What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)
- City inspector can issue a stop-work order (fine $250–$500) if a neighbor reports unpermitted roofing; you'll owe double permit fees ($300–$700) to legalize work retroactively.
- Insurance claim denial: if a roof leak or storm damage claim happens within 5 years of unpermitted re-roofing, your insurer may refuse to pay, citing code violations — typical claim value at risk is $5,000–$25,000.
- Resale disclosure requirement: Minnesota requires sellers to disclose all unpermitted work (or pay the buyer a credit of $2,000–$8,000 at closing) — title companies flag unpermitted roofing as a lender blocker.
- Lender/refinance denial: if you refinance or take out a home-equity loan after unpermitted roofing, the lender will order an inspection and may require tear-off and re-do under permit before closing, costing $8,000–$15,000.
Faribault roof replacement permits — the key details
Minnesota State Building Code (which Faribault enforces) requires a permit for any 'reroofing' — defined as covering 25% or more of the roof, any tear-off-and-replace, or any structural deck repair (IRC R907 and IBC Section 1511). A permit is also mandatory if you're changing roof material (e.g., asphalt shingles to metal or tile), even if the area is under 25%. Repairs involving patching, flashing replacement, or gutter work on fewer than roughly 10 squares (10 x 100 square feet = 1,000 sq ft) of roof are typically exempt if no tear-off is involved. However, the city's definition of 'repair' is strict: if the work involves removing any existing shingles, consider it a tear-off, which triggers the permit requirement. The reason for this threshold is IRC R907.4, which prohibits installing new shingles over more than two existing layers — Faribault inspectors routinely stop work when a third layer is discovered during deck inspection. This is a climate-driven rule: Minnesota's freeze-thaw cycles and snow load can accelerate deterioration if too many layers trap moisture. If you discover a third layer during the project, you'll either tear off all layers or abandon the project — there's no waiver in Faribault.
Faribault's Building Department uses a two-inspection model for roof permits. The first inspection (called 'Deck Inspection') happens after you remove old shingles and before you install underlayment and new shingles — the inspector verifies deck nailing, checks for rot or structural damage, confirms there are only two existing layers, and spots-checks flashing details. This inspection typically takes 1–2 business days to schedule and occurs within 24–48 hours of your request. The second inspection (final) happens after all roofing material is installed, shingles are nailed and sealed, flashing is sealed with sealant (not just nail pops), and gutters are reattached. The city requires that ice-and-water shield (a peel-and-stick membrane per ASTM D1970) be installed along the eaves to a height specified in the Minnesota code — typically 24 inches in Faribault, or 2 feet beyond the interior wall line, whichever is greater. This is critical in climate zones 6A/7: ice dams are common, and the shield prevents water backup into the attic. Your permit application must state the underlayment type (synthetic, felt, or specialty), the fastening pattern for shingles (typically 4–6 nails per shingle per manufacturer specs), and confirm that all flashing details (including valleys, vents, and chimney boots) will be sealed with sealant and not just caulked. If these details are missing from your application, Faribault will request a revision before issuing the permit — expect a 3–5 day turnaround.
Material changes require additional scrutiny. If you're upgrading from 3-tab asphalt shingles to architectural or premium shingles, or switching to metal roofing, Faribault's Building Department may require a structural engineer's letter confirming the deck can handle the additional weight (metal and high-end shingles weigh 2–3 times more than 3-tab asphalt). For tile or slate, an engineer's letter is mandatory — typical cost is $800–$1,500 — and a short plan review (3–7 days) is required. The city also requires that metal roofing include a secondary water barrier (ice-and-water shield) even though metal is considered weather-resistant; this is per Minnesota State Building Code Section 1504.2. If you're installing a metal roof, you'll also need to specify fastening method (standing seam vs. corrugated vs. metal shingles), fastener type (stainless steel or galvanized, not plain steel), and confirm that all seams are sealed or mechanically locked. These specs must be on the permit application; missing them causes a rejection and re-submission delay (2–3 days). Faribault does not currently require 'cool roofs' (high solar reflectance), but the 2024 code cycle may introduce that requirement — confirm with the Building Department if your project timeline extends into late 2024.
Underlayment and ice-and-water shield specifications are the second-most common rejection in Faribault after undisclosed third layers. Minnesota's climate (freeze-thaw cycles, 60 inches of frost depth in some parts of the city, and average annual snow load of 35+ pounds per square foot) creates high risk of ice damming. Your permit application must explicitly state: (1) underlayment type and manufacturer (e.g., 'Synthetic underlayment per ASTM D1970, non-bituminous'); (2) ice-and-water shield brand and coverage (e.g., 'Grace WeatherLock or Tamko Premium Plus, 24 inches along all eaves'); (3) fastener type for shingles (e.g., '0.375-inch diameter galvanized coil nails, 1.25 inches long, 6 per shingle per GAF specs'); and (4) sealant type for flashing (e.g., 'polyurethane or silicone sealant per ASTM C920, applied to all flashing penetrations'). If you're working with a contractor, confirm they're providing a specification sheet or product list; if you're owner-builder, many manufacturers (GAF, Owens Corning, Tamko) provide free spec sheets on their websites. Faribault inspectors will ask to see product boxes or receipts at final inspection to verify materials match the application — bring documentation to the site.
Owner-builder roof replacements are allowed in Faribault for owner-occupied single-family homes, but you'll need to pull the permit yourself (the city does not allow unlicensed contractors to pull permits on behalf of owners). You must obtain a Minnesota home improvement license exemption (available for owner-occupied residential projects under $50,000 — roofing typically qualifies). Visit the Minnesota Department of Labor and Industry website to confirm current requirements; Faribault Building Department staff can point you to the right state form. You'll still be subject to all inspections, code compliance, and permitting fees — there's no cost break for owner-builder, but you avoid contractor licensing fees if you do the work yourself or hire relatives. If you hire a roofing contractor, they must be Minnesota-licensed (check the state licensing board), and they should pull the permit — ask for the permit number before they start work. If a contractor tells you 'we don't pull permits for simple re-roofs,' that's a red flag; all reroofing in Minnesota requires a permit under state law.
Three Faribault roof replacement scenarios
Why Faribault requires ice-and-water shield on all roofs (even metal) — and why inspectors care about the 24-inch minimum
Faribault sits at the boundary of IECC Climate Zones 6A and 7, with freezing temperatures from November through March and occasional back-to-back freeze-thaw cycles in spring. The city's average annual snowfall is 48–52 inches, and roof snow load design requirements are 35+ pounds per square foot. These conditions create ideal ice-dam conditions: snow sits on the roof, heat loss from the attic melts the bottom layer, water runs down until it hits the colder eaves overhang (which extends outside the insulation envelope), refreezes, and builds up into a dam. Ice-damming can force water backward under the shingles and into the attic within hours. In Faribault's history, major ice-dam damage claims have cost homeowners $5,000–$15,000 each.
Minnesota State Building Code (Section 1504.2) requires a 'secondary water barrier' (ice-and-water shield, or peel-and-stick membrane per ASTM D1970) on all roofs in cold climates. Faribault interprets 'secondary water barrier' as a continuous membrane of non-bituminous synthetic material or rubberized asphalt, installed along the eaves and extended 24 inches inboard from the eaves edge, or 2 feet beyond the interior wall line, whichever is greater. The reason for 24 inches is that this depth covers the typical rafter span from the exterior wall to the roof's drip edge, accounting for typical attic floor construction and overhang depth. Inspectors will ask you to mark the shield installation with chalk or tape to verify coverage during the deck inspection — they'll measure from the edge of the roof and confirm the membrane goes up at least 24 inches.
A common mistake: homeowners or contractors install ice-and-water shield only at the eaves edge and think they're done. Faribault inspectors will reject this at final inspection if the shield doesn't extend the full 24 inches. Another mistake: using felt underlayment instead of synthetic, and assuming felt is 'good enough.' Minnesota code now requires synthetic in most applications; felt is permitted but is inferior in freeze-thaw performance and may cause the inspector to ask for an alternate specification. Bring documentation of your ice-and-water shield product to the deck inspection so the inspector can verify the brand and specs match your permit application. If you change products mid-project (e.g., were going to use Grace WeatherLock but switched to Tamko Premium Plus), notify Faribault and get a quick approval or written okay — surprises at inspection cause delays.
How Faribault's 60-inch frost depth (in north areas) affects deck preparation and flashing in reroofing projects
North Faribault (climate zone 7) experiences frost depths of 60 inches in some areas, driven by the region's glacial geology and winter temperatures that drop to -20°F or colder. This affects reroofing in two ways that inspectors watch closely. First, the deep frost line means that any structural deck work (re-nailing, sistering of rotted rafters, or replacement of plywood) must account for the possibility of seasonal settling. If frost heave causes the house to shift over winter, new flashing and sealant joints can crack or separate. Faribault inspectors often ask: 'Is there evidence of previous water damage or rot on the rafters?' and 'Are the eaves level?' If the deck shows signs of ice-dam damage (dark stains, water marks, mold on rafter tails), the inspector will recommend that you address any structural decay before re-roofing, because new shingles alone won't prevent further damage if the deck is compromised. This can delay your project by 3–10 days if sistering or localized plywood replacement is needed.
Second, flashing details around vents and chimneys must account for freeze-thaw expansion and contraction. Metal flashing expands and contracts; sealants crack. In climate zone 7, Faribault requires that all flashing be sealed with polyurethane or silicone sealant (ASTM C920 Grade NS or higher), NOT caulk alone. Caulk fails in Faribault's climate within 2–3 years. Your permit application and final inspection must specify the flashing sealant type. Vent pipes (roof jacks) must be re-sealed with a rubber collar or flashing boot, not just caulked around the top. Chimney flashing must be step-flashed (not counter-flashed with caulk) and sealed with polyurethane sealant at the step-flashing base and at the counterflashing top. If you're using a contractor, ask them to bring product documentation for the sealant — Faribault inspectors often request photos or the actual product box to verify the sealant is rated for exterior use in freeze-thaw climates.
Gutters and downspouts also factor into frost-depth decisions. Ice dams and snow melt can overflow gutters and refreeze at the fascia board. Faribault doesn't mandate gutter replacement with re-roofing, but inspectors will ask: 'Are gutters functioning and free of debris?' If gutters are rusted or undersized, water runoff during spring snowmelt can back up into soffit vents and attic. While not a permit blocker, it's worth addressing during the re-roof project — the cost to add or replace gutters is $500–$1,500 and can prevent $3,000–$8,000 in attic moisture damage down the road.
415 Main Street, Faribault, MN 55021 (or check Faribault city website for current building/planning office address)
Phone: (507) 668-9700 or City Hall main line — ask for Building Inspection / Permitting | Check https://www.ci.faribault.mn.us/ or contact city hall for online permit portal or application process
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM–5:00 PM (verify on city website for holiday closures)
Common questions
Do I need a permit if I'm just replacing gutters and a few shingles?
If the work is fewer than 10 squares (1,000 sq ft) and involves patching only — no tear-off — you likely don't need a permit. However, if any existing shingles are removed (even a small tear-off), Faribault treats it as reroofing and you need a permit. Gutter replacement alone (no roof work) is exempt. When in doubt, call the Faribault Building Department to describe your scope — they'll give you a clear yes or no.
My contractor says they can install new shingles over the existing two layers without tearing off. Is that allowed in Faribault?
No. Minnesota State Building Code IRC R907.4 prohibits installing new shingles over more than two existing layers. If there are already two layers on your roof, you must tear off all old shingles down to the deck before installing new ones. Faribault inspectors will stop work and require a tear-off if they find more than two layers during the deck inspection. It's much cheaper to plan for a tear-off in the permit than to discover it mid-project.
What if I upgrade to metal roofing — will that cost more in permit fees?
Permit fees are the same (based on roof square footage), but a material change to metal triggers a 7–14 day plan review hold and requires a structural engineer's letter ($800–$1,200) confirming the deck can support the weight. Plan an extra 2–3 weeks in your timeline and budget $1,000–$1,500 for the engineer. If you're in the historic district, confirm that metal roofing is allowed — some historic overlays require standing-seam only.
Do I need to tear off both layers, or can I just cover the top layer?
You must tear off all existing layers down to the deck. This is required by IRC R907.4 and enforced in Faribault. Tearing off ensures the new deck is sound, allows inspection for rot or structural damage, and ensures the new ice-and-water shield and underlayment are installed correctly per code. Tear-off labor typically costs $1,500–$3,000 depending on roof size and disposal.
What is ice-and-water shield, and why do I need it in Minnesota?
Ice-and-water shield is a peel-and-stick membrane (ASTM D1970) that prevents water from backing up under shingles during ice dams. Minnesota code requires it on all roofs, extended 24 inches from the eaves edge. Faribault inspectors will verify coverage at the deck inspection. It costs $100–$200 per roll and is essential in Faribault's freeze-thaw climate — skipping it voids your permit and exposes you to ice-dam water damage ($3,000–$8,000).
How long does the whole roof permit and inspection process take in Faribault?
For a standard like-for-like asphalt shingle replacement with complete specs, 7–10 days (permit same day or next day, deck inspection within 2–3 days, final inspection 2–3 days after deck approval). Material changes or tear-offs involving plan review add 7–14 days. If deck damage is found, add 3–5 days for repair. Plan 2–4 weeks to be safe.
Can I do my own roof replacement, or do I have to hire a contractor?
Yes, you can do it yourself if you're the owner of an owner-occupied home. You'll pull the permit (no contractor license required), and you'll still need to pass two inspections. Roofing is physically demanding and risky — falling and injuries are common — so many homeowners hire a licensed contractor even if they're allowed to DIY. A contractor should pull the permit themselves; confirm they have the permit number before they start.
What happens if the inspector finds rot or structural damage when they inspect the deck?
The inspector will flag it and require localized repair (sistering of rotted rafters, plywood replacement, or re-nailing) before underlayment and new shingles can go down. This adds 3–5 days and $500–$2,500 to your project. North Faribault roofs often have frost-heave and ice-dam damage — budget for possible repairs and confirm your contractor can handle structural work or can arrange for a carpenter.
Do I have to use synthetic underlayment, or can I use felt?
Minnesota code permits either synthetic (preferred) or felt, but Faribault may ask for clarification if you specify felt — synthetic is more durable in freeze-thaw climates and is the industry standard now. Synthetic costs $50–$100 more per project but lasts longer and resists moisture better. Confirm your material choice in the permit application to avoid rejection.
What is the main reason Faribault rejects roof permit applications?
Incomplete underlayment or ice-and-water shield specifications, and undisclosed third layers (discovered at inspection). Second most common: missing flashing or sealant details. Always bring product documentation, confirm your ice-and-water shield extends 24 inches from eaves, and disclose all existing layers up front. Faribault reviews applications quickly if specs are complete — most rejections are due to missing info, not code violations.
More permit guides
National guides for the most-asked homeowner permit projects. Each goes deep on code thresholds, common rejections, fees, and timeline.
Roof Replacement
Layer count, deck inspection, ice dam protection, hurricane straps.
Deck
Attached vs freestanding, footings, frost depth, ledger, height/area thresholds.
Kitchen Remodel
Plumbing, electrical, gas line, ventilation, structural changes.
Solar Panels
Structural review, electrical interconnection, fire setbacks, AHJ approval.
Fence
Height/material limits, sight triangles, pool barriers, setbacks.
HVAC
Equipment changeouts, ductwork, combustion air, ventilation, IMC sections.
Bathroom Remodel
Plumbing rough-in, ventilation, electrical (GFCI/AFCI), waterproofing.
Electrical Work
Subpermits, NEC sections, panel upgrades, GFCI/AFCI, who can pull.
Basement Finishing
Egress, ceiling height, electrical, moisture barriers, occupancy rules.
Room Addition
Foundation, footings, framing, electrical/plumbing extensions, structural.
Accessory Dwelling Units (ADU)
When permits are required, code thresholds, JADU vs ADU, electrical/plumbing/parking rules.
New Windows
Egress, header sizing, structural cuts, fire-rating, energy code.
Heat Pump
Electrical capacity, refrigerant handling, condensate, IECC compliance.
Hurricane Retrofit
Roof straps, garage door bracing, opening protection, FL OIR product approval.
Pool
Barriers, alarms, electrical bonding, plumbing, separation distances.
Fireplace & Wood Stove
Hearth, clearances, chimney, gas line work, NFPA 211.
Sump Pump
Discharge location, electrical, backup options, plumbing tie-in.
Mini-Split
Refrigerant lines, condensate, electrical disconnect, line set sleeve.