that prevents uncontrolled access to a swimming pool (inground or above-ground over 24 inches deep). The fence must have a self-closing, self-latching gate that closes and latches automatically, with the latch released by pushing or pulling a button or knob (not a latch that requires lifting or sliding). The gate must latch when pushed from either side and must remain closed and latched if a child exerts pressure. This is inspected on-site and is non-negotiable; a gate that does not self-latch will fail inspection and you cannot receive a Certificate of Occupancy or use the pool until corrected. If you have a pool and are building a perimeter fence that doubles as the pool barrier, the entire fence must meet pool-barrier standards — you cannot have one section that is exempt and another that is not.
Riverton permits are filed at the City of Riverton Building Department (part of the Community Development Department). The city has a online permit portal, but site-plan submission typically requires an in-person visit or an emailed PDF scan with measured dimensions. Permit fees for residential fences are flat-rate: $75–$150 depending on whether the fence is non-masonry (no inspection required beyond visual) or masonry or pool barrier (footing inspection required). Timeline is 1-3 weeks for permit issuance once the site plan is submitted and deemed complete; same-day permit issuance is available only if you can prove the fence is replacement-in-kind (same height, material, and location as the previous fence) and the original fence was permitted. Owner-builder pull is allowed on owner-occupied properties; contractor-pulled permits require a business license and a certificate of insurance.
Three Riverton fence (wood/vinyl/metal/chain-link) scenarios
Riverton's frost depth and expansive soils: why your fence footers matter more than the code says
Riverton sits in the Wasatch Front 5B-6B climate zone, with winter ground freezing extending 30-48 inches below surface depending on elevation and snow cover. The Utah Division of Water Resources and the National Weather Service map 36-48 inches as the design frost depth for Riverton and surrounding Salt Lake County. What makes this relevant to fences is that the IRC R302.2 minimum-footing depth is often insufficient for post-frame structures in clay soils. Riverton's soils are primarily Bonneville Lake sediments — ancient lakebed deposits with high silt and clay content, prone to expansion when wet and contraction when dry. A wood post set 24 inches deep in spring (when soils are saturated after snowmelt) may experience 2-3 inches of heave by mid-winter as the ground freezes from the surface down.
The city's Building Department does not explicitly require deeper footings in the code for residential fences (because the state IRC does not mandate it), but inspectors will cite 'frost heave' or 'settling' as grounds for rejection if a fence tilts or shifts after construction. The practical solution: set wood posts to 30-36 inches minimum in Riverton, even for exempt fences. Use pressure-treated posts (UC4B minimum, rated for ground contact), pour concrete to frost depth around the post, and backfill with gravel (not clay) to allow drainage. Vinyl posts are lighter and less prone to damage from heave, but the footers still need to go deep. For masonry walls (which DO trigger inspection), the city requires a foundation detail showing footing depth of 48 inches or below in the permit application; this is non-negotiable and a common reason for plan-review rejection.
Expansive clay is the secondary threat. If your post footer is shallow (18-24 inches) and sits in clay, winter freezing creates an upward pressure that can lift the post 1-2 inches per year. Over 5 years, your fence will visibly shift, and the city may issue a violation if it tilts more than 1 inch out of plumb. Slope management is also critical: if water pools at the base of your fence during snowmelt, the clay becomes supersaturated and expands. Grade your fence line slightly (1-2% slope) away from the fence to shed water. If you are in a HOA with poor drainage or in a low-lying Riverton parcel prone to spring flooding, consider a French drain behind the fence or a swale to direct water away.
One more detail: Riverton is within 8-10 miles of the Wasatch Fault. While the city's fault-line seismic code does not specifically regulate fences (fences are not classified as critical structures), the 2009 Utah Seismic Safety Commission report recommends that structural elements in fault-zone counties be braced for lateral loading. For masonry fences, this translates to reinforced block, rebar, and deep footers — all of which the inspector will look for. Wood fences are inherently flexible and not a seismic concern.
HOA vs. city permits: why you need both (and HOA approval first)
Riverton has dozens of residential subdivisions and planned communities, many with mandatory HOAs and Design Review Committees (DRC). The HOA rules and design guidelines are NOT enforced by the city; they are a private covenant between you and the HOA. The city's permit is a separate, public approval. You need BOTH. The most common mistake is pulling a city permit for a fence that the HOA then rejects or forces you to remove after construction. The city will not back you up. Conversely, if the HOA approves your fence but it violates the city code (e.g., it exceeds height limits or sight-line setbacks), the city can issue a stop-work order, and the HOA approval means nothing.
Riverton's Building Department will not review HOA compliance; their job is to ensure the fence meets city zoning, height, setback, and construction-safety standards only. Before you file with the city, contact your HOA (or the DRC if the HOA has delegated fence approvals to a committee) and submit an architectural request. HOAs typically require a color sample, materials specification, and a site plan showing the fence location relative to your house and neighboring properties. Turnaround is usually 2-4 weeks. Once you have HOA approval in writing, then pull the city permit. If the HOA requires a variance (e.g., a fence color not on the approved list), request it simultaneously with your DRC submission; this can add 1-2 weeks to the approval timeline.
One additional caveat: if your property sits within a recorded utility easement (common for gas, electric, or water lines running along property lines), you must also obtain written clearance from the utility company before building. The utility may require a setback (typically 3-5 feet) from the easement centerline, or it may prohibit fencing altogether if the easement is for above-ground infrastructure (like poles). Riverton's Building Department will request utility clearance as part of the permit review if the site plan shows the fence near an easement. Delaying this until after the permit is approved wastes time; get utility approval before submitting to the city.
12830 South Redwood Road, Riverton, UT 84065
Phone: (801) 254-2200 | https://www.rivertoncity.com/departments/community-development/building-services (check for online portal or submit site plans by email or in-person)
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM–5:00 PM (closed holidays)
Common questions
Do I need a permit for a replacement fence that is the same height and material as the old one?
Replacement-in-kind fences may be exempt if you can prove the original fence was legal (i.e., it was permitted or it was built before current code). Riverton requires documentation: the original permit number, a survey showing the old fence location, or photographs and a notarized statement from a neighbor confirming the old fence location and height. If you cannot prove the old fence was legal, you must treat the new fence as a new project and apply for a permit if it triggers current code (e.g., if it is 6 feet or taller, or in a front yard). Most homeowners play it safe and pull a permit; the fee ($75–$150) is cheap insurance.
What is the difference between a side-yard and a rear-yard fence in Riverton? Does it matter for the permit?
A side-yard fence runs along one of the left or right property lines (the sides of the house when viewed from the street). A rear-yard fence runs along the back property line, opposite the street frontage. Riverton allows 6-foot fences in both side and rear yards as-of-right and permit-exempt. The distinction matters only on corner lots or if the side-yard fence is visible from the street; in that case, the city may treat it as a front-yard fence and apply the 4-foot (or 3-foot in sight triangle) limit. When in doubt, submit a site plan showing the lot, house, and fence location; the city will clarify.
I have a chain-link fence under 6 feet in my rear yard. Do I need a permit?
No. Chain-link fences under 6 feet in side or rear yards are permit-exempt in Riverton, provided the property is owner-occupied residential and the fence is not a pool barrier. Chain-link is treated the same as wood or vinyl. If the fence is 6 feet or taller, or in a front yard, or serves as a pool barrier, you need a permit.
How deep should I set my fence posts in Riverton? The code says 24 inches, but I have heard 30-36 inches is better.
Riverton's frost depth is 30-48 inches depending on location and elevation. The IRC minimum is typically 24 inches, but expansive clay soils in the Bonneville Lake sediment layer can heave posts in shallower footers. For peace of mind and code compliance (and to avoid future city violations), set posts 30-36 inches deep minimum. If you are building a masonry wall or pool barrier, the city will require 48 inches or deeper; there is no flexibility here. Use concrete for the footer and avoid backfilling with clay; use gravel or sand to promote drainage.
My property is in a historic preservation district (1950s-era Riverton neighborhood). Are there additional fence restrictions?
Riverton does have a historic preservation overlay zone covering portions of the original town (roughly south of 12400 South and west of Redwood Road). Within the historic district, the Architectural Design Review Committee (separate from standard Design Review) may impose stricter material requirements (e.g., wood only, no vinyl; specific picket styles and spacing). Check with the city's Historic Preservation Coordinator (part of Community Development) to see if your property is in the overlay. If it is, you must obtain Design Review approval before pulling the city permit, and the timeline can extend to 3-4 weeks.
Can a contractor pull a fence permit on my behalf, or must I pull it myself?
Either is allowed. If you pull it yourself (homeowner-builder), you are the permit holder and responsible for code compliance and inspections. If a contractor pulls it, they must have a valid Utah Division of Occupational & Professional Licensing (DOPL) contractor license and provide proof of workers' compensation insurance. Riverton's Building Department requires a signed contract between you and the contractor and a copy of the contractor's license and insurance. Many homeowners prefer to pull the permit themselves because it is cheaper (no markup on the permit fee) and simpler.
What is a self-closing, self-latching gate, and why do pool barriers need one?
A self-closing gate uses a spring or pneumatic hinge to close the gate automatically after it is opened. A self-latching gate has a mechanical latch (typically a push-button or pull-knob mechanism) that engages automatically when the gate closes, without requiring the person to manually push or turn a separate latch handle. The combination is required for pool barriers because young children can open a regular gate and latch, then forget to latch it, creating an unsupervised access point to the pool. A self-closing, self-latching gate closes and locks itself, eliminating that gap. Inspectors will test the gate by opening it, releasing it, and confirming it closes and latches without manual intervention. Brand-name examples include LiftMaster pool gate operators and manual self-closing hinges like those made by Tele-Saf. Expect to pay $300–$800 for a quality gate and hardware.
I live in a cul-de-sac or interior lot with no front-yard street exposure. Does the front-yard fence rule still apply?
The front yard is defined as the area between the house and the primary street frontage, or the area between the house and the lot line if the lot is interior and has no street frontage. If you live on an interior lot (cul-de-sac or dead-end street where the house sits 100+ feet from the street), you may not have a formal 'front yard' in code terms. However, Riverton's zoning ordinance defines front, side, and rear yards based on lot orientation and building position. The safest approach is to submit a site plan to the city showing your lot, house, and fence location, and ask the planner to confirm which yard category applies. Some interior lots are zoned with a 'rear' orientation, meaning the street-facing side is actually treated as the rear yard for fence purposes. This is unusual but possible.
How much does a fence permit cost in Riverton, and what is included?
Riverton charges a flat permit fee of $75–$150 for residential fences, depending on complexity. Non-masonry fences under 6 feet (permit-exempt or exempt-category) have no fee. Permitted fences (6+ feet, masonry, pool barriers, or front-yard) are $75–$100 if no structural inspection is needed, or $125–$150 if footing inspection is required. The fee includes plan review and final sign-off; inspections are included, not billed separately. There is no per-foot or per-linear-foot surcharge like in some cities. If you need a variance or conditional-use permit (e.g., a fence taller than code allows), add $300–$500 for the variance application and public hearing.
The city says my fence will 'encroach' on an easement. What does that mean, and what do I do?
An easement is a recorded legal right for a non-owner (usually a utility company like Rocky Mountain Power, Dominion Energy Gas, or a water district) to access or maintain infrastructure on your property. A common easement runs along the rear or side property line for a gas line, electric line, or water main. Building a fence on the easement (even if your fence does not physically touch the utility line) may violate the easement and give the utility company the right to remove the fence or demand you relocate it. Riverton's Building Department will flag this during plan review. Solution: contact the utility company (the easement holder) and request written permission to build the fence, or request that they identify the exact location of the line so you can place the fence outside the easement buffer (typically 3-5 feet from the centerline). Once you have utility approval, resubmit to the city. This usually adds 2-3 weeks to your timeline.
More permit guides
National guides for the most-asked homeowner permit projects. Each goes deep on code thresholds, common rejections, fees, and timeline.
Roof Replacement
Layer count, deck inspection, ice dam protection, hurricane straps.
Deck
Attached vs freestanding, footings, frost depth, ledger, height/area thresholds.
Kitchen Remodel
Plumbing, electrical, gas line, ventilation, structural changes.
Solar Panels
Structural review, electrical interconnection, fire setbacks, AHJ approval.
Fence
Height/material limits, sight triangles, pool barriers, setbacks.
HVAC
Equipment changeouts, ductwork, combustion air, ventilation, IMC sections.
Bathroom Remodel
Plumbing rough-in, ventilation, electrical (GFCI/AFCI), waterproofing.
Electrical Work
Subpermits, NEC sections, panel upgrades, GFCI/AFCI, who can pull.
Basement Finishing
Egress, ceiling height, electrical, moisture barriers, occupancy rules.
Room Addition
Foundation, footings, framing, electrical/plumbing extensions, structural.
Accessory Dwelling Units (ADU)
When permits are required, code thresholds, JADU vs ADU, electrical/plumbing/parking rules.
New Windows
Egress, header sizing, structural cuts, fire-rating, energy code.
Heat Pump
Electrical capacity, refrigerant handling, condensate, IECC compliance.
Hurricane Retrofit
Roof straps, garage door bracing, opening protection, FL OIR product approval.
Pool
Barriers, alarms, electrical bonding, plumbing, separation distances.
Fireplace & Wood Stove
Hearth, clearances, chimney, gas line work, NFPA 211.
Sump Pump
Discharge location, electrical, backup options, plumbing tie-in.
Mini-Split
Refrigerant lines, condensate, electrical disconnect, line set sleeve.