What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)
- Stop-work order and $100–$500 fine per violation; you cannot legally continue work once the city is notified, and removing a wall or running new circuits without a permit is a structural violation.
- Double permit fees when you pull the permit after the fact: Concord charges the original permit fee plus a $200–$400 reinspection surcharge, and inspectors may reject work already in the wall if it doesn't match code.
- Insurance denial: most homeowners' policies exclude coverage for unpermitted electrical, plumbing, or structural work; a claim involving a kitchen fire or water damage could be denied entirely.
- Resale disclosure: New Hampshire does not require a permit-history disclosure on the seller's property condition form, but a future buyer's inspector will flag unpermitted work during home inspection, forcing a price renegotiation or deal collapse.
Concord kitchen remodel permits — the key details
The starting point: Concord's Building Department (part of the Planning and Permitting Division) uses the 2015 IBC with New Hampshire amendments, and the single biggest rule is that any structural change — including a load-bearing wall removal — requires a permit and an engineer's letter. The IRC R602.3 defines a load-bearing wall as one that supports roof or floor loads; in a one-story ranch, almost every wall perpendicular to the rafters is load-bearing. If you're opening up the kitchen to the dining room by removing the wall between them, you must hire a structural engineer ($400–$1,200) to size a beam and submit that calcs letter with your building permit application. Concord's building inspector will not sign off on the rough framing inspection without it. The three-permit requirement means you'll pay three separate application fees: building ($150–$300), plumbing ($150–$250), and electrical ($150–$250), totaling $450–$800 before any plan review. The kitchen also triggers electrical work that many homeowners overlook: per IRC E3702.1, kitchens require two small-appliance branch circuits (SABC) — 20-amp circuits dedicated to countertop receptacles — and every countertop outlet must be GFCI-protected and spaced no more than 48 inches apart. If your electrician isn't showing those two circuits on the electrical plan, the plan-review engineer will kick it back.
Plumbing is the second complexity. If you're moving the sink, dishwasher, or garbage disposal, the drain line must slope at 1/4 inch per foot minimum toward the main stack, and the vent must rise unobstructed to the roof (per IRC P2722.2 and P3103). Concord soil is glacial granite with a 48-inch frost depth, so if your kitchen is on a slab, the inspector will check that any new drain penetrations are sloped correctly and trapped properly. The plumbing plan must show the old and new trap locations, the vent routing, and how the new piping connects to the existing main stack. If you're adding a dishwasher and there isn't one now, that's a new fixture requiring both a new drain branch and a new 1/2-inch hot-water line, and the inspector will verify the connection at the plan-review stage. Gas lines fall into the same category: if you're moving a gas range or adding a new gas appliance, the plumbing permit also covers gas, and you must show the new gas line routing, the shutoff valve location, and compliance with IRC G2406 (gas appliance connections). A gas line running through an exterior wall in zone 6A must be insulated to prevent condensation.
Range-hood venting is a trap many homeowners miss. If you're installing a range hood that vents to the exterior (not recirculating), the duct must be shown on BOTH the electrical plan (as an appliance) and the building plan (as a roof or wall penetration). The duct must be sealed where it penetrates the exterior wall, and in zone 6A, you need a backdraft damper or motorized damper to prevent cold air from infiltrating when the hood is off. The building code IRC M1502.1 requires that the duct termination cap is at least 1 foot above the highest point of the roof within 10 feet, or at least 12 inches from any window or door. Concord inspectors will look at this during the final inspection, and if the duct is undersized (most kitchens need a 6-inch duct for a 400-CFM hood), the inspector will flag it as inadequate.
The permit timeline and inspection sequence in Concord is strictly: submit all three permit applications (building, plumbing, electrical) at the same time. Building reviews first and may approve or kick back within 5–7 business days. Plumbing and electrical review in parallel once building clears; that's another 5–7 days. Once all plans are approved, you can start work. Inspections happen in order: rough plumbing (before walls close), rough electrical (before walls close), framing/structural (after walls are up, before drywall), drywall (after drywall is hung), and final (all work complete). Each inspection must be scheduled 24 hours in advance through the online portal. If the inspector fails any rough inspection, you cannot proceed until the deficiency is fixed and the inspector re-approves. A failed rough electrical or plumbing inspection can add 2–3 weeks to your timeline.
One more critical detail: if your home was built before 1978, Concord requires a lead-paint disclosure signed by you and the contractor before any renovation work begins, per the federal EPA RRP Rule. The contractor must be RRP-certified and must use containment and wet-wiping to minimize dust. Failure to do this correctly can result in fines of $100–$500 per day and is a significant liability issue. The Building Department does not enforce the RRP Rule directly, but if an inspector sees evidence of lead-paint disturbance without containment, they can issue a notice of violation. Many Concord contractors build the RRP compliance ($500–$1,500) into the bid, so confirm that your contractor is RRP-certified and that the scope includes containment and clearance testing before you begin.
Three Concord kitchen remodel (full) scenarios
The three-permit sequence: why Concord requires separate building, plumbing, and electrical approvals
Concord's Building Department enforces the 2015 IBC by separating permitting authority into three branches: building (structural, fire, roof/wall penetrations), plumbing (water supply, drainage, venting, gas), and electrical (circuits, outlets, fixtures). This is standard in most New Hampshire municipalities but creates a longer timeline because each permit is reviewed sequentially, not in parallel. Why? The building inspector must approve the floor plan and structural changes first (so the plumbing and electrical inspectors know where the walls will be); then plumbing and electrical review in parallel. If the building plan shows a wall removal with a 12-inch beam, but the plumbing plan still shows a drain line running through the beam's support column, the plumbing plan gets kicked back until it's redrawn.
In practice: you submit all three applications together. The building permit is stamped 'approved' or 'rejected with comments' within 5–7 business days. Once building is approved, the city sends the plumbing and electrical plans to their respective plan reviewers (often consultants, not city staff). Those reviews happen in parallel and take another 5–7 days. If either is rejected, you revise and resubmit that permit only. This means a worst-case scenario is 3–4 rejections and resubmittals, stretching the plan-review phase to 4–5 weeks. Once all three are approved, you can schedule the first inspection (rough plumbing) immediately.
The fee structure reflects this separation. Building permit: $150–$300 (based on construction valuation, typically 1.5% of estimated cost). Plumbing permit: $150–$250. Electrical permit: $150–$250. Total permit cost for a $20,000 kitchen: roughly $600–$800. This is higher than a city that bundles kitchen permits into a single omnibus fee (some cities charge $300 flat for any kitchen remodel), but Concord's separation forces more rigorous review and catches code violations earlier.
Lead-paint RRP compliance in Concord: what triggers it, what it costs, and why inspectors care
If your home was built before 1978, federal EPA Rule 40 CFR 745 (the Renovation, Repair, and Painting Rule, or RRP Rule) requires that any contractor disturbing more than 6 square feet of painted surface must be RRP-certified, must notify occupants of the hazard, and must contain and minimize dust using specific techniques (plastic sheeting, HEPA vacuums, wet-wiping, clearance testing). In Concord, this applies to kitchens because wall removal, cabinet installation, and drywall work all disturb old paint. The Concord Building Department does not directly enforce the RRP Rule — that's the EPA's jurisdiction — but if an inspector observes RRP violations (open drywall work without containment, visible dust on windows or adjacent rooms), they can issue a stop-work order and a notice of violation.
What it costs: RRP compliance for a full kitchen typically runs $1,500–$3,000. This includes containment setup (plastic sheeting, negative air machine), lead-safe work practices (wet-wiping instead of sanding, HEPA vacuums), and a clearance test by an EPA-certified lead inspector at the end (typically $400–$600 per test). Many contractors build this into the bid; if yours hasn't mentioned it and your home is pre-1978, ask explicitly whether they are RRP-certified and what their containment plan is. If they say 'no problem, we'll just be careful,' they are exposing you to liability. The EPA can fine homeowners and contractors $100–$500 per day for RRP violations, and if anyone in the household (especially children) is tested for elevated blood-lead levels after the renovation, the contractor could be liable for remediation costs.
Verification: before signing a contract, ask the contractor for their RRP certification (it's an EPA-issued ID number, searchable on the EPA website). Ask to see photos of similar pre-1978 kitchen jobs they've done and their clearance-test reports. If the contractor is not RRP-certified, hire a separate RRP-certified firm to manage the work (a lead abatement company). The cost is higher, but it protects you legally and ensures the work is done right.
City of Concord, Concord, NH 03301 (call or check concordnh.gov for specific department address and suite number)
Phone: (603) 225-8510 (main city number; ask for Building or Permitting Department) | https://www.concordnh.gov (search 'permits' or 'building permits' for online portal link)
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM (verify holidays and hours at concordnh.gov)
Common questions
Do I need a permit to replace my kitchen cabinets and countertops if I'm not moving anything?
No. Cabinet and countertop replacement, if the sink stays in the same location and no new electrical or plumbing work is done, is cosmetic and exempt from permitting in Concord. You do not need to apply for a permit. However, if the new cabinets require a new outlet or if you're moving the sink even slightly, a permit is required.
What if I remove a wall in my kitchen? Do I really need an engineer?
Yes. If the wall is load-bearing (most walls perpendicular to the rafters in a one-story home are), Concord's Building Code requires a structural engineer's letter and beam-sizing calculations before the building permit will be approved. The cost is $400–$1,200, but it is non-negotiable. If you skip it, the inspector will stop the work and fine you.
How long does it take to get a kitchen permit in Concord?
Plan review takes 2–4 weeks if the plans are complete and code-compliant on first submission. If there are rejections or clarifications needed, add 1–2 weeks per revision. Once all three permits (building, plumbing, electrical) are approved, inspections begin and take 3–4 weeks depending on the scope. Total time from application to final inspection: 5–8 weeks.
Can I do the kitchen work myself, or do I need a licensed contractor?
New Hampshire allows owner-builders for owner-occupied homes, so you can perform the work yourself if you own the home and live in it. However, you still need permits and must pass inspections. Electrical and plumbing work must meet code, so if you are not experienced, hire licensed electricians and plumbers for those scopes; you can do demolition, framing, and finish work. Concord inspectors will not care who did the work, only that it meets code.
My kitchen is on the second floor. Does that change the permit requirements?
No. Second-floor kitchens are permitted the same way as first-floor kitchens. The main difference is that plumbing vent stacks may be routed differently (they must still clear the roof or tie into an existing vent), and the inspector will verify that drain slopes are correct even with the added vertical drop. This does not exempt you from permits or change the fee.
If I'm just swapping out my gas range for an electric one (or vice versa), do I need a permit?
Yes. Changing a gas appliance to electric (or electric to gas) requires electrical and/or plumbing permits. If you're switching to electric, you need a new 240-volt circuit (20 amps minimum for an electric range), and the gas line must be capped and abandoned per code. If you're switching to gas, a new gas line must be run and inspected. These are not cosmetic changes and will be flagged during a home inspection or resale.
What is a small-appliance branch circuit, and why does my electrician keep asking about them?
Per IRC E3702, kitchens require two dedicated 20-amp circuits for countertop outlets (one for each countertop area). These are called small-appliance branch circuits (SABC) and must not be shared with other loads. They power coffee makers, toasters, and small appliances. Every countertop outlet must be GFCI-protected and spaced no more than 48 inches apart. If your electrical plan doesn't show these two circuits clearly, Concord's plan reviewer will reject it and you'll have to revise.
I'm moving my sink 3 feet to the left. Does that require a plumbing permit?
Yes. Moving a sink, even 3 feet, requires a plumbing permit because the drain line (trap and vent) must be rerouted and inspected. The inspector will verify that the new drain slopes correctly (1/4 inch per foot) and that the vent stack connects properly. Do not do this without a permit.
My house was built in 1975. What does that mean for my kitchen remodel?
It means lead-paint disclosure and RRP compliance are required. Before any renovation work (demolition, wall removal, cabinet removal) can begin, you and your contractor must sign a lead-hazard notification form, and the contractor must be EPA RRP-certified. The work must include containment (plastic sheeting, negative air machines) and clearance testing. This adds $1,500–$3,000 to the budget but is legally required and protects your family from lead dust exposure.
Can I start my kitchen remodel before the permits are approved?
No. Concord law prohibits work from beginning before all permits are approved and inspections scheduled. If you start before permits are issued and the city finds out (through a neighbor complaint or routine inspection), you will receive a stop-work order and a $100–$500 fine. Do not begin demolition or any structural work until you have signed, approved permits in hand.
More permit guides
National guides for the most-asked homeowner permit projects. Each goes deep on code thresholds, common rejections, fees, and timeline.
Roof Replacement
Layer count, deck inspection, ice dam protection, hurricane straps.
Deck
Attached vs freestanding, footings, frost depth, ledger, height/area thresholds.
Kitchen Remodel
Plumbing, electrical, gas line, ventilation, structural changes.
Solar Panels
Structural review, electrical interconnection, fire setbacks, AHJ approval.
Fence
Height/material limits, sight triangles, pool barriers, setbacks.
HVAC
Equipment changeouts, ductwork, combustion air, ventilation, IMC sections.
Bathroom Remodel
Plumbing rough-in, ventilation, electrical (GFCI/AFCI), waterproofing.
Electrical Work
Subpermits, NEC sections, panel upgrades, GFCI/AFCI, who can pull.
Basement Finishing
Egress, ceiling height, electrical, moisture barriers, occupancy rules.
Room Addition
Foundation, footings, framing, electrical/plumbing extensions, structural.
Accessory Dwelling Units (ADU)
When permits are required, code thresholds, JADU vs ADU, electrical/plumbing/parking rules.
New Windows
Egress, header sizing, structural cuts, fire-rating, energy code.
Heat Pump
Electrical capacity, refrigerant handling, condensate, IECC compliance.
Hurricane Retrofit
Roof straps, garage door bracing, opening protection, FL OIR product approval.
Pool
Barriers, alarms, electrical bonding, plumbing, separation distances.
Fireplace & Wood Stove
Hearth, clearances, chimney, gas line work, NFPA 211.
Sump Pump
Discharge location, electrical, backup options, plumbing tie-in.
Mini-Split
Refrigerant lines, condensate, electrical disconnect, line set sleeve.