Research by DoINeedAPermit Research Team · Updated May 2026
The Short Answer
Most HVAC work in Farragut requires a permit: system replacement, new ductwork, refrigerant-line runs, and any change to capacity or efficiency. Routine maintenance (filter changes, freon top-offs) and minor repairs do not.
Farragut enforces the 2020 International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) and the 2020 National Fuel Gas Code, which means any system swap, duct modification, or refrigerant-circuit alteration triggers permit and inspection requirements. Unlike some Knox County neighbors (Knoxville, Oak Ridge) that have adopted older code editions, Farragut has stayed current with state adoption timelines, meaning your high-efficiency replacement must meet 2020 SEER and AFUE minimums. The City of Farragut Building Department requires HVAC contractors to be licensed; owner-builders can pull permits for owner-occupied single-family homes but must pass final inspection by a licensed professional or pull a separate contractor license. Permit fees run roughly 1-2% of system valuation (a $10,000 heat pump typically costs $150–$300 in permit and plan-review fees). The building department does NOT have online permit filing; you must apply in person at City Hall during business hours, which can stretch timeline if you're coordinating with a contractor working across multiple municipalities.

What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)

Farragut HVAC permits — the key details

The International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) and National Fuel Gas Code (NFGC) form the backbone of Farragut's HVAC rules. Any work that modifies a system's capacity, efficiency, fuel type, or duct configuration requires a permit and pre-work inspection. This includes: air-handler replacements, heat-pump swaps, furnace upgrades, central AC additions, ductwork extensions or reroutes, and refrigerant-line runs beyond 15 feet from the outdoor unit. Per IECC Section 503.2, replacement systems must meet current SEER (cooling) and AFUE (heating) minimums — 14 SEER and 92 AFUE for this climate zone — meaning older, less efficient units are not permitted. If your existing system is undersized or non-compliant, the permit application flags it; the inspector will not sign off until you either upgrade to code or document a variance request (rarely granted). The building department also enforces NFGC Chapter 2 gas-piping rules: any new gas furnace or boiler must include proper line-sizing, sediment trap, pressure regulator, and shutoff valve, all inspected before drywall or trim closes off the work. This is where DIY projects typically fail — homeowners run line-sizing calculations wrong or omit the sediment trap, then face condemnation and rework.

Farragut's owner-builder exemption is narrower than some Tennessee cities. You can pull an HVAC permit as an owner-builder if the property is your primary residence, you live there during construction, and you're replacing an existing system in kind (same fuel, same capacity class). Adding a new system (second AC zone, converting oil to gas), upgrading capacity beyond 20% of original design, or working on a rental or investment property requires a licensed HVAC contractor. Many homeowners mistakenly believe they can hire an unlicensed 'handyman' to do the work as long as they pull the permit themselves — this is false. The contractor performing the work must hold a state-issued HVAC license (Tennessee Department of Commerce and Insurance); the permit holder (you or the contractor) is liable for code violations. If an unlicensed person does the work and inspectors catch it, the permit is voided, work must be torn out, and you're liable for re-pulling and professional rework — easily $3,000–$5,000 in extra labor.

Farragut sits on karst limestone and expansive clay, creating unique ductwork and conduit challenges. The karst topography (sink-hole terrain) means contractors often run refrigerant lines and ductwork through exterior walls or attics to avoid underground routing; any exterior line must include sloped condensate drain and UV-protected insulation rated for Tennessee summer heat (outdoor temps exceed 95°F regularly). The soil's seasonal expansion can shift foundation supports, so any support bracket for outdoor equipment must be anchored to concrete footings below the frost line (18 inches in Farragut). The inspector will measure bracket heights and foundation-bolt torque; if the unit settles unevenly due to inadequate footings, you can face condemnation and removal. Additionally, Farragut enforces noise restrictions: outdoor condensers must be set back at least 5 feet from property lines and placed on vibration-isolation pads; some residential zones require a 6-foot screen fence if the unit is within 10 feet of a neighbor's window. This is not always obvious from the code section, but building-department staff and inspectors will cite it during final inspection.

The permit application process in Farragut is entirely in-person and takes 5-7 business days for plan review. You cannot submit online; you must visit City Hall with: a completed application form (available at the building department), a system-specification sheet (model, SEER/AFUE ratings, tonnage, fuel type), ductwork or line-routing sketches (rough drawings are fine), and proof of contractor licensure if applicable. The building department reviews for code compliance (sizing, efficiency, piping, condensate management) and zoning conflicts (setbacks, noise, screening). Most residential replacements are approved without issues; new systems, capacity upgrades, or unusual routing (conduit running through a historic district or near a wetland overlay) may trigger a second review or site visit. Once approved, you typically have 6-12 months to complete the work and request inspection. The final inspection checks: proper refrigerant charge (measured in pounds and pounds per 100 feet of line); ductwork sealing (blower-door or visual inspection for gaps); gas-piping integrity (pressure test and sediment-trap presence); condensate drain slope and clearance; outdoor-unit support and noise-isolation pads; and electrical grounding. If any detail fails, the inspector issues a correction notice (red tag); you have 14 days to remedy and request re-inspection. Re-inspection fees are typically waived for minor fixes but can run $75–$150 if work is extensive.

Cost and timeline expectations for Farragut HVAC permits: a straightforward heat-pump replacement (1,200-2,000 sq ft home) costs $10,000–$18,000 installed, plus $150–$300 in permit and inspection fees, plus 1-2 hours of contractor time to gather specs and submit paperwork. The entire process — application, plan review, installation, inspection, approval — typically takes 3-4 weeks if the contractor is familiar with Farragut's building department and no corrections are needed. If you use a contractor licensed in Knoxville or Alcoa but unfamiliar with Farragut's specific requirements, add 5-7 days for resubmittal and correction cycles. Many contractors pad their timeline to account for this; if a contractor quotes 'we'll have you running in 10 days,' they're either under-scoping the job or planning to work unpermitted. Owner-builders should expect 4-6 weeks because the building department requires detailed documentation (refrigerant-charge calculations, ductwork pressure-drop spreadsheets) and a final walkthrough with you present to sign off. Do not schedule your furnace removal date until the permit is actually approved in hand.

Three Farragut hvac scenarios

Scenario A
Heat-pump replacement, 2,000 sq ft rancher, existing ductwork, Farragut proper (no overlay districts)
Your 1998 split-system heat pump (10 SEER, 7.5 HSPF) is leaking refrigerant every summer and costing $300–$400 to service. You're ready to replace it with a new 18 SEER / 10 HSPF unit from the same manufacturer, reusing existing ductwork. Permit? Yes, required. Here's why and what it costs. Any change to system efficiency triggers the 2020 IECC Section 503.2 replacement-equipment standard, and Farragut enforces it strictly. The permit application ($150–$200 filing fee, assuming contractor applies) requires: model number and efficiency ratings (provided by the equipment supplier), ductwork sketch showing register locations (contractor usually has this), and existing system details (age, fuel type, capacity). The building department approves in 3-5 days if specs are in order (most are). Installation takes 1-2 days; the contractor runs a new refrigerant line (yours is corroded) from the outdoor unit to the indoor air handler, seals all ductwork seams with mastic, and charges the system per manufacturer specs (typically 2-3 pounds per 100 feet of line). The final inspection ($75 inspection fee, included in permit) happens after startup: the inspector verifies refrigerant charge (using a clamp-on ammeter and manufacturer's rating plate), checks that the condensate drain slopes downward and terminates outside, confirms the outdoor unit is on isolation pads and set back 5 feet from your property line, and runs a spot-check of the ductwork sealing (visual inspection for visible gaps, sometimes a blower-door test if ducts are inaccessible). If the condensate drain wasn't sloped properly or the outdoor unit isn't on pads, you get a red tag; these are 15-minute fixes, and re-inspection is waived. Total time: 5-7 days from permit application to final sign-off. Total cost: $10,500–$15,000 installed, $200–$250 permit and inspection fees. No surprises.
Permit required | Contractor must be licensed | $150–$200 permit fee | $75 inspection fee | Installation $10,000–$15,000 | 18 SEER minimum (IECC) | 5-7 day timeline | Reuse existing ductwork (no reroute)
Scenario B
New second AC zone added to existing furnace, 1,500 sq ft Cape Cod, Farragut near creek overlay
Your upstairs bedroom stays 8-10 degrees warmer than the downstairs living room because the original system (30-year-old furnace with single return) doesn't balance properly. You want to add a second AC unit (ductless mini-split: 1-ton condenser, wall-mounted head) to the bedroom and basement. This is a CAPACITY ADDITION, not a like-for-like replacement, so the rules are stricter. First, the zoning question: Farragut's planning department flags properties in the creek overlay (within 500 feet of a tributary) for environmental review. Your lot is near Clear Creek; the building department will require a site plan showing outdoor-unit placement, clearance from the creek (typically 50 feet), grading (no runoff toward the creek), and proof that the condenser pad doesn't encroach the floodway (you'll likely need a simple survey or a letter from your surveyor, $300–$500). Second, the code question: adding a 1-ton mini-split means new refrigerant lines (typically 25-40 feet from outdoor condenser to wall head), a new electrical circuit (240V or 120V depending on unit), and a new condensate line. All of this requires a full mechanical permit ($250–$350 filing fee) and electrical sub-permit ($100–$150). The mini-split itself doesn't trigger IECC replacement equipment rules because it's an addition, not a replacement; however, the outdoor condenser must meet noise and setback rules: 5 feet from your property line, no less than 6 feet from your neighbor's windows if you're in a zone that requires screening. If your lot is tightly spaced (as many Farragut neighborhoods are), placement becomes a negotiation with the building department. The inspector will require: a site plan (contractor often provides; ~$200–$400 for a professional plan); proof of electrical inspection (a licensed electrician must pull a sub-permit for the new 240V circuit); a photo of the refrigerant-line insulation and sealing; and a final walkthrough to verify condensate drain placement and outdoor-unit pad. The entire process stretches to 4-6 weeks because of the creek-overlay review and multi-trade coordination (HVAC, electrical, possibly surveying). Total installed cost: $6,000–$9,000 (mini-split systems are pricier per ton than central AC). Total permit and survey costs: $800–$1,200. Contractors unfamiliar with creek-overlay projects often miss the environmental-review step, which can delay approval by 2-3 weeks.
Permit required (capacity addition) | HVAC permit $250–$350 | Electrical sub-permit $100–$150 | Creek overlay review (environmental) | Site plan required ($200–$400) | Outdoor unit must be 5 feet from property line | 4-6 week timeline | Mini-split $6,000–$9,000 installed
Scenario C
Owner-builder furnace replacement (oil to gas), owner-occupied 1,900 sq ft Colonial, no overlay zones
You've owned your home for 20 years; it's your primary residence. The original oil furnace (1993, intermittently running) is failing; you want to replace it with a gas furnace and tie into the municipal gas line (already run to the house). You're pulling the permit yourself as an owner-builder to save on contractor labor. Here's what Farragut requires and where owner-builders often stumble. First: the fuel-type change (oil to gas) is NOT a simple replacement; it's a system alteration that requires the building department to verify gas-line sizing, sediment trap, pressure regulator, and safety relief valve — all NFGC Chapter 2. You CAN pull an owner-builder permit for this, but the actual installation must be done by a licensed HVAC contractor or you must obtain an HVAC contractor license yourself (Tennessee Department of Commerce and Insurance; very rare for single-home projects). Many owner-builders think they can hire an unlicensed handyman and sign off themselves — false. If the building department inspects and finds an unlicensed person did the work, the permit is voided and the system must be torn out and redone. Second: the gas-line work. Your oil tank (likely in the basement) must be capped and purged per EPA rules; the new gas line from the meter to the furnace must be sized for the BTU input (typically 40,000-80,000 BTU/hr for your home size), with a sediment trap at the furnace inlet and a drip leg at the lowest point of the line. These details are NOT optional; the inspector will place a red tag on your home if any are missing. Third: the application itself. As an owner-builder, you must complete a more detailed form than a contractor would (Form HVAC-OB or similar; check with Farragut building department for exact form name). You'll need: the new furnace model and AFUE rating (must be at least 92 AFUE per IECC), a sketch of the gas-line routing from the meter to the furnace, the name and license number of the HVAC contractor who will do the installation, and proof that the old oil tank will be professionally capped and abandoned (this is often overlooked; oil-tank removal/abandonment requires a licensed environmental contractor, typically $1,500–$2,500, separate from the furnace replacement). The building department review takes 5-7 days; the installation takes 2-3 days; the inspection happens immediately after furnace startup. The inspector checks: gas-line pressure (5-7 inches of water column at the furnace inlet), sediment trap (visible, clean), relief valve (present, rated correctly), furnace venting (proper clearances, no combustion-air restrictions), and the flue-gas vent pipe (minimum 1.25-inch diameter for your furnace size, properly sloped, no horizontal runs longer than 10 feet per NFGC Section 5.7.9). If venting is questionable, the inspector may require a combustion-safety test (CO and O2 readings), adding a day or two to the timeline. Total cost: furnace $3,500–$5,000, installation labor (contractor, since you're not licensed) $1,500–$2,500, oil-tank abandonment $1,500–$2,500, gas-line extension (if needed) $500–$1,500, permits and inspections $200–$300. Total project: $7,200–$11,800. Owner-builder advantages: you control the contractor and can negotiate price; you see every step of the installation. Owner-builder risks: if you hire an unlicensed person, the permit is voided; if the building department finds the old tank wasn't properly abandoned, you face environmental fines (hazardous-materials violations can run $5,000–$10,000). Timeline: 3-4 weeks from permit application to final sign-off, assuming no surprises.
Owner-builder permit allowed (owner-occupied only) | Contractor must be licensed to install | Fuel-type change (oil to gas) | NFGC gas-line inspection required | Oil-tank abandonment required ($1,500–$2,500) | Furnace $3,500–$5,000 | AFUE 92 minimum | 3-4 week timeline | $200–$300 permit fee

Every project is different.

Get your exact answer →
Takes 60 seconds · Personalized to your address

Karst terrain and outdoor-unit placement in Farragut HVAC projects

Farragut sits atop karst limestone: a subsurface riddled with sinkholes, underground streams, and collapse-prone cavities. This geology affects HVAC outdoor-unit placement in ways most homeowners and contractors don't anticipate. When you place a 2-3 ton condenser on a concrete pad in your backyard, you're adding concentrated weight (300-400 pounds) to soil that may be unstable 3-5 feet below the surface. If a sinkhole or subsurface void opens in the years after installation — and they do in Farragut — the pad can tilt or sink, causing refrigerant lines and electrical conduit to kink or separate. The building inspector is trained to spot soft soils or recent settling during the site inspection; if the ground is spongy or shows recent subsidence, the inspector will require a deeper concrete footing (below 18 inches frost depth) or a steel pier system anchored to bedrock. This is not a typical add-on for other Tennessee cities; it's specific to Farragut's geology.

The practical impact: outdoor-unit placement in Farragut is not just about property-line setbacks and neighbor clearance — it's about soil stability. If you're placing a unit on fill dirt, near a creek, or in a low spot where water collects, mention this to your contractor and building department. Some contractors charge an extra $500–$1,000 for a deep footing or pier system; this is normal in Farragut. Do not skip it to save money. If the unit settles unevenly after installation, the inspector can tag the system as non-compliant, and you'll face removal and reinstallation costs ($2,000–$4,000 in labor alone).

Additionally, Farragut's subtropical-humid summer climate (95°F+ regularly) means outdoor condensers must have adequate airflow and shade. The building department doesn't mandate shade, but the AHRI (Air Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration Institute) rating assumes 95°F ambient temperature; if your unit bakes in direct sun with no airflow, it will underperform and draw excess current, potentially shortening its life or tripping circuits. The inspector will note if the unit is in a confined space or directly against a wall; while not a code violation, the contractor should ensure at least 18 inches of clearance on three sides (per most manufacturer specs). This is a durability issue, not a permit issue, but it's worth discussing upfront.

Ductwork and efficiency testing in Farragut's 2020 IECC enforcement

Farragut adopted the 2020 IECC, which tightened requirements for ductwork sealing and pressure-drop limits. When you replace an HVAC system, the building inspector may require a duct-leakage test using a blower door (a fan that pressurizes the ductwork to 25 pascals and measures air escape). The allowable leakage is 15% of the system airflow; a 3-ton system running 1,200 CFM can leak no more than 180 CFM. For most residential ductwork, this is achievable by sealing all seams with mastic (not duct tape — code requires mastic or spray sealant), but if your home has a particularly long or branching duct run, the contractor may struggle to meet the limit. If a duct-leakage test fails, the contractor must reroute or add ductwork, which adds cost and timeline.

Many Farragut homes have attic ductwork, which is exposed to temperature extremes (110°F+ in summer, 20°F in winter). The 2020 IECC requires R-8 minimum insulation on all ductwork in unconditioned spaces (per IECC Section 403.2.7); older homes often have R-6 or bare ductwork. If your attic ducts are uninsulated or underinsulated, a building-department inspector may cite you during the final inspection or recommend (not mandate, but suggest) upgrading. Adding insulation typically costs $500–$1,000 and adds 2-3 days to the project if the contractor is thorough.

The pressure-drop calculation (ductwork size and branch ratios) is often where DIY or less experienced contractors fail. If you're adding a new duct branch (e.g., extending to a bonus room), the contractor must size the new ductwork so the static pressure at the new register doesn't exceed the system's design pressure (typically 0.5 inches water column). Too small a duct, and the new area will be cold; too large, and money is wasted on material. The building department doesn't typically require a formal pressure-drop calculation on paper, but the inspector will check ductwork sizing visually (8-inch main trunk, 6-inch branches, 5-inch twigs, roughly). If sizing looks obviously wrong, the inspector flags it. Contractors familiar with Farragut know to run ductwork calculations; those new to the city sometimes skip this step, resulting in a red tag and rework.

City of Farragut Building Department
Farragut City Hall, 11408 Municipal Center Drive, Farragut, TN 37934
Phone: 865-966-7057 (main); confirm HVAC permit line when calling | In-person application only; no online portal. Visit Farragut city website for application forms and current fee schedule.
Monday-Friday, 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM (closed major holidays; verify before visiting)

Common questions

Can I have my unlicensed nephew install the heat pump if I pull the permit as an owner-builder?

No. Even as an owner-builder pulling the permit yourself, the person doing the installation must hold a valid Tennessee HVAC license. The building inspector verifies contractor licensing before the final inspection; if an unlicensed person did the work, the permit is voided, and the system must be torn out and redone by a licensed contractor at your expense ($2,000–$5,000+ in rework). Owner-builder status applies to the permit application, not to who performs the labor.

My existing heat pump is 12 SEER and still cooling fine. Do I really need a permit just to add a second zone with a ductless unit?

Yes. Adding a new system (even a ductless mini-split) is a capacity addition, not a maintenance activity. It requires a mechanical permit, electrical sub-permit, and full inspection. The existing system's age and performance are irrelevant. Additionally, since you're adding a zone, the building department reviews the entire HVAC configuration for balance and efficiency; they may flag the old system as undersized relative to the new zone and recommend upgrading both systems together (though upgrading the old system is not mandatory unless it fails inspection for safety reasons).

What does the final HVAC inspection actually check for in Farragut?

The inspector verifies: refrigerant charge (pounds per 100 feet of line, measured via clamp-on ammeter and compared to manufacturer rating plate), ductwork sealing (mastic on all seams, visual inspection for gaps, and possibly a blower-door leakage test), condensate drain slope and termination (must slope downward at 1/8 inch per foot, exit outside above ground), outdoor-unit support and pads (vibration-isolation pads, proper anchoring, 5-foot setback from property line), electrical grounding and panel connections (if applicable), and safety shutoff valves. Gas-system inspections also check sediment trap, pressure regulator, and flue-gas venting (proper clearances, diameter, slope). Most inspections take 20-30 minutes; if something fails, the inspector issues a red tag and you have 14 days to correct.

Is there a difference in permitting if I use a Knoxville HVAC contractor versus a Farragut-based contractor?

Not in terms of permit rules, but there can be a timeline difference. A Farragut-based contractor is familiar with the building department's specific forms, fee schedules, and inspector preferences; they can often expedite the application process and know common pitfalls (e.g., creek-overlay review, soil-stability issues). A Knoxville contractor working in Farragut for the first time may be unfamiliar with local quirks and could experience a 5-7 day delay in plan review or resubmittal. Both must follow the same code; the difference is efficiency and familiarity, not compliance.

What are the 2020 IECC minimum efficiency ratings I need to meet for a replacement system in Farragut?

For climate zone 4A (western Farragut) and 3A (eastern Farragut), replacement systems must meet at least 14 SEER for cooling and 92 AFUE for heating (gas furnace or heat pump). High-efficiency equipment (16+ SEER, 95+ AFUE) is available and sometimes qualifies for federal tax credits; check the ENERGY STAR database and IRS guidelines if interested. The building department will not permit a system rated below these minimums.

Do I need a permit to replace an old window AC unit with a central AC addition?

Yes. Adding a central AC system (even converting from window units) is a system addition, not a replacement, so it requires a full mechanical permit, ductwork plan review, and electrical sub-permit. The building department will require an attic-inspection report to confirm adequate framing for ductwork and space for the indoor air handler, particularly if your home's attic is cramped or already occupied by other systems.

How long does the Farragut building department typically take to review an HVAC permit application?

Standard residential replacements (like-for-like system swap, reusing ductwork) typically take 3-5 business days. System additions, capacity upgrades, or properties in overlay zones (creek, floodway, historic district) can take 5-10 business days for full plan review and environmental checks. If you need to resubmit due to incomplete paperwork or code questions, add another 3-5 days per revision cycle. Plan for 3-4 weeks total from application to final inspection sign-off, to be safe.

What happens if my building inspector fails my final HVAC inspection?

The inspector issues a written correction notice (red tag) listing the deficiency. You have 14 days to correct the issue and request a re-inspection. Common failures include missing sediment traps (gas furnaces), improper condensate drain slope, outdoor unit not on vibration pads, or ductwork sealing incomplete. Most corrections are minor 15-30 minute fixes. Re-inspection is typically waived for minor corrections; if rework is extensive, re-inspection fees ($75–$100) may apply. If the issue is not corrected within 14 days, the permit expires and you must reapply.

If I'm buying a home in Farragut with an unpermitted HVAC system already in place, what's my risk?

At sale, you're required to disclose unpermitted systems in the Tennessee Real Estate Disclosure Form; buyers routinely negotiate $3,000–$8,000 price reductions or demand that the seller have the system permitted and inspected before closing. If you buy the home as-is without disclosure, you inherit the liability; refinancing or selling later is complicated because lenders will flag the non-compliant system. The safest option is to hire a licensed HVAC contractor to pull a retroactive permit and have the system inspected and brought to code (if fixable) before closing. This costs $500–$1,500 in permits and fees but avoids much larger problems later.

Disclaimer: This guide is based on research conducted in May 2026 using publicly available sources. Always verify current hvac permit requirements with the City of Farragut Building Department before starting your project.

Keep researching

Hvac permits in other Tennessee cities
Other permits in Farragut
Hvac permits in popular cities
Browse all

More permit guides

National guides for the most-asked homeowner permit projects. Each goes deep on code thresholds, common rejections, fees, and timeline.

Roof Replacement

Layer count, deck inspection, ice dam protection, hurricane straps.

Deck

Attached vs freestanding, footings, frost depth, ledger, height/area thresholds.

Kitchen Remodel

Plumbing, electrical, gas line, ventilation, structural changes.

Solar Panels

Structural review, electrical interconnection, fire setbacks, AHJ approval.

Fence

Height/material limits, sight triangles, pool barriers, setbacks.

HVAC

Equipment changeouts, ductwork, combustion air, ventilation, IMC sections.

Bathroom Remodel

Plumbing rough-in, ventilation, electrical (GFCI/AFCI), waterproofing.

Electrical Work

Subpermits, NEC sections, panel upgrades, GFCI/AFCI, who can pull.

Basement Finishing

Egress, ceiling height, electrical, moisture barriers, occupancy rules.

Room Addition

Foundation, footings, framing, electrical/plumbing extensions, structural.

Accessory Dwelling Units (ADU)

When permits are required, code thresholds, JADU vs ADU, electrical/plumbing/parking rules.

New Windows

Egress, header sizing, structural cuts, fire-rating, energy code.

Heat Pump

Electrical capacity, refrigerant handling, condensate, IECC compliance.

Hurricane Retrofit

Roof straps, garage door bracing, opening protection, FL OIR product approval.

Pool

Barriers, alarms, electrical bonding, plumbing, separation distances.

Fireplace & Wood Stove

Hearth, clearances, chimney, gas line work, NFPA 211.

Sump Pump

Discharge location, electrical, backup options, plumbing tie-in.

Mini-Split

Refrigerant lines, condensate, electrical disconnect, line set sleeve.