Research by DoINeedAPermit Research Team · Updated May 2026
The Short Answer
A full kitchen remodel in Burbank requires a permit if you're moving walls, relocating plumbing, adding electrical circuits, modifying gas lines, installing a ducted range hood, or changing window/door openings. Cosmetic-only work—cabinet and countertop swaps, appliance replacement on existing circuits, paint, flooring—is exempt.
Burbank, unlike some collar suburbs, uses the 2021 Illinois Building Code as its baseline, meaning you're subject to the same kitchen branch-circuit rules (IRC E3702: two small-appliance circuits minimum) and counter-receptacle spacing (no more than 48 inches apart, GFCI on every outlet within 6 feet of sink) that Chicago enforces—but Burbank's Building Department has its own quirk: they require a typed narrative description of plumbing relocation (trap arm, vent route, connection points) BEFORE plan review, not after. Many suburban departments let you show it graphically; Burbank wants words first. They also enforce the state's lead-paint disclosure rule strictly—if your home was built before 1978, you must sign a disclosure form before ANY permit is issued, and the contractor must follow EPA RRP rules (containment, HEPA vacuuming, disposal). This matters because discovery of lead during demolition can halt the project for 10 days and trigger soil testing if exterior walls are opened. Electrical and plumbing come as separate sub-permits (not bundled with the building permit), and Burbank's plan-review timeline averages 3-4 weeks for kitchens, shorter than Chicago (5-6 weeks) but longer than some northern suburbs (2-3 weeks). Gas-line work, if present, is a third sub-permit and requires a certified gas fitter; Burbank does NOT allow homeowners to pull gas permits themselves, even if owner-occupied.

What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)

Burbank full kitchen remodel permits—the key details

The biggest trap in Burbank kitchens is electrical circuits. IRC E3702 requires a minimum of two 20-amp small-appliance branch circuits in the kitchen, and every counter receptacle (within 6 feet of the sink) must be GFCI-protected—not just the one at the sink, but every outlet. Most homeowners (and some contractors) think GFCI means one outlet; Burbank inspectors will fail rough electrical if you don't show two clearly labeled circuits on your electrical plan, each serving specific appliances, with all counter receptacles on those circuits protected by GFCI breakers or outlets. A single 20-amp circuit serving microwave AND dishwasher is not acceptable—each needs its own circuit or a shared dedicated circuit that doesn't feed anything else. Burbank's online permit portal shows a sample electrical plan for kitchens; reference it when you or your electrician drafts yours.

Plumbing relocation is the second major trigger. If you're moving the sink, dishwasher, or any other fixture, Burbank requires a plumbing sub-permit with a detailed drawing showing: the new location, trap arm length (maximum 3 feet 6 inches from trap weir to vent, per IRC P2722), vent stack routing (must be vertical or slope upward at minimum 1/4 inch per foot to the roof or existing stack), and connection point to the main drain. The city's hidden rule—enforced during rough plumbing inspection—is that trap arm MUST be visible and accessible for rodding; if you're burying it in a wall cavity, the inspector will make you access-hatch it. Many Burbank contractors have been stopped mid-project because they tucked a new sink's trap arm into a soffit without an access point. Get the rough plumbing signed off before you order cabinet millwork.

Gas-line work is a hard stop for owner-builders in Burbank. Unlike the building and electrical permits (which owner-occupied homeowners can pull themselves in Illinois), the plumbing and gas permits require licensed contractors in Burbank. If you're moving or replacing a gas range, gas cooktop, or wall oven, you MUST hire a licensed gas fitter; Burbank does not issue gas permits to homeowners, period. The gas fitter will pull the permit, run a 50-PSI pressure test, and final-inspect. Cost is typically $400–$800 for the sub-permit and test; the fitter's labor is separate. If your original range is gas and you're replacing it with electric (or vice versa), you're triggering the gas permit anyway—capping the old line requires inspection.

Wall removal or relocation is the structural wild card. If you're opening up the kitchen by removing a wall—even a non-load-bearing one—Burbank requires a framing plan that clearly labels all studs as load-bearing or non-load-bearing. If ANY stud is load-bearing, you must submit a structural engineer's letter (or stamped beam design) showing the new support (beam size, posts, footing depth). Burbank's building inspector will measure frost depth (42 inches in the Burbank area, per glacial till soils) and require footings below frost. If you're converting a wall from load-bearing to non-load-bearing (e.g., removing a bearing wall and installing a beam), the engineer's letter must note load calculations and the design professional's stamp must be current (no older than 12 months). Skip the engineer, and the inspector will red-tag the framing; you'll have to hire one anyway, now mid-project.

The final critical detail: lead-paint disclosure. Burbank is part of Cook County; any home built before 1978 triggers the federal lead disclosure rule and Illinois state lead law. Before Burbank issues ANY permit (building, electrical, plumbing), you must sign a lead-paint disclosure form acknowledging that lead may be present. If you plan to do any demolition (removing old cabinets, tile, drywall), a licensed lead professional must conduct a pre-renovation inspection and clearance. If lead is found, the contractor must follow EPA RRP rules: plastic containment, HEPA-filtered vacuum, wet cleanup, and disposal at a licensed facility. This can add $1,500–$3,000 to a full remodel and extends the timeline by 1-2 weeks. Many contractors forget to budget this; Burbank inspectors will stop the permit if they learn lead work is being done without RRP certification on file.

Three Burbank kitchen remodel (full) scenarios

Scenario A
Cosmetic kitchen refresh—new cabinets, countertops, flooring, same plumbing and electrical (Morton Grove-style bungalow, pre-1978)
You're swapping out cabinets, installing quartz countertops, replacing the vinyl floor with tile, and repainting walls. The sink stays in the same location, the appliances stay in the same spots on existing circuits, and no electrical or plumbing work is done. This is exempt from permitting in Burbank because you're not relocating fixtures, adding circuits, or altering the home's systems. HOWEVER: because the home was built before 1978, you MUST have a lead inspection done before demolition (removing old cabinets, pulling tile). Cost: $300–$600 for a lead inspector's pre-renovation assessment. If lead is found on any substrate (paint, caulk, adhesive), your contractor must be EPA RRP-certified and follow containment rules—dust control is non-negotiable in a pre-1978 home. Timeline: lead inspection takes 2-3 days, lab results 5-7 days. The actual remodel (cabinet install, countertop fabrication, flooring, paint) takes 3-4 weeks and needs no city inspections. Total cost for permits: $0 (no permit required). Lead inspection and RRP certification: $1,500–$2,500 if lead is present and surfaces are disturbed. Final note: if you decide later to upgrade the electrical outlets (adding GFCI protection where none exists, or adding a new circuit for a future island), that work WILL require a permit; do it now if you're considering it.
No permit required (cosmetic-only) | Lead inspection required if pre-1978 | EPA RRP containment if lead present | Cabinet + countertop + flooring: $8,000–$25,000 | Permit cost: $0 | Lead + RRP cost: $1,500–$2,500
Scenario B
Island addition with new plumbing and electrical—1990s Burbank ranch, island includes sink, dishwasher, and 20-amp circuits
You're adding a 4-foot-by-8-foot island to the center of your kitchen. The island includes a new sink (hot and cold water lines, drain) and a dishwasher. You're also adding two dedicated 20-amp circuits for the island (one for the dishwasher, one for a future cooktop). This REQUIRES three sub-permits: building (framing island, footings if island exceeds certain load), plumbing (sink drain, water supply, vent), and electrical (two new circuits). Building permit: Burbank will require a simple framing plan showing island dimensions, post locations, and connection to the floor structure. If the island includes a cooktop or range, the structural load increases; you may need a brief engineer's letter confirming floor joist capacity. Cost: $300–$500 for the building permit (calculated on project valuation, roughly 1.5% of remodel cost). Plumbing permit: the drain line from the new sink must tie into the existing main drain; you'll need a drawing showing trap arm length, vent routing, and connection point. Burbank inspectors typically require a rough plumbing inspection (island framing and plumbing rough-in) before drywall. The water supply lines are less scrutinized but must be shown on the plan. Cost: $200–$350. Electrical permit: two new 20-amp circuits, each with dedicated breakers, routed through walls or under the floor to the island. The plan must show circuit routing, breaker size/amperage, and outlet locations (GFCI on one if sink is within 6 feet). Cost: $150–$250. Rough electrical inspection happens before drywall. Timeline: plan review 2-3 weeks, rough inspections 1-2 weeks apart, final inspection 1 week after drywall/trim. Total permit cost: $650–$1,100. Total project cost: $12,000–$35,000 (design, materials, labor). Lead: if the home is pre-1978 and you're cutting into existing walls or flooring, lead inspection and RRP certification apply. Inspection sequence: framing approved, rough plumbing scheduled, rough electrical scheduled, drywall, final plumbing, final electrical, final building (CO issued).
Permit required (plumbing + electrical + building) | Island framing plan required | Plumbing vent routing detail required | Two 20-amp circuits required (per IRC E3702) | GFCI on all counter receptacles | Rough inspections: plumbing, electrical, framing | Permit fees: $650–$1,100 | Project cost: $12,000–$35,000
Scenario C
Load-bearing wall removal to open kitchen to dining room—1970s Burbank colonial, wall holds roof truss and second-floor floor
Your 1970s colonial has a non-structural-looking wall between the kitchen and dining room, but it's load-bearing: it supports floor joists above and, indirectly, roof trusses. You want to remove it and install a steel or engineered-wood beam to carry the load. Burbank REQUIRES a structural engineer's stamped letter and beam-design plan for this work. The engineer must calculate the tributary load (all weight above the wall), specify beam size (likely a 10- or 12-inch steel beam or LVL), post spacing (typically 4-6 feet), and footing depth (minimum 42 inches below finished grade in Burbank, to account for frost line and glacial till soil). Cost for the engineer's design and stamp: $800–$1,500. Permit: Burbank's building inspector will review the engineer's letter, approve the design, and require inspections at three stages: (1) foundation/footing (before concrete is poured), (2) beam installation (before drywall), (3) final (after drywall and trim). Building permit cost: $400–$800 (based on valuation; larger projects cost more). If the wall contains plumbing or electrical, those trades must relocate before demolition; add plumbing and electrical sub-permits ($300–$600 combined). If the wall is exterior (unlikely in this scenario but possible), add a structural engineer letter confirming no water intrusion or thermal bridging issues. Timeline: engineer design 2-3 weeks, plan review 2-3 weeks, permitting 1 week, construction 2-4 weeks (including material lead time for steel), inspections 1-2 weeks. Total cost: engineer $800–$1,500, permit $400–$800, beam material and installation $2,500–$6,000, plumbing/electrical relocation $500–$1,500, kitchen finishes (cabinets, counters, etc.) $5,000–$20,000. Total: $9,200–$30,300. Lead: if interior walls are demoed in a pre-1978 home, lead inspection is required but typically limited to the wall being removed (dust containment and wet cleanup). Burbank inspectors are strict about this; RRP-certified contractor mandatory.
Permit required (structural + building + plumbing + electrical) | Structural engineer stamped design REQUIRED | Footing depth: 42 inches (frost line) | Steel or LVL beam sizing required | Load calculation required | Foundation inspection, beam inspection, final inspection | Permit fees: $1,200–$2,100 | Engineer cost: $800–$1,500 | Beam + install: $2,500–$6,000

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Burbank's electrical kitchen rules: GFCI, circuits, and the two-circuit trap

IRC E3702 mandates two 20-amp small-appliance branch circuits in the kitchen, but many homeowners and some contractors misinterpret this as 'one GFCI outlet at the sink covers it.' Wrong. The rule means two SEPARATE circuits, each protected by GFCI (either at the breaker or individual outlets), and both must serve the kitchen countertop areas where small appliances plug in. Burbank's inspectors enforce this strictly: during rough electrical inspection, they will trace each circuit breaker to its outlets and verify that no more than one circuit is shared between, say, the dishwasher and a countertop receptacle. The two circuits must be clearly labeled in the panel and on the electrical plan submitted with the permit application.

The second trap: counter receptacle spacing. IRC E3801 says no countertop receptacle shall be more than 48 inches from another receptacle (measured along the countertop edge). This means if your countertop is 12 feet long, you need at least three receptacles, not two. Burbank inspectors count and measure. If you're installing new cabinetry with a new countertop, the electrician must plot the cabinet layout, measure the countertop, and place receptacles accordingly. Most Burbank rejection letters for kitchen electrical include 'counter receptacles exceed 48-inch spacing' or 'missing GFCI label in panel.' Re-submitting a revised plan takes another week.

GFCI protection itself is a nuance: you can use a GFCI breaker (protects the whole circuit) or GFCI outlets (the first outlet in the circuit is GFCI, subsequent outlets are regular but protected). Burbank doesn't mandate one over the other, but GFCI breakers are simpler to inspect and troubleshoot. If you're using GFCI outlets, the outlet must be labeled 'GFI' and subsequent non-GFCI outlets must be labeled 'GFCI Protected' or the inspector will flag it. Electricians doing Burbank kitchens almost always use GFCI breakers for simplicity. Cost difference: negligible ($20–$30).

Finally: if the kitchen has a dedicated microwave circuit or oven circuit in addition to the two small-appliance circuits, those are separate and don't count toward the two-circuit minimum. However, if you're relocating a wall and the old microwave outlet ends up in a nonsense location, you'll need to run a new circuit or reroute the old one. This is why plumbing, electrical, and framing inspections happen in sequence: you can't finalize electrical until framing rough-in is signed off.

Lead paint, RRP, and pre-1978 kitchen demolition in Burbank

Burbank sits in Cook County, Illinois, where the lead-paint disclosure law and EPA RRP (Renovation, Repair, and Painting) rules are enforced aggressively by the Illinois Department of Public Health. If your home was built before 1978, any permit issued by the city comes with a mandatory lead-paint disclosure form that you (the homeowner) and the contractor must sign. Failure to sign delays the permit; failure to follow RRP rules during renovation can result in state fines up to $25,000 and contractor license suspension. This is not a city-level rule—it's state and federal—but Burbank's Building Department verifies the signed disclosure before issuing the permit and again at final inspection.

What does RRP mean in a kitchen context? If you're removing old cabinets, pulling tile, stripping paint, or opening walls and the surfaces contain lead (common in pre-1978homes), the work must be done with containment: plastic sheeting, negative air (HEPA-filtered shop vac pulling air OUT of the work area), wet cleaning (no dry sweeping or vacuuming), and disposal of lead-contaminated waste at a licensed facility. A licensed lead professional must conduct a pre-renovation inspection (paint chip or dust sample testing, $300–$600) and post-renovation clearance testing (visual inspection + dust wipe sampling, $400–$800). If lead is found, the contractor must be EPA RRP-certified (training, not license); if not, Burbank will cite the permit and may issue a stop-work order. Typical RRP cost for a kitchen: $1,500–$3,000 if lead is found; $0 if none detected (rare in pre-1978 homes).

The timeline impact is significant: pre-renovation inspection takes 2-3 days; lab results 5-7 days; post-renovation clearance testing happens after all demolition is complete, adding 5-7 days. If lead is found and RRP work is required, the contractor must order containment materials (plastic, tape, HEPA vac rental) before starting demolition. Many Burbank kitchen projects stall here because the homeowner didn't budget time or money for lead testing. Our advice: if your home is pre-1978, hire a lead professional to test BEFORE you hire the contractor or pull the permit. Know if lead is present, get your ducks in a row, and include RRP costs in your estimate.

One more wrinkle: if lead is discovered during work (e.g., under cabinet trim or in joint compound), the contractor must STOP, contain the area, and schedule clearance testing before continuing. This can add 1-2 weeks and $500–$1,000 to the budget. Burbank inspectors will ask to see the lead inspection and clearance reports at final inspection; if they're missing, the CO is withheld.

City of Burbank Building Department
Burbank City Hall, 7510 W. 79th Street, Burbank, IL 60459
Phone: (708) 422-6700 — ask for Building Department or Permit Services | Burbank permit portal: https://www.burbank.il.us/ (check 'Permits' or 'Building Services' for online application; many Burbank permits still require in-person submission)
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM–5:00 PM (call to confirm permit window hours; some departments limit walk-in during lunch)

Common questions

Can I pull a kitchen permit myself if I'm the owner and live in the house?

Yes—in Illinois, owner-occupants can pull building and electrical permits for their own home. However, plumbing and gas permits in Burbank MUST be pulled by a licensed plumber and gas fitter, respectively. If your kitchen involves plumbing relocation or a gas range, you're hiring a licensed contractor for at least two of the three sub-permits. The building and electrical permits you can technically pull yourself, but most homeowners hire a general contractor or electrician to do the paperwork because it requires detailed plans and inspections that need professional sign-off.

How long does the permit review take in Burbank for a kitchen remodel?

Initial plan review typically takes 2–4 weeks for kitchens, depending on complexity. If the plans are incomplete (missing electrical detail, no plumbing vent routing, no GFCI labels), expect a rejection letter with requests for revisions; resubmit and add another 1–2 weeks. Once approved, permits are issued the same day or next business day. Construction itself (rough-in inspections, finishes, final) adds 4–8 weeks depending on scope. Total timeline from permit application to CO: 8–14 weeks for a full remodel with wall removal.

What's the most common reason for kitchen permit rejections in Burbank?

Missing or incorrect electrical detail, specifically: (1) two small-appliance circuits not shown with breaker labels, (2) counter receptacles exceeding 48-inch spacing, (3) no GFCI labeling in the panel schedule. Second most common: plumbing plans without vent routing or trap-arm length. Burbank requires a plumbing narrative description (typed explanation of where water/drain lines go) BEFORE submitting a graphical plan—skip the narrative, expect a rejection. Third: load-bearing wall removal without an engineer's stamped letter.

Do I need a permit to replace my kitchen sink if it stays in the same location?

No—replacing fixtures on existing rough-in (water supply and drain lines) with the same fixture type is exempt. You can swap a sink, faucet, or dishwasher with no permit as long as the water/drain connections are unchanged. However, if you're upgrading the faucet to one with a pull-down sprayer or a fancy sensor, and it requires a new hot-water line or drain modification, you'll need a plumbing permit. When in doubt, ask: are you opening the wall behind the sink or modifying any rough-in? If yes, permit.

If my kitchen is in a pre-1978 home, what do I need to do before permitting?

Get a lead-paint inspection before you hire a contractor or pull a permit. A licensed lead professional will test paint, dust, and soil ($300–$600). Results take 5–7 days. If lead is found, any contractor doing demolition must be EPA RRP-certified. Inform Burbank in writing (on the lead-disclosure form) that lead is present; the city will note it on your permit file. If lead is not found, you still sign the disclosure form acknowledging you had the inspection done. Burbank requires proof of the inspection report (or a waiver signed by you if you decline testing) before final CO is issued.

Can I do the demo (ripping out old cabinets and tile) before getting permits and a contractor lined up?

Not if lead might be present. If your home is pre-1978, demolition work IS considered a 'renovation' under EPA RRP rules, and you must have a lead inspection completed, results in hand, and an RRP plan in place BEFORE any demolition starts. If you start demo and lead is discovered during the work, you're violating federal law and Burbank can issue a citation. If the home is post-1978, you can do cosmetic demo (removing cabinets, flooring) without a permit, but if you're opening walls (plumbing, electrical, structural), you need permits before walls are opened.

What if I add a gas range to my kitchen? Do I need a special permit?

Yes—if you're installing or relocating a gas appliance (range, cooktop, wall oven), you need a gas permit. Burbank does NOT allow owner-builders to pull gas permits; you must hire a licensed gas fitter. The fitter will pull the permit ($400–$800), run a 50-PSI pressure test on the line, and obtain a final inspection. If you're converting from electric to gas (or vice versa), the old gas line (if present) must be capped and inspected. Cost: typically $800–$1,500 for gas-line work and permitting combined.

What if I want to move the kitchen sink to a different wall? What do I need to show on the plumbing plan?

You need a plumbing plan showing: (1) new sink location and dimensions, (2) hot and cold supply lines (copper or PEX, size), (3) drain line with trap arm length (max 3.5 feet from trap weir to vent per IRC P2722), (4) vent stack routing (vertical or sloped at 1/4 inch per foot upward, terminating through roof or into existing vent stack), (5) connection point to main drain line, and (6) any access panels or cleanout locations. Burbank's twist: submit a TYPED NARRATIVE first describing the routing in words, then submit the graphical plan. The narrative helps inspectors understand your intent; the graph shows the details. Without the narrative, expect a rejection and re-submit loop.

How much does a full kitchen permit cost in Burbank?

Permit fees vary by total project cost (called 'valuation'). Typically, a $20,000 kitchen remodel will incur $300–$500 in building permit fees (1.5–2% of valuation), plus $200–$350 for plumbing and $150–$250 for electrical, totaling $650–$1,100. If structural work (wall removal, beam) is needed, add $300–$500. Gas permit (if applicable) adds $400–$800. These are estimates; actual fees depend on Burbank's current fee schedule. Call the Building Department to confirm.

What happens at final inspection for a kitchen remodel in Burbank?

Final inspection covers (1) building (framing, drywall, structural connections if a beam was installed), (2) plumbing (all fixtures connected, no leaks, vent termination visible on roof or in attic), (3) electrical (all circuits tested, GFCI outlets functional, breaker labels correct), and sometimes (4) mechanical if a range hood was added. The inspector will walk through, test outlets with a GFCI tester, check that all work matches the approved plans, and look for any code violations. If everything passes, the Certificate of Occupancy (CO) is issued same-day or next day. If not, you get a list of corrections; re-inspect takes 1–2 weeks. For lead, if the home is pre-1978, the inspector will ask to see the post-renovation clearance report before signing off.

Disclaimer: This guide is based on research conducted in May 2026 using publicly available sources. Always verify current kitchen remodel (full) permit requirements with the City of Burbank Building Department before starting your project.