What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)
- Stop-work order plus $250–$500 fine: Franklin Building Department will shut down work immediately if they learn of unpermitted remodeling, halt further activity, and issue a citation with fines starting at $250 and escalating to $500+ per day of continued work.
- Double or triple permit fees on re-pull: If caught partway through, you'll owe the original permit fee plus a re-permitting surcharge (typically 50–100% of the original fee) to legalize the work — a $400 permit becomes $600–$800.
- Insurance claim denial: Your homeowner's policy may refuse to cover water damage, electrical fires, or injuries in an unpermitted kitchen because the work didn't meet code; some insurers also drop coverage entirely if they discover unpermitted remodeling.
- Resale disclosure hit and appraisal impact: Wisconsin requires disclosure of unpermitted work on the property condition statement; buyers' lenders often refuse to finance homes with undisclosed unpermitted kitchens, and appraisals may be reduced by 3–5% or more.
Franklin full kitchen remodels — the key details
Franklin requires a building permit whenever you move or remove any kitchen wall, relocate any plumbing fixture (sink, dishwasher drain, supply lines), add a new electrical circuit, modify a gas line, vent a range hood to the exterior (which involves cutting the wall), or alter any door or window opening. The core rule is Wisconsin IBC Section R603, which requires permits for any 'work that impacts structural elements, mechanical systems, or code-required electrical infrastructure.' Even if your contractor says 'it's just moving cabinets,' if those cabinets sit in front of a structural wall or if the plumbing drain requires rerouting, a permit is triggered. The City of Franklin Building Department interprets this broadly: a single relocated 2x4 wall stud or a single relocated sink drain = permit required. The exception is purely cosmetic work — in-place cabinet face-lift, countertop replacement with the same sink hole, appliance swap on existing circuits, paint, and flooring — which do not require permits. The city's online portal (accessible via the Franklin WI city website) allows you to submit permit applications 24/7, but the Building Department reviews submissions during business hours (typically Mon–Fri 8 AM–5 PM) and responds within 2–3 business days with either approval, minor comments, or a rejection requiring resubmittal.
Electrical code in Franklin kitchens is heavily enforced, particularly around small-appliance branch circuits and GFCI protection. Per NEC Article 210.11(C)(1) (adopted by Wisconsin), every kitchen must have a minimum of two separate 20-amp branch circuits serving the countertop receptacles, and all countertop receptacles must be GFCI-protected. The City of Franklin Building Department rejects nearly 40% of kitchen electrical plans on first submission because homeowners or contractors fail to show both circuits clearly on the drawing or fail to label which outlets are GFCI. The rule is simple: receptacles must not be spaced more than 48 inches apart (measured along the countertop), and every receptacle within 6 feet of a sink must be GFCI. If you're adding an island, the island must also have its own receptacles (not extension cords) at 48-inch intervals, each GFCI-protected. Dedicated circuits for high-draw appliances — range, dishwasher, microwave (if hardwired), garbage disposal — are also required; the city's electrical inspector will request a panel load calc if you're adding more than one dedicated circuit, to ensure the service panel has capacity. Most kitchens require a 200-amp service; if you have an older 100-amp panel and are adding circuits, you'll likely need a service upgrade, which is a separate permit and adds 4–6 weeks and $1,500–$3,000 to the timeline and cost.
Plumbing in Franklin kitchens is governed by Wisconsin state code and enforced locally, with particular attention to drain and vent routing. Per IRC P2722 (kitchen sink drains), the drain arm from a sink must slope at least 1/4 inch per 12 inches toward the stack, and the vent must connect within 6 feet of the trap (measured along the drain line). If you're relocating a sink — even if you're moving it just 3 feet — the plumbing code requires a new drain-and-vent drawing showing the trap arm, vent routing, and connection to the main stack. Franklin's plumbing inspector will request this drawing at permit application; omitting it is a common rejection. Additionally, if your kitchen is on a basement level or if the drain runs under the frost line (48 inches in Franklin), the plumbing plan must address frost protection — either the line must slope to a sump or trap or must be insulated below frost depth. Lead-paint disclosure is also mandatory on plumbing permits if the home was built before 1978; the building department will flag this on the permit notice, and you must provide a disclosure form signed by the homeowner before the plumbing inspection can occur. If your kitchen includes a dishwasher, the rough-in must show the drain line and air-gap or high-loop installation to prevent backflow — a detail often missed on first plans.
Range hoods with exterior venting are a major trigger for rejections in Franklin. Per IRC M1502 (kitchen exhaust systems), any range hood that vents to the exterior must have a duct terminating at an exterior wall with a damper-equipped cap; the duct cannot terminate in the attic, crawlspace, or soffit. The city's building inspector will ask for a detail drawing showing the duct route, exterior wall location, cap type, and clearance from any nearby windows or doors (typically 3 feet minimum). If you're venting through an existing wall, the plan must show where the hole is cut and how the duct is sealed around it. Many homeowners overlook this detail or assume a simple kitchen sketch will suffice; the city requires a specific mechanical-system drawing. The duct itself must be sized per IRC Table M1502.1 (typically 6 inches diameter for a standard range hood) and must not be undersized or flex-ducted excessively. If the duct run is longer than 10 feet, you may need a larger-diameter duct or a booster fan; the mechanical contractor submitting the permit must size it correctly. If you're replacing an existing range hood with a new model that vents differently, even if it's on the same exterior wall, the city treats it as a new duct install and requires updated mechanical drawings.
Load-bearing wall removal in a kitchen is rare but catastrophic if done wrong, and Franklin enforces engineering requirements strictly. If you're opening up a wall between the kitchen and dining room or living room, the plumbing inspector will first determine if the wall is load-bearing (typically it is, because it sits perpendicular to floor joists or carries an upper floor). Per IRC R602.7 (Beams and Headers), any load-bearing wall removal must be supported by a properly sized beam engineered by a licensed structural engineer in Wisconsin. The city will not approve a kitchen permit with a load-bearing wall removal unless you submit a PE-stamped beam sizing letter and a structural plan. This adds 2–3 weeks and $800–$1,500 to your project cost, but it's mandatory and the city enforces it. Homeowners who attempt to skip this step (removing a wall without a permit, or submitting a generic beam size) face not only stop-work orders but also potential liability if the wall collapses. Franklin's building inspector will also inspect the beam installation, checking for proper bearing, flashing, and connection to the remaining structure.
Three Franklin kitchen remodel (full) scenarios
Why Franklin's electrical inspector flags kitchen circuits on first submission
The City of Franklin Building Department's electrical inspector operates under Wisconsin Electrical Code (adopted from NEC 2020 edition as of 2024), and the kitchen small-appliance circuit rule is a top-three rejection reason. Per NEC 210.11(C)(1) and 210.52(C), every kitchen must have two or more 20-amp circuits dedicated to countertop receptacles and built-in appliances like dishwashers, microwaves, and garbage disposals. These two circuits cannot be used for any other purpose in the home. Many homeowners and even some contractors assume they can add kitchen receptacles to an existing living-room 15-amp circuit or combine the kitchen outlets with a bedroom circuit; the inspector will immediately reject this on the electrical drawing.
The second major flag is GFCI protection. Per NEC 210.8(A)(6), every receptacle within 6 feet of a sink in a kitchen must be GFCI-protected. Additionally, all countertop receptacles must be GFCI, even if they're 8 feet from the sink. Most homes need 4–6 GFCI receptacles in a full kitchen remodel (sink area, island, peninsula, appliance areas). The inspector will request a drawing that clearly labels which outlets are GFCI and which are standard. Outlets must also be spaced no more than 48 inches apart (measured along the countertop edge). If you have a 10-foot countertop with no outlets shown, the inspector will request you add an outlet every 48 inches. When submitting an electrical drawing to Franklin, include a floor plan with outlet locations dimensioned and labeled 'GFCI' or 'Standard', a panel diagram showing the two 20-amp circuits clearly, and a note that all circuits are 20-amp (not 15-amp). This single document revision eliminates 80% of first-submission rejections.
Franklin's electrical inspector also enforces 240V dedicated circuits for high-draw appliances. If you're installing a gas range, the controls and vent hood fan typically require a 240V circuit (not always, but many modern models do). An electric range obviously requires 240V. A dishwasher on a new installation should have its own 20-amp circuit (shared with the garbage disposal or microwave is acceptable under code, but the inspector prefers dedicated if space allows). When you submit your electrical plan, list every appliance that will be hardwired or hardwired-to-cord, specify its amperage (from the spec sheet), and state whether it requires a dedicated circuit. This clarity prevents the back-and-forth that delays permits.
Plumbing complexity in Franklin kitchens — frost depth, drain sizing, and vent routing
Franklin sits in ASHRAE Climate Zone 6A with a 48-inch frost depth, which directly impacts kitchen plumbing design, particularly for any sink relocation. The Wisconsin State Building Code and local enforcement require that any drain line or water supply line running below 48 inches must either be sloped to daylight (drain away from the foundation), insulated below the frost line, or heat-traced. In a typical kitchen remodel where the sink is relocating from the north wall to an island or peninsula, the drain line may run under concrete slab or through a basement cavity; if it dips below 48 inches without protection, frost heave can crack the fitting or trap. The City of Franklin's plumbing inspector will ask for a detail drawing showing the drain routing and noting whether the line is above or below frost, and if below, how it's protected. This is a local enforcement detail that neighboring cities like Greenfield or Hales Corners may not emphasize as heavily; Franklin's inspector has seen too many mid-winter drain freezes and now requires explicit documentation.
Drain sizing and slope are also critical. Per IRC P2722, the drain arm from a kitchen sink must be a minimum 1.5-inch pipe (for a single sink) and must slope downward at 1/4 inch per 12 inches. The trap must be within 6 feet of the sink opening (measured along the drain line, not straight distance). The vent line connecting to the main stack must be within 6 feet of the trap outlet. If you're relocating a sink 15 feet away, the drain line is long, and the vent routing becomes complex. The plumbing plan must show the trap arm, the vent location, and how it connects to the main stack or a secondary vent. If the sink is on a kitchen island with no wall for a traditional vent, you may need a loop vent (a vent line that goes up, over, and down to connect to the main stack above the sink) or an air-admittance valve (Studor vent). Franklin's plumbing inspector will specify which is acceptable; most prefer traditional vent routing but will approve AAVs if the design is sound.
Lead-paint disclosure is an additional plumbing-permit requirement for pre-1978 homes. If your kitchen was built before 1978 and you're disturbing painted surfaces during remodeling (which you will — demolition alone disturbs paint), Wisconsin and federal law require a lead-hazard disclosure form signed by the homeowner before any construction begins. The City of Franklin Building Department's plumbing permit notice will include a lead-disclosure checklist; you must provide signed confirmation before the plumbing inspection can proceed. Failure to provide this disclosure can delay the project by 2–3 weeks and expose you to liability. This requirement is often overlooked by homeowners but is non-negotiable in Franklin.
Franklin City Hall, Franklin, Wisconsin (exact address: verify at ci.franklin.wi.us or call)
Phone: (262) 425-2610 (verify locally; typical main number for City of Franklin) | https://ci.franklin.wi.us/permits (or check Franklin city website for current online permit portal link)
Monday–Friday 8:00 AM – 5:00 PM (verify with department)
Common questions
Do I need a permit to replace my kitchen sink with a new one in the same location?
No, if the sink is staying in the exact same location and the drain/supply are not being altered. You can unplug/disconnect the old sink and install a new one without a permit. However, if the new sink requires a different counter cutout, if the drain arm needs adjusting, or if the supply lines are moved even slightly, a plumbing permit is required. When in doubt, call the City of Franklin Building Department to confirm whether your specific swap requires a permit.
My kitchen is in a pre-1978 house. Do I need a lead-paint disclosure even if I'm just painting cabinets?
If you're only painting cabinets without disturbing walls, trim, or other painted surfaces, a lead-paint disclosure is not required by Franklin's building code because you're not altering structural or mechanical elements. However, if your remodel includes any wall removal, countertop work that disturbs paint, flooring removal, or plumbing/electrical that requires disturbing painted surfaces, you must provide a lead-hazard disclosure form signed by the homeowner before any permit is issued. It's safer to assume any full kitchen remodel in a pre-1978 home requires disclosure.
Can I pull a kitchen remodel permit myself as an owner-builder in Franklin?
Yes. Wisconsin state law allows owner-builders to pull permits and perform work on owner-occupied residential properties. The City of Franklin accepts owner-builder applications for kitchen remodels. You must sign the permit application as the applicant, and you are responsible for ensuring the work meets code and passes all inspections. Many inspectors are more stringent with owner-builder work because they expect the applicant to understand code compliance. If your kitchen involves a load-bearing wall removal, you must still hire a licensed structural engineer to produce the PE-stamped design; you cannot do this work yourself.
How long does the City of Franklin typically take to review a full kitchen remodel permit?
For a kitchen remodel with building, plumbing, and electrical permits, expect 3–5 weeks for initial plan review. If there are comments or required revisions, resubmission and a second review add another 1–2 weeks. If the project includes a load-bearing wall removal, add 2–3 weeks for structural review. Once permits are approved, inspections typically occur over 3–4 weeks (rough plumbing, rough electrical, framing, drywall, final), so the full project timeline from submission to final sign-off is typically 8–12 weeks.
What is the permit fee for a full kitchen remodel in Franklin?
Permit fees vary by project valuation. Franklin typically charges permit fees as a percentage of the declared project cost (usually 1.5–2%) plus base fees. For a $50,000 kitchen remodel, expect $400–$800 for building, $250–$500 for plumbing, and $300–$600 for electrical, totaling roughly $950–$1,900 in permit fees. If a structural permit is required for a wall removal, add another $100–$300 for the structural review. Fees are due at permit issuance. Contact the City of Franklin Building Department for the current fee schedule.
Do I need permits for a new dishwasher and garbage disposal in my kitchen remodel?
If the dishwasher and garbage disposal are being installed on existing circuits and existing drain/supply lines (no new circuits, no drain relocation), no permit is required — these are appliance installations, not structural or mechanical changes. If the new dishwasher requires a dedicated circuit (which is recommended by code but not always required), or if the drain needs rerouting, then a plumbing and/or electrical permit is triggered. The safest approach: specify the exact location and drain/supply routing in your remodel plan and ask Franklin's building department whether a permit is needed.
What happens if I install a range-hood vent and don't include the exterior-termination detail on my mechanical permit?
The City of Franklin's mechanical or building inspector will issue a comment on your permit requiring you to submit a detail drawing showing the duct route, exterior wall location, duct diameter (usually 6 inches), cap type (damper-equipped), and clearances. You'll have to resubmit the plan and wait for re-review (typically 5–7 days). Once approved, during the rough-mechanical inspection, the inspector will verify the duct is installed per the approved plan. If the duct is undersized, routed improperly, or terminates in a soffit instead of the exterior wall, the inspector will issue a deficiency notice and you'll have to correct it before final inspection. It's much faster to get the detail right on the first submission.
I'm moving my kitchen sink 20 feet to the other side of the kitchen. What plumbing details does Franklin require?
Franklin requires a plumbing plan showing: (1) the new sink location and drain arm routing to the trap, (2) the trap location and the 1/4-inch-per-12-inch slope of the drain line, (3) the vent line routing from the trap to the main stack (within 6 feet of the trap), (4) the supply-line routing for hot and cold water, (5) if the line runs below the 48-inch frost line, notation of frost protection (insulation, heat trace, or slope to daylight), and (6) connection details at the main drain and vent stack. A simple sketch is not sufficient; the city's plumbing inspector will request a scale drawing. Your plumber should provide this as part of the permit application.
Can I put GFCI outlets anywhere in the kitchen, or do they have to be in specific locations?
Per NEC code adopted by Franklin, all receptacles within 6 feet of a sink must be GFCI-protected, and all countertop receptacles must be GFCI. On a typical kitchen island, if the sink is on one end, all receptacles within 6 feet of the sink edge must be GFCI; receptacles farther away (8+ feet) may be standard. However, Franklin's inspector typically flags kitchen plans where standard (non-GFCI) receptacles are less than 8 feet from any sink, so to be safe, install GFCI on all countertop receptacles. GFCI can be a receptacle itself (GFCI outlet) or a breaker at the panel (GFCI breaker protecting the circuit). Most kitchen remodels use GFCI outlets for easier replacement and testing.
If I'm replacing a gas stove with a new electric range, do I need permits?
Yes. Installing an electric range requires a new 240V dedicated circuit (assuming your current range doesn't have one) and an electrical permit. You'll also need to cap off the old gas line at the meter with a proper gas-line cap (sealed, not just a loose cap), which may require a plumber's visit or a gas technician. If the old gas line is simply abandoned without being capped and purged, the city may flag it during final inspection. So you'll need an electrical permit for the circuit and either a plumbing permit or a certified gas-tech service call to properly decommission the gas line. Confirm with Franklin's building department, but typically the electrical permit is mandatory.
More permit guides
National guides for the most-asked homeowner permit projects. Each goes deep on code thresholds, common rejections, fees, and timeline.
Roof Replacement
Layer count, deck inspection, ice dam protection, hurricane straps.
Deck
Attached vs freestanding, footings, frost depth, ledger, height/area thresholds.
Kitchen Remodel
Plumbing, electrical, gas line, ventilation, structural changes.
Solar Panels
Structural review, electrical interconnection, fire setbacks, AHJ approval.
Fence
Height/material limits, sight triangles, pool barriers, setbacks.
HVAC
Equipment changeouts, ductwork, combustion air, ventilation, IMC sections.
Bathroom Remodel
Plumbing rough-in, ventilation, electrical (GFCI/AFCI), waterproofing.
Electrical Work
Subpermits, NEC sections, panel upgrades, GFCI/AFCI, who can pull.
Basement Finishing
Egress, ceiling height, electrical, moisture barriers, occupancy rules.
Room Addition
Foundation, footings, framing, electrical/plumbing extensions, structural.
Accessory Dwelling Units (ADU)
When permits are required, code thresholds, JADU vs ADU, electrical/plumbing/parking rules.
New Windows
Egress, header sizing, structural cuts, fire-rating, energy code.
Heat Pump
Electrical capacity, refrigerant handling, condensate, IECC compliance.
Hurricane Retrofit
Roof straps, garage door bracing, opening protection, FL OIR product approval.
Pool
Barriers, alarms, electrical bonding, plumbing, separation distances.
Fireplace & Wood Stove
Hearth, clearances, chimney, gas line work, NFPA 211.
Sump Pump
Discharge location, electrical, backup options, plumbing tie-in.
Mini-Split
Refrigerant lines, condensate, electrical disconnect, line set sleeve.