Do I need a permit for a full kitchen remodel in
Montgomery, Illinois?

You're adding a 4x8-foot island with a prep sink and seating; the island is positioned in the open kitchen space, does not require a new wall or load-bearing modification, but does require a new 1.5-inch drain line, a new cold-water supply line, and a new 20-amp electrical circuit (for the island's pendant lights and future outlets). The existing kitchen drains to a main line that runs under the slab, so the plumber will need to core-drill or saw-cut through the slab to tie the island sink drain into the main — a wet-vent connection is possible if the sink is within 5 feet of an existing vent stack (measured horizontally and vertically), which it is. The electrical work is straightforward: a new 20-amp branch circuit from the panel (already has spare breaker slots) to the island, with three 20-amp outlets spaced 48 inches apart and GFCI-protected. This is a standard 'island extension' remodel and triggers a building permit (for the island's structural support — typically a 4x4 post on a concrete pad below the slab, or joists and blocking if the slab is new) plus plumbing and electrical permits. The permit fee is around $600–$800 (based on a ~$40,000 estimated remodel cost: $30,000 cabinetry, $5,000 plumbing, $3,000 electrical, $2,000 countertops). Plan review takes 3–4 weeks; inspections (framing, plumbing rough, electrical rough, drywall/finish, final) are typically scheduled weekly starting 1–2 weeks after approval. Total timeline: permit approval 3–4 weeks, construction 4–6 weeks, inspections 6–8 weeks from start. The 1952 home is pre-1978, so lead-paint disclosure is required; the plumber and electrician will have minimal disruption to the rest of the home because runs are short (island is close to the existing panel and drain stack).

You're removing the wall between the kitchen and dining room to open up the space; that wall runs perpendicular to the floor joists (load-bearing) and sits directly above a basement rim joist. This is a structural modification requiring a sealed engineer's letter specifying the beam size (likely a double 2x10 or LVL beam rated for the joist load above), bearing points (must rest on either the existing basement wall or new posts at each end, bearing below the 42-inch frost line per Zone 5A requirements), and temporary bracing plan during removal. The cost of engineering is $800–$1,200; the cost of the beam and installation is $3,000–$5,000. Additionally, the gas range is being relocated from its current position (where the gas line runs) to the opposite side of the kitchen, requiring a new 3/4-inch gas line to be run through the wall or along the rim joist (exposed or hidden). Gas-line work must be done by a licensed gas fitter; the fitter will submit a separate mechanical permit showing the line size, pressure-drop calculation (IRC G2406), and the shutoff valve location (within 3 feet of the appliance, accessible). The building permit will be marked 'structural — engineer required' and will cost $1,200–$1,500 (about 2% of the estimated $60,000–$75,000 remodel: $30,000 cabinetry, $8,000 gas line + engineering, $5,000 electrical, $5,000 countertops, $15,000 framing/beam + labor). Plan review is 5–6 weeks because the engineer's drawings must be reviewed by a plan-checker licensed to review structural work, and the city may request clarifications on bearing details or temporary-bracing sequencing. The gas line modification adds another 1–2 weeks if the mechanical inspector wants site-specific details (pressure test, purging procedure). Once approved, framing and gas-line work must happen before drywall; the structural inspector will sign off on the beam installation and temporary bracing removal before drywall closure. Total timeline: 5–6 weeks plan review, 8–12 weeks construction and inspections. The 1985 ranch is post-1978, so no lead-paint disclosure is required.

You're replacing all cabinets and countertops, painting the walls, installing new LVL flooring, and replacing the refrigerator, dishwasher, and electric range with new models of the same capacity on the existing circuits. The new appliances plug into the existing receptacles (refrigerator on its dedicated circuit, dishwasher hard-wired to the existing 20-amp circuit, electric range hard-wired to the existing 240-volt circuit) and draw the same or slightly less amperage than the old ones. No walls are moved, no plumbing fixtures are relocated (sink stays in place), no new electrical circuits are added, and no gas lines are modified. This is classified as a 'cosmetic remodel' or 'cabinet and countertop replacement' and is exempt from building-permit requirements per the IRC and Montgomery's code adoption. However, because the home was built in 1972 (pre-1978), if you are selling the home, you must provide the buyer with an EPA lead-paint brochure; if you are keeping the home and just updating for yourself, no disclosure is needed. No permit is required, so no plan review, no inspections, and no permit fees. You can proceed immediately once you have contracts with the cabinet shop and contractors. Note: if the new range is significantly deeper or wider than the old one and requires moving the counter or cabinets more than a few inches, that may trigger a need for an electrical service upgrade (to ensure adequate counter space and appliance clearance per IRC E3701 countertop receptacle spacing); verify with the seller's existing electrical layout before finalizing appliance specs. Similarly, if you decide mid-project to relocate the sink to a new island or peninsula (even a temporary island), that triggers plumbing and electrical permits because the sink is being relocated. As long as all appliances stay on existing circuits and in their existing locations, this project is permit-free.