Research by DoINeedAPermit Research Team · Updated May 2026
The Short Answer
Any full kitchen remodel involving wall changes, plumbing relocation, new electrical circuits, gas-line work, or range-hood venting requires permits from the City of DeLand Building Department. Cosmetic-only work (cabinets, countertops, appliances on existing circuits) is exempt.
DeLand enforces Florida Building Code (currently the 2020 edition, with local amendments) and requires separate building, plumbing, and electrical permits for kitchen work that touches structural, mechanical, or code-compliance systems. A distinctive feature of DeLand permitting is that the city uses a phased plan-review process: you submit building + plumbing + electrical simultaneously, but the city's building division reviews structural/framing first, and plumbing and electrical get their own separate reviews with overlapping timelines. This means your full kitchen can take 4–6 weeks to clear all three departments if revisions are needed. DeLand also sits in a flood-prone region (Volusia County), so if your kitchen is in a flood zone, elevation and flood-venting details may be required on the plan. Additionally, kitchens in pre-1978 homes trigger lead-paint disclosure requirements under Florida law, even if lead is not disturbed—the disclosure must be in the permit file. The city's online permit portal (accessible through the City of DeLand website) allows digital submission of plans, but many DeLand homeowners still file in person at City Hall to expedite initial intake.

What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)

DeLand full kitchen remodel permits — the key details

The City of DeLand Building Department requires permits for any kitchen remodel that involves structural, plumbing, electrical, or mechanical work. This includes wall removal or relocation (even non-load-bearing), any plumbing-fixture relocation (sink, dishwasher, island sink), any new electrical circuit or outlet, gas-line modifications, range-hood venting to the exterior, or changes to window/door openings. The trigger is not the overall scope of the kitchen—it's the specific systems touched. You'll submit one building permit application and typically two separate sub-permits: one for plumbing and one for electrical. If you're adding a gas cooktop or converting from electric, a third mechanical permit may be required. DeLand Building Code, based on the 2020 Florida Building Code, mandates that all work comply with IRC standards for kitchens, particularly IRC E3702 (small-appliance branch circuits), IRC E3801 (GFCI outlets), IRC P2722 (kitchen drain design), and IRC G2406 (gas appliance connections). The city's plan-review division will flag missing details early: two dedicated 20-amp small-appliance branch circuits (shown on the electrical plan), GFCI protection on all countertop receptacles (spaced no more than 48 inches apart), proper kitchen-sink trap and vent arm routing (plumbing plan), and if a range hood is vented to the exterior, a duct termination detail showing the wall cap and type of duct (rigid or flex). Load-bearing wall removal requires a structural engineer's letter and beam sizing; DeLand will reject any load-bearing wall plan without this documentation.

DeLand's permitting process is designed around a three-department review loop that typically runs 4–6 weeks if no revisions are needed. You submit plans (digital or in person) to the Building Department intake desk; the building plan reviewer checks structural, opening sizes, and wall status first, while simultaneously the plumbing and electrical reviewers examine their respective systems. If the building reviewer flags a load-bearing wall removal that lacks engineering, the permit is held until you provide the engineer's stamp. Plumbing typically requires detailed trap-arm and vent routing on an isometric drawing; many DeLand homeowners underestimate this step and resubmit twice. Electrical must show the two 20-amp small-appliance circuits, a 15-amp general-purpose circuit for lighting, GFCI outlets, and any dedicated circuits for hardwired appliances (dishwasher, disposer, range, microwave). The city also requires a note on the electrical plan acknowledging that all work complies with the National Electrical Code (NEC) and Florida Administrative Code 62-34. Once approved, you'll receive three separate permits; inspections happen in sequence: rough plumbing, rough electrical, framing (if walls were moved), drywall (if walls were moved), and a final inspection. Each inspection must pass before the next trade can proceed. Most DeLand contractors schedule these staggered over 2–3 weeks during construction.

Fees for a full kitchen remodel in DeLand depend on the project valuation—the city charges a base building permit fee plus per-square-foot or per-system fees for plumbing and electrical. A typical mid-range kitchen remodel ($30,000–$50,000 in labor and materials) generates a building permit fee of $200–$400, a plumbing permit of $150–$300, and an electrical permit of $150–$300, for a total permit cost of $500–$1,000. High-end kitchens ($75,000+) or those involving major structural changes (load-bearing wall removal, island addition) can push total permit fees to $1,200–$1,500. The city does not charge separate inspection fees; inspections are included in the permit. If your home was built before 1978, Florida law (Chapter 404 Florida Statutes) requires you to provide the contractor and any future purchaser with a lead-paint disclosure form; this must be filed with the building permit. DeLand's online permit portal allows you to track the status of your permits in real time, and the city typically emails progress updates when a permit is approved or flagged for revision.

DeLand's location in Volusia County introduces flood-zone considerations that affect kitchen design. If your address falls within a Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) flood zone (check the Volusia County flood map online), your kitchen must be either elevated above the base-flood elevation or designed with flood vents if it's in a basement or lowest-level enclosed space. The building code also requires that kitchen mechanical systems (water heater, HVAC ducts if routed through the kitchen) not be installed in a flood zone below the elevated line. Additionally, DeLand summers are extremely hot and humid (average 90°F, 75% humidity); the building code requires proper ductwork insulation and sealing for any range-hood vent that runs through unconditioned attic space—undersized or leaky ducts can cause condensation and mold in the attic. Finally, Florida law requires that all work be performed by a licensed contractor unless you are the owner-builder under Florida Statutes § 489.103(7). Owner-builder status allows you to pull permits and perform work yourself, but you must sign an affidavit with the permit application stating that you are the property owner and will not sell or lease the property for one year after completion; this is strictly enforced and misrepresentation is a felony. Many DeLand homeowners misunderstand this rule and assume they can hire unlicensed workers; the city will stop work and fine you if a plumbing or electrical contractor on-site cannot produce a valid Florida license.

Timeline and practical next steps: Contact the City of DeLand Building Department (phone and hours listed in the contact card below) to confirm current accepted submission methods—the city prefers digital plans via its online portal, but in-person submission is still available. Prepare detailed plans showing all three systems (building, plumbing, electrical); hire a designer or architect if your scope includes wall removal or structural changes. Budget 1–2 weeks for plan preparation, 4–6 weeks for review and revisions, 2–4 weeks for construction, and 1 week for final inspections and certificate of occupancy (if your permit category requires it—many kitchen permits do not require a full CO, only individual inspections). Plan-review rejections in DeLand most commonly stem from missing small-appliance circuit details, improper GFCI outlet placement, insufficient range-hood duct termination drawings, and load-bearing walls submitted without an engineer's stamp. If you're working with a contractor, confirm that they are licensed (verify via the Florida Department of Business and Professional Regulation website) and that they will handle permit applications and inspections as part of their contract. Finally, do not begin work until all three permits are issued and you have received your first inspection notice; working without permits in DeLand can result in stop-work orders, fines, and difficulty obtaining a final certificate.

Three DeLand kitchen remodel (full) scenarios

Scenario A
Cabinet and countertop swap, same appliance locations, paint, and new flooring—DeLand bungalow
You're replacing the cabinets, countertops, and flooring in your 1950s DeLand bungalow kitchen, keeping the sink, stove, and dishwasher in their current locations. You're also painting the walls and repainting the ceiling. The sink stays in the same spot, no plumbing is moved, no new circuits are added (the stove is still electric on the same 240V circuit, and the dishwasher stays plugged into the same outlet under the counter). No walls are removed or modified. This is a purely cosmetic kitchen update and does NOT require a permit from the City of DeLand. Cosmetic work—cabinetry, countertops, flooring, paint, and appliance replacement on existing circuits—is exempt under Florida Building Code Section 1.2.2 (alterations of a minor nature). However, if the kitchen was built before 1978, you will still need to provide a lead-paint disclosure form to any contractor you hire and keep it in your records; this is not a permit requirement but a legal disclosure requirement. Estimated total cost: $15,000–$30,000 (labor and materials), $0 in permit fees. Timeline: 2–4 weeks of construction, no inspections required, no certificate needed. One note: if you discover during demolition that your existing electrical outlets under the counter are not GFCI-protected, you are not required to upgrade them under the cosmetic-exempt rule, but many DeLand homeowners choose to add GFCI protection retroactively as a safety measure (this can be done without a permit by simply replacing the outlet with a GFCI-outlet or plugging a GFCI power strip into the existing outlet).
No permit required (cosmetic work only) | Lead-paint disclosure recommended (pre-1978 homes) | Same appliance locations | Existing circuits | Total cost $15,000–$30,000 | Permit fees $0
Scenario B
Island addition with sink, new gas cooktop, range hood with exterior vent, two new 20A circuits—DeLand home, 1,500 sq ft kitchen
You're adding a 4x8-foot island to your DeLand kitchen with a second sink, relocating the gas cooktop from the range to the island cooktop, adding a 36-inch range hood with an exterior duct vent through the wall, and installing two new 20-amp small-appliance branch circuits plus a dedicated 15-amp circuit for the range hood. This project triggers four separate permit requirements: (1) building permit for the island structure (framing, electrical rough-in), (2) plumbing permit for the relocated sink and second trap-arm, (3) electrical permit for the two 20A circuits, GFCI outlets, and 15A hood circuit, and (4) mechanical permit for the gas cooktop relocation and range-hood duct termination. You will submit building, plumbing, electrical, and mechanical permits simultaneously to the City of DeLand Building Department. The building plan must show the island foundation (whether it sits on the existing floor or is attached to a reinforced base), the framing detail, and the electrical rough-in locations. The plumbing plan must show the new sink trap, the vent-arm routing (minimum 6 inches above the flood-rim of the sink, per IRC P2722), and how the drain ties into the existing kitchen-drain line. The electrical plan must clearly show two separate 20-amp small-appliance circuits (one for countertop receptacles on the island, one for the general kitchen countertop), a 15-amp lighting circuit, a 20-amp dedicated circuit for the dishwasher (if you have one), and a separate circuit for the range hood (typically 15A). All countertop receptacles on the island must be GFCI-protected and spaced no more than 48 inches apart (per NEC 210.8). The gas-line plan must show the new gas line routing from the main supply to the island cooktop, with pressure-test points and shutoff valve location (per IRC G2406). The range-hood duct plan must show the exterior wall penetration, the duct type (usually rigid 6-inch galvanized steel or flex aluminum), and the exterior wall cap detail (must be a backdraft damper cap, not a simple opening). Plan review will take 4–6 weeks; most rejections involve missing duct-cap details or improper GFCI placement. Once approved, you'll receive four separate permits. Inspections occur in this sequence: rough plumbing (after island drain rough-in), rough electrical (after wiring is in but before drywall), gas rough-in (before drywall or appliance connection), framing (if island is framed separately), drywall, and final. Estimated project cost: $35,000–$60,000 (island cabinetry, appliances, labor). Permit fees: building $300–$500, plumbing $200–$350, electrical $200–$350, mechanical $150–$250, total $850–$1,450. Timeline: 4–6 weeks plan review, 3–4 weeks construction, 1–2 weeks inspection scheduling and walk-throughs.
Building permit required (island structure) | Plumbing permit (second sink, trap-arm detail required) | Electrical permit (two 20A circuits, GFCI on island, 15A hood circuit) | Mechanical permit (gas cooktop relocation, hood duct) | Exterior duct cap detail mandatory | Load-bearing evaluation if island attached to floor joist | Total cost $35,000–$60,000 | Permit fees $850–$1,450
Scenario C
Load-bearing wall removed to open galley into dining room, new beam sized by engineer, relocation of sink and dishwasher, new island with cooktop vent—pre-1978 DeLand home
You are removing a load-bearing wall between the galley kitchen and the dining room to create an open-concept space, which requires installing a structural beam (likely 2 LVL or steel I-beam sized by an engineer). You're also relocating the kitchen sink and dishwasher along the new wall opening and adding a small island with a gas cooktop and range hood. This is the most permit-intensive kitchen scenario and will require a structural engineer's involvement. The City of DeLand will not issue a building permit for load-bearing wall removal without a structural engineer's letter signed and sealed by a licensed Florida PE (Professional Engineer), complete with beam sizing, bearing-point calculations, and confirmation that the new beam will support the load above (roof, second floor, mechanical systems). You must submit this engineer's letter with the building permit application; if you omit it, the city will issue a Notice of Non-Compliance and hold the permit pending submission. Once the engineer's letter is in hand, the building plan must show the beam location, size, and bearing points, the removal of the existing wall studs and header, the new header height and rough opening, and all electrical and plumbing rough-in locations around the opening. The plumbing plan must show the relocation of the sink trap and vent-arm (new routing to meet IRC P2722 requirements), the dishwasher drain connection, and how these systems tie into the existing kitchen and main drain lines—this often requires extending plumbing lines under the new opening. The electrical plan must show how existing circuits serving the wall will be rerouted (no electrical lines are left to dead-end in the removed wall) and must include all new circuits for the island cooktop, range hood, small-appliance receptacles, and lighting. Additionally, because your home is pre-1978, you must provide a lead-paint disclosure form with the permit application per Florida Chapter 404 (lead-paint inspection and notification law); the disclosure must state that the home may contain lead-based paint and that renovation activities may disturb it. DeLand's building department will require a lead-safe work practices plan if the engineer or architect notes that the wall removal may disturb paint; this typically means wet-wiping all dust, using HEPA filters, and proper waste disposal (cost $500–$1,500 for a full plan). Plan review for a load-bearing wall removal typically takes 5–7 weeks because the structural review is thorough—the city's reviewer will verify the engineer's calculations against the load, the bearing capacity of the supports, and proper anchorage. Rejection reasons include incorrect beam size, inadequate bearing length (typically minimum 2–3 inches on wood or 4 inches on concrete per code), missing calculations, or engineer's letter not sealed by a Florida-licensed PE. Once approved, you'll receive building, plumbing, electrical, and potentially mechanical permits. Inspections include structural (beam installation and bearing verification), rough plumbing, rough electrical, gas rough-in (if applicable), drywall, and final. Estimated project cost: $60,000–$100,000+ (structural beam materials and installation, plumbing relocation, electrical rerouting, new cabinetry, appliances, labor). Permit fees: building $500–$800, plumbing $250–$400, electrical $250–$400, mechanical $150–$250, structural review premium (if applicable) $100–$200, total $1,250–$2,050. Engineer fees: $1,500–$3,000 (separate from permit fees). Timeline: 2–4 weeks to obtain engineer's letter, 5–7 weeks plan review, 4–6 weeks construction, 1–2 weeks inspections. One critical note: load-bearing wall removal requires that you obtain a building-permit final inspection sign-off and a Certificate of Completion from the City of DeLand before the work is considered code-compliant; this Certificate is mandatory for future resale and mortgage refinance.
Structural engineer letter required (PE-sealed) | Building permit (load-bearing wall removal, beam sizing) | Plumbing permit (sink and dishwasher relocation, vent-arm routing) | Electrical permit (circuit rerouting, island circuits, new receptacles) | Mechanical permit (gas cooktop, hood vent) | Lead-paint disclosure and risk assessment (pre-1978 homes) | 5–7 week plan review | Total project cost $60,000–$100,000+ | Permit fees $1,250–$2,050 | Engineer fees $1,500–$3,000 (separate)

Every project is different.

Get your exact answer →
Takes 60 seconds · Personalized to your address

Small-appliance branch circuits and GFCI protection in DeLand kitchens

IRC E3702.1 mandates that kitchens must have at least two dedicated 20-amp small-appliance branch circuits, and IRC E3801.4 requires GFCI protection on all 125-volt, 15- and 20-amp receptacles within 6 feet of the sink. DeLand's electrical plan reviewers scrutinize this detail more rigorously than most Volusia County jurisdictions because kitchen fires and shock hazards are common insurance claims in high-humidity South Florida. When you submit your electrical plan, the city wants to see two separate 20-amp circuits clearly labeled—one for the countertop receptacles and one for built-in appliances (dishwasher, garbage disposer, microwave). Many homeowners and contractors make the mistake of thinking a single 20-amp circuit can serve the whole countertop; this violates IRC E3702. Additionally, every countertop receptacle on the island and perimeter must be GFCI-protected and spaced no more than 48 inches apart (per NEC 210.8(A)(6)). If your kitchen island is more than 8 feet long, you'll need at least two GFCI receptacles on the island alone.

DeLand's humid climate makes GFCI protection even more critical than in drier inland regions. Moisture intrusion from condensation and occasional kitchen spray can trigger nuisance tripping on older GFCI outlets, so modern plans should specify GFCI circuit breakers at the panel rather than individual GFCI receptacles; this provides whole-circuit GFCI protection and fewer nuisance trips. The city's electrical reviewer will not flag this as a rejection, but it's a best-practice note. When the electrical inspector performs the rough inspection, they will verify that all receptacles are properly grounded (using a tester), that GFCI outlets are functioning (using the test button), and that outlet spacing complies with the plan. If the inspector finds a non-GFCI receptacle within 6 feet of the sink, the inspection will fail and you'll be required to install GFCI protection before re-inspection.

Range-hood venting and flood-zone considerations in DeLand kitchens

If you're adding or relocating a range hood with exterior venting in DeLand, the duct must terminate outside the building envelope through the nearest exterior wall, and the termination cap must be a backdraft damper cap (not a simple open duct or louvered vent). IRC M1505.2 specifies that range-hood ducts must be at least 6 inches in diameter for a 36-inch hood and must be straight and smooth-walled (rigid galvanized steel or seamless flex aluminum); the duct cannot have more than two 90-degree elbows without a booster fan. DeLand's building reviewers require a detailed drawing showing the duct routing, the wall penetration, the duct diameter, and the exterior cap type. Many DeLand homes have the kitchen on the second floor or in an upper story due to flood-zone elevation; if the duct runs through unconditioned attic space, it must be insulated (minimum R-6 or equivalent) to prevent condensation and mold in the attic—this is a common failure point in humid Florida kitchens. The city's mechanical reviewer will flag an uninsulated attic duct as a deficiency and require revision.

If your DeLand kitchen sits in a FEMA flood zone (check the Volusia County FEMA flood map), the range-hood duct penetration through the exterior wall and the exhaust cap must be sealed against water entry (per Florida Building Code Section 603.5). Additionally, if the duct runs below the base-flood elevation, it must be vented above the flood level or installed with a backflow valve to prevent flood water from backing up into the kitchen through the hood duct. The building plan must note the flood-zone status and the flood-elevation compliance measures. If you're unsure whether your kitchen is in a flood zone, contact the City of DeLand Planning or Building Department and request a flood-zone determination letter; this typically costs $50–$100 and takes 1–2 weeks. Including this letter with your permit application can prevent rejections due to missing flood information.

City of DeLand Building Department
City of DeLand, 200 North Stone Street, DeLand, FL 32720
Phone: (386) 626-7700 | https://www.deland.org (Building and Zoning Department page; online permit portal accessible via City website)
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM–5:00 PM (Eastern Time); closed municipal holidays

Common questions

Can I do a full kitchen remodel without a permit if I hire a licensed contractor?

No. A licensed contractor is required to pull and work under permits in DeLand, but their license does not exempt the project from permit requirements. Any kitchen work that involves structural, plumbing, electrical, or mechanical changes triggers permits, regardless of who performs the work. The contractor is responsible for obtaining permits as part of their scope; if they do not, the work is illegal and subject to stop-work orders and fines. Verify that your contractor provides a copy of the issued permits before they begin work.

What if I'm an owner-builder? Can I avoid the permit process?

No. Owner-builder status under Florida Statutes § 489.103(7) allows you to pull permits yourself and perform your own work, but it does not exempt you from the permitting process. You must still submit plans, obtain permits from the City of DeLand, and pass all required inspections. As an owner-builder, you sign an affidavit stating that you are the property owner and will not sell the property for one year; violation of this affidavit is a felony. Owner-builder status is intended for owner-occupants who wish to self-perform, not to avoid regulations.

How long does it take to get a kitchen permit approved in DeLand?

Standard plan review takes 4–6 weeks from submission. If revisions are needed (missing details, engineer's letter, flood-zone information), add 1–2 weeks per revision cycle. Expedited review (5–7 business days) is available for an additional fee of $200–$400, but is rarely used for kitchens. Once approved, you'll receive three separate permits (building, plumbing, electrical) and can begin work immediately. The entire process from submission to final inspection sign-off typically takes 8–12 weeks.

Do I need to disclose lead paint when I remodel a 1975 kitchen?

Yes. Florida Chapter 404 and federal EPA regulations require that you provide a lead-paint disclosure to any contractor or future buyer if the home was built before 1978. This disclosure must be provided before work begins and must state that the home may contain lead-based paint. You are not required to perform lead testing, but you must inform all parties. If your contractor suspects lead during demolition, they are required to stop work and consult a lead-certified professional. DeLand's building permit application requires you to acknowledge lead-paint disclosure on the form; failure to do so can result in permit denial.

What is the most common reason a DeLand kitchen permit gets rejected?

Missing small-appliance branch circuit details or improper GFCI outlet placement on the electrical plan. The second most common issue is incomplete range-hood duct termination drawings (exterior cap detail not shown). The third is load-bearing wall removal submitted without a structural engineer's signed letter. To avoid rejections, have a licensed electrician prepare the electrical plan and a structural engineer review any wall-removal scope before submission.

Can I start my kitchen remodel before my permit is approved?

No. Beginning work before all permits are issued is illegal in DeLand and will result in a stop-work order, fines of $100–$500, and mandatory double permit fees. The city's building inspector may visit your home if a neighbor complains or if the city suspects unpermitted work. Wait until you receive written confirmation that all three permits (building, plumbing, electrical) are approved and you have received your first inspection notice before any work begins.

What happens at the rough electrical and rough plumbing inspections?

The rough electrical inspection occurs after all wiring is in place but before drywall is closed. The inspector verifies that circuits are properly labeled, GFCI outlets are functioning (tested with the test button), outlets are correctly spaced and grounded, and all work matches the approved electrical plan. The rough plumbing inspection occurs after drain and water-supply lines are run but before concealment; the inspector checks that traps are properly pitched (1/4 inch drop per foot), vent arms are at the correct height above the sink flood rim (6 inches minimum), and all connections are tight. If either inspection fails, you must correct the deficiency and call for re-inspection (no additional fee, but 3–5 days delay).

Do I need a mechanical permit for my gas cooktop and range hood?

Yes, if you are relocating, installing, or modifying a gas cooktop. Gas appliance installations require a mechanical permit under IRC G2400 (gas appliance connections). The plumbing department typically handles mechanical permits in DeLand. The range hood itself may require a mechanical permit if it is a ducted hood (exterior vent); a ductless recirculating hood does not require mechanical review but may trigger electrical review for the 240V fan motor (if applicable). Confirm with the city whether your specific hood requires mechanical or electrical permitting.

What if my kitchen is in a flood zone? Do I need extra permits or inspections?

If your kitchen is in a FEMA flood zone, your building plan must show the base-flood elevation and confirm that all mechanical systems (water heater, HVAC) are elevated above it or protected from water intrusion. Range-hood ducts that penetrate an exterior wall below the flood level must have a backflow valve or be rerouted above the flood level. The building reviewer will require a flood-elevation statement on the plan and may request a flood-zone determination letter from the city. This does not require an additional permit, but it does add detail to the plan-review process and may extend review time by 1–2 weeks.

Can I pull a building permit but skip the electrical permit if I hire a licensed electrician?

No. Electrical work, even if performed by a licensed electrician, requires a separate electrical permit issued by the City of DeLand. The permit is tied to the project location and scope, not to the contractor's license. Skipping the electrical permit means the work is not inspected and code-compliant, and your homeowner insurance may deny claims related to unpermitted electrical work. Always pull all required permits (building, plumbing, electrical) before any work begins.

Disclaimer: This guide is based on research conducted in May 2026 using publicly available sources. Always verify current kitchen remodel (full) permit requirements with the City of DeLand Building Department before starting your project.

Keep researching

Kitchen Remodel (Full) permits in other Florida cities
Other permits in DeLand
Kitchen Remodel (Full) permits in popular cities
Browse all

More permit guides

National guides for the most-asked homeowner permit projects. Each goes deep on code thresholds, common rejections, fees, and timeline.

Roof Replacement

Layer count, deck inspection, ice dam protection, hurricane straps.

Deck

Attached vs freestanding, footings, frost depth, ledger, height/area thresholds.

Kitchen Remodel

Plumbing, electrical, gas line, ventilation, structural changes.

Solar Panels

Structural review, electrical interconnection, fire setbacks, AHJ approval.

Fence

Height/material limits, sight triangles, pool barriers, setbacks.

HVAC

Equipment changeouts, ductwork, combustion air, ventilation, IMC sections.

Bathroom Remodel

Plumbing rough-in, ventilation, electrical (GFCI/AFCI), waterproofing.

Electrical Work

Subpermits, NEC sections, panel upgrades, GFCI/AFCI, who can pull.

Basement Finishing

Egress, ceiling height, electrical, moisture barriers, occupancy rules.

Room Addition

Foundation, footings, framing, electrical/plumbing extensions, structural.

Accessory Dwelling Units (ADU)

When permits are required, code thresholds, JADU vs ADU, electrical/plumbing/parking rules.

New Windows

Egress, header sizing, structural cuts, fire-rating, energy code.

Heat Pump

Electrical capacity, refrigerant handling, condensate, IECC compliance.

Hurricane Retrofit

Roof straps, garage door bracing, opening protection, FL OIR product approval.

Pool

Barriers, alarms, electrical bonding, plumbing, separation distances.

Fireplace & Wood Stove

Hearth, clearances, chimney, gas line work, NFPA 211.

Sump Pump

Discharge location, electrical, backup options, plumbing tie-in.

Mini-Split

Refrigerant lines, condensate, electrical disconnect, line set sleeve.