Research by DoINeedAPermit Research Team · Updated May 2026
The Short Answer
A full kitchen remodel in Highland Park triggers a building permit whenever you move walls, relocate plumbing fixtures, add electrical circuits, modify gas lines, vent a range hood to the exterior, or change window/door openings. Cosmetic-only work — cabinet and countertop replacement on existing plumbing and electrical — does not require a permit.
Highland Park's building code (which adopts the 2021 International Building Code with local amendments) requires permits for structural or system changes in kitchens, and the city is notably strict about documentation during plan review. Unlike some neighboring suburbs that allow abbreviated submittals for minor kitchen work, Highland Park's Building Department requires full architectural or engineer-stamped drawings when load-bearing walls are involved, separate electrical and plumbing plans when fixtures are relocated, and photographic proof of pre-1978 lead-paint disclosure if your home was built before that year. The city also enforces a two-inspector sequence for kitchens: rough trades (plumbing, electrical, HVAC) are inspected before drywall closure, then a final building inspection after finish. Plan review typically takes 2–4 weeks; expect an additional 3–5 weeks for construction and inspections. The city's online permit portal (accessible via the City of Highland Park website) allows you to track your application status but does not yet support fully digital submittals — you'll still need to print and deliver or mail originals to City Hall unless policy has changed since this article's publication.

What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)

Highland Park full kitchen remodels — the key details

Highland Park Building Department requires separate building, electrical, and plumbing permits for any kitchen remodel that involves moving walls, relocating fixtures, or adding circuits. The building permit covers structural changes (wall removal, opening enlargement, floor reinforcement); the electrical permit covers circuit additions, GFCI outlet installation, and range-hood wiring; the plumbing permit covers fixture relocation, drain-line rerouting, and gas-line modifications. If you are also installing a range hood with exterior ducting, the building permit must include a detail showing the duct termination (typically requiring a 1.25-inch minimum clearance from windows and doors per IRC M1503.4). The city requires all three permits to be pulled simultaneously or in tandem before work begins — you cannot legally start framing or rough-in trades before receiving at least the building permit and separate trade permits. Typical permit fees range from $400 to $1,200 for the combined package, calculated as a percentage of the project valuation (typically 1.5–2% of the declared scope cost); a $30,000 kitchen remodel would generate approximately $450–$600 in permit fees, split roughly $250 building, $125 electrical, $125 plumbing.

Load-bearing wall removal — the most common permit trigger and the most likely source of plan-review rejection — requires either a third-party structural engineer's letter or a sizing calculation from a licensed design professional stamped by a professional engineer in Illinois. Highland Park's Building Department will not approve a load-bearing wall removal based on rule-of-thumb sizing or generic span tables; the city requires a letter that states the engineer has reviewed the existing framing, soil conditions, live and dead loads, and proposes a specific beam size, material (steel or engineered lumber), and bearing method. This engineer's letter must also address the 42-inch frost depth in Highland Park (glacial till substrate), which affects the depth of bearing pockets if the beam bears on the foundation. If you are removing a bearing wall in a kitchen adjacent to the perimeter, you also need to verify whether the foundation will support a new bearing point — this sometimes requires drilling test holes or a geotechnical brief. The engineer letter typically costs $400–$800 and is required before the building permit can be issued; it is not optional.

Electrical work in kitchens is highly regulated under the National Electrical Code and Illinois' amendments. Highland Park requires two dedicated 20-amp small-appliance branch circuits (IRC E3702.12) serving only countertop receptacles — no lighting on these circuits. Counter receptacles must be spaced no more than 48 inches apart (measured horizontally along the countertop), and every countertop receptacle must be GFCI-protected, either by a GFCI breaker in the panel or a GFCI outlet in the first position of the circuit (IRC E3801). The electrical plan submitted with your permit application must show the location of every outlet, switch, and fixture, including the two small-appliance circuits, the dedicated 20-amp circuit for the dishwasher (if applicable), the dedicated 240-volt circuit for the range or cooktop, and any 240-volt circuits for wall ovens or microwave ovens. Any new branch circuit requires a dedicated breaker slot in your main panel; if your panel is full, you will need a sub-panel or a tandem/twin breaker upgrade (which may require a service-entrance inspection). The electrical inspection occurs in two stages: rough-in (before drywall) and final (after trim, after all fixtures are energized). Many Highland Park electricians recommend submitting the electrical plan 1–2 weeks before you plan to start rough-in, because the city's electrical inspector sometimes requests modifications to outlet placement or circuit routing.

Plumbing relocation in kitchens must account for the Illinois Plumbing Code (which adopts the IPC with state amendments) and Highland Park's local amendments, particularly regarding trap-arm length and venting. Sink drain lines in kitchens must have a trap-arm no longer than 30 inches before they connect to the vent stack or a separate vent (IRC P3201.7); if you are relocating the sink more than 30 inches from the existing vent, you may need to install a new vent line, which often requires routing through the wall and opening the ceiling above. The plumbing plan must show the location of the sink, the drain routing with slope (minimum 1/4 inch per foot downward), the trap location, the vent connection, and the hot and cold water line routing. If you are installing a dishwasher or a new garbage disposal, those must also be on the plan; many Highland Park inspectors reject plans that do not show the dishwasher drain connection to the sink trap at an approved height (typically 20–36 inches above the finished floor). Lead-paint disclosure: if your home was built before 1978, Illinois law requires you to disclose the presence of lead-based paint and to test for lead before renovation begins — the contractor must be EPA-certified, and you must provide the inspector with proof of testing or clearance. Highland Park's Building Department will ask for a lead disclosure form or a third-party clearance letter as a condition of final approval; failure to provide it can result in a stop-work order.

Plan review and inspection timeline in Highland Park typically spans 6–12 weeks from permit submission to final approval. The building department reviews all three trade permits simultaneously and will return a marked-up set of plans (usually within 2–4 weeks) identifying missing details, code violations, or questions. Common rejections include: missing or unclear load-bearing wall calculations, inadequate outlet spacing on the electrical plan, plumbing trap-arm routing that exceeds 30 inches without a dedicated vent, and incomplete range-hood termination details. Once you receive approved permits, you schedule rough inspections with each trade (plumbing, electrical, framing/structural if applicable); the city typically provides same-week or next-week inspection availability. After rough inspection and before drywall, the building inspector conducts a framing/rough-in inspection to verify wall locations, structural support, and that trades have not interfered with each other. Final inspection occurs after all drywall, finish, and fixtures are installed; the inspector verifies that all three trades have signed off and that the kitchen meets the approved plans. If issues are discovered during inspection, you receive a correction notice (typically 10–15 days to fix) before final approval. Plan on 8–12 weeks total from permit submission to final sign-off, longer if plan review rejections occur.

Three Highland Park kitchen remodel (full) scenarios

Scenario A
Cabinet and countertop replacement, same-location sink, existing electrical circuits — Elm Street 1960s ranch
You are replacing the existing kitchen cabinets and countertops in a 1960s ranch house on Elm Street in Highland Park. The sink stays in the same location; the existing plumbing lines (hot/cold supply and drain) are reused without relocation. The existing electrical circuits serving the kitchen are adequate for the new appliances (the old wall oven circuit will supply the new wall oven; the existing small-appliance circuit will supply the new refrigerator and microwave). You are not removing any walls, not moving any windows or doors, not adding new gas lines, and not installing a vented range hood (either using a recirculating hood or no hood at all). No lead-paint disclosure is required because the work is non-invasive. Under Illinois building code and Highland Park's interpretation, this is cosmetic-only work and does not trigger a permit. You can proceed with cabinet and countertop installation without filing with the building department. The trade (cabinet shop, countertop contractor) does not need a license for installation-only work. However, if the electrical service is marginal or the existing circuits are already at capacity, you may want a licensed electrician to verify that your new appliances will not overload the service before installation; this is advisory, not required for permit purposes. Total cost for cabinets, countertops, and installation is $15,000–$35,000; zero permit fees.
No permit required (cosmetic only) | Existing plumbing/electrical reused | Countertop fabrication 2–3 weeks | Installation 3–5 days | Total project cost $15,000–$35,000 | Zero permit fees
Scenario B
Wall removal between kitchen and dining room, beam sizing required, load-bearing confirmation — Sheridan Road mid-century colonial
You own a mid-century colonial on Sheridan Road and want to remove the wall between your kitchen and dining room to create an open-concept living space. Preliminary inspection suggests the wall is load-bearing (it runs perpendicular to the floor joists above and supports the second floor). To proceed, you must hire a licensed structural engineer in Illinois to perform a site visit, review the framing, calculate the load (assuming second-floor live load 40 psf, dead load 15–20 psf), and propose a beam size. The engineer will determine whether a steel beam, engineered lumber, or built-up beam is appropriate and will specify the bearing depth and method (ledger bolts into the foundation, or a new footing below the frost line at 42 inches). The engineer's letter, stamped and signed, costs $600–$1,000. You submit this letter along with a building permit application that includes a floor plan showing the beam location, size, and bearing points. The building permit fee is approximately $300–$500 (calculated on the remodel valuation, not the beam cost alone). You will also need to pull a plumbing permit if the kitchen sink or any drains cross the wall location (because you may need to reroute them), and an electrical permit if any circuits run through the wall that you are removing. Once permits are issued, you cannot start demolition until the structural inspection is approved (typically during plan review). The builder or contractor must submit photographic evidence of the beam installation and bearing before drywall closure. The building inspector will schedule a framing inspection after the beam is set and before any new walls or drywall are installed. If the wall contains a gas line or water line, you must also notify the plumber or gas contractor before demolition. Total timeline: 2–3 weeks for engineer's letter, 2–4 weeks for plan review, 2–3 weeks for construction and inspections. Total cost for engineer, permits, beam, and installation: $2,500–$6,000 beyond typical kitchen remodel costs.
Structural engineer required | Beam sizing letter $600–$1,000 | Building permit $300–$500 | Plumbing permit (if drains cross) $100–$200 | Electrical permit (if circuits rerouted) $100–$200 | Beam material and installation $1,500–$3,500 | Total added cost $2,500–$5,500 | Typical timeline 6–10 weeks
Scenario C
Full kitchen remodel with new island, relocated sink and range, new electrical circuits, range-hood exterior vent — Green Bay Road 1970s split-level
You are performing a comprehensive kitchen remodel in your 1970s split-level on Green Bay Road. You are installing a new island with a cooktop; relocating the sink 8 feet to the west wall (requiring new drain, supply lines, and a dedicated vent line because the trap-arm would exceed 30 inches from the existing vent); adding a new 240-volt circuit for the cooktop; adding two new 20-amp small-appliance circuits for countertop receptacles; installing a new range hood with exterior ductwork (which requires cutting through the exterior wall and installing a duct cap). You are not removing any load-bearing walls, but you are relocating an existing circuit that currently powers the dishwasher. This project requires three permits: building, electrical, and plumbing. The building permit application must include a floor plan (1/4 inch = 1 foot) showing the kitchen layout with the island, the new duct route for the range hood (showing the exit point on the exterior), and any structural notes if you are cutting a header in the exterior wall for the duct. The electrical permit application must show the locations of all receptacles (spaced no more than 48 inches apart along countertops), the two dedicated small-appliance circuits, the dedicated dishwasher circuit, the dedicated cooktop circuit (240V, 50-amp), and the range-hood wiring (typically 120V dedicated circuit). The plumbing permit application must show the sink relocation with trap-arm length, slope, and vent routing; the supply lines (hot and cold); and the dishwasher connection to the trap. You must also submit a lead-paint disclosure form (or a third-party lead clearance letter if the home was built before 1978, which it was). Combined permit fees: approximately $700–$1,200 depending on the declared project valuation ($35,000–$50,000 is typical for a full remodel with island). Plan review takes 2–4 weeks. Once approved, you schedule rough inspections in sequence: plumbing first (to verify trap, vent routing, and supply connections), then electrical (to verify circuit routing, outlet locations, and panel work), then a structural/framing inspection if you cut a header for the hood duct. After rough inspections pass, you can install drywall and finishes. Final inspection occurs after all work is complete; the inspector verifies that all three trades have signed off and that the kitchen matches the approved plans. Total timeline: 2–4 weeks plan review, 4–6 weeks construction, 2–3 weeks for inspections = 8–13 weeks total. Expected project cost (materials, labor, permits, inspections): $40,000–$70,000.
Building permit $250–$400 | Electrical permit $200–$350 | Plumbing permit $150–$250 | Lead disclosure form required | Range-hood duct cap detail required | Island cooktop 240V circuit 50-amp | Two 20-amp small-appliance circuits | Sink relocation with new vent line | Total permit fees $600–$1,000 | Timeline 8–13 weeks

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Load-bearing wall removal and structural requirements in Highland Park kitchens

Removing a load-bearing wall in a kitchen is the most expensive and time-consuming element of a full remodel, and Highland Park's Building Department enforces strict documentation requirements. A wall is load-bearing if it runs perpendicular to floor joists above, sits atop a beam or bearing wall below, or carries any portion of the roof or second floor. The 2021 IBC (which Highland Park has adopted) requires that any load-bearing wall removal be designed by a licensed professional engineer (PE) in Illinois; rule-of-thumb sizing or generic tables are not acceptable. The engineer must perform a site visit, measure existing framing, determine the live and dead loads bearing on the wall, and propose a replacement beam. In Highland Park, the 42-inch frost depth (bedrock varies, but glacial till predominates) affects how the beam bearing must be detailed: if the beam bears on the existing foundation, the foundation depth must be confirmed; if a new bearing point is needed, it must extend below the frost line.

The most common engineer-proposed solution is a steel beam (W10x49 or W12x40, depending on span) sitting on a ledger bolted to the foundation, or bearing on new posts set on footings below frost. The engineer's letter (which you submit with your permit application) will specify the beam size, material grade, bearing method, and connection details. Typical engineer's letter cost: $500–$900. The building department will review the letter during plan review and either approve it or request modifications (e.g., 'specify bolt spacing,' 'show shear tabs'). Once approved, you cannot install the beam until the building inspector has inspected it and signed off — this is a mandatory rough inspection point. If the beam is installed incorrectly (wrong size, wrong bolts, inadequate bearing depth), the inspector will issue a correction notice and will not approve drywall closure until it is fixed. Many contractors underestimate the structural timeline: budget 2–3 weeks for the engineer's letter, 2–4 weeks for plan review, and 1–2 weeks for beam fabrication and installation.

Post and beam details in Highland Park kitchens sometimes trigger additional questions if the new beam sits on a new post. The post must rest on a footing that extends below the 42-inch frost line; if your kitchen sits on a concrete slab, you may need to cut a pit in the slab, dig a footing, pour a new foundation, and set the post — this is structural work that the building inspector will verify before drywall. Some homeowners in older Highland Park homes discover that the existing foundation is not deep enough or is too weak to support a ledger beam; in those cases, a new bearing point or a concrete pad must be poured. This can add $2,000–$5,000 to the structural cost and may require a soils engineer if the foundation is marginal. Always budget 15–25% contingency for structural work.

Electrical code compliance and common rejections in Highland Park kitchen permits

The National Electrical Code (NEC) and Illinois' amendments impose specific requirements for kitchen circuits that are frequently misunderstood and are the number-one source of permit rejections in Highland Park. IRC E3702.12 requires a minimum of two dedicated 20-amp small-appliance branch circuits serving only the kitchen countertop receptacles, the refrigerator, and the dining-room receptacles (if part of the same circuit); no lighting, no exhaust fan, and no gas range ignition circuit can be on these circuits. Highland Park's Building Department will reject an electrical plan that shows only one small-appliance circuit or that lumps lighting into the small-appliance circuit. Additionally, every countertop receptacle must be GFCI-protected (IRC E3801.4): you can use a GFCI breaker in the panel (which protects all downstream outlets) or a GFCI outlet in the first position of the circuit (which protects downstream receptacles). If you install a GFCI outlet, the circuit downstream of that outlet is protected, but receptacles upstream of the GFCI (between the breaker and the GFCI outlet) are not protected — the electrical inspector will note this if the plan is unclear.

Counter receptacle spacing is another common rejection point. IRC E3802.1 requires that no countertop surface longer than 12 inches and no countertop corner be more than 48 inches horizontally from a receptacle (measured in a direct line). This means that if your kitchen counter is 60 inches long, you need at least two receptacles (at roughly 30-inch intervals). If your island is 4 feet long, it needs at least one receptacle (closer to the middle, to keep all points within 48 inches). Many homeowners underestimate the number of receptacles needed; a typical 12 x 14-foot kitchen with perimeter counters and an island may need 8–12 receptacles just for code compliance. The electrical plan must show every receptacle location and must annotate the maximum distance from any point on the counter to the nearest receptacle. If the plan does not include this annotation, the electrical inspector or the building department during plan review will reject it and ask for clarification.

Gas range and cooktop circuits are also heavily regulated. If you are installing a gas cooktop, the gas supply line must be connected by a licensed plumber or gas fitter (not by an electrician). The cooktop itself may require an electrical connection (for ignition, clock, or controls) — this is typically a dedicated 120V, 20-amp circuit, but the electrical plan must clearly identify which cooktop model is being installed and what its electrical requirements are. If you are installing an electric cooktop or range, it requires a dedicated 240V circuit (typically 40–50 amp) sized according to the appliance nameplate. The electrical plan must call out the breaker size, wire gauge, and circuit layout for any 240V circuit; undersizing this is a common error and a guaranteed plan rejection.

City of Highland Park Building and Zoning Department
1707 St. Johns Avenue, Highland Park, IL 60035
Phone: (847) 432-0800 | https://www.cityhpk.org/government (check 'Permits' or 'Building' section for online portal access)
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM–5:00 PM (call to confirm)

Common questions

Can I do a full kitchen remodel without a permit if I am the owner and owner-occupant?

Highland Park allows owner-builders to pull permits for owner-occupied residential work, but the permit is still required. The fact that you own and occupy the home does not exempt you from the building code or the permit requirement if structural, electrical, or plumbing work is involved. You can pull the permit yourself (without hiring a general contractor), but the code and inspection requirements are the same. If you use a licensed contractor, they are required to be licensed by the state; if you are doing the work yourself, you are liable for code compliance and inspection.

What is the difference between a cosmetic kitchen remodel and one that requires a permit in Highland Park?

A cosmetic remodel (cabinet and countertop replacement, appliance swap, paint, flooring, backsplash) does not require a permit if the sink, drains, gas lines, and electrical circuits stay in their existing locations and are not upgraded. The moment you move a sink, add a new circuit, cut into a wall for range-hood ducting, or remove a load-bearing wall, a permit is required. If you are unsure whether your project is cosmetic, contact the Highland Park Building Department with photos and a brief description; they can confirm whether a permit is needed.

How much does a full kitchen permit cost in Highland Park?

Permit fees for a full kitchen remodel in Highland Park are typically $600–$1,200 total, split among building ($300–$500), electrical ($150–$300), and plumbing ($150–$300). The exact fee depends on the declared project valuation (usually 1.5–2% of the total remodel cost). A $40,000 remodel would generate roughly $600–$800 in permits; a $60,000 remodel would be roughly $900–$1,200. These are permit fees only and do not include engineer's letters, inspections, or contractor costs.

Do I need a structural engineer for every kitchen wall removal?

Only if the wall is load-bearing. A load-bearing wall typically runs perpendicular to floor joists above or carries the second floor or roof. If the wall is non-load-bearing (it sits between two load-bearing walls or does not support anything above), you do not need a structural engineer — you just need a building permit showing the wall removal on the floor plan. The building inspector will determine whether the wall is load-bearing during the inspection process; if it is and you did not provide an engineer's letter, you will be stopped and required to hire an engineer retroactively. To avoid this, have a contractor or structural inspector verify the wall status before you pull the permit.

How long does plan review take for a kitchen permit in Highland Park?

Plan review typically takes 2–4 weeks. The city reviews all three trade permits (building, electrical, plumbing) simultaneously. If the submission is complete and clear, you may receive approval within 2 weeks. If there are missing details (e.g., no range-hood termination shown, outlet spacing not annotated, trap-arm length not specified), the city will issue a comment list and request resubmission, which adds another 1–2 weeks. Budget 4 weeks to be safe; if you are in a hurry, contact the building department and ask whether expedited review is available (some cities offer same-day or next-day review for a premium fee).

What inspections do I need for a full kitchen remodel?

A full kitchen remodel typically requires 3–5 inspections: (1) rough plumbing (before walls close, to verify trap, vent, and supply routing); (2) rough electrical (to verify circuit routing, outlet locations, and panel work); (3) rough framing or structural (if walls are removed or headers are cut); (4) drywall or pre-final (to verify wall locations and that trades have not interfered); and (5) final (after all finishes and fixtures are installed). Each trade (plumbing, electrical) may have its own inspector, or the building inspector may coordinate. Schedule inspections at least 24 hours in advance by calling or using the online portal. Failed inspections may require corrections before you can proceed to the next phase.

Is lead-paint disclosure required for my Highland Park kitchen remodel?

If your home was built before 1978, yes — lead-paint disclosure is required by Illinois law before renovation begins. You must provide the contractor with a lead-hazard information pamphlet and must either test the kitchen for lead (using an EPA-certified lead inspector) or assume lead is present and use lead-safe work practices (containment, HEPA filtration, wet cleaning). The contractor must be EPA-certified if lead is disturbed. You can provide the building department with a lead clearance letter from a third-party inspector or a statement that lead-safe practices were used. Homes built after 1978 do not require disclosure.

Can I use an unlicensed contractor for part of the kitchen remodel?

In Illinois, plumbing, electrical, and HVAC work must be performed by licensed contractors (plumber, electrician, HVAC technician). Carpentry, demolition, and finish work (drywall, flooring, cabinets) can be performed by unlicensed workers if the homeowner is present and supervising. If you are the owner-occupant, you can perform carpentry and finish work yourself; you cannot legally perform plumbing, electrical, or gas work. The permit application will ask whether the work is being done by owner or by a licensed contractor; if licensed trades are involved, the contractor's license number must be provided. Hiring an unlicensed electrician or plumber is a code violation and will result in a stop-work order and fines.

What if the building inspector fails my kitchen inspection?

If an inspection fails, you receive a correction notice identifying the deficiency (e.g., 'outlet spacing exceeds 48 inches,' 'GFCI not installed,' 'trap-arm exceeds 30 inches without vent'). You have typically 10–15 days to correct the issue and request a re-inspection. Re-inspections are usually scheduled within 3–5 days. If the correction is major (e.g., a wall must be relocated, a vent line must be rerouted), budget additional time and cost. Minor corrections (outlet relocation, GFCI upgrade) are usually quick and low-cost. If you disagree with the inspector's interpretation, you can request a second opinion from the building official or hire a consultant to review the code section in question.

Can I start construction before my permit is approved?

No. Beginning work before a permit is issued is a code violation in Highland Park and all Illinois municipalities. If the building inspector discovers unpermitted work (via a neighbor complaint, a site visit, or a future resale inspection), you face a stop-work order, fines, and potential removal of the work. Always wait for written permit approval before breaking ground. If you are in a hurry, contact the building department and ask about expedited review options or ask whether any preliminary inspections can be scheduled before final plan approval (some jurisdictions allow this for pre-framing structural inspections).

Disclaimer: This guide is based on research conducted in May 2026 using publicly available sources. Always verify current kitchen remodel (full) permit requirements with the City of Highland Park Building Department before starting your project.

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