Do I need a permit for a full kitchen remodel in
Romulus, Michigan?

Romulus full kitchen remodel permits—the key details

Romulus requires all full kitchen remodels to pull three permits: building, electrical, and plumbing. The city's Building Department issues one permit number, but it acts as an umbrella covering all three trades. You cannot legally start work until all three plans are approved and you hold a signed permit card. The 2015 Michigan Building Code (the version Romulus adopted) governs structural changes, and the Michigan Electrical Code and Michigan Plumbing Code govern the electric and water work. If you remove or relocate a wall, the building permit requires proof that the wall is not load-bearing OR an engineered beam calc if it is. The city's plan-review team (typically 1–2 inspectors covering multiple departments) will flag missing details on first submission—most commonly incomplete electrical layouts, missing plumbing trap-arm diagrams, and range-hood termination details. Expect one revision cycle if you use a contractor; self-prepared drawings often trigger two.

Electrical work is the most commonly cited reason for plan rejection in Romulus kitchens. Michigan Electrical Code (which mirrors NEC) requires minimum two small-appliance branch circuits (15 amp) dedicated to counter outlets, plus a separate 20 amp circuit for the refrigerator, plus GFCI protection on every counter outlet and island outlet within 6 feet of a sink. Counter outlets cannot be more than 48 inches apart measured along the countertop. If you add an island or peninsula, it counts as countertop and must have its own GFCI outlet. If you're adding a dishwasher or disposal, each gets its own 20 amp circuit. Electric range typically pulls 50 amp at 240V; if you're relocating the range, the sub-panel may need an upgrade. The city's inspectors are familiar with these rules but will ask you to show them on a floor plan and electrical riser diagram before they sign off. Many homeowners skip this detail, submit a vague drawing, and get a revision request—delaying the job 2–3 weeks.

Plumbing is the second-highest rejection reason. If you're moving the sink, the city requires a plan showing the new trap location, vent routing, and hot/cold supply lines. Trap-arm distance from the sink is limited (typically 24 inches on a horizontal run, per IRC P3202), and the vent must be sized and routed so that it exits above the roof line or ties into the existing vent stack. Many remodelers try to minimize vent work by using island sinks with air-admittance valves (AAVs); these are legal in Michigan but require explicit approval on the plumbing plan and an inspection of the AAV installation before drywall closes in. If you're adding a gas range or range-top, you may need to reroute the gas line; the city requires a gas-line plan and a pressure-test report signed by a licensed plumber. Sump pumps, floor drains, and dishwasher drains all have specific sizing and connection rules; omitting these details is common and causes re-submittals.

Range-hood venting is a frequent sticking point. If the range hood ducted directly to the exterior (cutting through the exterior wall), the city requires a plan detail showing the duct routing, diameter, and termination cap. A simple note 'Range hood vents to exterior wall' is not enough; you must show the actual path, wall penetration, and cap type (typically a dampered wall cap). If the hood exhausts into a soffit, it must be clear of the roof eave. If you're venting through the roof, the ductwork must be insulated in climate zones 5 and 6 (Romulus is in both, depending on exact location relative to Pontiac) to prevent condensation dripping back into the ductwork during winter. The city's building inspector will visually verify duct diameter and cap type during the final inspection; sloppy ductwork (undersized, uninsulated, or incorrectly capped) fails final and must be corrected before sign-off.

Load-bearing wall removal is the most serious structural change. If you're opening up the kitchen by removing a wall, the city requires an engineered beam design signed by a Michigan-licensed professional engineer (PE) if the wall is load-bearing. The PE's letter must state the beam size, material, reaction points, and deflection. The city does not perform structural analysis; it only accepts the PE's work. If you claim the wall is non-load-bearing, the inspector may ask you to prove it—typically via existing floor plan or a site visit confirming that the wall runs perpendicular to joists and carries no load. Many homeowners guess wrong, submit work without a calc, and get a stop-work order. The permit fee does not include the PE's engineering letter (typically $400–$800), but it does include inspections of the beam installation. Plan for 2–3 weeks to get the engineering and another 1–2 weeks for the city to review it during the permit-application phase.

Three Romulus kitchen remodel (full) scenarios

Romulus Building Department's three-permit simultaneous-submission requirement

Unlike some Michigan cities that accept electrical and plumbing permits separately and sequentially, Romulus requires you to submit building, electrical, and plumbing plans at the same time. This is an informal but strict practice enforced by the department's intake staff. If you show up with only electrical plans, they will not accept them; they will ask you to return with building and plumbing as well. The logic is sound: building changes (wall removal, new openings) affect electrical layout and plumbing routing, and vice versa. Bundling them forces coordination upfront, reducing rework. However, this creates a bottleneck for homeowners or contractors who want to get started on quick tasks (like roughing electrical conduit) before plumbing is finalized. Plan for this: allocate 1–2 weeks before submitting permits to coordinate all three trades' drawings with your contractor or designer.

The city's Building Department is understaffed relative to permit volume (typical for mid-sized Michigan municipalities). Plan-review time is nominally 3–5 business days for intake, but actual review can take 2–3 weeks because the same inspector often handles building, plumbing, and electrical (or they're reviewed sequentially by different people). If your plans are incomplete, you'll get one revision request; a second revision signals a fundamental coordination problem and can trigger a meeting with the supervisor. Expect delays if you submit during peak seasons (April–July). The department does not offer online status tracking; you must call or visit in person to check progress.

The permit fee for a Romulus kitchen remodel is calculated at roughly 1.5–2% of declared project valuation, with a minimum base of $150–$300. If you declare $30,000, the fee is approximately $450–$600. If you declare $60,000, it's $900–$1,200. Be honest about valuation; the city cross-checks against contractor bids and material costs, and undervaluing can trigger a fee adjustment or inspector skepticism. The fee covers all three permits (building, electrical, plumbing) and covers all inspections (rough and final). Gas-line pressure testing is typically included in the plumbing permit scope, but if you need a separate mechanical permit for range-hood ventilation (rare for kitchens, but possible for commercial-grade hoods), that's an add-on ($100–$200).

Electrical code details specific to Michigan kitchens and Romulus enforcement

Michigan Electrical Code (MEC) is based on the 2020 National Electrical Code (NEC) with some state-level modifications. Romulus enforces MEC as adopted by the state. For kitchens, the critical rules are: (1) two small-appliance branch circuits (15 amp minimum, 20 amp preferred) dedicated to kitchen countertop receptacles; (2) at least one 20 amp individual circuit for the refrigerator; (3) GFCI protection on every outlet within 6 feet of a sink (including islands and peninsulas); (4) outlets spaced no more than 48 inches apart along countertops; (5) a separate 20 amp circuit for the dishwasher; (6) a separate 20 amp circuit for the garbage disposal; (7) electric range on a 50 amp 240V circuit (or gas range on a 120V circuit for igniter/clock). Romulus inspectors verify these requirements by reviewing the electrical plan and then walking the installation during rough and final inspections.

A common mistake homeowners and DIY electricians make is assuming the existing kitchen circuits are adequate. If the original kitchen had one 20 amp circuit serving countertop outlets, that's insufficient by modern code. When you remodel, the code requires you to upgrade to two circuits minimum. This means new sub-panel work, new breakers, and new conduit runs—often an unexpected $2,000–$4,000 cost. Romulus inspectors will not sign off on rough electrical if the circuits don't meet the two-circuit minimum. The electrical plan you submit must show the sub-panel feed, breaker sizes, and wire gauge (typically 12 AWG for 20 amp circuits, 10 AWG for 30 amp). If your existing panel is full, you may need a sub-panel or a larger main panel; this is a cost drivers contractors often skip in initial quotes.

GFCI outlet placement is a second frequent failure point. The code states 'within 6 feet of the sink,' measured along the countertop. If you have a 12-foot-long kitchen with a sink on one end, outlets at the far end (10+ feet away) still need GFCI protection because they are 'within the kitchen' and 'in reach of the sink area.' Many contractors install a GFCI outlet at the sink and assume non-GFCI outlets elsewhere are fine; that's wrong. Romulus inspectors will red-tag the outlet and require GFCI retrofit. The simplest solution is to install GFCI-protected outlets at every location or to use a GFCI breaker at the sub-panel (which protects all outlets on that circuit downstream). The cost difference is minimal, but the code knowledge is essential.

Common questions