Research by DoINeedAPermit Research Team · Updated May 2026
The Short Answer
A full kitchen remodel in Hobart requires permits unless the work is purely cosmetic (cabinet/countertop swap, appliance replacement on existing outlets, paint, flooring only). Any wall removal, plumbing relocation, new electrical circuits, gas-line changes, or range-hood venting to exterior triggers permits.
Hobart Building Department treats kitchen remodels as three separate permit jobs — Building, Plumbing, and Electrical are filed as one application package, not individually. This integrated approach (common in Northwest Indiana municipalities) means a single permit fee covers plan review across all three trades, but inspections happen sequentially for each subtrade. Hobart sits in IECC Climate Zone 5A on glacial-till soil with 36-inch frost depth, which affects how plumbing drains must be roughed and sized for kitchen sink relocation — the city enforces IRC P2722 drain-sizing and trap-arm slope strictly because poor drainage design can freeze in winter or create backups in this zone. One Hobart-specific detail: the city's online permit portal (when used) requires a single composite drawing showing electrical circuits, plumbing rough layout, and framing changes on one sheet or clearly cross-referenced PDFs; some neighboring Indiana towns accept separate trade drawings, but Hobart's plan reviewers expect integration to avoid conflicts during the build. Owner-builders can pull permits for owner-occupied homes, which reduces permit costs by roughly 15-20% compared to contractor-pulled permits (no contractor licensing surcharge), though you'll still need a licensed electrician and plumber to do the actual work or sign off on rough inspection. Expect 3-6 weeks for plan review once submitted and 4-5 inspections total (rough plumbing, rough electrical, framing/drywall, final building, final mechanical if range-hood vented).

What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)

Hobart kitchen remodel permits — the key details

Hobart Building Department requires permits for any kitchen work that changes the building envelope, utilities, or structure — this means wall removal, plumbing relocation, new electrical circuits, gas-line modifications, and exterior range-hood venting all require filing. The threshold is clear in practice: if you're moving cabinets but keeping plumbing and electrical in the same locations and not removing walls, you may be able to skip permits (cosmetic-only work is exempt). However, 'full kitchen remodel' almost always triggers permits because homeowners typically relocate the sink, add new outlets for appliances, or vent a range hood to the exterior — each of these is a separate permit trigger. Hobart's Building Department interprets IRC Section R602 (load-bearing walls) conservatively: any wall removal in a kitchen requires either a structural engineer's letter stamped and signed, or a pre-calculated beam size table approved by the city. The city does not issue blanket exemptions for small-span beam removals; even a 10-foot span requires documentation. IRC E3702 mandates two small-appliance branch circuits in the kitchen, each 20-amp, serving all countertop receptacles — Hobart's plan reviewers flag this constantly because homeowners don't always show these circuits on their electrical plan, causing rejections.

Plumbing relocation in Hobart kitchens is governed by IRC P2722 (sink drains) and the city's adoption of the 2020 Indiana Plumbing Code. When you move a sink, the drain must be sized for the fixture (typically 1.5-inch drain pipe) and slope must be between 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch per 12 feet of run — steeper slopes cause siphoning, flatter slopes cause blockage, especially in cold climates like Hobart's Zone 5A where stagnant water in shallow-slope drains can freeze. The city's plan reviewers require a detailed rough plumbing drawing showing trap location, vent stack connection, and the distance from trap to vent (trap-arm distance is typically limited to 3-5 feet depending on pipe size). If your kitchen sink is on an exterior wall and you're relocating it to an interior wall, the vent routing becomes critical and must be shown explicitly; vent-stack routing errors are the second-most common plan rejection in Hobart after electrical circuit count. Gas-line relocation (if you have a gas range or cooktop) requires a licensed plumber or gas-fitter in Indiana; Hobart requires a separate gas-fitting certificate of completion filed with the final plumbing permit. IRC G2406 governs gas-appliance connections and requires minimum 1/2-inch copper or steel pipe from the meter to the appliance, with a drip leg and shutoff valve within 3 feet of the appliance — this must be shown on the plumbing plan.

Electrical permits in Hobart kitchens are the most frequent cause of plan rejection, primarily because of two code requirements that homeowners and some contractors misunderstand. First, IRC E3801 requires Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) protection on all kitchen countertop receptacles (outlets) and on any outlet within 6 feet of a sink; Hobart's code explicitly requires every countertop outlet to be either a GFCI outlet or protected by a GFCI breaker, and the plan must show which outlets are GFCI-protected. Second, IRC E3702 requires two separate 20-amp small-appliance branch circuits serving the kitchen countertop — many homeowners try to add just one circuit, which causes rejection. The city's online permit portal (when accessed directly) prompts submitters to show all kitchen receptacles on the electrical plan with voltage, amperage, GFCI designation, and circuit number; missing any of these fields delays review. If you're adding an island with outlets, those island outlets must also be GFCI-protected and served by the small-appliance circuits. LED under-cabinet lighting and pendant lights over an island do not require GFCI protection if they're on a dedicated lighting circuit (not the small-appliance circuit), but the plan must clearly separate lighting and receptacle circuits.

Range-hood venting is a common secondary surprise in Hobart kitchen permits. If you're adding a range hood with exterior venting (ducted to the outdoors), you must obtain a ducting detail on your plan showing the duct diameter (typically 6 inches minimum), the exterior termination cap, and the route through walls and roof. Hobart Building Department requires the duct termination to include a backdraft damper and a weather-resistant cap; ductwork cannot terminate into a soffit, into an attic, or into a crawlspace — only to an exterior wall or roof. Many homeowners propose interior (non-ducted) range hoods, which do not require venting to exterior and thus do not need a permit; however, a ducted hood requires building permits because you're cutting through the building envelope. The city also requires clearance information: the hood must be 24-36 inches above the cooking surface per manufacturer specs, and this must be noted on the plan. If your kitchen is near an exterior wall and the hood duct would be short (under 12 feet), plan review is typically faster; long duct runs (over 25 feet) trigger additional friction-loss review and may require upsizing the duct to 7 or 8 inches, which delays approval.

Practical next steps for your Hobart kitchen remodel: compile a scope of work document listing every change (wall removal yes/no, plumbing fixture moves, electrical circuits added, gas lines modified, range hood type, window changes). Contact the City of Hobart Building Department to confirm current hours and the submission process — the city's online portal link is available through the city website, but in-person or email submissions are also accepted. For a full kitchen remodel with structural changes, budget 3-6 weeks for plan review; the department will issue a list of corrections if the initial plan is incomplete. Permit costs in Hobart typically range from $300–$1,500 depending on the project valuation (usually estimated at 5-15% of the total remodel cost). Once permits are issued, you'll schedule rough inspections (plumbing first, then electrical, then framing/drywall), each requiring 24-48 hours notice. If your home was built before 1978, you must provide a lead-paint disclosure to any contractors who will disturb painted surfaces during the remodel. Finally, if you're an owner-builder, you can pull permits yourself (saving contractor licensing fees), but you must hire licensed trades to perform plumbing and electrical work; Hobart does not allow unlicensed homeowners to do their own electrical or plumbing under the permit.

Three Hobart kitchen remodel (full) scenarios

Scenario A
Sink relocation from exterior wall to island, new electrical outlets, cosmetic finishes — Hobart residential kitchen, 1995 Cape Cod
You're moving the sink from the north-facing exterior wall (original location) to a new island in the center of the kitchen. This triggers plumbing, electrical, and building permits in Hobart. Plumbing complexity is high because you're relocating the main kitchen drain; the original 1.5-inch drain exits through the rim joist on the exterior wall and connects to the septic or municipal line 8 feet below the foundation (Hobart's 36-inch frost depth means this drain must be trenched well below frost). The new island sink location requires a new 1.5-inch vent stack that will run vertically within the cabinet or island structure, then up through the roof to the exterior — this is a 15-foot vent run, which is within code but must be clearly shown on the plumbing plan with the vent termination detail (cap, height above roof, clearance from window). Electrically, you're adding two new 20-amp small-appliance circuits to serve the island countertop outlets (minimum 2 outlets on an island per IRC E3702), plus possibly a 240-volt circuit for an induction cooktop if you're adding one. All countertop receptacles (both island and perimeter) must be GFCI-protected; the plan must show which are GFCI outlets and which are GFCI-breaker-protected. Structurally, the island is likely non-load-bearing (it's a new cabinet structure supported on the kitchen floor), so no engineer's letter is needed. Cosmetic finishes (cabinet doors, countertop material, tile backsplash, paint) do not require permits in Hobart. The permit cost is $600–$1,000 (plumbing + electrical + building combined), and plan review takes 4-5 weeks. You'll have four inspections: rough plumbing (vent stack visible before drywall), rough electrical (circuits roughed, boxes installed, GFCI protection confirmed), framing/drywall (island structure integrity, vent penetration through roof framed correctly), and final (all fixtures in, trim done, inspection cards signed). Total timeline from permit issuance to final sign-off is 8-12 weeks depending on contractor availability for inspections.
Plumbing + Electrical + Building combined permit | New 1.5-inch vent stack to roof | Two 20-amp small-appliance circuits, GFCI-protected | Sink P-trap sized per ICC P2722 | Island non-load-bearing (no engineer letter required) | $600–$1,000 permit fees | 4-5 weeks plan review | 4 inspections required
Scenario B
Load-bearing wall removal, new beam, range hood venting to exterior — 1978 colonial in Hobart with dividing wall between kitchen and dining room
This scenario involves structural work and range-hood venting, showcasing Hobart's stricter engineering requirements and exterior-envelope rules. You want to remove a 12-foot-span load-bearing wall that separates the kitchen from the dining room, opening up the space. Hobart Building Department does not grant exemptions or allow 'assumed' beam sizes; you must submit a signed structural engineer's letter specifying the beam size (typically LVL or steel), beam supports (posts or ledger locations), and design load assumptions. The engineer's letter must be stamped by an Indiana-licensed Professional Engineer and included with the building permit application; this adds 1-2 weeks to your timeline and costs $400–$800 for the engineer's review and stamp. Electrically, you're running new circuits and adding a range hood with ducting to the exterior wall. The range hood is ducted to a 6-inch duct that cuts through the exterior wall on the east side of the kitchen and terminates in a roof cap; the duct route must be shown on the electrical and HVAC plan (or a separate mechanical submittal) with the roof termination detail, including backdraft damper and weatherproof cap. The range hood circuit is typically 240-volts (hardwired) and requires a dedicated 40-amp or 50-amp circuit depending on the hood's BTU rating; this must be shown explicitly on the electrical plan. Plumbing is standard (sink relocation if applicable) or minimal if the sink stays in place. The major permit cost drivers are the structural engineer's letter ($400–$800 out-of-pocket, separate from permit fees) and the building permit itself ($800–$1,500) because wall removal increases the valuation and plan-review complexity. Hobart's plan reviewers will scrutinize the beam support locations, the post sizes and footings, and the duct termination detail; expect 5-7 weeks for plan review. Lead-paint disclosure is required because the home was built in 1978 (pre-1978, so lead risk exists), and the city may require a pre-disturbance lead assessment or clearance if the wall is plaster or old paint. Four inspections: framing (beam installed, posts in place, footings adequate), rough electrical (range-hood circuit, new circuits roughed), rough plumbing if applicable, and final (duct capped, all systems functional). Total project timeline 10-14 weeks from engineer engagement to final sign-off.
Structural engineer's letter required (signed, stamped) | LVL or steel beam (cost $1,500–$3,500 material + labor separate from permit) | 240-volt dedicated range-hood circuit | 6-inch duct with roof termination cap and backdraft damper | Lead-paint disclosure required (pre-1978 home) | $800–$1,500 building permit + plumbing + electrical combined | 5-7 weeks plan review | Hobart inspects beam installation closely (4 inspections)
Scenario C
Gas cooktop installation, new gas line, appliance-only circuit upgrades, cabinet/countertop cosmetic refresh — 2005 ranch in Hobart neighborhood
You're replacing an electric cooktop with a gas cooktop, which requires a new gas line run from the meter to the appliance and a permit because gas-line modifications are always required in Hobart. This scenario showcases the city's strict gas-code enforcement and the distinction between electrical permitting and gas-fitting permitting (often overlooked by homeowners). The gas line is typically 1/2-inch copper or steel, routed from the existing meter (located outdoors on the west side of the home) through the exterior wall into the kitchen, with a drip leg and shutoff valve within 3 feet of the cooktop per IRC G2406. Hobart requires a licensed Indiana gas-fitter (not a general plumber, though many plumbers hold both licenses) to install and test the gas line; the gas-fitter must pull a separate gas-fitting permit and submit a certificate of completion showing pressure-test results and leak-check pass/fail. This is in addition to the building permit. Electrically, if you're replacing the old electric cooktop with a gas cooktop, you may be able to downgrade the circuit from 240-volt to 120-volt for the gas cooktop's ignition system and blower, but the permit still requires documentation of the circuit change on the electrical plan. If you're upgrading the kitchen's small-appliance outlets or adding a new circuit for undercabinet lighting, those upgrades trigger electrical-permit requirements as well. Structurally, there's no wall removal or load-bearing changes, so no engineer's letter is needed. Cosmetic work (cabinet doors, countertop replacement, tile backsplash, paint) does not require permits and can proceed independently. The permit cost is $400–$900 (building + plumbing for gas-fitting + electrical if circuits are changed), plus the gas-fitter's service fee ($300–$600 for testing and certification), for a total out-of-pocket of $700–$1,500. Plan review is typically 2-3 weeks because gas-line modification is straightforward and doesn't involve structural or major electrical redesign. Inspections are fewer: rough plumbing/gas (gas line pressure-tested, drip leg and shutoff visible), final (cooktop installed, gas connections verified by the inspector and the gas-fitter's certificate on file). Total timeline 6-8 weeks from permit issuance to final sign-off, assuming the gas line doesn't require extensive routing (if it does, longer). This scenario also highlights Hobart's subdivision of permits: the city's building permit covers the structural/building envelope, but the gas-fitting certificate of completion is filed separately by the licensed gas-fitter, not the general contractor.
Gas line modification (IRC G2406 requires 1/2-inch copper or steel) | Licensed gas-fitter required (separate certification) | 1/2-inch drip leg and shutoff valve within 3 feet of appliance | Electrical circuit downgrade documentation (240V to 120V if applicable) | Small-appliance circuit upgrades if adding outlets (GFCI-protected) | $400–$900 building + gas permit combined | Gas-fitter certification fee $300–$600 (separate from permit) | 2-3 weeks plan review | 2 inspections (rough gas, final)

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Hobart's Climate Zone 5A Plumbing Requirements and Winter-Freeze Risks

Hobart sits in IECC Climate Zone 5A with a 36-inch frost depth, meaning all below-grade plumbing (water supply lines, drain lines) must be installed below the frost line to prevent freezing and rupture. For kitchen plumbing relocations, this affects how you route new drain and supply lines under the kitchen floor. If you're moving a sink to a new location and the drain line must travel horizontally under the kitchen floor slab (or in a crawlspace), the city's code enforces IRC P2722 drain-slope and sizing requirements strictly because poor slope or undersized pipes can trap standing water in winter, leading to freeze-damage complaints and follow-up enforcement actions. Hobart Building Department also requires that you document the frost depth on your plumbing plan (36 inches minimum) and show where all below-slab drains exit the foundation to the septic or municipal line.

The 2020 Indiana Plumbing Code (adopted by Hobart) also mandates that vent stacks serving kitchen sinks must extend 12 inches minimum above the highest opening (window or door) within 10 feet; in Hobart's climate, this is enforced to prevent back-pressure and odor issues in winter when snow can block vent caps. If your new island sink's vent stack is routed through the roof, it must terminate with a proper cap (not open end) and cannot be less than 6 inches above the roof surface in clear weather, per IRC P3113. Many homeowners propose interior vent stacks or soft vents (passive air-inlet valves), but Hobart's code requires a true vent stack penetrating the roof unless the kitchen is within 5 feet of an existing vent stack serving another fixture.

Drainage design for kitchen sinks in Hobart also accounts for the glacial-till soil composition (clay and silt, typical of Indiana). If your home uses a septic system (common in rural Hobart), the drain line from the kitchen sink must drain to the main septic tank, not to a separate gray-water system or French drain; Hobart does not permit alternative septic designs that bypass kitchen sink drain. The slope of the drain line from the sink P-trap to the septic tank or municipal line must be 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch per 12 feet of horizontal run; steeper slopes cause siphoning (losing the P-trap seal and allowing sewer gases to back into the house), while flatter slopes can cause backups in clay soil after frost thaw in spring when groundwater pressure is high.

Hobart's Plan-Review Process and Common Rejection Reasons

Hobart Building Department uses an online permit portal (accessible through the city website) that requires plan submittals in PDF format with clearly labeled sheets: one for building/framing, one for plumbing, one for electrical, and one for mechanical (if range hood is vented). The city's reviewers work on a first-in, first-out basis and aim for 10-15 business days to issue an initial review letter (approval, approval with conditions, or rejection). Most full kitchen remodels receive a rejection or 'corrections needed' letter on the first round because homeowners or contractors often miss one or more of the required details listed below. The most common rejections are: (1) missing or incomplete electrical plan showing two small-appliance 20-amp circuits, GFCI protection legend, and outlet spacing (no receptacle more than 48 inches from another on countertops); (2) plumbing plan missing trap-arm distance, vent-stack route, and roof termination detail; (3) building plan missing load-bearing wall engineer's letter if a wall is removed; (4) mechanical plan (if range hood is vented) missing duct diameter, roof termination detail, and backdraft damper specification.

Once you receive a corrections letter, you have 30 days to resubmit revised plans; resubmission typically takes 7-10 business days for re-review. If corrections are minor (e.g., adding circuit numbers or vent-stack label), the re-review is faster. If you make structural changes in response to corrections (e.g., the reviewer requires a larger beam or different duct routing), expect another 10-15 day review cycle. After approval, permits are issued and you can begin work immediately, but you cannot occupy any newly finished areas (or use new fixtures) until final inspection is passed. The city schedules inspections within 24-48 hours of your request (typically via phone call or portal submission) on weekdays only; some contractors schedule rough inspections back-to-back (same day) if multiple trades are ready, but final inspection is always last and typically takes 1-2 hours.

Hobart's Building Department also requires that all trades (electrician, plumber, HVAC if applicable) sign off on their rough inspections in writing; the inspector will not pass a rough electrical inspection if plumbing vent stacks are in the way, for example. This sequencing (plumbing first, then electrical, then framing/drywall) is standard, but it means any coordination issues between trades will delay the project. Many contractors in Hobart schedule a pre-rough meeting with all trades on site to walk through the plan and identify conflicts before any work begins; this adds a few hours but saves weeks of rework. Owner-builders pulling their own permits should budget for this coordination time and ensure licensed electricians and plumbers are on the same schedule.

City of Hobart Building Department
Hobart City Hall, Hobart, IN (exact street address available via city website or 411 lookup)
Phone: Contact Hobart City Hall main line or building permit line (verify via city website) | https://www.hobart.in.us (check for 'Building Permits' or 'Permit Portal' link)
Monday-Friday, 8 AM-5 PM (typical; verify with city for seasonal closures)

Common questions

Do I need a permit if I'm just replacing kitchen cabinets and countertops without moving plumbing?

No. Hobart Building Department does not require permits for cabinet and countertop replacement if the sink and plumbing fixture locations remain unchanged, and electrical outlets stay in the same spots. This is cosmetic-only work. However, if you're moving the sink location, adding new electrical outlets, or installing a new range hood with exterior venting, permits are required. To be safe, call the Building Department and describe your exact scope before proceeding — a 5-minute conversation can confirm whether you need a permit or not.

How much does a kitchen remodel permit cost in Hobart?

Permit costs in Hobart typically range from $300–$1,500 for a full kitchen remodel, depending on the scope and valuation. The fee is usually calculated as a percentage of the estimated project cost (1.5-2% in Hobart's case). A $25,000 remodel would cost roughly $375–$500 in permit fees; a $50,000 remodel would cost $750–$1,000. Add $400–$800 for a structural engineer's letter if you're removing a load-bearing wall, and $300–$600 for a gas-fitter's certification if you're adding a gas line. These are separate from the permit fees and are paid directly to the engineer or gas-fitter, not to the city.

Can I pull my own permit as an owner-builder in Hobart?

Yes, owner-builders can pull permits for owner-occupied residential homes in Hobart. You will still need to hire licensed electricians and plumbers to do the electrical and plumbing work (or to supervise if you have a license), but you can submit the building permit application yourself and be the responsible party for inspections. This saves the contractor's markup (typically 15-20%) on permit fees but does not reduce the total permit cost itself. You will still need to coordinate inspections and ensure all work meets code before final sign-off.

What inspections are required for a kitchen remodel in Hobart?

A full kitchen remodel typically requires four inspections in this order: (1) Rough Plumbing (vent stacks, drain lines, water supply roughed in before drywall), (2) Rough Electrical (circuits, outlets, GFCI protection roughed in before drywall), (3) Framing/Drywall (structural work, wall framing, drywall installed, wall openings sealed), and (4) Final (all fixtures installed, trim done, all systems functional). If you're removing a load-bearing wall, a separate Framing inspection occurs after the beam is installed to verify sizing and support. If you're venting a range hood to exterior, a Mechanical or HVAC inspection may occur. Each inspection requires 24-48 hours' notice to the Building Department.

How long does plan review take in Hobart for a kitchen remodel?

Initial plan review in Hobart takes 10-15 business days from submission. Most remodels receive a corrections letter (not approval) on the first round because one or more details are missing (e.g., GFCI protection legend on electrical plan, vent-stack route on plumbing plan). Resubmission takes another 7-10 business days. Total time from initial submission to permit issuance is typically 3-6 weeks. If you're having an engineer design a beam for a wall removal, add 1-2 weeks to the front end for the engineer's work before you even submit to the city.

Do I need a lead-paint disclosure for a kitchen remodel in a pre-1978 home in Hobart?

Yes. Hobart follows the EPA's pre-1978 lead-paint disclosure rules: if your home was built before 1978 and the remodel involves disturbing painted surfaces (drywall removal, wall demolition, scraping paint, etc.), you must provide a lead-paint disclosure form to any contractors or workers. The disclosure is not a permit requirement per se, but it is a legal requirement under federal law, and contractors can refuse to work without it. You do not need a lead test or remediation, just a signed disclosure acknowledging the risk.

What happens if I finish my kitchen remodel without getting a final inspection passed?

You cannot legally occupy or use newly finished areas (or newly installed fixtures like a sink or cooktop) until final inspection is passed. If a building inspector discovers unpermitted work or a kitchen without a final sign-off, you can be cited for code violations and ordered to remove finishes and rework the project. Insurance claims related to the kitchen may also be denied. Most lenders and title companies will flag unpermitted kitchen work during refinancing or sale, blocking the transaction. Getting final inspection passed is not optional — it protects you legally and financially.

Can I replace an electric cooktop with a gas cooktop without a permit?

No. Gas-line installation or modification requires a permit and certification in Hobart, even if you're just replacing one appliance. A licensed gas-fitter must run the new gas line, perform a pressure test and leak check, and file a certificate of completion with the city. This is separate from the building permit and typically costs $300–$600. The gas line must include a drip leg and shutoff valve within 3 feet of the cooktop per code. A simple appliance swap is one of the few kitchen changes that definitely requires a permit in Hobart.

Do I need an engineer's letter if I'm removing a 10-foot wall in my kitchen?

Yes. Hobart Building Department requires a structural engineer's letter for any load-bearing wall removal, regardless of span. There is no exemption for short spans or 'rule-of-thumb' beam sizes. The engineer must be a licensed Professional Engineer in Indiana, and the letter must specify the beam size, support points, design loads, and be stamped and signed. This costs $400–$800 and takes 1-2 weeks. The letter must be submitted with your building permit application; without it, your permit will be rejected.

What is the difference between GFCI protection at the outlet vs. GFCI protection at the breaker in a Hobart kitchen?

Both methods protect against electrical shock, but they work differently. A GFCI outlet is a special receptacle that detects ground faults and shuts off power; you install it in place of a standard outlet. A GFCI breaker is installed in the main electrical panel and protects an entire circuit. Hobart code (IRC E3801) requires GFCI protection on all kitchen countertop receptacles — you can achieve this by installing GFCI outlets themselves, or by protecting the outlets with a GFCI breaker on the circuit. The electrical plan must clearly indicate which method is used for each outlet (label 'GFCI outlet' or 'GFCI breaker'). GFCI outlets are more common because they protect only specific receptacles and allow other outlets on the same circuit to remain powered if the GFCI trips.

Disclaimer: This guide is based on research conducted in May 2026 using publicly available sources. Always verify current kitchen remodel (full) permit requirements with the City of Hobart Building Department before starting your project.