What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)
- Stop-work orders in Draper carry $300–$500 fines per day, plus mandatory tear-off and re-inspection under permit — easily doubling the cost of skipping the permit upfront.
- Homeowner insurance denial: most Utah carriers will not cover water damage or collapse during unpermitted roof replacement, and some will deny claims retroactively if discovery occurs during a claim adjustment ($5,000–$25,000+ loss uncovered).
- Property sale disclosure: Draper requires full disclosure of unpermitted work to buyers; failure to disclose is a felony in Utah (UCA 76-10-2105), and buyers frequently pull permits in title searches — expect $10,000–$50,000 price reduction or deal collapse.
- Lender/refinance block: unpermitted roof work will halt any FHA or conventional refinance in Utah; appraisers flag permit records, and lenders will require removal or bonding ($1,500–$3,000 minimum).
Draper roof replacement permits — the key details
Inspection sequence and timeline matter for project scheduling. Once a permit is issued, you must schedule an in-progress (rough-in) inspection before the underlayment is installed or the entire roof is covered. Draper inspectors will verify deck nailing, roof-to-wall connections, and absence of a fourth layer (if replacement). This inspection typically happens 1–3 days after framing is complete and takes 30–45 minutes. The final inspection occurs after the roof is fully shingled, flashing is installed, and gutter/trim is complete. The inspector checks for proper fastening, full coverage, flashing details at penetrations (vents, chimneys, skylights), and clean-up. Inspection appointments in Draper are scheduled online or by phone; response times are 2–5 business days. Plan 2–4 weeks total from permit issuance to final certificate of occupancy, depending on weather and inspector availability. If your contractor fails the rough-in inspection (common issues: undersized fasteners, missing ice/water shield, deck nailing in wrong pattern), the cost to re-inspect is $75–$150, plus labor to fix the deficiency.
Three Draper roof replacement scenarios
The three-layer rule in Draper and why it matters for snow/seismic zones
Draper's frost depth and snow load add another layer of scrutiny to underlayment and flashing. IRC R905.11 (ice/water shield in freeze climates) applies here: self-adhering, waterproof underlayment must extend at least 24 inches from the eave (measured up the slope) in areas where the average January temperature is below 35°F. Draper's average January low is ~20°F; the city is firmly in the freeze zone. If your roof has gutters, the ice/water shield should begin at the edge of the gutter and extend upward 24 inches. This membrane prevents ice dams (meltwater refreezing at the eave edge) from backing up under shingles. Draper inspectors will verify this during rough-in inspection, checking the ice/water shield roll is present and extends to the required height. If it's missing or undersized, the inspector will flag it as a deficiency and require correction. Cost: ice/water shield is ~$0.50–$0.80/sq ft; for a 1,800 sq ft roof, that's $900–$1,440 for underlayment over the entire roof. This is a code-compliance cost, not optional. Some contractors try to skimp (using roofing felt instead of ice/water shield) to shave budget; Draper rejects this without exception.
Material change inspections and seismic tie-downs in Draper's Wasatch Fault zone
Lightweight metal standing-seam roofing (16-gauge or thinner, mill-finish steel, ~1.5 psf) often requires less stringent structural review than clay tile (~12 psf) or concrete tile (~15 psf). A structural engineer may approve lightweight metal without tie-down upgrades if the existing trusses and connections are adequate, which they often are for homes built post-1990 in Draper. However, the engineer must verify; there's no blanket exemption. Stone-coated steel (a hybrid) is heavier (~2.5 psf) and may trigger upgrades. Always budget for the engineer's time (1–2 hours at $150–$250/hour) and confirm with the contractor whether upgrades are anticipated before finalizing the bid. If upgrades are required and the contractor didn't account for them in the bid, change-order disputes can arise. Draper Building Department will not issue a permit without the engineer's clearance on a material-change project; this is a hard stop, not negotiable.
1435 East Pioneer Road, Draper, UT 84020
Phone: (801) 576-6181 | https://www.draper.ut.us/permit-applications (verify current URL with city)
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM–5:00 PM (Mountain Time)
Common questions
Does Draper allow roof overlays, or do I have to tear off?
Draper allows overlays only if the existing roof is confirmed to be a single layer. If you have two or more layers (common in older Draper homes), tear-off is mandatory per IRC R907.4 — no exceptions. If you're unsure of layer count, schedule a pre-construction meeting with Draper Building Department; they can do a visual inspection or guide you to confirm layer count before you commit to a bid.
What's the cost of a roof permit in Draper?
Draper charges roughly $0.10–$0.12 per square foot of roof area. A typical 1,800 sq ft roof costs $180–$216 for the permit fee. Plan review ($50–$100) and structural engineer fees (if material change, $500–$700) are additional. Total permit-related costs for a standard asphalt-to-asphalt replacement are $180–$300; material-change projects are $920–$1,320.
How long does Draper's permit process take for a roof replacement?
Standard asphalt-to-asphalt replacements (like-for-like, single-layer tearoff) are processed over-the-counter in 3–5 business days. Material-change projects require structural review and take 5–7 business days. Once the permit is issued, plan 2–3 weeks for the actual roofing work and inspections (rough-in + final). Total project timeline: 3–4 weeks from application to certificate of occupancy.
Do I need ice/water shield in Draper?
Yes. IRC R905.11 requires a self-adhering, waterproof underlayment to extend 24 inches from the eaves in freeze climates. Draper's average January temperature is ~20°F, well below 35°F, so ice/water shield is mandatory. Draper inspectors verify this during rough-in inspection. Cost: ~$0.50–$0.80 per sq ft.
What happens if my contractor didn't pull a permit and I just found out?
Contact Draper Building Department immediately. If the work is recent (within the statute of limitations, typically 1–2 years), you may be able to apply for a 'permit for work performed' and schedule a retroactive inspection for ~$150–$300 plus standard fees. If discovered during a property sale or refinance, disclosure is mandatory in Utah, and buyers/lenders will require proof of permitted work or removal/bonding. Unpermitted roof work can delay closing by months and cost $5,000–$15,000 in remediation.
Do I need a structural engineer review if I'm changing from asphalt shingles to metal?
Yes, if you're changing material types (shingles to metal, tile, slate, etc.), Draper Building Department requires a structural engineer to verify the roof framing and connections are adequate. Lightweight metal standing-seam (1.5 psf) may be approved without tie-down upgrades; heavy materials (clay tile, concrete) will likely require seismic tie-down upgrades per IBC 1604.8. Cost: $500–$700 for the engineer; $200–$400 for tie-down straps if required.
Is a roof repair (patching) permitted in Draper?
Repairs under 25% of roof area with like-for-like material are exempt from permitting. A small patch (under 200–300 sq ft on a typical Draper roof) doesn't require a permit. However, if the repair uncovers a second or third layer (indicating a prior overlay), you must disclose this to the city when you plan your next full replacement. Any future full-roof work will trigger mandatory tear-off of all layers.
Can I do a DIY roof replacement in Draper as an owner-builder?
Owner-builders can pull roof permits in Utah for owner-occupied residential property. However, Draper Building Department still requires the same code compliance (underlayment specs, fastening patterns, flashing details, ice/water shield, etc.) and inspections. If you lack roofing experience, DIY work is risky — inspectors are thorough, and failed inspections delay occupancy and may trigger removal/replacement at your own cost. Most owner-builders hire a licensed roofer to do the work and coordinate permits themselves to save money.
What if I discover three layers when I start my roof replacement?
Stop work immediately and call Draper Building Department. If the permit was issued for a single-layer overlay and you discover three layers during tear-down, the inspector will issue a stop-work order and require full tear-off of all layers before new roofing is installed. The cost of correcting this mid-project (labor for full tear-off, disposal fees, timeline extension) is severe. This is why a pre-bid roof-edge inspection is prudent — confirm layer count before committing to a contractor bid.
Do I need a permit for new gutters or flashing-only work?
Gutter and flashing repair/replacement without roof covering changes are generally exempt from permitting. However, if you're installing gutters as part of a roof replacement, they're typically included in the roof permit. If you're adding gutters to a roof that previously had none, or upgrading gutter size/material, confirm with Draper Building Department — some gutter work is flagged under drainage/grading code (IBC 1612) if it affects foundation drainage. To avoid confusion, include gutter specs in your roof permit application if you're doing them simultaneously.
More permit guides
National guides for the most-asked homeowner permit projects. Each goes deep on code thresholds, common rejections, fees, and timeline.
Roof Replacement
Layer count, deck inspection, ice dam protection, hurricane straps.
Deck
Attached vs freestanding, footings, frost depth, ledger, height/area thresholds.
Kitchen Remodel
Plumbing, electrical, gas line, ventilation, structural changes.
Solar Panels
Structural review, electrical interconnection, fire setbacks, AHJ approval.
Fence
Height/material limits, sight triangles, pool barriers, setbacks.
HVAC
Equipment changeouts, ductwork, combustion air, ventilation, IMC sections.
Bathroom Remodel
Plumbing rough-in, ventilation, electrical (GFCI/AFCI), waterproofing.
Electrical Work
Subpermits, NEC sections, panel upgrades, GFCI/AFCI, who can pull.
Basement Finishing
Egress, ceiling height, electrical, moisture barriers, occupancy rules.
Room Addition
Foundation, footings, framing, electrical/plumbing extensions, structural.
Accessory Dwelling Units (ADU)
When permits are required, code thresholds, JADU vs ADU, electrical/plumbing/parking rules.
New Windows
Egress, header sizing, structural cuts, fire-rating, energy code.
Heat Pump
Electrical capacity, refrigerant handling, condensate, IECC compliance.
Hurricane Retrofit
Roof straps, garage door bracing, opening protection, FL OIR product approval.
Pool
Barriers, alarms, electrical bonding, plumbing, separation distances.
Fireplace & Wood Stove
Hearth, clearances, chimney, gas line work, NFPA 211.
Sump Pump
Discharge location, electrical, backup options, plumbing tie-in.
Mini-Split
Refrigerant lines, condensate, electrical disconnect, line set sleeve.