What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)
- Stop-work order plus $500–$1,500 in fines; Deer Park Building Department can order removal of unpermitted work, costing $5,000–$20,000+ in demolition and rework.
- Electrical or plumbing work without permits voids homeowner's insurance claims on that system—a kitchen fire or water damage tied to unpermitted wiring or drain work leaves you uninsured.
- Home sale disclosure: unpermitted kitchen work must be revealed on the Residential Property Condition form; buyer can demand price reduction or walk away, costing 3–7% of home value.
- Mortgage refinance denial: lenders order title searches and building permits; unpermitted structural or electrical work triggers automatic decline, locking you out of rate improvements worth thousands over the loan term.
Deer Park kitchen remodel permits—the key details
The Texas Building Code (TBC), which Deer Park enforces, defines kitchen work through three separate code tracks: Building (IRC R602 for load-bearing walls, R304 for egress), Plumbing (IRC P2722 for sink-drain sizing, P2706 for trap arms, P3103 for venting), and Electrical (IRC E3702 for small-appliance branch circuits, E3801 for GFCI protection, E3005 for counter-receptacle spacing). Any single trade requiring a permit triggers a three-permit sequence. A wall relocation is Building + Plumbing (drain may need rerouting) + Electrical (new outlet). A plumbing fixture relocation is Plumbing + Electrical (if new circuits run to new location). A gas-line move is Building + Plumbing + Mechanical (HVAC permit, since gas lines are vented through the same ductwork as range hoods in most kitchen layouts). Deer Park's Building Department publishes a Kitchen Remodel Checklist on its website; it lists seventeen required plan sheets: electrical load calculation, small-appliance circuit detail, GFCI outlet placement drawing, plumbing riser diagram, trap-arm and venting detail, structural framing plan (if walls move), beam sizing (if load-bearing wall removed), gas-line routing, range-hood termination detail (interior duct route + exterior cap specification), and lead-paint disclosure (if pre-1978). Missing any one of these triggers a rejection notice; resubmission adds 1–2 weeks.
Electrical work in Deer Park kitchens must comply with the Texas Electrical Code (TEC, equivalent to NEC Article 210). Two dedicated 20-amp small-appliance branch circuits are required for counter receptacles; they cannot be shared with lights, disposal, or dishwasher. Counter receptacles must be spaced no more than 48 inches apart (measuring from the center of each outlet along the countertop edge); this is a common rejection point. GFCI protection is mandatory on all counter receptacles, island receptacles, and receptacles within 6 feet of the sink. Deer Park inspectors verify GFCI via the outlet itself (push-test button visible) or through a GFCI breaker in the panel; manufacturers' data sheets showing breaker model and trip spec are expected on the electrical plan. Range-hood circuits are separate from small-appliance circuits; a 240-volt range hood (typical for gas cooktops) requires its own breaker and wire gauge (usually 10 AWG for a 30-amp circuit, or 8 AWG for 40-amp if induction cooktop is substituted). Under-cabinet lighting is permitted but must be on the small-appliance circuit or a dedicated lighting circuit; it cannot tap the switched outlet behind the range. Any new circuit—for an island, a relocated refrigerator, or a disposal—must be shown on a single-line electrical diagram with wire gauge, breaker size, and distance from panel to load. Failing to show wire gauge is an automatic rejection.
Plumbing changes in Deer Park kitchens trigger inspection at three stages: rough-in (drain/vent/supply lines before drywall), behind-wall (after drywall but before fixtures), and final (all fixtures installed, tested). The sink drain must be sized per IRC P2722—a single-bowl sink is 1.5 inches; a double-bowl is 1.5 inches for the main drain if the bowls are deeper than 6 inches, or 1.25 inches if shallower. Trap arms (the horizontal run from trap to vent stack) must slope at least 1/4 inch per foot; they cannot exceed 6 feet in length without an intermediate air vent. Island sinks require a loop vent or an AAV (air-admittance valve) per IRC P3108; Deer Park Building Department accepts both, but the AAV must be shown on the plumbing plan with its model number and location (typically inside the cabinet, 6 inches above the flood-level rim of the sink). Gas lines for cooktops or wall ovens must be sized per IRC G2406; a cooktop is typically 1/2-inch line at 80,000 BTU, a wall oven 40,000 BTU on 1/2-inch. All new gas lines are pressure-tested at rough-in (50 PSI for 1 minute, no drop) and again at final. Shutoff valves are required within 6 feet of each appliance; they must be T-handle or lever-operated and accessible without moving the appliance. Water-supply lines for refrigerator ice-makers or instant-hot-water dispensers must be 3/8-inch copper or PEX with a shutoff valve and a check valve (to prevent backflow into the main supply); this detail is often omitted from submittals, causing rejections.
Structural changes—removing or moving walls—require load-bearing analysis if the wall is not clearly a partition wall. Deer Park Building Department follows IRC R602 definitions: a wall supporting ceiling, roof, or floor framing is load-bearing and requires an engineer's letter (signed and sealed by a Texas P.E.) showing beam size, bearing details, and connections. A 12-foot wall removal under a second-floor bedroom needs a beam (typically a built-up 2x12 or 2x14, or a steel I-beam); the engineer calculates load from roof + ceiling + floor above. Deer Park does not accept rule-of-thumb beam charts; the P.E.'s letter must cite calculations. If the wall is clearly non-load-bearing (one story, no framing above), a simple framing plan showing stud layout and blocking is sufficient—no engineer letter required. However, Deer Park Building Department often requires a framing inspection before drywall is hung to verify the plan matches field conditions. Plumbing walls (containing vent stacks, supply lines, or drains) can hide structural surprises; if a plumbing wall is to be relocated, the plumbing rough-in must be scheduled before the structural inspection, so the inspector can see that plumbing was properly rerouted and did not create a new venting problem. This sequencing is often missed, delaying the permit by 1–2 weeks.
Range-hood ducting to the exterior is mandatory if the hood exhausts more than 300 CFM; under-cabinet hoods typically exhaust 200–400 CFM, so a 6-inch or 8-inch duct running through the wall or ceiling to an exterior wall cap is the default. Deer Park Building Department requires a range-hood termination detail on the mechanical plan: the duct size, the wall or ceiling cavity routing, the exterior cap type (usually a spring-damper cap, not a simple trim ring), and the distance from the duct exit to the nearest operable window, door, or fresh-air intake (IRC M1502.1 requires 10 feet horizontally or 3 feet vertically above—this is a common surprise). If the ductwork passes through an attic, the plan must show insulation (to prevent condensation) and clearance from electrical wiring and HVAC ductwork. If the hood is a recirculating model (no duct to exterior, just a charcoal filter), no mechanical permit is needed—only electrical for the 120-volt circuit. However, recirculating hoods are prohibited in kitchens with gas cooktops (per IRC M1502.3) unless supplied by a dedicated ventilation system; Deer Park inspectors flag this regularly. Makeup-air requirements are not triggered in residential kitchens per the current TBC, but if a hood exceeds 400 CFM, some inspectors ask for comment; it is best to note makeup-air supply on the plan proactively.
Three Deer Park kitchen remodel (full) scenarios
Why Deer Park's small-appliance circuit and GFCI rules trip up so many kitchen remodels
Deer Park Building Department enforces the Texas Electrical Code (TEC) requirement for two dedicated 20-amp, 120-volt small-appliance branch circuits in kitchens per IRC E3702. These circuits power counter receptacles, the disposal, the dishwasher, and the trash compactor; they cannot serve lights, a refrigerator, or any other load. The rule exists because countertop appliances (toaster, microwave, coffee maker, blender, instant pot) draw 10–15 amps each; two simultaneous appliances on a single 15-amp circuit trigger a breaker trip. By requiring two 20-amp circuits, the code ensures that a 2,000-watt toaster and a 1,500-watt microwave (3,500 watts total, 29 amps at 120 volts) can run without overload. However, many homeowners and contractors assume one 20-amp circuit is enough because older homes were wired that way. Deer Park inspectors reject plans with a single small-appliance circuit, forcing resubmission and re-review—a 1–2 week delay. The second common mistake is counter-receptacle spacing: IRC E3801 and TEC 210.52(C)(1) require receptacles spaced no more than 48 inches apart, measured from the center of each outlet along the countertop edge. Corner counters are a trap: if two receptacles are placed at a corner, the straight-line distance along the edge is measured, not the diagonal. A corner with an 18-inch countertop on one side and a 20-inch side on the other does not allow a single receptacle at the corner to serve both sides; you need two receptacles (one on each side of the corner) to meet the 48-inch rule. Island counters are another frequent miss: if an island is 48 inches long, only one receptacle is technically required (at the center), but Deer Park inspectors often request two for practical usage. The electrical plan must show each receptacle location by dimension or by note ('Receptacle at 24" from corner').
GFCI protection adds another layer. IRC E3801 requires GFCI on all counter receptacles (within 18 inches of a sink), island receptacles, and any receptacle within 6 feet of a sink. GFCI can be supplied by a GFCI breaker in the panel or by a GFCI receptacle at the first outlet in the circuit. A common error is assuming a single GFCI receptacle protects downstream outlets; if the GFCI outlet is at the dishwasher (first in the run), and counter receptacles are downstream, the counter outlets are protected—but only if they are wired as 'load' terminals on the GFCI (not 'line'). Many electricians wire all outlets to the 'line' side, defeating protection. Deer Park inspectors verify by testing a push-button test on the GFCI or by checking the electrical plan. If a GFCI breaker is used, all outlets on that breaker are protected; the plan must show the breaker model (e.g., Eaton GFCI 20-amp) and a note: 'All receptacles on this breaker are GFCI-protected.' A third error is mixing GFCI outlets with non-GFCI outlets on the same circuit. If a 20-amp small-appliance circuit has four receptacles, and only two are marked 'GFCI' in the plan, the inspector will ask why the other two are not protected. Best practice: all counter receptacles are GFCI-protected, either via receptacle or breaker, and this is clearly noted on the electrical plan.
The practical implication: a kitchen electrical plan for Deer Park must include a detailed receptacle location drawing. A simple electrical riser diagram showing panel, breaker, and wire gauge is insufficient. The plan must show the kitchen from above with dimension lines to each receptacle, labels (e.g., 'DW' for dishwasher, 'D' for disposal, 'CR1' for counter receptacle 1), and a note specifying GFCI protection method. If you're using a GFCI breaker, label it on the panel schedule. If you're using GFCI receptacles, draw the receptacles differently (circle with a small 'G' inside) to distinguish them. Deer Park Building Department provides a kitchen receptacle checklist on its website; referencing it in your submittal memo is a way to show the inspector you've done your homework and reduces rejection risk.
Deer Park's lead-paint disclosure and Houston Black clay soil impacts on kitchen remodels
Any kitchen remodel in a Deer Park home built before 1978 triggers a lead-paint disclosure requirement. Texas Property Code § 5.006 mandates that sellers and contractors disclose the presence or likely presence of lead-based paint before work begins. The City of Deer Park enforces this through its building permits: if you submit a permit application for a kitchen remodel in a pre-1978 home, the permit acknowledgment must include a signed lead-paint disclosure form (EPA Form 8, 'Disclosure of Information on Lead-Based Paint and/or Lead-Based Paint Hazards'). Failure to disclose or to have the homeowner sign the form can result in federal penalties up to $20,000 per violation. Additionally, if any demolition or disturbance of surfaces occurs (removal of cabinets, countertops, trim, or drywall), EPA RRP (Renovation, Repair, and Painting) Rule certification is required for contractors. A certified renovator must be on-site during all lead-disturbing work, using containment barriers, HEPA-filtered vacuums, and lead-safe disposal methods. Deer Park does not issue a separate lead-abatement permit, but the building permit application must indicate that the contractor is EPA-certified and that lead-safe work practices will be followed. If the homeowner is the contractor (owner-builder), the homeowner is responsible for lead-safe practices; most owner-builders hire a certified contractor for the demolition phase to avoid liability. Lead-paint disclosure is not about the structural or electrical work; it is about protecting occupants (especially children under six) from lead dust during renovation. Any kitchen remodel in a pre-1978 Deer Park home should budget 1–2 weeks for lead disclosure coordination and 2–3 weeks for certified lead-safe demolition, adding $2,000–$5,000 to the project cost.
Deer Park sits in Harris County, which underlies Houston Black clay—an expansive soil that swells when wet and shrinks when dry. This soil condition rarely affects kitchen remodels directly, but it impacts the home's foundation and, indirectly, the plumbing system. If a kitchen remodel involves plumbing relocation or new lines, the routes must account for foundation movement. A drain line running under a load-bearing wall or near a foundation pier can shift if the soil moves, causing cracks or misalignment. Deer Park's Building Department does not require soil testing for kitchen remodels, but if the home has a history of foundation settling or plumbing problems (cracks in the drain line, slow drains), the contractor should route new plumbing away from high-stress areas. Additionally, Deer Park's groundwater table in some neighborhoods is high (within 5–10 feet of the surface), particularly in flood-prone areas near the San Jacinto River. If the kitchen is in a flood zone or a flood-prone area per FEMA maps, new electrical receptacles and outlets must be elevated above the expected flood level; this is enforced separately from the building permit (via floodplain management) but affects the kitchen remodel plan. A contractor should check the FEMA Flood Map for the property address before finalizing the electrical plan. If the property is in a flood zone, Deer Park's Development Services Department (which oversees floodplain compliance) must review the permit as well, adding 1–2 weeks to the plan-review timeline.
Soil and drainage considerations also affect range-hood venting. An 8-inch duct carrying warm, moist air to an exterior wall termination can create condensation inside the duct if it travels through an unconditioned attic. In Deer Park's warm, humid climate (coastal air during summer, moisture from nearby Galveston Bay), insulation of the range-hood duct is mandatory to prevent water accumulation inside the duct, which can cause mold growth or duct collapse. The mechanical plan must specify duct insulation (typically R-6 or R-8 fiberglass wrap) and a condensate drain if the duct has a low spot or runs horizontally for more than 6 feet. A small-diameter (1/4-inch) drain line from the lowest point of the duct back to the kitchen sink via a trap ensures any condensate drains away rather than pooling in the duct. This detail is often overlooked, but Deer Park inspectors increasingly flag it as a mold-prevention measure.
Contact Deer Park City Hall for current address; historically at Deer Park, TX 77536
Phone: (281) 478-7000 or search 'Deer Park TX building permit phone' to confirm current number | Deer Park Permit Portal (search 'Deer Park TX building permit online' or visit www.deerparktx.gov)
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM (verify locally for holidays/closures)
Common questions
If I'm just replacing my kitchen cabinets and countertops in the same footprint, do I need a permit?
No. Cabinet and countertop replacement without any electrical, plumbing, or structural changes is cosmetic and exempt from permitting. If the existing sink, dishwasher, and range remain in the same location and on the same circuits and gas line, no permit is needed. However, if your home was built before 1978 and you are removing old cabinets (disturbing surfaces), a lead-paint disclosure is required before work begins, though no building permit is needed. If the new cabinets or countertop require modifications to the wall (e.g., removal of tile backsplash that contains asbestos), consult Deer Park Building Department to confirm the disturbance is not classified as renovation work under EPA RRP rules.
My kitchen island will have a sink. What's the most common permit issue Deer Park inspectors flag?
The most common issue is the lack of an air-admittance valve (AAV) on the plumbing plan. An island sink requires a vent; if you cannot run a vent stack vertically through the island to the roof, an AAV (Studor Vent-A-Matic or similar) must be installed in the island cabinet 6 inches above the sink's flood rim. The plumbing plan must show the AAV model number, location, and the manufacturer's specification sheet. Many contractors assume an AAV is optional or try to route the vent horizontally under the island, which violates IRC P3108. Deer Park Building Department will reject any plumbing plan that omits the AAV detail. Additionally, the sink drain must slope 1/4 inch per foot from the sink trap to the main vent stack; if the island is far from the vent (more than 6 feet), you need an intermediate air vent or a second AAV. Have your plumber submit the plan or consult Deer Park's plumbing plan checklist.
I'm removing a wall between my kitchen and dining room. Do I need an engineer's letter?
Only if the wall is load-bearing (supporting roof, ceiling, or floor framing above). In a one-story home, if the wall runs parallel to the floor joists (or if there is no framing directly above), it is non-load-bearing and does not require an engineer's letter. However, Deer Park Building Department requires you to submit either a signed and stamped engineer's letter stating 'this wall is non-load-bearing per IRC R602,' or a detailed framing plan clearly showing the home's joist direction and confirming no framing rests on the wall. Most inspectors prefer the engineer's letter for clarity. If the wall is load-bearing, you must provide a P.E.'s design for a beam (sized to carry the load above) and details for bearing on the kitchen and dining-room sides. The beam is typically installed before the wall is removed (temporary posts support it during installation). Expect 1–2 weeks for the engineer to prepare the letter and beam design, adding $500–$1,500 to the project cost.
My new kitchen cooktop is gas. What gas-line work requires a permit?
Any relocation, installation, or modification of a gas line requires a plumbing (gas) permit in Deer Park. If you are replacing an existing electric range with a new gas cooktop, the gas supply line must be sized per IRC G2406 (typically 1/2-inch copper or black-iron pipe for an 80,000-BTU cooktop). The line must have a shutoff valve within 6 feet of the cooktop, a pressure test (50 PSI for 1 minute, no drop), and a cap on any unused outlet. The plumbing plan must show the gas-line route, size, and materials. Installation of the cooktop itself (sitting on the counter, bolting in place) does not require a permit, but the gas connection does. If the cooktop already exists and you are not moving the gas line, no permit is needed. However, if you're upgrading from a lower-BTU cooktop to a higher-BTU model (e.g., 40,000 BTU to 100,000 BTU), confirm that the existing gas line and house regulator can handle the increase; your plumber will do this during the plan phase.
Do I need a permit to install a new range hood if my old one is still in the same location?
If you are replacing an existing range hood with a new one of the same or lower CFM (cubic feet per minute) and the duct does not change, no permit is needed—this is an appliance replacement. However, if you are upgrading to a higher-CFM hood (e.g., 300 CFM to 600 CFM), the existing duct may be undersized (too small for the new airflow), and you must upgrade the duct per IRC M1502. An upgrade may require routing through walls, ceilings, or the exterior, which requires a mechanical permit. Additionally, if the old hood was recirculating (no exterior duct, just a charcoal filter) and the new hood is ducted, you are installing a new duct to the exterior, which triggers a mechanical permit. If you are installing a gas cooktop for the first time and need a new range hood (previously there was no cooktop), a mechanical permit is always required.
How much does a kitchen remodel permit cost in Deer Park?
Permit fees in Deer Park vary by permit type and project valuation. A simple cosmetic refresh (cabinets + countertops, no structural/MEP changes) is exempt and costs $0. A moderate remodel with plumbing and electrical changes (island sink, new circuits, GFCI) typically costs $650–$1,100 across all three permits (Building $250–$400, Plumbing $200–$350, Electrical $200–$350). A major remodel with wall removal, gas cooktop, new hood duct, and sub-panel can cost $1,300–$2,150. Fees are calculated as a percentage of the estimated project cost (typically 0.5–1.5%) or as a flat rate per permit type; Deer Park's fee schedule is posted on its website. Always confirm current fees when you file; Deer Park updates them annually.
How long does plan review take for a kitchen permit in Deer Park?
Plan review for a kitchen remodel in Deer Park typically takes 3–6 weeks depending on complexity. A simple plumbing + electrical change (island sink, new circuits) usually clears in 3–4 weeks if the plan is complete and correct. A structural change (wall removal) or a complex mechanical upgrade (sub-panel + new hood duct) can take 5–6 weeks or longer if there is a back-and-forth on engineer's letter or load calculations. Deer Park requires plans to be submitted electronically through its permit portal; submittals that are incomplete (missing GFCI detail, no AAV spec, no gas-line sizing) are returned with a rejection notice, triggering a 5–7 day waiting period before resubmission and a second review cycle. To avoid delays, use Deer Park's Kitchen Remodel Checklist (available on the city website) and have your contractor review it before filing. If you hire a professional plan-prep service or use a design-build contractor, the resubmission rate drops significantly.
Can I do the kitchen remodel work myself (owner-builder), or do I need a licensed contractor?
Texas law and Deer Park code allow owner-builders to obtain permits for work on their own, owner-occupied home. However, certain trades must be licensed by the Texas Licensing Board. Electrical work (new circuits, outlets, sub-panel) must be performed by a licensed electrician; a homeowner cannot self-perform electrical changes on a permit application. Plumbing work (gas, water supply, drain) also requires a licensed plumber. Structural framing (wall removal, new headers) can be done by the owner or a licensed contractor, though Deer Park inspectors often require a professional framing inspection before drywall. In practice, most kitchen remodels require contractors for electrical and plumbing; the owner can handle demolition, cabinet installation, painting, and finishing if they are comfortable with those trades. If you hire a general contractor to oversee the project, the GC must be licensed if they are acting as the prime contractor; if the GC is coordinating licensed subs, licensing may vary. Deer Park is relaxed on owner-builder electrical and plumbing if the owner is present during inspection and the work meets code, but confirm this before starting. It is safest to hire licensed electricians and plumbers and reserve owner-builder work for framing, finish, and cleanup.
What happens during the rough-in inspection for my kitchen remodel plumbing?
Rough-in inspection for plumbing occurs after the sink drain, supply lines, and vent are installed but before drywall is hung, so the inspector can visually verify the work. The inspector checks the sink trap (P-trap) for a proper 1/4-inch slope toward the main drain, the trap arm (horizontal run from trap to vent) for the correct slope and length (no more than 6 feet without intermediate vent), the vent stack routing (continuous rise to the roof, no dips or low spots), and any AAV installation (correct location above the sink rim, model visible). For island sinks, the AAV is tested by removing the cap and verifying it opens when water runs (indicating proper air admission). Water supply lines are visually inspected for proper sizing (1/2-inch to faucet, 3/8-inch to dishwasher/ice-maker), support clips (every 4–6 feet), and shut-off valves. If you are adding a new dishwasher or disposal, the rough-in ensures the drain line is properly supported and sloped. Any gas-line changes are pressure-tested (50 PSI for 1 minute) during rough-in. The inspector will mark any issues (loose vent, improper slope, unsupported lines) with a note; you have 5–7 days to correct and request a re-inspection. Common failures: forgetting the AAV, improper trap slope, unsupported PEX, and missing shut-off valves.
If I'm in a flood zone, are there any additional kitchen remodel requirements?
Yes. If your Deer Park property is in a FEMA flood zone (A, AE, or V zone per the Flood Hazard Boundary Map), new electrical outlets, switches, and service panels must be elevated above the base flood elevation (BFE) or at least 1 foot above the highest adjacent grade, whichever is higher. Typically, outlets and switches are relocated to upper walls or second-floor locations if the kitchen is in a ground-floor flood zone. Plumbing fixtures (sinks, drains) can remain at grade, but water-heating equipment and HVAC systems must be elevated or waterproofed to prevent damage. Deer Park's Development Services Department (floodplain management) reviews permits for flood-zone properties before the building permit is issued; this adds 1–2 weeks to plan review. Get a copy of your property's FEMA Flood Map (available on FEMA's Flood Map Service Center website) and confirm your flood zone status before you plan electrical or mechanical work. If you're unsure, contact Deer Park's Development Services; they can confirm flood status and elevation requirements for your address.
More permit guides
National guides for the most-asked homeowner permit projects. Each goes deep on code thresholds, common rejections, fees, and timeline.
Roof Replacement
Layer count, deck inspection, ice dam protection, hurricane straps.
Deck
Attached vs freestanding, footings, frost depth, ledger, height/area thresholds.
Kitchen Remodel
Plumbing, electrical, gas line, ventilation, structural changes.
Solar Panels
Structural review, electrical interconnection, fire setbacks, AHJ approval.
Fence
Height/material limits, sight triangles, pool barriers, setbacks.
HVAC
Equipment changeouts, ductwork, combustion air, ventilation, IMC sections.
Bathroom Remodel
Plumbing rough-in, ventilation, electrical (GFCI/AFCI), waterproofing.
Electrical Work
Subpermits, NEC sections, panel upgrades, GFCI/AFCI, who can pull.
Basement Finishing
Egress, ceiling height, electrical, moisture barriers, occupancy rules.
Room Addition
Foundation, footings, framing, electrical/plumbing extensions, structural.
Accessory Dwelling Units (ADU)
When permits are required, code thresholds, JADU vs ADU, electrical/plumbing/parking rules.
New Windows
Egress, header sizing, structural cuts, fire-rating, energy code.
Heat Pump
Electrical capacity, refrigerant handling, condensate, IECC compliance.
Hurricane Retrofit
Roof straps, garage door bracing, opening protection, FL OIR product approval.
Pool
Barriers, alarms, electrical bonding, plumbing, separation distances.
Fireplace & Wood Stove
Hearth, clearances, chimney, gas line work, NFPA 211.
Sump Pump
Discharge location, electrical, backup options, plumbing tie-in.
Mini-Split
Refrigerant lines, condensate, electrical disconnect, line set sleeve.