What happens if you skip the permit (and you needed one)
- Stop-work orders and fines: Highland Code Enforcement can issue a $250–$500 citation and demand you stop work mid-project, leading to penalty fees and rework costs that exceed the original $300–$800 permit fee.
- Insurance claim denial: A major roof replacement done without permit is grounds for homeowner's insurance to deny a water-damage claim — potentially $10,000–$50,000 exposure if water enters the attic within 3 years.
- Resale disclosure and title issues: Utah law requires disclosure of unpermitted work; buyers can demand $2,000–$10,000 credit or walk, and refinancing lenders will flag the unpermitted roof and require remediation before loan approval.
- Structural lien and forced tear-off: If a contractor claims non-payment on unpermitted work, they can file a mechanic's lien; the city can also order tear-off and re-do under permit, costing $15,000–$30,000.
Highland roof replacement permits — the key details
IRC R907.4, adopted by Highland in the 2020 IRC, is the critical rule: if your existing roof has three layers of material, you must tear off all existing layers before installing new shingles. Many Highland homes built in the 1990s and early 2000s have two layers already; adding a third violates code and requires a permit and tear-off. The inspector will walk the roof during the pre-permit meeting or framing inspection and count layers by driving a roofing nail or examining an edge. If the inspector finds a third layer after you've started work, work stops, you pay a stop-work fine, and you must tear off and restart — a $3,000–$5,000 setback. Even if you have only one or two layers, any tear-off-and-replace (not overlay) requires a permit. This is the single most common reason Highland homeowners file late: they assume 'just replacing shingles' doesn't need a permit, then discover mid-project that the old shingles must come off first.
Underlayment and ice-water-shield specifications are non-negotiable in Highland due to elevation, frost depth, and ice-dam risk. IRC R905.1.1 requires a self-adhering, ice-water-protective membrane at least 24 inches from the eave (or the full eave if the eave is in a climate where water will back up under the shingles due to ice dams). Highland inspectors interpret this aggressively: they expect you to extend ice-water-shield to the entire eave on every slope, plus 24 inches up the roof plane. Underlayment must be Type I (asphalt-saturated) or better; roof-wrap synthetics are acceptable if rated for your roof pitch and are properly nailed or stapled per manufacturer (typically 12-inch spacing along fastening patterns). Fastening pattern is specified in the permit drawings: most inspectors require 4–6 fasteners per 10-square-foot section for underlayment, plus H-clip nailing on sheathing if the deck is blocked sheathing (common in 1970s–1990s Highland homes). Failure to spec underlayment or fastening in your permit application leads to automatic rejection — you'll have to resubmit with a roofing contractor's signed detail sheet or engineer's note.
Material changes — moving from asphalt shingles to metal or tile — require structural evaluation and are flagged for special inspection. If you're upgrading to metal shingles or standing seam, or to concrete/clay tile, you must submit a structural engineer's letter confirming the existing roof framing can support the new load (metal is 20–30 lbs/100 sq ft; tile is 900–1,200 lbs/100 sq ft). For tile, this is mandatory; for metal, it depends on your existing rafter size and spacing — many 1980s–1990s Highland homes have 2x4 or 2x6 rafters on 16-inch or 24-inch centers, which are marginal for metal and often require reinforcement. The structural letter costs $500–$1,500; if reinforcement is needed, add $3,000–$8,000 for blocking, sister rafters, or collar ties. The permit won't be issued without this document. Asphalt-to-asphalt replacements do not require structural review (unless there's visible sagging or water damage to the deck).
Seismic tie-down and deck evaluation: Because Highland straddles the Wasatch Fault, inspectors also review existing roof attachments for seismic compliance. If your home was built before 1990, the roof may not have hurricane/seismic straps tying the truss or rafter system to the walls. These are not explicitly required on an existing home unless you're doing a full structural retrofit, but inspectors will call them out and may recommend them as a courtesy — they cost $100–$300 per tie-down. Deck inspection is required during the tear-off: if the inspector finds rot, water damage, or soft spots, they'll write a stop-work order until you patch or replace the damaged sheathing (often 1–3 sheets, $200–$600). This is common in Highland due to ice-dam leaks over the past 15 years; budget for it.
Permit application and timeline: File with the City of Highland Building Department (online portal or in-person at city hall). Submittals need: a roof plan showing the roof area in squares, proposed material (shingle type, color, fastening pattern), underlayment spec, ice-water-shield extent, and contractor's license number (or owner-builder affidavit if you're doing it yourself on your own home). Review time is 3–5 business days for like-for-like replacements; 1–2 weeks if there's a material change or structural question. Permit fee is typically $150–$400 (based on roof area or valuation — confirm with the city; roughly $0.50–$1.50 per square foot of roof). Once approved, you have 180 days to start work. Inspections: framing/deck (after tear-off, before underlayment), underlayment/fastening (after underlayment is down), and final (after shingles and flashings are complete). Most single-family homes finish framing and underlayment inspection in one trip; final inspection is 3–5 days after completion.
Three Highland roof replacement scenarios
Highland's three-layer rule and why it matters for your roof
IRC R907.4, adopted by Highland in the 2020 IRC, prohibits installing a new roof covering over existing roof coverings if the resulting assembly would have three or more layers. This rule exists because layered roofs trap heat and moisture, leading to premature failure and hidden rot in the deck. Highland inspectors enforce this strictly: before you file a permit, your contractor should do a field probe — drive a roofing nail at the drip edge or low spot and count the layers visually. Many Highland homes built in the 1990s have two asphalt layers already; you cannot add a third without removing all layers.
If you discover a third layer during the tear-off, work stops. The inspector issues a notice of violation, you must tear off all layers (not just the top two), and re-apply for a permit to re-roof the exposed deck. This adds 3–7 days and $1,500–$3,000 to your project. To avoid this, get a detailed layer count and submit it with your permit application. Most contractors won't probe for you — they assume they can overlay — so insist on a visual inspection before you file.
The three-layer rule also applies to tile, slate, metal, and cedar shake. If you're upgrading materials (shingles to metal or tile), you must tear off all existing layers regardless of how many there are. This is treated as a new roof, not an overlay, and triggers structural review.
Ice-water-shield, frost depth, and why Highland inspectors are strict about eave flashing
Highland's elevation (4,800–5,200 feet), frost depth (30–48 inches), and proximity to the Wasatch canyons create ideal conditions for ice dams. When warm air from the attic or solar gain melts snow near the roof peak, water runs down and refreezes at the cold eave, backing up under the shingles and into the attic. IRC R905.1.1 requires a self-adhering, ice-water-protective membrane at least 24 inches from the eave (measured up the roof slope), but Highland inspectors typically require the entire eave to be shielded — 36–48 inches on the north slope is the practical standard.
Ice-water-shield (also called ice-and-water underlayment or self-adhering membrane) is a rubberized asphalt product that sticks to the sheathing and seals around fasteners, providing a second water barrier. It's not a replacement for proper flashing and drainage; it's a backstop. Products like Grace Ice and Water Shield, Owens Corning WeatherLock, or GAF Bituthene are code-approved. The membrane must be installed before underlayment and shingles, with all edges sealed. Fastening: do not nail through ice-water-shield unless absolutely necessary (e.g., to hold it in place while installing underlayment). The idea is to keep the seal intact.
Cost is typically $0.50–$1.00 per square foot of shield area. For a 2,000 sq ft roof with 36 inches of shield on a 40-foot-wide eave = roughly 240 sq ft of shield = $120–$240 in material. Inspectors will walk the eave after underlayment is installed and verify that ice-water-shield extends the required distance and is sealed properly. If it's short or poorly adhered, the inspector will call it out, and you'll have to correct it before final approval.
Highland City Hall, 5400 West Civic Center Drive, Highland, UT 84003
Phone: (801) 763-3000 | https://www.highlandcity.gov/building-permits (verify link; confirm online permit portal availability)
Monday–Friday, 8:00 AM–5:00 PM
Common questions
Do I need a permit if I'm just replacing shingles on the same pitch and slope?
If you're doing a tear-off and replacement (the old shingles come off before new ones go on), yes — you need a permit. IRC R907.4 prohibits a third layer, so any tear-off is a permitted project. If you're doing a true overlay (new shingles nailed over old ones, single-layer increase), no — but overlays are not allowed in Highland if a third layer would result. File a permit application early to verify layer count before starting work.
Can I file the permit myself, or does my contractor have to do it?
Either can file. If you're the owner-builder on your own home, you can pull the permit yourself and sign for inspections. If your contractor is licensed, they can pull it (most do as a courtesy). You'll need a contractor's license number or an owner-builder affidavit. Owner-builder is allowed for owner-occupied single-family homes in Highland; confirm you meet the definition.
How much does a roof permit cost in Highland?
Typical permit fee is $150–$400, depending on roof area and complexity. Like-for-like asphalt replacements are on the lower end (roughly $0.50–$1.00 per square foot of roof area). Material changes (shingles to metal or tile) are on the higher end due to structural review. Call the Building Department at (801) 763-3000 to request a fee estimate before filing.
The inspector said I need ice-water-shield on my whole eave. Why not just 24 inches?
IRC R905.1.1 requires ice-water-shield at least 24 inches from the eave, but Highland's frost depth, elevation, and history of ice dams make inspectors conservative. Full-eave coverage is the practical standard and prevents call-backs. It costs about $100–$200 more in material and labor, and it's the safest approach.
I found three layers of shingles during my tear-off. Do I have to stop work?
Yes. IRC R907.4 prohibits three or more layers. If your inspector discovers this, work stops and you'll receive a notice of violation. You must tear off all layers (down to the deck), reapply for permit, and restart. This costs $1,500–$3,000 extra and adds 5–7 days. Probe for layer count before filing to avoid this.
I want to upgrade to a metal roof. What do I need?
A material change requires a structural engineer's letter confirming your rafters can support metal (typically 20–30 lbs/100 sq ft). Your engineer will likely recommend collar ties or sister rafters if your home was built before 1995. Cost for the engineer's letter is $700–$1,200; structural work is $600–$1,500 if needed. The permit fee is higher due to structural review ($300–$450). Plan for 1–2 weeks review time.
Do I need a permit for gutter replacement or just flashing repair?
No. Gutter and flashing repairs or replacement are exempt from permitting. However, if you're replacing gutters as part of a roof re-roof project and they're under the same roof permit, they're covered. If it's a standalone gutter job, no permit needed.
How long does the permit review take in Highland?
Like-for-like replacements are typically approved in 3–5 business days (over-the-counter or fast-track). Material changes or structural questions add 1–2 weeks. Submit a complete application (roof plan, material specs, underlayment detail, fastening pattern) to avoid delays. Check the Highland permit portal or call (801) 763-3000 to check status.
What happens if the inspector finds rot or water damage in the deck during tear-off?
The inspector will issue a stop-work order and require you to replace or repair the damaged sheathing before proceeding. Repair costs $200–$600 per sheet of plywood or 1x8 sheathing, depending on extent. This is common in Highland homes due to past ice-dam leaks. Budget for deck inspection and possible repairs in your estimate.
Can I get a permit for work without a contractor, or do I need to be licensed?
Owner-builder is allowed for owner-occupied single-family homes in Highland. You do not need a contractor's license if you own the home and live in it. You'll sign an owner-builder affidavit at permit time and be responsible for all inspections and code compliance. If you hire a roofing contractor to do the work, they must be licensed (Utah Roofing Contractor License) and sign the application. Most homeowners hire a licensed contractor due to warranty and complexity — roofing is technical and mistakes are expensive.
More permit guides
National guides for the most-asked homeowner permit projects. Each goes deep on code thresholds, common rejections, fees, and timeline.
Roof Replacement
Layer count, deck inspection, ice dam protection, hurricane straps.
Deck
Attached vs freestanding, footings, frost depth, ledger, height/area thresholds.
Kitchen Remodel
Plumbing, electrical, gas line, ventilation, structural changes.
Solar Panels
Structural review, electrical interconnection, fire setbacks, AHJ approval.
Fence
Height/material limits, sight triangles, pool barriers, setbacks.
HVAC
Equipment changeouts, ductwork, combustion air, ventilation, IMC sections.
Bathroom Remodel
Plumbing rough-in, ventilation, electrical (GFCI/AFCI), waterproofing.
Electrical Work
Subpermits, NEC sections, panel upgrades, GFCI/AFCI, who can pull.
Basement Finishing
Egress, ceiling height, electrical, moisture barriers, occupancy rules.
Room Addition
Foundation, footings, framing, electrical/plumbing extensions, structural.
Accessory Dwelling Units (ADU)
When permits are required, code thresholds, JADU vs ADU, electrical/plumbing/parking rules.
New Windows
Egress, header sizing, structural cuts, fire-rating, energy code.
Heat Pump
Electrical capacity, refrigerant handling, condensate, IECC compliance.
Hurricane Retrofit
Roof straps, garage door bracing, opening protection, FL OIR product approval.
Pool
Barriers, alarms, electrical bonding, plumbing, separation distances.
Fireplace & Wood Stove
Hearth, clearances, chimney, gas line work, NFPA 211.
Sump Pump
Discharge location, electrical, backup options, plumbing tie-in.
Mini-Split
Refrigerant lines, condensate, electrical disconnect, line set sleeve.